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I'm a big fan of Maker's Cult. Most of their stuff is fun alternative takes on 40k stuff, like cyborg Tyranids, feudal imperial guard, etc. Although clearly designed to be 40k compatible, all of it is original designs that don't violate copyright. https://www.cgtrader.com/themakerscult Printable scenery has a absolute ton of extremely high quality scenery. https://www.printablescenery.com/ Artisan Guild has a huge range of high quality miniatures https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Artisan_Guild Archvillain games does fabuluous miniatures with accompanying dnd supplements https://www.myminifactory.com/users/ArchvillainGames
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Mar 26, 2021 18:33
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Re: Resin durability. Resin is very fragile and tends to break easily. It is fine for miniatures, but I'd never use it for terrain.
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Mar 26, 2021 18:34
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Verisimilidude posted:Does anyone have good recs for complete/mostly complete printable armies for games like 40k and fantasy/aos? I want to start a new printing project after this is done and it would be great to have a fully printed army Lost Kingdom has like 90% of the Seraphon range and almost all of them are better sculpts than GW. Maker's Cult has sets for two different awesome Guard regiments and a huge number of vehicles for them, again, great sculpts. Here are some of my Krieg duders from MC:  Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 19:25
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jesus WEP posted:yeah i scrubbed them with ipa, then they spent some time in an ultrasonic cleaner, then a final scrub with some warm soapy water. i probably did a shoddy job with the ipa and then the other steps didn’t do much where i missed I just put everything into a old marmelade jar filled with IPA and swish it around until my arm gets tired and then rinse it off with hot water. Works wonders. I replace the IPA every now and again when it gets super grungy.
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Apr 20, 2021 19:50
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Lumbermouth posted:
Check out Spaghetti Detective if you want this to never happen again.
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Apr 22, 2021 16:24
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w00tmonger posted:
Games workshop is not threatened by 3d printing at all, at least not yet, or possibly ever. There are several reasons for this. Note that I say this as someone who has three 3d printers in my garage and have printed out and painted a 2000 point Imperial Guard army in the past couple of months. The big one is accessibility and hassle. Not everyone has the space to dedicate to having a Toxic Goo Machine to print out toy soldiers. Not everyone is willing to gently caress with strange chemicals with largely unknown but probably not great long term health effects. And 3d printing is a huge hassle. You need to print the model, take it out when it's done, clean it with IPA, and clean up supports. There is a good 20-30 minutes of labour involved in each 3d print. And that is if nothing fails - Even when you have your printer dialed in, a not insignificant number of prints will fail or partially fail, requiring you to clean your vat, and retry the print. As a grown-rear end adult with a job and kids, 3d printing is very expensive for me - Not in money, but instead in my most precious resource - Time. The time I spend loving with 3d printing is time I could just spend painting models and playing games if I bought my models from a store. If I didn't genuinely enjoy it, and wasn't genuinely enthusiastic about 3d printing as a ends in itself and not merely as a means to the end of getting models, I wouldn't bother. And the hassle scales up big time with the size of the model. Printing out my tanks for my guard probably took a total of 2-3 hours of work for each tank, and the cost in resin is almost 50% of what it would have cost me to simply buy the drat thing from my FLGS. Since mass scales exponentially with size, if you wanted to print something the size of say, a 40k Knight, you'd probably end up paying close to the retail price of a knight in resin anyway. The second one is strength of IP. GW has been very consciously making their lines less generic over the past few years - All their new releases lean ever more heavily into specific, copyrightable, and a little weird aesthetics. Because third party creators are careful to make their models distinct from GW's, even if they are created specifically as GW proxies. You can print Space Soldiers who look a lot like space marines, but they will look out of place next to your Primaris space marines, so unless you are willing to commit to a fully 3d printed army, it won't work. And finally, no matter what people try to claim, resin printed models are not comparable in quality to latter day GW models. There are lots of gorgeous models out there, but the nature of 3d printing puts a limit on the amount of fine detail and spindly bits they can put on them. High quality resin prints are comparable in quality to mid-2000s GW. Which is certainly great, but simply not as good. To support this - In the time since resin 3d printing has become accessible to the public - Since, say, 2017 - GW has experienced a huge growth in their revenue which isn't slowing down. 3d printing is a great addition to the miniature hobby, and I'm sure it will keep growing it's market share, and I can definitely see more and more indie or smaller miniature companies moving more towards selling STLs and print-on-demand, but unless there is a radical change in the technology that makes it more accessible to your average person, GW has nothing to worry about. Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 17:02 on May 29, 2021 |
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May 29, 2021 17:00
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InternetJunky posted:In terms of how it'll effect GW specifically, it's obviously costing them money right now. The #1 search term in my store is "nurgle". I don't think so. This is the old chestnut of counting piracy* as lost sales. GW's revenues have never been higher, and have in fact risen dramatically since 3d printing became viable for consumers. Now, maybe in a world without resin 3d printers GW would be making a truly stupendous amount of money, but I doubt it. On the whole it might even be making them money by making the hobby more accessible to more people, although this is impossible to verify. I do know that in my case this is definitely true - I've printed about 2k points of Maker's Cult Imperial Guard - But I've also spent like 300$ with GW on that army by buying codexes, supplements, and a couple of Imperial Knight allies. You could look at my resin mans, look up how much buying official GW equivalents would have cost me, and come to the conclusion that 3d printing has caused GW to lose like a thousand dollars in sales, but the reality is that I would never have started this army if I couldn't 3d print these specific very cool models, and would thus have never spent money on Knight allies or books. What store do you run, by the by? *Not strictly comparable because third party models for GW games aren't copyright violations, but still.
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May 31, 2021 19:09
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One company I'm sure is in trouble or going to be from 3d printing is Battlefront, which makes Flames of War. None of their products are protected by copyright - Anyone can sell a WW2 tank model. There is an absolute plethora of STLs for their models, and not just "close enough" proxies as with GW, but straight up literally the same thing. They are so small that you can print out a sizable chunk of a tournament-sized army on a single build plate.
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May 31, 2021 20:16
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InternetJunky posted:What kind of stuff are you looking for? I subscribe to ~20 patreons and back kickstarters at a level that probably means I have a problem so I can probably point you in the right direction. Can you list your patreons? Finding this stuff is extremely hard.
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Jun 4, 2021 19:35
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a patreon patreon 
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Jun 4, 2021 19:40
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Eej posted:I guess my next question is do I really need an ultrasonic cleaner (which I will not be putting IPA directly in) and/or a branded curing station? I used empty yoghurt jars which I put prints in and gave a good shake for a while for years. For curing I used a plastic bin with a hole crudely cut in the lid, and a cheap UV lamp off amazon. If you don't live in a sunless wasteland like I do you don't even need that, just put it outside a bit. A washing station is nice, but not needed by any stretch.
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Jun 9, 2021 19:26
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I filter my IPA a couple of times before discarding it, it works fine, but after a while it gets to the point where it is permanently cloudy and doesnt wash very well. But you can (and should) get more use out of it by filtering it. If nothing else, IPA isnt cheap and disposing of resin contaminated IPA is a hassle. And yes, do not pour anything contaminated with resin into the sink.
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Jun 10, 2021 20:06
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Worth noting that water washable does not mean less toxic, in spite of some of their marketing material featuring them washing prints under the tap like fresh produce. Quite the opposite. The water washable resins apparently work because the molecules are smaller than normal, which means that abrasive force from flowing water is enough to wash them. But because they are smaller, they are more readily absorbed by the skin and lungs. And pouring it down the tap is every bit as verboten as regular resin.
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Jun 10, 2021 21:30
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 I've been painting up a fully 3d printed Imperial Guard army for the past couple of months. I was going to take it to a tournament today, but I had to bail because I got sick. Ah well. This started as a quick little project where I was going to make a Kill Team with like ten dudes.
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Jun 13, 2021 19:19
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Geisladisk posted:
x-posting this boy because he's 3d printed
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Jun 15, 2021 22:14
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While we are on the subject of dumb mini patreons - People who only release their models in monthly Patreon packs and then either don't put them up for sale somewhere else, or only put them for sale for a limit period - Why? Do you hate money? Why would you not simply have an ever expanding library of models that passively generate a little income for you? It is so frustrating to be searching for something specific, only to find it was part of CoolMinis4Games Patreon pack of May 2020 and is available nowhere else.
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Jun 19, 2021 12:22
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Are there any good 28mm (i.e Bolt Action) scale WW2 Soviet Infantry STLs? There is Road to Hell, but these are clearly sculpted for 15mm and would look extremely goofy scaled up to 28mm.
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Jun 21, 2021 00:29
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Many disposable gloves and paper towel rolls. So many.
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Jun 25, 2021 00:01
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 Figured I'd post these guys here, too, since they were smelly goo in a bottle a week ago. 20 Grave Guard for my Gravelords army.
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Jul 25, 2021 19:19
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They're by Monstrous Encounters: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-barrow-wights-unit-129779
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Jul 25, 2021 20:09
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I've ended up with a spare Mannfred von Carstein - Just the guy, not his mount. For reference, this is what he looks like:  Can anyone recommend a suitable 3d printed mount for him? Doesn't have to match the aesthetics of his GW mount - In fact, that thing is goofy as gently caress, so probably better if it doesn't - But something suitable for a vampire lord to ride, and preferably easy to convert to take a rider if it doesn't already.
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Jul 26, 2021 14:38
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Although I don't doubt resin printed, gorgeous terrain pieces will continue to become more of a thing, especially as volumes continue to go up, I don't see it overtaking FDM simply because of cost. 30$ is still a lot for a terrain piece when you are trying to fill a table, especially considering you could print it in FDM at a fraction of the cost. Especially considering that FDM quality is absolutely plenty good for terrain. For stuff like making gorgeous display boards, absolutely, but for gaming terrain resin seems overkill.
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Aug 11, 2021 19:34
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 Pour one out for my Photon S. 6000 or so points of warhammer models, a flames of war army, and uncounted singletons later, the screen finally kicked the bucket. A new screen is like 60 euros, I might just get a fancier new printer.
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Oct 18, 2021 22:52
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Any suggestions for 3d printed Demonette of Slaneesh proxies that aren't trash and also won't make me feel like a creep if I play with them at my FLGS? Everything I can find is either awful or R-rated, usually both.
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Nov 7, 2021 20:34
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3D builder is great for most simple modifications you are going to want to do. Intuitive and simple to use. There is no need to smash into the learning cliff of most 3d editors for simple stuff like that .
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Nov 30, 2021 15:56
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PRADA SLUT posted:Is there a way to take a pile of STL's and figure out what their total volume is? I'm looking at printing this terrain but just one of those stone faces is like $15 in resin (though there's probably a way to hollow it out?) If you slice a thing in Chitubox it will tell you the volume. It will also tell you exactly how much it will cost in resin if you enter the price of your resin.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:56
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Class Warcraft posted:Just saw these pre-supported models Finally some decent Dead Space minis. e: this honestly isn't totally dumb, I could see myself doing something like this if I was mass producing stuff and was absolutely 100% confident in having my printer, settings, and supports dialed in. But there are just so, so many possible points of failure here. It really isn't worth cramming a little more on the build plate for most people.
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Dec 4, 2021 14:13
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Anyone know of any 15mm WW2 Soviet tank rider stls?
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Jan 19, 2022 19:03
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IPA in a ultrasonic cleaner is not a good idea. It vaporizes some of the IPA in the container which is a huge explosion hazard. At least one person in a 3d printing discord I'm in had a really bad fire because of it.
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Jan 31, 2022 13:47
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mllaneza posted:Say, quick wash and cure question. I love the idea of putting the whole build plate in to wash and then cure. But how much should I be worried about the parts of the models in contact with the build plate ? Won't the underside of the bases need a quick cure pass after they're separated ? My Anycubic wash station has a attachment point that you can attach the height of so you can place just the bottom of the plate into the IPA. I wouldn't dunk the entire thing in. I put the entire plate in the wash, then remove the models from the plate, and just give the bottom a little swish. I then remove the supports with warm water, and finally cure. I wouldn't cure with the models still on the plate, simply because removing the supports before curing is way, way better than doing it post-cure. The underside of the supports - the part that contacts the build plate - shouldn't have any uncured resin on them anyway.
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Feb 11, 2022 13:45
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EdsTeioh posted:You may be on to something here, but here's something else I just considered (and I'm working right now and can't really test this); hear me out: My workstation in my garage is on an old dining room table with drop leaves on the side. If you've ever messed with these, you know that those drop leaves are NEVER perfectly level and I just realized that my printer is actually sitting ON one of the drop leaves so IT'S not level itself; you think that could screw with the leveling? For reference, here's the exact situation: the center of the table is (relatively) evenly flat, but both sides sort of slant downward away from the center. My printer is sitting on right side leaf, so is leaning slightly right, AND the right side is where the failures are occurring. I'm thinking that perhaps the slant of the table is screwing up the plate leveling maybe? I printed on a old piece of poo poo chest of drawers that tilted like 10 degrees to the side for years and it was fine.
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Mar 12, 2022 13:51
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:isn't there an issue of the water washable resin being somehow way more toxic than the regular stuff? The way I understand it water washable works by having smaller molecules that are washed away just by the friction og the water. This also means that it is absorbed through the skin way more easily. At least, this is what I remember a chemist saying on Twitter
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Mar 12, 2022 21:45
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 I have a very old pewter wraithlord. The old wraithlord model only has a mounting point for one heavy weapon, because back in the day WLs could only use one. But the rules let them have two now. So I found a bright lance .stl file and made a double barreled bright lance version.
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Mar 12, 2022 22:34
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Springfield Fatts posted:So how bad is ambient light for the 3d printing process? I'm trying to position my resin printer and the garage has a large window. No matter where I put it, it's getting to get at least a little light coming into it when running unless I either only run it at night or built some kind of curtain thing around it. It doesn't matter at all. For one, all printers will have UV blocking glass on the printing chamber. Second, windows will block most of the UV light coming through them. Lightbulbs will emit very little or no UV light at all. I've kept my printers for years in a garage with pretty large, unobstructed windows on on side with plenty of natural light coming in, and I've never had any issues relating to that. And I even live really far north so for a few months every year there is sunlight coming in almost 24/7.
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May 31, 2022 14:12
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Doctor Zero posted:Depends on the type of light. I disagree with geisha that a window blocks enough UV to make it harmless. The sun is the most powerful UV light in this solar system, and even cutting 75% of the spectrum that resin cures at (400-405nm) it still lets in A LOT of UV. The UV filtering covers also block 95%, but again, the sun is strong enough that any prolonged sunlight will cure the resin the the vat. Sure, but you are not leaving resin in the printer behind just your house's windows. Every resin printer's resin vat is enclosed by UV blocking shell. If you don't leave your resin standing around in a vat with the printer open, it's fine. Whatever UV the resin will be exposed to for the couple of minutes it takes you to futz with the printer between prints is absolutely incidental, unless you are for some weird reason doing it outside in direct sunlight. e: At one point I left the resin lying in the vat for about three months between prints inside my garage with sunlight coming in through the windows. This was during summer so like 20 hours of sunlight per day. I gave the resin a little stir and fired off a print and it worked with no issues. You really don't need to worry about this. Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 31, 2022 |
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May 31, 2022 16:43
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Eediot Jedi posted:Anyone got a recommendation for tutorials for digital kitbashing? Program can be blender, meshmixer or 3d builder, I'm equally incompetent with all three. I've gotten a lot of mileage out of 3d builder that comes with windows. It's simple to use, and has all the features you need for just smooshing bits together. Most 3d modelling programs don't have a learning curve as much as a vertical learning cliff, but you probably don't need all that for some kitbashing.
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Jun 2, 2022 12:05
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Doctor Zero posted:It also depends on what the failure was. If it was the model stuck to the FEP, using the screen cleaning is good. If you notice parts of your models or supports missing - like they broke off or came apart, then absolutely drain and filter. After every print I just stick my finger into the vat and gently drag it across the FEP. If there is anything stuck to the bottom, you will immediately feel it, in which case, clean your tank. More than once I've thought that everything was fine, but then found a chunk in the bottom that would have smashed the poo poo out of my screen if I hadn't checked. Obviously wear a glove for this.
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Jun 15, 2022 12:31
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Aniodia posted:Question for the class: has anyone dealt with NV Liquidation LLC? They came up in a Facebook marketplace search for Elegoo Mars printers, and it honestly seems a little too good to be ordering a Mars 2 pro (albeit used) for $105 + $18 shipping. At the same time, if they're legit, that's a fuckin steal for a used 3d resin printer... Bear in mind that the screen on 3d printers is a consumable. They will wear down and break. "Used" can mean a lot of things. If it's been used for a couple of prints by a hobbyist, it's a steal. If it's been printing 24/7 in a print farm for months, you will need to replace the screen sooner rather than later.
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Jun 30, 2022 23:36
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Angry_Nohman posted:So I took your advice and checked the screen and the FEP and found the problem. The FEP had wrinkles in the layers where the prints were. Haha, I did this the first time I changed my FEP too. Oddly enough it printed fine, and I didn't notice until I had a failed print stuck to it and the plastic covering peeled off with the resin.
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Jul 8, 2022 13:56
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bird food bathtub posted:Oh, yeah that makes sense. So does FDM just have to be super on point with object geometry then to make up for it? FDM just needs a lot more supports because the material is less forgiving to overhangs. Resin can start with a narrow support and then kind of build up pretty big pieces from there, while FDM just needs a constant support. This is part of the reason (other than the inherent lower "resolution") of why FDM printers are not as suitable for high-quality prints with complex geometries (like miniatures). People generally do not fiddle with making manual supports for FDM, FDM slicers are really good at knowing when the supports are needed. The trick with FDM is more knowing how to align the model and how to cut it up so it needs less supports rather than fiddling with the actual supports.
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Jul 22, 2022 11:00
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