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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Ooh maybe I'll use this space to plug the CAD thread and SOLIDWORKS as another CAD option:

CAD thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532

You can get it through the EAA for $40/year - it comes with your membership:

https://www.eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center

And I can plug 3DEXPERIENCE SOLIDWORKS for Makers when that drops later this year, which has SOLIDWORKS and some other fun web based stuff for $99/year or $10/mo:

https://discover.solidworks.com/3dexperience-solidworks-makers-available-2nd-half-2021

Great OP! Yay new thread!

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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Some info on 3D Creator and 3d Sculptor may be of interest to the thread as well.

For sure - I believe both roles come with 3DX for Makers, but I'll burn that bridge when I get to it.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Any screw removal kit should do it and probably easier than actual screws if I'm reading that right.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

If it's volunteer mods, never underestimate True Believers who are also given a tin pot dictatorship.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Ambrose, if you care to share, I would adore seeing those CAD files when you're done, regardless of whether it prints well.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I buy and use Neiko calipers for myself and the makerspace. A company called iGaging is the BattleBots standard for a variety of measurement devices. I just bought a dial test indicator from them with a selective magnetic base and it's pretty good.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Do what you want as long as you have a CAD package that'll product manifold bodies, but if you ever intend on making an assembly or having someone make a thing for you, you'll have a hell of a time without using some parametric package.

I used to freelance design and fabricate stuff on 3D printers and CNC machines, and I'd charge an awful lot more for dinner giving me a Sketchup or Blender file than none at all. It's a huge pain in the rear end.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

w00tmonger posted:

Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc?

Looking to sell small stuff online allongside my resin stuff, but really not sure what's reasonable.

Going rate for Onyx on a Markforged looks like 3-4x filament cost. It's pricey filament, so that likely is going to cover energy.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Baconroll posted:

I've just ordered a prusa mini as my first 3d printer and was after some advise on what non-printer tools & accessories people find helpful for managing their prints and keeping things running - e.g. hobby knife, scraper, bed cleaning fluids (?) etc

On the printer side of things - assuming no exotic filaments, how long do you get out of a nozzle before it needs replacing ?

Nozzles are kind of "as needed" but if you're just doing PLA/PETG, probably a year? Depends on how much you print. I haven't had to replace mine and I've had it for over a year, but I maybe only have 200 hours of printing on it.

Be sure to check the Prusa documentation on cold pulls - best thing you can do for your nozzle to keep it happy. Do it when changing filament types and you'll have pretty smooth sailing.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I've been using the original Anycubic wash and cure station to great effect with a Form 3, and I'm really interested in upgrading to one of these for the makerspace:

https://www.elegoo.com/collections/clean-cure-series/products/elegoo-mercury-x-bundle-washing-and-curing-machine

You should be able to cure in a vessel under water just fine

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Looking forward to hooking up a TIG gas gun to your curing station :v:

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Hadlock posted:

What is everyone's experience using alignment pins to precisely align two parts together for gluing

I saw one guy on Reddit using 2mm pins to align a medium sized objects together with no load on them. My experience with negative space tends to have excess filament in it; not sure if you should budget 0.1, 0.2mm for the pin or what

My print is a bit larger, was thinking of using 3mm dowel + 3.2mm holes, since I can't really hammer the doweling in

These are generally designed for achieving a running fit on reamed holes, but get you some metric undersized dowel pins. They come in handy a lot more often than you might think.

https://www.mcmaster.com/dowel-pins/undersized-dowel-pins/

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Hadlock posted:

Looking forward to the post in about three months when the DEA kicks in your door with a warrant looking for an illegal grow operation, only to find a questionably legal Warhammer20k figurine print farm instead

holy poo poo, mcmaster-carr really does sell everything, don't they

Is there a magic commercial account that I can sign up for you get a discount, or are they just wildly expensive because "you get what you pay for and we're an aerospace supplier"

If you don't need it RIGHT NOW, Grainger is my next option. I order from them more because I rarely need anything that fast:

https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/pins/dowel-pins

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The Eyes Have It posted:

The instant a Prusa with toolchanging / true multi-material goes on sale or preorder or whatever I am mashing BUY so hard I'm going to need a finger splint.

I'm hoping to pick up some fancy printers, new job willing, and I'm awfully tempted to set up a huge sized Voron 2.4 with an E3D tool changer for large carbon fiber prints with PVA supports. If Prusa beats me to the punch, hell frigging yeah

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Bodanarko posted:

Nitrile gloves

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Yeah, latex is too permeable for the resins and it'll get through and expose you.

Nitrile isn't perfect either, so be timely about putting on a fresh pair of gloves and don't sweat going through multiple pairs on a job.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Ambrose Burnside posted:

a buddy of mine is getting clean and was complaining about how alcoholics anonymous has a monopoly on sobriety coins, so i'm designing an independent series of milestone coins, and also the Sculpt Ultra tooling required to cast them from a bismuth-tin alloy







it's an inch long along its long axis and 0.1" thick, btw. the casting isn't great b/c i poured it cold and didn't preheat the mold enough, and it's so small that i'm running into the limits of what my printer and exposure tuning can get good definition on- see the '1 week' text, the letters just filled in from UV bleed, but i'm hype so i'm posting it anyways; the mk2 coin will be at least 25% bigger to help in the crispness department. once i have a base design that i'm happy with i'm gonna make a big multi-core mold that can cast an entire series (5-10 'durations', from 24 hours to 1 year+) with one pour.

That rules! I make medals out of pewter by laser cutting and engraving on plywood for the mold, might be worth checking out!

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Ambrose Burnside posted:

An amazing project

Holy moly! Would you be willing to share models? I bet that would be a *huge* hit at my makerspace.

What are you using to melt your eutectic alloy?

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

A Proper Uppercut posted:

Would something like this Garolite bed be an upgrade to the, now that I look at it closer, really beat up glass print bed in my Ultimaker S5? Or should I just buy another new glass one. I pretty much just print with PLA, ABS, and TPU.

Did you buy that from a reseller? You should really be talking to an AE of theirs instead of asking randos on the internet about upgrades for a $6,400 printer.

FWIW garolite is primarily used for nylon printing, no idea about applications in printing other than that.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Enders are great if you're lucky or attach no value to your time.

In all honesty, it's why I recommend the Prusa Mini so regularly. The build volume is a bit of a bummer, but $350 all in is hard to beat for a workhorse.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

poverty goat posted:

Any recommendations? On aliexpress it's like 100 tips for :10bux: so I was thinking about ordering a bunch of .4 and an assortment of misc unless that's a terrible idea for some reason

The downside of the cheapest of the cheap is that you're going to be dialing in for every single hosed up one, just spend less than $10 on one decent nozzle. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e3d-v6-extra-nozzle-175mm/sk/MW3RSLMG

You rarely have to replace nozzles unless you're using something abrasive, in which case get a tool steel nozzle.

ImplicitAssembler posted:

So, after complaining about things going pearshaped after buying the cheapest of the cheap, you're going to double down?.

Exactly.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Ghostnuke posted:

I think I've officially had it with my e3v2. What's the best FDM I can get that isn't Prusa $$$?

edit: I don't even care if it's old or whatever. My cousin has an old Monoprice III or something like that. It's pretty old but it prints better than anything I've ever had come out of my Ender.

The Prusa Mini is still my go to rec for printers. It's $350, so not a terrible price.

E: Flashforges loving suck

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Nah, I got mine in the kit and didn't need anything, not even a speed square.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Deviant posted:

where do you all like to buy nitrile gloves for resin work in our post covid hellworld?

and are the two layer, more expensive ones worth anything where resin is concerned?

Grainger for me

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The Eyes Have It posted:

I'm really curious about the CF-specialized printer Raise3D is putting out; apparently CF filaments and typical dissolvable support filaments don't like to stick to one another, so apparently reliably pooping CF filaments + dissolvable supports is not a trivial thing. (They made a specialized one for CF filaments and are building it off their E2 IDEX platform)

Seems pretty interesting - the build volume is larger even than a Markforged Onyx One, just by a bit.

Based purely on second hand experience, it feels like Raise3D lag behind Markforged and Stratasys machines aimed at a similar target, but Raise frequently have bigger beds at the same price.

It's not big stuff, mostly fiddliness, but if I'm over $2k on a printer, my appetite for fiddliness rapidly approaches 0.

PA12 only is a bit of a disappointment at this stage, especially for a single material only printer. Since using PA6 in my BattleBots bot, I'm a solid convert (for non flexible/noncompliant applications), but I guess that goes for Markforged Onyx as well.

E: the only other CF directed printer I know in a similar price point with separate support extruders is the MakerBot Method X Carbon Edition. That's got about half the build volume, but can do a lot of different materials, even third party, which feels like a pretty big boost.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The Eyes Have It posted:

There used to be until everyone went blind

Username/post combo

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Yeah the downside to most lasers is that you're either building an enclosure or shelling out for one with an enclosure and that's *mandatory* if you have pets or live with other people.

You frequently want fume extraction or air assist, too, which makes things even harder.

The upside, though, is that you can get really precise completely solid parts, but you may be able to accomplish similar with 3D printing.

I personally think laser cutting is the better technology, but for a hobbyist or homelab it gets rather impractical in a hurry.

I might recommend a larger inexpensive CNC router like this one over laser engraving simply because the buildout isn't as intense. Workholding is an art, but there are easy solutions like painter's tape and super glue.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

That's also fair, I might have developed a deafness to anything but the bad sounds that come from them :v:

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Bucnasti posted:

I'm getting a Silhouette, it's a digital blade cutter for paper, vinyl and other thin materials. It's used a lot by scrapbookers, and by people making Live Laugh Love signs for their tastefully decorated suburban home, but I'm looking to doing nerd poo poo with it (stencils, decals and custom T-shirts). No lasers are involved, I'd have to do something phenomenally stupid to blind myself with the tiny razor cutter it uses.

I did get a Silhouette Pro 4 earlier in the year for stencil work and ended up returning it. 1/16" error per vector foot, got the exact same error on a 20" x 20" box. By the time it got to the last leg on the box it was nearly a full inch off in the same way every time.

Engineers said it was a software issue, so double check that they fixed that because frankly I can't figure out how you can make that much error without trying.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Deviant posted:

Y'all would recommend the prusa mini plus then? I want a second side printer to go with my Mk3s, but I don't have experience with cantilever or bowden design.

Edit: Bought it.

Good move!

Fun stuff right here:

https://www.cati.com/blog/2021/10/solidworks-2022-whats-new-hybrid-modeling/

SOLIDWORKS 2022 will let you edit STL files in a hybrid solid-mesh environment now, so you can finally make those Thingiverse brackets fit your whatever.

Not sure when it rolls out for the Makers offer, but you can get SOLIDWORKS + browser things for $100/year which is pretty rad. Hopefully 2022 will be available for upgrading soon.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Sockser posted:

Yknow obviously a prusa with tool changing opens up a lot of possibilities, and people will have plotter mods ready within the first month

And it’d probably be easy to attach a small dremel to one of the tool carriages and have a sorta lovely desktop CNC (that flings dust all over your sensitive equipment this is a bad idea)

But given that it enforces z leveling via … nozzle stress (I don’t really understand what’s going on there) I wonder how you’d manage that without a hot end installed

Or spend half the amount on a decent ShapeOko instead of making a terrible CNC router that will shake itself apart while moving with the spindle on.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I think both Titebond 2 and 3 are waterproof

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The person in charge of 3D printers at my Maker space would buy Prusa printers, but knockoff parts from AliExpress for maintenance. Regardless of the quality of parts, any kind of replacement would have a printer down for months as we waited for the slow boat to deliver instead of buying from Prusa.

Extremely huge brain on that one.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The Eyes Have It posted:

I ran into weird print issues (including watchdog resets) on my Prusa Mini, which it turns out is the fault of a short right-angle USB extender I used in an effort to make managing the USB stick a bit easier in the enclosure.

This kind of problem is the kind that can gently caress right off. What an rear end in a top hat of a cable :mad:

I had the same problem with a USB extender as well, what a hell of an issue to figure out after it’s been going right for a long time.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

pbpancho posted:

Prusa Mini for $250 locally. That seems like a pretty dang good deal right? I've got an MK3S+, but it's going enough that a 2nd machine would see use, and it'd be nice to be able to print a part for when I break something (was out of commission for a few days recently when my fan duct got eaten by a blob while I waited to get one from a friend).

Yeah if I could justify another printer I’d be all over that.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Roundboy posted:

Always be buying new printers. How can you print stuff when you are printing stuff already ?

It’s being complemented by a laser cutter and home brew CNC router along with my crappy 3018 router :v:

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Inshallah it happens - I’m fiddling with an ATC for the home brew machine!

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

There’s are some tumble media methods that work great also - I went looking into it a while back but haven’t gone for it yet if you’re interested.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

ZincBoy posted:

Any links to these? I tried polishing in my vibratory system but it didn't really do anything with the media I have.

I went digging around and found the things!

First, process info from the rep:

Kramer Industries posted:

Thank you for contacting us. The process to finish the parts in that blog post involved about 6-8 hours in a Plastic Media tumbling step to get a uniform, matte surface finish. The second, polishing step is typically 12-24 hours.

Step 1 – Cutting (wet tumbling)
1/2" x 9/16” Cones KSW Synthetic Media
Kramco 1010 General Purpose Liquid Compound

Step 2 – Polishing (dry tumbling)
Pegco™ BriteNut XA Medium Premium Treated Tumbling Media

Original blog post:

https://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/tumbling-3d-printed-plastic-parts/

Recommended media:

https://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/product/liquid-finishing-compounds/

https://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/product/synthetic-tumbling-media/

https://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/product/premium-treated-tumbling-media/

Tumble times vary based on weight inside the tumbler.

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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I just got an ad for Micro Center doing $99 Ender 3s for new customers. It was through Instagram, so I guess see if the “get Offer” thing shows up for you:

https://instagram.com/microcenter?utm_medium=copy_link

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