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what do you even do with a .2 nozzle that a resin printer isn't better for
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Mar 30, 2024 00:38
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You can get filament that works in a bambu anywhere. Get the exclusive parts.
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Mar 30, 2024 00:39
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Deviant posted:what do you even do with a .2 nozzle that a resin printer isn't better for Well, if you can get anywhere close to resin results then it's worth the $11 to not have to deal with a resin printer lol El Fideo posted:You can get filament that works in a bambu anywhere. Get the exclusive parts. True!
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Mar 30, 2024 00:40
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i guess, i just don't have a use case for converting my x1c to .2, it's not like a quick release swap
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Mar 30, 2024 00:41
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Deviant posted:i guess, i just don't have a use case for converting my x1c to .2, it's not like a quick release swap Yeah this is specifically for the a1 mini, easy as to swap
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Mar 30, 2024 00:42
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Deviant posted:what do you even do with a .2 nozzle that a resin printer isn't better for A .2 is sick as hell for hueforge. Way thinner layers for blending. Pairs really well with the ams for automated switching
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Mar 30, 2024 00:51
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My .2 is still sitting in the box as is my hue forge install and license. Not really out as I got in on the deal where 100% of the license went to pokymaker filament, so I can make whatever I want when I want Nothing really jumped out at me yet.,and I can't seem to get it to 'pop'. Newer versions will help but I really need to sit and read up on how it works
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Mar 30, 2024 06:01
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I tried running an experimental E3D 0.15mm back in the day, maybe 201 I found for .~2 and under it is desirable to run the best quality, most consistent filament you have available. Otherwise tuning stuff like the multiplier or the pressure advance is a fools errand as the errors due to tolerances increase almost square to the size change, not proportionally. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Mar 30, 2024 |
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Mar 30, 2024 10:09
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Google Butt posted:For you guys who don't just let your rolls suck moisture from your moist carpet, do you prefer the cereal box or the multi roll box storage? I use vac bags
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Mar 30, 2024 11:30
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But nozzles and get your filament cheaper somewhere else unless you have a need for their spools.
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Mar 30, 2024 11:34
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The 0.2 is nice for anything involving lettering or line art that you want to be as legible as possible, I use it for making luggage tags and logo key chains and things like that
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Mar 30, 2024 13:17
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0.4 is capable of surprising detail, but I eventually had to go to 0.2 to get small enough on this dungeon artwork experiment. When the frame is the size of a postage stamp, it makes a difference for sure.
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Mar 30, 2024 14:15
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Would be nice to have the quick change nozzles in the X1C as well. I have 0.6 on there for functional PA-CF things after the 0.4 clogged up . Last night got inspired to try some lithopanes but not motivated enough to swap a smaller nozzle.
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Mar 30, 2024 14:30
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ReelBigLizard posted:How often do you print more than one filament on a print? I print with more than one filament fairly frequently. At least for color reasons. I don't do "more" because I have only one extruder. I'm building a printer to fix that though... (I have two ender 3's in the garage that are gonna turn into a dual gantry IDEX..) Reliablity is tied to trying to run two plastics through the same hot end "quickly". I print with more than one filament most, when I'm trying to empty spools. I think "idex" is about as good as it gets for those printing "real things". Maybe three? One for the main filament, one for support, one for "the different" filament? EG: TPU, or in your case, radiation blocking, etc.. w00tmonger posted:yeah so I think the crux of the confusion here, is that an ender 3 vs pretty much any printer equivalent to a bambu p1s(etc) is night and day. Yeah... but bambu calls home. And most of the bambu parts are "bambu parts". I can walk into microcenter for Ender parts, or go to the local industrial supplier for most of the bits. ... Course I am now drinking the Voron KoolAid. If I can't get it from McMaster and HomeDepot I don't want it. Google Butt posted:For you guys who don't just let your rolls suck moisture from your moist carpet, do you prefer the cereal box or the multi roll box storage? Not.. for moisture.. as I don't have anything that can really manage that. But I use gallon bags to keep the spools clean. Dust/crap from storing on shelves is my number one cause of needing to swap nozzles. My oven is how I deal with moisture. Google Butt posted:filament is basically room dessicant if u think about it This makes me vaguely angry. I'm going to steal it. Deviant posted:what do you even do with a .2 nozzle that a resin printer isn't better for Better mechanical properties. Print in the house. Use colors. Use multiple colors. Use materials that will last more than a couple years. Use materials that are stable in the long term. Ok, so how about something to contribute. This print in place Vice Grip is... functional, and fun. https://www.printables.com/model/511276-vise-grip-print-in-place They work pretty good, at least for model making. Probally light woodworking? To get back to the "I wanna shrink something". To print these on my V0, I had to shrink it to 75%. Which completely closed all the joints. The publisher has a "loose tolerances" version, which is perfect at .75 scale.
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Mar 30, 2024 16:08
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Nerobro posted:And most of the bambu parts are "bambu parts". I can walk into microcenter for Ender parts, or go to the local industrial supplier for most of the bits. Micro Center's started selling Bambu stuff too, my local one has at least one or two of every spare part on the shelves now
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Mar 30, 2024 16:21
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Nerobro posted:
Same. I came into this via rep rap promise, and you can take that away only from my cold, dead, voc infused hand.
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Mar 30, 2024 16:29
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gbut posted:Same. I came into this via rep rap promise, and you can take that away only from my cold, dead, voc infused hand. I bought a reprap mendelmax (8020 framed) kit in winter 2012. I had never seen a printer in person let alone used one before but I was pretty disappointed in how crude it was so I *acquired* Autodesk Inventor and spent that winter on my boat designing a whole new delta printer. Its finally going to get a full rebuild this year after over a decade of service. And by rebuild I mean it's probably going to reuse a chunk of the linear and mechanical components with a totally new frame, electronics and end effector. I was never satisfied with the whole design so I only ever released parts of it that were applicable to other designs. Everything else got superceded by new designs but my magnetic rod ends still get a lot of downloads and even the occasional tip. My ender friend and I were looking hard at voron for our next build. The ender got him hooked, and adapting my old V6 onto it taught him CAD. (Applying this and all the other upgrades taught him about wiring organisation and integration hell lol). He's just put together quite a promising corexy assembly in onshape though so maybe we're off down another rabbit hole lol.
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Mar 30, 2024 19:27
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ReelBigLizard posted:How often do you print more than one filament on a print? Rarely. I have currently have a Palette on a Voron 2.4, and an X1C. ReelBigLizard posted:What is the main gripe if there is one? Time to change? Waste? Complexity? Reliability? Waste, and the dirty mixing of colours when going from extremes. Black to white for example. The waste really isn't bad from a dollar cost perspective, it does really twig the whole this-is-inefficient nerve though. I do run multi-colour prints, printing by object, as this leads to less waste and I can fit the parts together easily enough. The multi-material on the machine pre-loaded is more useful to me than being able to print multiple colours in the same single piece. ReelBigLizard posted:When you do print more than one, how often is it more than two? Nearly always.
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Mar 30, 2024 23:49
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Heat your shop with a printer-poop-fired stove, like an old timey wood shop burning scraps and sawdust. (your insurance company and local air quality control district hate this one weird trick)
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Mar 31, 2024 00:21
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(tho tbf they also hate it when wood shops do this)
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Mar 31, 2024 00:22
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Google Butt posted:Hmm so I have a $50 voucher for bambu. Do I order 3 rolls of filament or the .2 nozzle, smooth pei sheet and a single roll of filament for my mini? I have a .6 nozzle already.. The .2 nozzle is really impressive for miniatures with lots of detail, or for small text designs. If you’re not missing those 2 things than the .2 isn’t worth it for you IMO. The smooth PEI sheet is fantastic and I use it way more than my textured plate.
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Mar 31, 2024 00:52
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The Bambu US store is always out of whatever I want to buy whenever I remember to check. I’ve been trying to get scraper blades for like six months, and they don’t have the dual sided PEI plate.
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Mar 31, 2024 01:06
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snail posted:it does really twig the whole this-is-inefficient nerve though. pennies on the dollar. you throw away 100 filament changes worth of plastic on a failed print.
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Mar 31, 2024 01:54
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For everyone who cares about Bambu Labs printers calling back to China, I can assure you the People’s Republic doesn’t give half a poo poo about your miniatures and Benchies lmao Maybe your dildos but only because the central plenary committee has been ruled by size queens.
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Mar 31, 2024 02:44
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NewFatMike posted:I can assure you the People’s Republic doesn’t give half a poo poo about your miniatures and Benchies lmao So... I figure at some point some alphabet boys are gonna start asking for what people printed. Say... you get arrested, so they see you have both guns and a 3d printer. Or you live in in Alabama, Georgia or Texas and have printed sex toys, or potentially sex use toys. This is a direction they could take to ~find more to charge you with~. So, yeah. No. I want to keep that data in my posession.
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Mar 31, 2024 02:51
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Yeah people with machining equipment are hauled into jail all the time for suspicion of making firearms by simply having the machinery to do it. Every forum is alight with many such cases, I should have known.
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Mar 31, 2024 03:00
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NewFatMike posted:Yeah people with machining equipment are hauled into jail all the time for suspicion of making firearms by simply having the machinery to do it. Every forum is alight with many such cases, I should have known. the ATF is highly corrupt and classifies random pieces of bullshit as a machine gun fairly frequently
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Mar 31, 2024 03:19
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I want to show China just how many bad dragon knockoffs I can fit in my rear end at a time. I'm trying to impress them since it's the year of the dragon. On a completely unrelated note: rather than embiggening my ender 3, I'm considering doing a voron build with a custom (big) build area. Any reasons I shouldn't do this, or things to look out for/avoid? I can't believe I'm just finding out about voron stuff right now, but it seems super interesting to me.
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Mar 31, 2024 04:50
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hark posted:I want to show China just how many bad dragon knockoffs I can fit in my rear end at a time. I'm trying to impress them since it's the year of the dragon. CoreXY is not the best at big sizes. Annex K2 may be a better choice, seen a few 500mm^2 mentioned by using MGN15 rails and laser cut steel parts. Or a ratrig, I think those use 9mm belts.
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Mar 31, 2024 05:06
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Deviant posted:the ATF is highly corrupt and classifies random pieces of bullshit as a machine gun fairly frequently Don't print random gun components, then.
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Mar 31, 2024 08:01
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hark posted:I want to show China just how many bad dragon knockoffs I can fit in my rear end at a time. I'm trying to impress them since it's the year of the dragon. Welcome to the fold. You've got.. a lot.. of reading and research to do. Unlike most of the general internet, the choices voron makes, or has made, have serious consideration and reason behind them. TL;DR: Buy a Trident kit, print the parts while it's in the mail. You'll be a happy camper. To start off, the magic of voron, isn't "the printer" but those choices and consideration. Apply the voron philosophy to anything you run, and you're gonna get absolutely great prints. Getting there means, setting up the printer right, characterizing the parts and build you have, then building profiles to exploit what you have. Most efforts skip at least two of those, if not all of them. The things that Voron does to make sure things are good. They specify a 6mm bed, that means you're not chasing the bed when heating and cooling the printer. They specify PEI beds, because it's not 2014, it's the correct choice. They are all enclosed, because that makes your job running the printer easier. They all have thoughtful wire management. They all have connectors ~where it matters~ so you can get back in to work on it. If you look at their printers over the last few years, you can see as they found new ways of doing things, and the decisions they made because their new decisions were ~outright better~. So to head off a few things at the pass: 1. I want to build a bigger voron! - "No" First, belt lengths get crazy, going up to the square of bed size. Voron has standardized around the 6mm belt. Going to a wider belt (that might handle longer runs better) is a complete re-design of the gantry. 350 was the design maximum size because it's the biggest you can get through a door, assembled. 2020 extrusion has a detectable sag at 350mm, and there's lots of projects to fix that. but.. there's projects. So that puts us at the outer limit of what can be done without going to much more expensive frames. As noted, ratrig uses larger belts, and works better at larger sizes. But ratrig printers are.... not a coherent product. 2. I want to print my voron in *not abs* - It's been done, but you will be re-printing, and re-building the printer in the next few hours. PETG takes a set, and sags. PLA won't survive in most of the places on the printer. There's the PIF program, and or, you can just ask someone, to print functional parts for you. It's part of the community ethos, we'll make it happen. 3. I want a heated build chamber! - Again, no. This time is mostly a safety issue. Vorons, becuase their build chambers are actually sealed.. (You'd be amazed at how many printers that LOOK enclosed... but aren't..) If you do it, it's on you, you're not getting help from ~voron~. 4. I'm going to convert *insert printer here* into a voron! - You'll make "a" printer, but almost without exception "I'm going to build ~my own conversion~" misses the voron philosophy entirely. "My printer is almost a voron"... is definitely not. 5. I'm going to build a switchwire conversion! - Don't. The Switchwire hasn't seen any development in years..... it was a stunt. Not a thing that anyone in their right mind should do. 6. I'm going to build a *Voron* but I"m going to change *laundry list* - This is a wild mistake, build a stock, or, near stock, voron at first. They're rebuildable by design, build something the community can support you with, before you go off into the weeds. 7. I need linear rails, because vorons have linear rails! - Linear rails are a packaged solution, not, the best, solution. And they come in a wide range of qualities. They're DEFINITELY better than round rail. They are not necessarily better than roller wheels. That said, having a solution you can just "use" is a huge advantage. 8. But vorons have direct drive, I must have direct drive! - Every toolhead for the voron save.. one? has had a bowden option. Both mine are running bowden. 9. CoreXY must be the best because *list of printers using core something..* - Core whatever mechanics are good for tucking motors away somewhere else. They introduce long, stretchy belts, and put heavy loads on end bearings. They're a compromise. As printers get bigger, other mechanical systems make more sense. 10. Can I use Tap on *insert printer* - Probaly not. Tap is for Trident, or V2 only. - It's a high force probe, it makes every other printer bend when it activates. 11. But I want to wait for the *next* release - This.. is always a losing game. Voron doesn't announce their updates, and they only release well tested, and ready to run designs. I have a V0.0, and I do not feel like I'm at a loss versus people with a V0.2. The QOL things I want with my V0, are things I'd still need to do a V0.2. I'm going to say it again, before I keep going here. The magic of voron, is NOT the printer designs, it's rarely parts choices, and it's not core anything. It's the care taken in knowing the printer. Give a good voron builder an Ender 3, and in a couple hours it'll be spitting out voron quality parts. Join the discord. Build the printer. Get a serial. Join the secret discord. Start seeing the real magic of the voron community. :-) ------------- About "big" printers. Big printers run into some... uncomfortable limitations. The real limit to 3d printing, is melt rate. Very little melts more plastic, than ~another~ hot end. What i'm saying is, if you could have two 250mm printers, instead of a single 500, the twin 250's will spit our your project faster. Probally even including the time to prep the print for multi part printing. The bigger the printer, the more "critical" the printer is. Make sure you have a UPS. Power off recovery.. is a pipe dream. If the bed cools down, the print is done. As prints get bigger, you need to use thicker walls, so beyond the print time going up to the cube of scaling, you're also going to lose some print time to needing to maintain a useful wall thickness. Big printers also start to see issues with the mechanics being the limit of print speed. Big prints are heavy, if you're printing big things on a bedslinger, you need to tune your printer for the mass that'll be on the print bed. Keep that in mind. ------------- Did anyone else catch Proper Printing's new dual moving gantry printer?
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Mar 31, 2024 09:43
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Nerobro posted:Welcome to the fold. You've got.. a lot.. of reading and research to do. Unlike most of the general internet, the choices voron makes, or has made, have serious consideration and reason behind them. This is a great reply, thank you!
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Mar 31, 2024 14:07
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Regarding Tap, a friend of a friend runs three Vorons to spit out parts commercially, and reverted his Tap upgrades back to Klicky, complaining about a variety of things I forgot again. Anything change in sentiment in regards to Tap that I missed since its release?
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Mar 31, 2024 14:25
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Deviant posted:the ATF is highly corrupt and classifies random pieces of bullshit as a machine gun fairly frequently not really following how being highly corrupt results in machine gun classifications are they getting paid off by big revolver?
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Mar 31, 2024 15:17
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Nerobro posted:Welcome to the fold. You've got.. a lot.. of reading and research to do. Unlike most of the general internet, the choices voron makes, or has made, have serious consideration and reason behind them. This is such a great post and should be pinned somewhere!
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Mar 31, 2024 15:29
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After getting the P1S up and understanding how Bambu Studio works. I want to say this is what I was hoping for in a 3D printer. Everything has been working great so far. Currently printing a poop chute for it. I also think I've printed more in the last two days than the last two years with my old CR10S. I have the printer in my basement, so about mid-60s consistently. I see the recommendation for having the door open during PLA prints, is that something I should bother with or just leave it shut since it's a bit cooler than what I would say is "normal" household temperatures?
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Mar 31, 2024 17:49
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calandryll posted:After getting the P1S up and understanding how Bambu Studio works. I want to say this is what I was hoping for in a 3D printer. Everything has been working great so far. Currently printing a poop chute for it. I also think I've printed more in the last two days than the last two years with my old CR10S. I have a P1S and X1C and print PLA with the doors closed on both of them without issue. It's about 71-73 in my house. The only thing I do is open the top piece about an inch or so.
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Mar 31, 2024 18:47
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Nerobro posted:
This is an awesome response. I missed that the OP was a newbie. However, I do have to mention that, the many many caveats you mentioned notwithstanding, the K2 is a perfectly fine design that scales to 500. At that size you're almost guaranteed to be spending a ridiculous amount of money ($500 on the bed alone easily, another $500 on the toolhead with either something custom built for pellets or something like a chube that can have a 140W heater), I thought OP knew what they were getting into. Nerobro posted:PETG takes a set, and sags. PLA won't survive in most of the places on the printer. The biggest mistake I see people make is thinking cf nylon is a good choice for anything other than the hotend ducts.
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Mar 31, 2024 18:55
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Tiny Timbs posted:not really following how being highly corrupt results in machine gun classifications Some folks think their activities are far more interesting than they actually are/"da gubmint" is going to care about anything they are doing when it is more likely the data will get sold to a marketing firm that sends them targeted ads for more expensive filament.
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Apr 1, 2024 00:17
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Some folks think their activities are far more interesting than they actually are/"da gubmint" is going to care about anything they are doing when it is more likely the data will get sold to a marketing firm that sends them targeted ads for more expensive filament. So you're saying I shouldn't be doing nylon-cf benchies?!?!? RIDICULOUS
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Apr 1, 2024 00:27
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