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You’re two weeks out from Black Friday, so there are savings out there to be had. Goons are pretty split on top vs. front, so I think learning the objective pros and cons are your best bet, and if you’re used to top loading and go front loading, know exactly what the return policy is in case you immediately hate it.
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Nov 13, 2020 14:16
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A pressure washer is going to get the poo poo everywhere. I’ve never used one of those cleaners before but have cleaned up some concrete floors and it really is elbow grease with scrubbers and a sponge. It may not be hard to do if you find a good cleaner that can sit on everything and eat away at things and make it easier to lift off the floor. That Home Depot rental is fairly cheap though, there’s probably some hidden cost like the shampoo isn’t included or something. I rented a jackhammer from them awhile back and I had to pay an extra $10 to rent the bits.
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Nov 14, 2020 13:18
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In my experience the bag fills up very quickly and dealing with that is way more cumbersome than taking the leaves onto a tarp and dragging them.
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Nov 16, 2020 11:56
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I’ll show my hand on being an idiot, when you’re doing framing when do you go screws over nails? I have rules in my head based off of random googling but never took the time to understand that outside of contractors yelling at each other over forums.
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Nov 19, 2020 11:23
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His career trajectory just kind of blew up on itself.
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Dec 7, 2020 01:58
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And you're absolutely rolling the dice and might pay to have someone do an even shittier job.
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Dec 8, 2020 00:00
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Might need a punch to avoid hammering the trim itself or for any stubborn nails that don’t go down all the way.
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Dec 8, 2020 11:27
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Some blowers might have 2 drains as well if it's a generic engine that's used in multiple configurations.
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Dec 18, 2020 01:47
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Buy, use twice, return. I’m not going to pretend I’m above that.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:48
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Is it overkill to build a base cabinet by making a frame out of 2x3s and then nailing faceboards on top of it? It seems just using plywood/mdf sheets with some bracing is the standard method but I just can't imagine my skillset doing that and then one of my fatter friends jumping up to sit on the counter and the whole thing not collapsing.
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Mar 25, 2021 11:27
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Also like, you're getting GFCI because you need an outlet that can trip there right and not only to match the wall plate... right?
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Apr 20, 2021 19:21
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Stack Machine posted:An update on this: repairing the frame was a nice dream but as soon as I removed the first section of sill plate I noticed just how bad all the rest of that sill and some of the studs were (not only were they brittle, some of them had just a perplexing number of ants living inside of them that would pour out if I tapped it with a hammer). So I'm just re-framing the whole thing using the old shed as a template. Would love to subscribe to this, I’m in the same boat but probably worse damage. I keep on wishing the shed could just be jacked up and the plate replaced but the whole thing really needs to go. We had a guy look at it last year and offer to remove and rebuild for $3500 and now we feel really drat stupid for not signing that contract.
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May 30, 2021 13:16
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Is replacing the box out of the question?
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May 30, 2021 18:40
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The mounting plate is labeled B in the diagram.
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Jun 9, 2021 00:50
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actionjackson posted:Amazingly enough, the adventure isn't over. If I'm missing something really dumb then, well I'm already obviously a moron so that's okay You are correct that in the assembly diagram it has the mounting plate you received and uses the slats for access. You might be in a situation where they provide hardware for a box size that is larger than what you have, and you either need a new plate, adapter, or to change the box out. The diagram looks like a typical 4inch box and your ceiling box might be like 3.5 (I think someone in one of these DIY threads just had a similar issue?( Do not hang it with a single screw.
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Jun 10, 2021 02:50
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Or could you find a cross bar that both fits with the holes in the box and can line up with slots in that mounting plate.
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Jun 17, 2021 01:43
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Amazon has a shitload of options if you search for something like "light fixture mounting bracket", just need to do some rough figuring out if the holes will line up where you need them.
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Jun 17, 2021 02:31
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You can also buy a little endoscope that connects to your phone, just drill a small dime-sized hole, and look into the wall that way
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Aug 13, 2021 20:54
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Also very likely a sheered flywheel key.
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Sep 22, 2021 22:02
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May not work and might only use it once? Embrace your inner Sith: https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html
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Oct 26, 2021 12:54
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I have a radon remediation system that is gurgling like a mother fucker because the ground is super saturated and the water is caught in the piping. This is a regular occurrence, and I’m sure the real long term solution is introducing a sump pump somewhere, but in the mean time is there any easy way to introduce some type of tap or access to manually suck out the water that would still be air tight when closed?
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Oct 30, 2021 13:41
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Yeah I guess what I was wondering is if there’s any way to like retrofit or drill in a clean out or if it’s just going to be cutting some pipe out and adding a whole new piece with a clean out. EDIT: Seems like ultimately rigging up a saddle tee is what I want. The Dave fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 15:42
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So my house is old, like 1790s old, and that means for that section of the house we have awesome soft pine wide plank hardwood floors. Now what that also means is that between those planks in my living room and my unfinished fieldstone basement is absolutely nothing, and the floors do have some gaps, nail holes, and wide openings around the waterlines (because ofcourse exterior water lines). I don't really know for sure if there's any value in trying to insulate / vapor barrier the basement from the living room, however, I would like there to be some barrier to cut out light leaking through when I'm in the basement, to stop liquids from splattering on the basement if someone drops a glass in a certain spot, and drowning out noise in any way would be an improvement. Maybe this helps too with some draftiness but probably not. I've seen those like stick-on aluminum (i guess?) bubble sheets that seem to be specifically for basement ceiling insulation work, but if I went that route I'm worried you might see the shine of them through the gaps in a couple of spots. So is there anything that would be a nice black or neutral color, with no graphics or text on it, that would work as an underlayment on the backside of the planks? All the typical materials seem to have some sort of branding outside of the black sheets for vapor barriers but I'm not sure if that's the type of material I should be using (and maybe it doesn't matter if it's not a true air-tight seal. I guess I don't want to trap water if something does spill but not sure how I avoid that while creating the barrier. I can't believe how much I ended up writing about this.
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Nov 3, 2021 15:33
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DaveSauce posted:Cool, thanks. The only caulking I've really done is around exterior outlets, and I did a pretty poo poo job of making it look good (didn't really care, just wanted it to seal). Exterior weatherproofing caulk is way less forgiving than your typical interior acrylic caulk which will basically form to whichever last wet finger swipe hit it last. If silicone just spray it with windex first.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:40
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You can make your round holes square.
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Dec 14, 2021 21:57
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TerminalSaint posted:After spending my life in houses with forced air heating my new house has hot water radiators, so I'm not entirely familiar with all aspects of their operation. The basement has a baseboard heater that I'd like to have put out a bit more heat. The heater doesn't have any valves or controls on it, but it's on it's own loop with quarter-turn valves on both ends near the boiler: Are you sure your radiators don’t have bleeder valves at the ends of the runs to allow you to get any air out of the lines? That’s your typical seasonal maintenance move to make sure your baseboards are getting as hot as they should.
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Dec 21, 2021 11:15
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Do the right thing. Get the ramen.
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Jan 5, 2022 19:35
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Someone talk me off a ledge here, or at least stop me from going on British youtube videos for another hour of my life. The front rooms of my house are fieldstone with (what I assume is lovely) stucco on the outside and plaster on the inside. Suffice to say the walls themselves are pretty cold and I think are the contributor for having a cold breeze go against the back of your neck head when you're trying to relax in the living room during a winter night. From my manic googling it seems like the UK has a lot of different options for adding some interior insulation without completely taking down the wall covering. Specifically seeing stuff like thermal wallpaper (can't be legit... right?) and insulated plasterboard. I guess what I'm wondering is if the US has stuff that is comparable, or if the route is something like rigid foam board with sheetrock over it. I know there's things to consider with condensation and air gaps but if I could raise the temperature in any meaningful way without taking the plaster down and only adding 1-2 inches to the width of the wall that could really be worth it for me.
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Jan 31, 2022 15:38
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Motronic posted:They tend to slow down temperature swings over time, which is why you can get away with good circulation through windows in the summer, and, if you're living like it's 1789, keep the fireplaces going to keep the heat in the chimneys and walls. Yeah this is on the money, summer time is fairly pleasant with no additional cooling (for the most part). CRUSTY MINGE posted:In the US, you can have insulation blown into your walls. Loose fluffy stuff, but you need to cut holes in the drywall to stuff the nozzle in, between each stud. So you'd still have to patch a bunch of holes, but you wouldn't need to rip down the walls. Oh for these walls there's literally no space. It's plaster, lathe, stone, stucco with no gapping whatsoever. stealie72 posted:Have also seen it done from the outside on cedar shingled houses. Not sure if that's better or worse, but wood outside means plaster inside which is not as easy to fix as drywall. Of course, holes inside don't mean an incursion point for water. The UK and Canada seem to also have a cork stucco-like spray on exterior solution, which after typing it out feels like I've already lost money.
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Jan 31, 2022 16:00
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But if you go that route practice framing, mixing and finishing a block of concrete ahead of time. It doesn't require a tremendous amount of expert knowledge but there's some simple ways to really gently caress it up that become obvious after one or two pours.
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Feb 16, 2022 20:08
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I just installed like 12 sets of cordless blinds from Lowe's last weekend so I get the issue -- Could you cut two little custom shims that will go between the bracket and that trim to provide a flat surface? I'd be pretty tempted to cut that top trim out and attach the blinds to the framing above it, knowing the top of the blinds will cover that up anyway.
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Feb 20, 2022 17:37
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I literally just swapped out ceiling fans this week. The big question is why do you want to change it, and can you get away with just being a plug and play motor that uses the existing housing and ducting? I simply wanted something more quiet, the one in there was 4 sones so no one ever wanted to use it, defeating the purpose. I couldn't get a new, quieter motor, because it was the shittiest $30 fan that had 'special' wiring. I did get something that was the exact same box size, ripped out the old one, and was able to use all the same duct work and mounting points as the original one. At 1 sone the thing is a whisper compared to what was there. The idiot that installed the original fan used really rigid ducting with some really tight bends and shockingly it was loose where it meets pvc. I continued the tradition of being an idiot and used the same ducting but trimmed it and bent it better, then secured the gently caress out of it with zip ties and aluminum tape. I should have bought a more flexible duct in retrospect but, well, you know.
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Mar 11, 2022 22:27
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When you take the plastic cover off you should see a model number and can do a search for a replacement motor or even purchase the same model and just swap the motors. That would be a 5 minute job.
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Mar 12, 2022 01:36
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My son is jumping on me at the moment and I only have skim access but it’s always a good thing to remember that the color of the wires in your house are merely a suggestion of what should be used, not what could be used.
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Mar 12, 2022 20:14
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Fill a cup with powder and put it on a scale?
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May 4, 2022 15:35
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I recently got some grout caulk in the same color as my 15 year old grout and was pretty shocked at how well it color matched. I was even able to lightly rub some over a stain to mask it.
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May 4, 2022 17:06
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JB weld and great stuff foam, obviously.
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Jun 12, 2022 14:53
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Or use toggle bolts and don't rely on the drywall to support the longevity of the hole.
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Jun 15, 2022 15:16
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You can also buy a fan that doesn't come with a remote kit at all. But yeah, to echo, every fan I've installed integrated the remote as an optional module. If there's a fan model you really like you can probably look up the install manual and it will show you how the remote is integrated.
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Jun 22, 2022 15:43
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 04:34 |
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Yeah I used to think the email receipts were dumb because I was being an angry old man and now I email receipt everything.
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Jul 3, 2022 17:18
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