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Decoy Badger
May 16, 2009
Great work, the grey brick look makes it seem like a retro-future 80s stab at the GP2X. The internal support frame integration was especially impressive, halfway to a watch. Throw on some mirror shades and play some Tetris.

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Decoy Badger
May 16, 2009
Seems like some careful scraping and bodge wires could save this board.

Decoy Badger
May 16, 2009
The easier way is to wrap wire around whatever bits stick out from the USB socket leads and solder it all together. That's very finicky though so another option is to scrape effectively new pads out from the ground plane, then connect bodge wires to/from there. This can also get tricky because getting the surface coating off and soldering to the ground plane is a pain, but it's better than melting the USB socket on the fifth attempt at sticking a wire on a tiny lead.



I don't think you can get away with keeping the sockets on unfortunately. But you could do at least one (J3 seems the easiest) and see if the rest of the board works with the one USB socket before making a new version.

Decoy Badger
May 16, 2009
Gate latches might be an easier way to implement the latching function, with the bonus of making it harder to accidentally set off the whole system if you bump the cart against a wall.

Decoy Badger
May 16, 2009
Would you consider cutting off half of the buckle lever flap and attaching a pull cable to it instead? Could get enough clearance that way.

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