Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Anyone have any idea what's going on with this doorknob? It's brand new, so it's not malfunctioning, but I've never seen a knob act this way. Is it a setting? Is it the kind of knob and I need to replace it? What is the purpose of a knob that does this?


It's definitely malfunctioning. It being new is irrelevant, the latch bolt is binding up inside the door. If you have some graphite lubricant, that might help, but I would pull it apart and look to see if you can tell what it's getting bound up on.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

There are shock absorbers for fall protection harnesses. IIRC they work by being stitched together with thread that breaks at a certain point and slows you down as you fall 5 more feet or something. I'm not sure what the best keyword would be, and I think they would be too heavy duty for your application.

Once you get something off the ground, attaching a safety cable from the object to a beam or w/e that is short enough to keep it from hitting the ground would work?

In the rock / ice climbing world we call them screamers.

Edit: Yeah googling climbing screamer turns up a few.

Double edit: Actually reading the OP helps. Screamers are not intended for slowing the descent of an untethered object. They're designed to lower the peak force applied to the anchor in the event of a fall. There are a variety of ascenders and descenders which are designed to allow one-directional rope movement that you may be able to rig something up with, but what is applicable and how to use it would depend entirely on your specific rigging scenario.

armorer fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Nov 3, 2020

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Centrist Committee posted:

That could work if it comes down to it. The idea is inspired by sailing, that I could apply sailboat rigging to DIY projects. There’s a concept of “blowing the main” in sailing, but that deals with lateral forces, not gravity. I’m really all about the soft descent so I can be extra lazy. Maybe I could do the math and rig up a counter weight to standing end of the line? Or hook it up to some kind of spring? I worry if I can’t find a similar project that I’m misunderstanding or overlooking something fundamental. I’ll look into fall protection shock absorbers.

E: didn’t see new replies

The issue with using a counter weight on the standing end is that if there is slack in your line then your load will fall some distance before the counter weight is relevant and the line goes taut. As the line goes taut, the peak forces in the system will be many times what the load represents by itself, and can trivially exceed the working load limit. Ascenders and descenders are types of friciton brakes used for ascending or descending a rope, respectively. There are many different types of devices that serve similar purposes in the rigging and climbing worlds, and which one you may be able to use, and how exactly you would add it into your system will depend entirely on the specifics of what exactly you're trying to do.

Depending on your budget, you may be able to accomplish what you want by adding a self retracting lifeline into the system as a second tether connected to the load, such that if you released the load by accident the lifeline would (somewhat safely) lower it, but the lifeline would not be used as the lifting rope in that setup. They tend to be pretty expensive though.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

eggyolk posted:

I've got a bolt that needs replacing, what's the best way to buy a single bolt? It'd be nice to avoid buying a whole bag of them off McMaster. Its 3/16" diameter and ~33 threads per inch for what it's worth. Probably a dumb question.

Take it to your local big box store and find one that's the same thread? You can order single bolts online but you'll end up paying a bunch for shipping

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Falcon2001 posted:

A year or so ago my roofers hosed up my gutters and I'm preparing to fix them, because the gutters themselves are pretty nice metal ones.

<-- closeup of one of the stripped screws
<-- What happens now because of the bent.

Basically they just leaned on 'em pretty hard while redoing the roof and now there's a big bow in the middle that pours out and the screws are stripped out pretty hard. I went through a few months ago and tried just tightening it and it didn't work well.

So the new plan is basically one of two things after removing the gutter and trying to bend it back into the original shape, either:

1. Try bigger screws if they'll fit in the mounting brackets for the gutter supports or
2. Go nuclear option: drill out the stripped holes, glue in some dowels, and come back later with the original or same size screws.

Is there a better option I'm ignoring here?

If your concern is that the screw won't hold where it is anymore because the wood has too large of a hole in it, by far the easiest way to fix that is toothpicks and wood glue. When you say they stripped the screws that would normally make the think the screw head is damaged, but it sounds like you're talking about the wood.

Basically pour some wood glue on a scrap of cardboard, roll a toothpick in it, jam it in the hole. Repeat until the hole is plugged, let dry, then cut flush with a box cutter or whatever. Easier than drilling it out and using a dowel, but just as effective.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

H110Hawk posted:

For 1 board on random occasions? Eh. Stay off the freeways, take it slow, leave plenty of following distance. Think of it as car jousting/javelin throw. If you stop too hard or turn too fast you're going to have a 16' 2x6 projectile.

It should take you about twice as long to get home as it did to get to the store. Or it should at least feel that way.

Yeah, a toyota camry is 16' long, for reference, so if you're driving something comparable the board won't really extend past your bumpers by much at all. Just take it easy and make sure it's secured as folks have already said.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply