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Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

What can I do about lumpy chicken skin looking areas where there were supports? changing the angle the piece is at helped a bit, but it's still there, like the supports pull away a bit leaving a raised bump on the surface.



Using an older 2k resin printer with anycubic's plant resin. Is this basically 'fix it in post processing'?

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Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

What's in the Sovol SV06 equivalent range?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Resin printers is more about dialing in the exposure timing, learning to maintain your print film, and not poisoning yourself by using nitrile gloves, respirators and goggles and having a ventilated workspace. I've been using my Photon S for 4 years now. The only major problems I have are the current firmware botching the first print ( so I made an empty cancelable print to run whenever its turned on for the first time), and whenever I use the Tough Anycubic resin which sticks like hell to my FEP sheet unless I wipe it down with ptfe first.

And occasionally accidentally splashing myself with resin and or cleaning alcohol.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007


I also had a question and browsed your past posts and couldnt find an answer to it, are you designing these yourself or printing out designs you've bought?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Dealing with resin isnt bad as long as you have the space and knowledge basically. I can get by with just a large plastic tub to contain all my resin workspace next to my printer in a ventilated area, plus mask and gloves. Keeps all the splashing enclosed and I can just cover it when it's not in use.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

In addition to having an extractor fan for resin fumes you can try out different resins too. One of the first resins i tried was anycubics default resin and that gave me a terrible headache on its own and made me move it to a smaller room with its own ventilation fan. Ive since been using their eco resin which is a very inoffensive smelling materiel and doesnt give me any problems at all.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Power is up, heating bills are down, and free plastic gasses!

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Print a poop chute

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

gvibes posted:

Skink number 9 didn't print right (I bought some generic rainbow filament).

What happened here? Did it just come off the bed late in the print?

If so, how do I improve bed adhesion? I have a textured PEI plate at 55 degrees. Higher? Lower?

e: Also, should I have bought the smooth plate instead?

you got a deluxe hairstyle skink

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Synthbuttrange posted:

Resin printers is more about dialing in the exposure timing, learning to maintain your print film, and not poisoning yourself by using nitrile gloves, respirators and goggles and having a ventilated workspace. I've been using my Photon S for 4 years now. The only major problems I have are the current firmware botching the first print ( so I made an empty cancelable print to run whenever its turned on for the first time), and whenever I use the Tough Anycubic resin which sticks like hell to my FEP sheet unless I wipe it down with ptfe first.

And occasionally accidentally splashing myself with resin and or cleaning alcohol.

-

Dealing with resin isnt bad as long as you have the space and knowledge basically. I can get by with just a large plastic tub to contain all my resin workspace next to my printer in a ventilated area, plus mask and gloves. Keeps all the splashing enclosed and I can just cover it when it's not in use.

-

In addition to having an extractor fan for resin fumes you can try out different resins too. One of the first resins i tried was anycubics default resin and that gave me a terrible headache on its own and made me move it to a smaller room with its own ventilation fan. Ive since been using their eco resin which is a very inoffensive smelling materiel and doesnt give me any problems at all.

Just a copy paste of stuff I've said about resin in the past. Its also a lot less work than maintaining a pre-2023 fdm printer.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Fermenting heat belts seem to be the cheerful option.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

that sounds like a new vat problem than a new printer problem. Theres plastic vats now if you want to try fix the problem on the cheap and arent sure where the problem might be.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Ah, sorry. That sounds like a pain. Didnt realize they changed their design to make it more tedious to remove the vat instead of the screw clamps they used to have. Is retapping the thread an option?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

oooh thats why my cubes arent cubes

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Deviant posted:

Has anyone tried 3 in 1 or WD40 Dry Lube with PTFE on their resin FEP? Seems like a bandaid fix for poorly set up printers, but it's the rabbit hole I'm interested in today.

I had to use a ptfe spray lube when printing with flexible resins otherwise they'd just glue themselves to my FEP. Sprayed onto a paper towel and wiped my sheet.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

If you have technical requirements Fusions better. Otherwise if its sculpts or other aesthetic pieces where function doesnt particularly matter blender is fine. You can do advanced stuff with some blender plugins tho

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

finally you'll achieve cost parity with games workshop

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

great minis for the friend who doesnt thin their paints

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

I forgot but there's also a 3d print thread in the trad games zone, but basically they've reiterated the same points, FDM great for terrain sized stuff, resin for smaller.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

ya got your resin in there more times than intended but I get what you mean :v

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Sounds awful/amazing.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Fashionable Jorts posted:

Had an exciting new error happen; the middle of a model failed to be printed. I have never seen this before, and didn't even think it was possible.




There was also a blob of resin stuck to the bottom of the vat after the print that I peeled off.

I've been making stuff for 2 years now, and except for recently updating the firmware, I've not changed any of my settings. Is this something that I need to worry about, or is this some strange one-off event?

This is an Anycubic Photon Mono SE.

This is fine. What happened is the leg fell off at some point but when more connecting structures came along it touched the resin blob and picked it back up onto the model later. Nothing to be done here except clean your sheet.

Also now you have a wrecked mech marker.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Actually you could try add a few more supports to that foot before trying to reprint. but that's all it is, just the leg deciding for some reason to come loose.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

https://techcrunch.com/2024/02/28/anycubic-users-3d-printers-hacked-warning/?guccounter=1

Well thats not great. Dont have your anycubic connected directly to the internet for now.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Printing directly on the plate gives stuff a fat lip because of the extra first x layer exposure times. There's compensation built into slices these days but you have to manually enter the figure yourself.

You can also try increasing your support thickness. I assume those are going into the unseen underside so go hog wild with them. or just keep increasing support density til it works

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Multi material prints look amazing but the poop problem is something i cant get over. Theres so much waste!

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

I mean, sure but why not print your own? https://makerworld.com/en/models/144910#profileId-157634

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

queeb posted:

Man it's a weird feeling being like an hour and a half from home in a city I've never been to running a booth and I've had multiple people come up and say "oh hey I've bought from you before on Etsy"

Brand recognition!

When're you running off some custom beaver paladins then?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

magnetic particles getting stuck to the magnet causing little bumps probably. Scrape smooth with a plastic spatula thing is fine probably!

Or a plastic card with a magnetic strip on it :v

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007


I had this once, resolved through lower lift speed and tightening up the build plate attachment

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

when you say 'some left' how little was there? so little remaining that its possibly squished an air bubble instead of resin into the print area? Without sufficient resin, it just wont be able to flood the area fast enough to get more resin into position before the next layer starts being cured.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

Are there any reliable methods for color matching an existing piece of plastic? This is RE: liquid resin.

Paint.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

Fair enough. Time to go down that rabbit hole I guess.

its the simplest way but if you really want to go down coloring resins, it really depends on what color you're matching and what you have to work with and you could go nuts getting cyan, yellow, magenta and black dyes and match it drop by drop.

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Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Is it still a 1 person show or have you been hiring extra hands already?

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