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In the end the most important rule of 40k is "they're your dudes". If you want your White Scars successors to be all gingers named Bjorn Bjornson then that's all that matters. But yeah cool lightning bolts, jagged slashes and stripes in white would help sell the White Scars connection.
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Apr 24, 2024 23:10
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Just make sure you don't have pairs of lightning bolts, which an annoying amount of space wolves will have
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Apr 24, 2024 23:33
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  Possible improvement. Spanish Manlove posted:Just make sure you don't have pairs of lightning bolts, which an annoying amount of space wolves will have We sure do have a lot of SW players locally who are very very into Nordic runes for totally innocent reasons. Part of why I was hoping to not totally read as SW, honestly.
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Apr 25, 2024 00:34
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brainstorming: pick pelts that obviously aren't wolf colors. this is hard because wolves come in most natural colors, but bright orange pelts (esp with white markings, like foxes) or unnatural colors like greens or purples would certainly work. work another animal into the iconography. if you are the space rats or space bears, you don't read as wolves. make weapons look fancier in ways that don't look norse. rapiers, filigree, basket hilts. or cruder, more obviously industrial. sten or sterling smgs for inspiration. welding, rivets, industrial plate. use writing that isn't norse runes. single letters in arabic or greek, Latin-script graffiti ("kil kil kil" is a classic), barcodes or other industrial marking.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:06
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Last of the rapid fire posts, I think I'm calling her good and iterating on the next model. Skin is giving me trouble so hopefully better on the next pass.   Cease to Hope posted:brainstorming: I thought about a fox pelt for this one - might do that on the melta gunner instead. Like these ideas overall. I may end up trying a barcode on the next model... I'll leave this one unvarnished for the moment in case I like it and come back. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Apr 25, 2024 |
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Apr 25, 2024 01:49
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FINALLY finished my last infiltrator! I imagine that guy is very fast, I suspect he moves around like a tiny armored core      And here's a family photo, with the rest of his squad  Now I can move on to some pallet cleanser projects, before I eventually paint some more raven guard termies or probably my jump pack captain SkyeAuroline posted:I think I'm calling her good I am also calling her good, this rules!
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Apr 25, 2024 10:26
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So when grabbing some paints I accidentally got a pot of Dawnstone Air instead of the regular kind. Is this still useable at all with brushes?
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Apr 25, 2024 21:36
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Axetrain posted:So when grabbing some paints I accidentally got a pot of Dawnstone Air instead of the regular kind. Is this still useable at all with brushes? Yeah the air paints are fine, they're just a little more diluted. Worst case, you may have to do a couple coats, but I actually like it better anyway because it's not as thick.
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Apr 25, 2024 21:43
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The 3 new signature sets from Monument Hobbies (Pro Acryl) are available today if you’ve been waiting to pick them up
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Apr 25, 2024 23:06
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My hands and elbows hurt but I hammered out one of the kill team leaders in a bit over one session (couple coats of the blue last night, rest of the blue and everything else today).    I liked Cease's barcode idea and applied it as a shoulder marking here, and as a chest marking on the previous model since her shoulders are covered. Went fairly light with the markings on this one, but still thinking on how to iterate on them. Not sealed yet either, so I can go back if needed. I think this guy is more distinct from the wolfy heritage, even if he does have a stereotypically wolfy head. And yes, I see the mold lines, which I didn't see until after it was primed and ready. 
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Apr 26, 2024 00:27
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I grind onward.  
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Apr 26, 2024 00:40
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Working my way through the Reaper Henchman and Hirelings box. I'm already in love with this set, the poses are great and the level of detail is just right. These are supposed to be hired goons but I'd use them for player characters any day of the week.           I'm going to pick up my first metallics this weekend since the rest of the set has a lot of exposed armor and weapons. Also a thin file for removing the plastic seams (I thought I could get away with just using a nail file but it's way too big). Would have been good to do that before I painted these, but if I made any more excuses I never would have gotten started. Kylaer posted:I grind onward.
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Apr 26, 2024 00:48
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Five Blood Knights done. Boy that's a lot of edges to highlight. SkyeAuroline posted:I liked Cease's barcode idea and applied it as a shoulder marking here, and as a chest marking on the previous model since her shoulders are covered. Went fairly light with the markings on this one, but still thinking on how to iterate on them. Not sealed yet either, so I can go back if needed. I think this guy is more distinct from the wolfy heritage, even if he does have a stereotypically wolfy head. Definitely looking less wolfy, congratulations.
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Apr 26, 2024 01:22
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mellonbread posted:
If these minis are hard plastic, then the seams or mould lines should scrape off pretty easily with the blunt side of a knife. It’s easier and better than using a file.
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Apr 26, 2024 04:36
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This is a stupid question, but I don't play any tabletop wargames so I don't really know: When minis come with small, irregularly shaped built-in bases (like some pewter models I've seen), they need to be re-based on a base of some particular size in order to use them in a game, right? Do people cut the existing base off? Or glue the built-in base onto a properly sized base and then disguise it with basing materials? Is there a "right way" to approach that? I'm just painting stuff, so for the models I have that came that way I haven't bothered basing them (I haven't gotten into making custom bases at all really, just painting what's there for cast models, and using the bases supplied for models on sprues).
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Apr 26, 2024 22:31
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A lot of the big scenic bases are hiding gameplay bases, ya. In the Loken and Abaddon diorama here (the 4th pic) you can see the actual base for Loken and a tiny bit of Abaddon's base blended in to the scenery Edit: Oh I guess I answered this in reverse, this is for bigger display bases that hide gameplay bases. https://twitter.com/Mattpaint13/status/1783797010560106870
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Apr 26, 2024 22:45
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I do like how neatly Ursula's fancy stand fits on the base
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Apr 26, 2024 23:02
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I finished up some Shatterpoint stuff:    
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Apr 26, 2024 23:10
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armorer posted:This is a stupid question, but I don't play any tabletop wargames so I don't really know: When minis come with small, irregularly shaped built-in bases (like some pewter models I've seen), they need to be re-based on a base of some particular size in order to use them in a game, right? Do people cut the existing base off? Or glue the built-in base onto a properly sized base and then disguise it with basing materials? Is there a "right way" to approach that? A fair amount of those models are indeed intended to be glued or affixed to a correct base size, assuming you mean something like this?  If that is the case, typically, what you do is affix them to the base of the correct size and then add your basing material over that. The right way to approach it would be to get the end look you desire, but it can be hard to securely display miniatures with the small bases, like the ones above, so I would advise attaching them to a base and using basing material. Basing can be a fun part of the modeling experience as well and can help your piece tell a story.
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Apr 27, 2024 00:49
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IncredibleIgloo posted:A fair amount of those models are indeed intended to be glued or affixed to a correct base size, assuming you mean something like this? Yeah that's exactly the sort of thing I mean. I have some Reaper plastic minis and some metal minis from Warlord Games that have bases like that. I was reading about the magnetic base storage approach, and thinking about how impossible it would be to get magnets into those bases, and that's when it dawned on me that people are re-basing these things anyway. I plan to get into basing stuff eventually, but for now I'm just focusing on getting better at painting. I already have an assortment of flocking stuff from some terrain, but no static grass and no real collection of random knick-knacks.
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Apr 27, 2024 00:57
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Lumpy posted:I finished up some Shatterpoint stuff: These are great! Your fabric textures especially are impressive, like Cad Bane's leather and pants, or Asajj's skirt.
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Apr 27, 2024 00:57
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armorer posted:Yeah that's exactly the sort of thing I mean. I have some Reaper plastic minis and some metal minis from Warlord Games that have bases like that. I was reading about the magnetic base storage approach, and thinking about how impossible it would be to get magnets into those bases, and that's when it dawned on me that people are re-basing these things anyway. I plan to get into basing stuff eventually, but for now I'm just focusing on getting better at painting. I already have an assortment of flocking stuff from some terrain, but no static grass and no real collection of random knick-knacks. people often just glue the whole model to a plastic base. you can cover it up with basing detail or just not, if you don't want.
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Apr 27, 2024 02:33
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Cease to Hope posted:people often just glue the whole model to a plastic base. you can cover it up with basing detail or just not, if you don't want. Hell, sometimes you glue the model to a metal base, like these:  If you're using thicc metal minis, putting them on a heavy base helps keep them from falling over. NinjaDebugger fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 27, 2024 |
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Apr 27, 2024 03:22
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Crossposting from the Old World thread:Safety Factor posted:Continuing to chip away at my army. This time: Dogs!
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Apr 27, 2024 19:56
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They look great! My Plague Marine Killteam is progressing well, but I’m starting to understand the frustration of painting Chaos. Even in the later stages of the painting process I am STILL discovering tentacles and arrows that I overlooked.
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Apr 27, 2024 20:19
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armorer posted:This is a stupid question, but I don't play any tabletop wargames so I don't really know: When minis come with small, irregularly shaped built-in bases (like some pewter models I've seen), they need to be re-based on a base of some particular size in order to use them in a game, right? Do people cut the existing base off? Or glue the built-in base onto a properly sized base and then disguise it with basing materials? Is there a "right way" to approach that? Depending on the base your choices for basing are 1. Trim integral base off completely and pin model to desired base. 2. Trim most of integral base off but reshape the bits under the feet into pins to attach to new base. IMO this is my preferred solution and ideal for minis with thin ankles not amenable to pinning or those who come with tabs rather than broccoli bases. 3. Stick the entire mini, base and all onto another base. Don't really like this as it adds a lot of unnecessary height.
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Apr 27, 2024 20:43
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   Sixty clanrats, or, no good photos, they're clanrats.
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Apr 28, 2024 00:11
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Does anyone have any pigment colour brands they particularly like? Thought I'd try them out to add another bit of texture to some bases. I looked at Vallejo and AK and was looking for something greenish for moss and something redder for Mediterranean terra rossa kind of looking dirt.
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Apr 28, 2024 03:23
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Dreylad posted:Does anyone have any pigment colour brands they particularly like? Thought I'd try them out to add another bit of texture to some bases. I looked at Vallejo and AK and was looking for something greenish for moss and something redder for Mediterranean terra rossa kind of looking dirt. also look at cheap watercolors or expensive watercolors, i'm not your dad
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Apr 28, 2024 06:05
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ha, was going to say the Scale Modellers Supply pigments are good if you happen to be somewhere they're available... appears to have been discontinued since I last checked. oh well, at least I'm not likely to run out of the ones I have anytime soon?
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Apr 28, 2024 07:08
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Cease to Hope posted:also look at cheap watercolors I thought it was pastels you could use, not dad.
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Apr 28, 2024 08:16
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Beffer posted:I thought it was pastels you could use, not dad. Yeah, it's pastels you can grind up to use as a replacement for pigment powders. I've had much better luck finding a decent selection of colors at an art supply store or the little store at my local community college, but even Michaels has pastels available. You're gonna want either hard chalky pastels though, not soft oil pastels. Not unless you want a gloopy mess of pastel sludge instead of chalky pigment powder. Ask me how I found that out.
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Apr 28, 2024 09:24
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Make sure you know what pigments you are powdering. Don't want to powder a heavy metal. Odds are cheap pastels won't have the good pigments, but always worth checking.
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Apr 28, 2024 16:16
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Virtual Russian posted:Make sure you know what pigments you are powdering. Don't want to powder a heavy metal. Odds are cheap pastels won't have the good pigments, but always worth checking. Are the non-toxic pigments considered "good" or more expensive than the heavy metals?
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Apr 28, 2024 16:46
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Z the IVth posted:Are the non-toxic pigments considered "good" or more expensive than the heavy metals? heavy metal pigment powder is a health hazard Beffer posted:I thought it was pastels you could use, not dad. cheap watercolors will also grind fairly well, or can just be straight up applied to weather/dirty things
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Apr 28, 2024 16:50
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 "Huh, it's all right angles and straight lines. It can't be that bad." 20 minutes later...  There was an attempt. The paint is already thick enough on this shoulder that I'm just leaving it. I'm not stripping the whole guy for lopsided freehand. If my brush would stop fraying on me every 5 seconds that would really help. Also if Thousand Sons Blue was not the most transparent "base" paint GW offers.
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Apr 28, 2024 16:54
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Cease to Hope posted:heavy metal pigment powder is a health hazard Yeah I am aware of that. Just wondering whether buying cheap pastels would be more likely to get you toxic stuff or if the heavy metal stuff is actually more expensive and harder to source. Or if they don't ever get made into pastels in the first place. I am sure there are purists out there who would insist on using "original" pigments no matter how toxic they are.
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Apr 28, 2024 17:19
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Z the IVth posted:Are the non-toxic pigments considered "good" or more expensive than the heavy metals? Oh sorry, I sometimes forget what is common knowledge I guess. Generally artists consider cheap non-toxic pastels to be bad, and the one containing traditional pigments (often heavy metals) to be the good ones. If you are powdering them get the non-toxic cheap stuff. Just make sure to check your pigments anyways, and then still treat it as a standard dust hazard. Good to remember those cheap pastels are usually mass-produced in the third world for pennies. I'd never truly trust the non-toxic labelling on something, but if they are dirt cheap you can be fairly sure they aren't putting in the expensive heavy metals at least. I personally know one artist that got cadmium poisoning from paints they bought in bulk on aliexpress years ago. She had terrible safety practices, licked brushes, ate in our studio space and all that. Something from your local art supplier should be far more trustworthy, and if it isn't and you get hurt the manufacturer might be held responsible.
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Apr 28, 2024 17:23
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Z the IVth posted:Yeah I am aware of that. Just wondering whether buying cheap pastels would be more likely to get you toxic stuff or if the heavy metal stuff is actually more expensive and harder to source. Or if they don't ever get made into pastels in the first place. I'm that purist haha. I have a full set of hand blended oil paints using only the pigments available in the renaissance. I don't really think it looks better than newer pigments, but a traditional palette gives a strong unified aesthetic that I like. IMO too many people just buy a million different tubes of paint and use them with no thought to building a colour palette. It doesn't need to be traditional, but color choice should be deliberate. I have some very toxic paints, a mercury red possibly being the worst, as well as lead white and naples yellow. I also work with heavy metals at my job, mostly cobalt, copper, and various chromium compounds. These are all very dangerous materials and they must be treated with respect, but you can absolutely use them perfectly safely. I find the people who get into the most trouble are those that see safety as black and white, dividing materials into mental categories of safe vs unsafe, when in fact safety is more a spectrum. Something as inert as silica can kill you in as little as ten years if you encounter it daily as a crystalline dust. Art supplies are fun in that you can just buy stuff over the counter that would require extensive mandatory safety training if you were to encounter them in the workplace.
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Apr 28, 2024 17:38
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I didn't know about using chalky watercolours as pigment, although I had a suspicion there was a way to get pigment colours without paying miniature paint companies a lot of money for them. Thanks thread! I'll go check out Michaels and see what I can find. Sadly all the little cool art stores around here have closed down since COVID. I'm lucky the hobby store is still around.
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Apr 28, 2024 18:48
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