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rjmccall posted:Okay, so the thread’s considered opinion is that I should not be a cheap idiot and try to do this with a rotary drill even though I only have four small-ish holes to make, and that, while I could maybe make do with a non-SDS hammer drill if I already had one, since I don’t there isn’t really any point in not renting an SDS hammer drill, which is essentially the best tool for the job. Right? I've drilled concrete with a rotary drill lots of times. It's slow, but it can be done. If you don't anticipate drilling concrete again in the future, save your money and at least try it with a rotary drill.
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Nov 24, 2023 18:11
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SuicidalSmurf posted:I think I'm looking for something that doesn't exist, but I'm also not sure the terminology to look for. I have a closet at the end of the hallway that is exactly 36" wide, and the opening is not framed out at all. I'm trying to find a surface mount bifold door so I can use the full depth of the space to put in some wire shelves. I've found barn door hardware for bifold doors that do what I want, but the rail length has to exceed the door width, generally by at least an inch, which means for this to work, I'd have to use narrower doors and frame out the opening. I'm looking for a quick solution and really would rather avoid drywall work. I'm trying to avoid traditional top-mounted bifold doors, since it will eat up an inch or two of already minimal space, and will also complicate a floor transition in the previously unfinished closet. Does hardware like this exist? I'm basically looking for face-mounted bifold door hardware. There's a bedroom door to the right, so I need the doors to "collect" on the left side of the opening, for what it matters. Would this work: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EVERMARK-Expressions-36-in-x-80-in-Unfinished-6-Panel-Solid-Core-Red-Oak-Interior-Bi-Fold-Door-454-094/207143081? It just fills the space and opens to the side. The hardware mounts in the ceiling and floor.
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Jan 8, 2024 18:52
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SuicidalSmurf posted:I'm sure that's what would be typical here, but I'm trying to avoid mounting 'inside' the closet, if that makes sense. Want to surface mount to maximize space, and have the door come out beyond the floor transition I'll have to add. Nail a 2x4 to the top of the opening and put the hardware under that. An alternative would be a curtain on a rod.
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Jan 8, 2024 19:14
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Trickortreat posted:I have a tankless heater located inside my garage that froze the last time the temperatures dipped. No. You open a cabinet indoors because the cabinet traps cold air. The garage is full of cold air, so opening the cabinet makes it worse. You could drain the water out of it and shut it off, or keep a faucet trickling warm water so it kicks on occasionally.
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Jan 12, 2024 20:57
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Brute Squad posted:Stove hood light burnt out and takes regular (A19) incandescents. Any reason I should avoid swapping them out for LEDs? I'm worried they won't work as well with the heat At hood height, there's not much extra heat. We use an LED in ours and it's fine. Use whatever you want.
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Jan 23, 2024 15:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Mold is everywhere, it's inescapable, and is only really an issue if you have existing respiratory issues or allergies that are aggravated by increased levels of spores. What matters is that you get that lumber dried and that it doesn't get wet again. Can you tell if the wood is rotten? Because it'll need to be replaced/sistered if so. If the wood is OK, spray it with a coat of Killz primer to immobilize and stabilize it.
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Jan 27, 2024 22:32
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brugroffil posted:When you have a nail, everything looks like a hammer Everything is a hammer, actually.
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Feb 5, 2024 14:03
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Fruits of the sea posted:That sure doesn't sound healthy. I said the msds wasn't terrifying, but that was just in terms of protective gear and exposure protocol. Takes 2mg to kill a rat, so I don't think it's something we should be eating It's main toxicity is due to its alkalinity. Otherwise it's just phosphate, which is quite harmless. For example, phosphoric acid is an ingredient in Coca Cola and many other beverages.
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Feb 8, 2024 02:43
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yippee cahier posted:Phosphates can cause algae blooms which will kill off other life in bodies of water. Yes, but that's because the phosphate itself is the opposite of toxic. It can cause environmental damage because it's fertilizer.
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Feb 8, 2024 13:45
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PainterofCrap posted:Do not try to remove it. Vise-Grips for life (remaining, of the heater). They're not that hard to replace. I've done it before. (Original was a cheap plastic thing that leaked constantly. I replaced it with a metal one that worked fine for the life of the tank.)
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Mar 9, 2024 15:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:When I had this house inspected, one of the things the inspector recommended was putting the carbon monoxide alarm in the basement stairway. His logic was that carbon monoxide is denser than air, so it'll accumulate in the basement first, so the alarm should be lower down so that I get an alert before it accumulates in the living space. I don't see anything obviously wrong with this, but I'd like a fact check from other, more knowledgeable folks. Would it make sense to have two alarms, one for the basement and one for the upstairs? It's not like they're expensive. The average atomic mass of air is about 29 g/mol. Carbon monoxide is 28 g/mol. It is slightly lighter than air. Put the alarms near the most likely sources of CO - gas water heater, furnace, and fireplace.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks, sounds like I need to buy a second detector! A set volume of any gas at a given temperature and pressure contains the same number of particles (Avogadro's Law). The density is directly proportional to the molar mass.
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Mar 13, 2024 00:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:PV=nRT, right. pressure * volume = (number of molecules) * temperature * constant. Since pressure, temperature, and quantity are fixed, volume is the same. Man, it's been awhile since I did this stuff. No, the relative densities will not change with altitude. There may be reasons for putting a CO detector lower, but it's not due to relative density. Smoke will be hot and rise to the ceiling, so it makes sense to put those high. Perhaps the CO detector is more useful closer to the level of your head where you're inhaling. I don't know.
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Mar 13, 2024 01:11
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Thirded. Dig the concrete out only if you really have to. Otherwise just cut it flush with the ground and pretend the rest isn't there.
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Mar 21, 2024 21:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I went up there with a ladder a couple of weeks ago, and cleaned out some leaves. I didn't, like, scrub it clean or anything, but it was basically empty. I'd be surprised if somehow a bunch of gunk got up there in the intervening time span. The downspout may be plugged, as well. Take a hose up there and try running some water to see where it goes.
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Mar 23, 2024 14:36
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SpartanIvy posted:I have a quick questions about fluorescent bar lights: Would a bad starter cause bulbs to burn out almost instantly on one end? I just put a new bar light in my vintage stove after the prior bulb burned out quite a while ago. I figured it was an ancient bulb so reasonable that if died. The new bulb flashed and then went out right after I switched it on. After testing the new bulb with a multimeter, one end of the new bulb gives 0 resistance, so it's definitely dead. The starter the stove uses is an FS-25 starter, and I've already ordered a new one, but want to make sure that's a reasonable cause to the bulb blowing out instantly. Yes, 0 resistance means it is sending full power to the filament in the bulb, which will burn it out in a hurry. Its job is to boil off electrons (Edison effect), not produce light directly.
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Mar 23, 2024 17:57
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A MIRACLE posted:the water level in my toilet refills normally after a flush, but then slowly drains to a very low level over an hour or so. what should I look at first? thanks I'd start with the flapper valve. They're rubber and rot and leak after a few years. They're cheap and easy to replace.
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Mar 25, 2024 22:56
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Buy or make a decorative frame that's wide enough to cover the hole. Home Depot sells brass sheet you could cut to size.
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Mar 30, 2024 22:14
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm hesitant to make something myself. I have no metal working skills/knowledge/tools. Without any sort of metal-bending tool, I'm not sure how good I can get the bends, and then I'd have to braze the corners? The idea is to get a big sheet of brass and cut it down to the size you need, then cut out the middle. HD sells brass-colored aluminum that can be cut with an Xacto knife. Your initial post suggested that getting a different fixture wasn't an option, so I'm glad you're leaning that way now. It is by far the simplest solution.
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Apr 1, 2024 00:18
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Slugworth posted:OK, I officially give up on math. I need help. I'm building a chicken coop/run, and I absolutely cannot figure out the angles for the roof. If you go with 66° at the top, you need 114° out of the bottom (angles must add to 180). That's 57° each Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Apr 8, 2024 |
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Apr 8, 2024 02:17
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You're lucky. They normally charge extra for pre-aged wood.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:41
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NotNut posted:Are there wood shims that taper from left to right, along the short axis, instead of tapering from one tip to the other? You can make them taper any direction you want.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:09
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There are leather repair kits and systems out there, I don't know if they can fix that, though. Stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-2130-Leather-Repair/dp/B01IU3G3NG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/3M-08579-3PK...M3QFJ3LGZV&th=1
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Apr 16, 2024 14:16
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Inzombiac posted:Anyone have suggestions for deck railings? Rent a truck from the lumber store to haul big pieces home. 2x2s for the verticals, beveled 45° at each end. 2x6 for the rail. Easy peasy.
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Apr 16, 2024 22:37
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A MIRACLE posted:More animal chat, I have a neighbors cat who likes to sneak into my yard and lay in the sun. I would be semi ok with this but I noticed him going after the birds on their birdbath and now we are doing battle. I shoo him away but he just waits for me to go inside and comes right back lol No. Cats are quite agile and sneaky. They will find a way through no matter what you do. Move the birdbath to somewhere safer, or accept that it's a cat feeder.
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Apr 18, 2024 16:22
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Inzombiac posted:Okay, I need to cut a 16ft piece of Trek down the middle, hotdog style. Jigsaw would be your best bet. Rip fences are available. An alternative is to clamp the jigsaw upside down in a vice. Set up a fence and feed the piece through like it's a table saw.
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Apr 18, 2024 17:15
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I would cut a notch in the support board wide enough to accommodate the bracket so it's flush with the wall at the top.
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Apr 23, 2024 20:43
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I assume there are studs behind the stucco. You can screw into those pretty securely. I wouldn't anchor anything to the stucco layer itself.
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Apr 27, 2024 03:56
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doingitwrong posted:What are the basic safety gear one should have if you are going from “I’ve been a renter my whole life and own essentially zero tools,” to “oh god we’re buying a house”? Ear protection if you're going to start accumulating power tools.
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May 1, 2024 12:32
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Lester Shy posted:Is ~half an acre too much for a push mower? My lot is .7 acres and I'm guessing about 75% of that is lawn. I'm not an outdoor type person, but I think I'm paying too much to have it done. I don't want to invest $2k+ in a riding mower, but one of the Ryobi self-propelled electric mowers would pay for itself after a few months. I'm also leaning towards the electric model so I could potentially mow at like 5 in the morning before it gets hot and not piss off the neighbors. Half an acre will probably take a couple hours to mow. If you're in good shape, it won't be too bad. I suspect it will get old pretty fast, though. Start with the electric push mower, anyway. If you decide you need a bigger mower later, it will be useful for trimming and hard-to-reach spots. For half an acre, I'd buy a riding mower, but I'm old and lazy.
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May 4, 2024 17:42
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