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I'm hoping they won't wear that badly on an 86, although tbh they weren't that bad price wise here. Like maybe a bit more than a full set of ps4's in the same sizes. Gonna be doing my first few days on completely std suspension in this car anyway, as it seems silly to just start throwing parts at it. Although I have done a few things which are just cooling and braking related so you know, the basics. I do have a set of KWV3's to go on down the road, but I'll need some other bits and bobs to get the camber I want out of the car anyway. Then maybe I'll go with a set of AD09's as I really liked the old AD08R which I really liked on the mr2 and they wore pretty well.
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Apr 5, 2024 14:04
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track day bro! posted:I'm hoping they won't wear that badly on an 86, although tbh they weren't that bad price wise here. Like maybe a bit more than a full set of ps4's in the same sizes. how much camber can you get with two dot crash bolts in an 86?
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Apr 5, 2024 14:58
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That might be something I try after this trackday for a quick fix. The front should let me get over -1.0 at least not sure about the rear though as it's multi link. With the KW's I was going to go with some offset upper mounts along side crashbolts and the rear you normally get an aftermarket RLCA to get camber dialled in as if you lower it the car naturally gains camber.
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Apr 5, 2024 15:18
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I run RS4's on the miata, they're a perfect hpde tire. Wear like iron, close enough in speed to the best tires, responsive and communicative at the limit. Did I mention they wear like iron? My last set lasted 10 track days and 15 autox events, plus driving to/from the track. I have a tow vehicle now (picked up a used cayenne - 7700lbs tow rating!), and as a result I'm trailer shopping and probably venturing into the world of slicks soon. I'm very excited to be able to get into a comfortable vehicle with ac and vented seats at the end of a track day, rather than climbing back into a bucket seat, harnesses, no ac/Ps, stiff suspension miata to sit on the highway at 4k rpm for an hour or two.
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Apr 5, 2024 17:54
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 This is p cool
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Apr 5, 2024 17:57
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Data Graham posted:
Saint Louis?
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Apr 5, 2024 18:06
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KillHour posted:I have Cup 2s on my FoRS. They are very sticky but you will eat through them like pizza at a Superbowl party. Especially if you're running street suspension settings and don't have enough camber. Also, they are whisper quiet until you are already full-send all wheel drifting through a fast corner you should have lifted for. Ask me how I know. It feels like I’m already lighting money on fire with registration fees and maintenance so tires with some longevity sound good. The M3 is on Bilstein coilovers with -4 camber up front and -2.5 in the rear. TrueChaos posted:I run RS4's on the miata, they're a perfect hpde tire. Wear like iron, close enough in speed to the best tires, responsive and communicative at the limit. This is music to my ears. I’m trying to avoid that level of scope creep. For now. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Apr 5, 2024 |
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Apr 5, 2024 19:10
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How many goons are on the cayenne train at this point? I checked auto trader and they can be had for sub 10k sub 100k miles. Assuming I don't value my time (check) and can do the wenching (check) is there a better bang for the buck tow vehicle?
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Apr 6, 2024 22:42
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It's also my wife's daily driver, and the parking lot at her workplace is pretty tight. We don't frequently need a bed, and the once a year I do I can generally just use the car trailer. Given it's her daily driver, in addition to towing duty the requirements were heated/cooled seats & a heated steering wheel. Where I am, this was less expensive than a truck with that criteria, similar year & mileage, so why not? I'll be doing all the work myself (I too do not value my time), it's just light enough that it'll go on the 5000lb quickjacks I have, and spring/summer/fall there are 3 other vehicles that can be used if I need to work on it for longer than a weekend or evening. I'm sure a truck would likely tow with more stability given the extended wheelbase, but this is a much, much better ride for the rest of the time and an enclosed trunk is far more useful. I've got the base model engine with a bunch of interior options + the factory tow option checked, and it's not going to set any speed records but it's no slouch. It's also very quiet at speed, incredibly comfortable, and easy to drive. I'm still not a fan of how everyone drives giant things, but this is about the smallest vehicle we could get with a 7K+ tow rating.
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Apr 7, 2024 00:58
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honda whisperer posted:How many goons are on the cayenne train at this point? I checked auto trader and they can be had for sub 10k sub 100k miles. There's myself, Bajaja, Safety Dance and Motronic that I'm aware of. Join us. 
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Apr 7, 2024 01:25
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no lube so what posted:Saint Louis? Daytona!   God drat that is a fun track. Especially now that we have an engine that can hang (and actually pass pretty much anybody at will, that thing is a beast now)
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Apr 7, 2024 01:59
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On the less good side, Hard hit on the rear quarter coming out of the first infield horseshoe, followed quickly by front passenger corner rotating into the wall and knocking the wheel off the ball joint. This'll take some buffing
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Apr 7, 2024 15:30
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Data Graham posted:On the less good side, Ouch. Buffer going to earn some OT by the looks of it. McTinkerson posted:There's myself, Bajaja, Safety Dance and Motronic that I'm aware of. It's like 1 post above you and I miss the list? 
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Apr 8, 2024 13:54
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I’m considering a used Cayenne or Macan as a daily/occasional light towing vehicle, anywhere I can start reading up on what to look for/avoid? My buddy tows his track car with one, this fucker managed to score one of the 600 or so GT-S’s with a manual: 
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Apr 8, 2024 14:32
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Had the Lotus out for the first time today, here is a lap. Seriously overbraking and should have been going down to second gear in a few spots, but I still managed to match my quickest BRZ lap here. Few issues to sort out with the car, but it is disgustingly good for what it is. Most annoyingly is the steering wheel gets feedback mid corner that feels like the outside front is flatspotted. Happens both directions but I've not found any bushing or balljoint play, so not sure wtf is going on yet. I swapped to a second set of wheels/tires at the track hoping the tires the car came with were in fact flatspotted, but it was not to be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPh3QBKNWXA 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Apr 9, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 03:20
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Looks fun as hell. Elise is definitely one of the best track cars ever made. Any chance the feedback is it reaching the bump stops?
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Apr 9, 2024 14:02
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Livin the dream, seriously capable cars that put so many much more expensive things to shame.
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Apr 9, 2024 14:11
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honda whisperer posted:Looks fun as hell. Elise is definitely one of the best track cars ever made. I was kinda thinking about that too. The front left front damper has a collection of moist dirt on it which makes me think it is probably blown, but the car didn't bounce oddly or overly so and when I do my normal float the front left tire over the curb before start finish (transponder start finish is the short straight with the paddock on the left hand side - 14s in the video) it felt super plush. Kinda odd, but I'll lift the car back up this week and see what I can find. I drove another friends Lotus yesterday too, it is a sister VSA built car that is legitimately identical to mine except it has aero, a K24, has some Nitron 3 ways, and was on Toyo RRs instead. It didn't have this feedback through the wheel so I can't chalk it up as non-powersteering things. Fortunately the fairly limited possible options are: 1. steering rack 2. tie rods 3. upper and lower control arm balljoints 4. control arm bushings 5. it's normal with the tires on the car NitroSpazzz posted:Livin the dream, seriously capable cars that put so many much more expensive things to shame. lol honestly I expected the car to do a 1:50, I cannot believe how fast it is for what it is. The irritating part is that making it competitive in a class is going to be expensive... like $25k expensive unless I break my long standing no purple tire pact. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Apr 9, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 17:39
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BlackMK4 posted:
what would you have to do/ how fast is that class? very cool!
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Apr 9, 2024 21:09
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no lube so what posted:what would you have to do/ how fast is that class? I could fit it into the current class (TT5) my BRZ runs by putting a stock rear diffuser onto it, changing to a Toyo RR or Maxxis RC1, and adding like 200lb of ballast. The tradeoff is the powerband sucks in comparison. 170whp something peak versus 200whp from 5500rpm to 8000rpm. Kinda defeats the purpose of the car, anyway, imo. Running it in TT4 is a K24, a splitter, a wing, and a Toyo RR or Maxxis RC1. This is more or less what I'd wanted to do with the car anyway, but that is your $25k number. TT3 but unoptimized is the TT4 car with a set of Hoosier A7s. Uhhh laptime comparisons.... at the track in the video I linked these are the lap records Spec Miata - 1:55.6 TT6 - 1:51.3 - toyota mr-s TT5 - 1:46:3 - my brz TT4 - 1:42:8 - dave schotz in a c4 corvette that wouldn't be legal in class anymore, so consider it a soft 3 car. Mid 1:43, low 1:44 is about right now TT3 - 1:41:6 - well driven ls powered rx8 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Apr 10, 2024 |
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Apr 9, 2024 22:26
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Didn't have a brilliant first day out with the 86 at brands, ended up with horrible vibration when braking after getting heat into the brakes which just meant I barely got any laps in. Even after pulling out the front pads in the garage nothing looked wrong with them or the rotors visually. Scuffed the pads up and went out again and the same thing happened. I thought maybe I hadn't done the bed in process correctly and maybe left pad deposits on the rotor, I did the same thing that I usually do with the carbotechs I used on the mr2. Which was get up to around 70 ish and then brake fairly heavily down to 30/40mph a few times and then keep driving to let everything cool back down. I'm now wondering if maybe I didn't leave enough time for the rotors to cool. As when I pulled up the brakes were still hot, like not untouchable but there was still a bit of heat in them. Someone else also suggested that it may be from not having hubcentric rings fitted to the wheels so as the brakes heated up it was causing the wheels to become unbalanced. Really not sure about that, although I always ran them on the mr2 previously as without them I'd get a lot of vibration through the steering driving at motorway speeds and not just under braking. I've ordered some anyway as they don't cost too much. It's a bit frustrating because it's going to be very hard to replicate the issue on the street as it really took a few laps of driving for it to start happening. This was with a set of PMU Club racer pads and brembo rotors, if it is deposits I hope they can be resurfaced because they are fairly hard to get hold of. As the only other options for rotors would be from DBA which cost even more or from toyota/subaru which are even worse. Obligatory photo 
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Apr 10, 2024 13:50
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Happier times (the first 20 minutes) Forensic teardown shows that the front passenger ball joint popped loose. From the footage and the driver's play-by-play it seems that a couple of laps earlier he came down off the banking because of an ECU glitch that made him slow down to try to figure it out, and the transition onto the flat probably jostled the 40-year-old joint apart; and then later in the first infield horseshoe he got the rear end loose (just overcooked it on corner exit) and the rear swung left, and then as he corrected it and it swung right, the wheel hub popped free of the ball joint and sent it into a spin from which there was no recovering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In1AJXmfIEw Pulling the suspension apart shows that something shattered the ball joint prior to the incident. It's hard to tell for sure but there are no witness marks on the control arm and nothing else can hit it there. Seems like we should have rebuilt that suspension beforehand and just taken the points hit. Data Graham fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Apr 10, 2024 |
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Apr 10, 2024 13:55
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track day bro! posted:Didn't have a brilliant first day out with the 86 at brands, ended up with horrible vibration when braking after getting heat into the brakes which just meant I barely got any laps in. Even after pulling out the front pads in the garage nothing looked wrong with them or the rotors visually. Scuffed the pads up and went out again and the same thing happened. The car looks great, sorry to hear it is being a pain  Maybe it'd be cheaper having rotors shipped from the US? They're $100 for a front set and $75 for a rear set from RockAuto, dunno if it'd be cheaper to have a set forward shipped to you or something. I'm about to swap out a set of CSG C2 front / rear for GLoc R12 / R10, they've got like 75% life left in them, if you want to try a different pad to see if it changed anything. I wouldn't think shipping would be too bad. Data Graham posted:Forensic teardown shows that the front passenger ball joint popped loose. From the footage and the driver's play-by-play it seems that a couple of laps earlier he came down off the banking because of an ECU glitch that made him slow down to try to figure it out, and the transition onto the flat probably jostled the 40-year-old joint apart; and then later in the first infield horseshoe he got the rear end loose (just overcooked it on corner exit) and the rear swung left, and then as he corrected it and it swung right, the wheel hub popped free of the ball joint and sent it into a spin from which there was no recovering. gently caress, that could have gone worse. Hopefully you all are able to get it up running easily and there wasn't any subframe damage or anything.
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Apr 10, 2024 16:45
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Data Graham posted:Pulling the suspension apart shows that something shattered the ball joint prior to the incident. It's hard to tell for sure but there are no witness marks on the control arm and nothing else can hit it there. Seems like we should have rebuilt that suspension beforehand and just taken the points hit. Rebuilding the suspension with new parts in an otherwise stock configuration incurs a points penalty? That seems really stupid from a safety perspective.
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Apr 10, 2024 16:55
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BlackMK4 posted:The car looks great, sorry to hear it is being a pain Honestly I feel like the pad compound was fine, it was just when the steering and brake pedal start shaking badly I just started backing off as it didn't feel like you could drive through it. Just checked and apparently rockauto ship internationally? Also the price is showing in £ so it might be worth it just have to see what the shipping cost is. What brands are good because I've not heard of most of these apart from centric.
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Apr 10, 2024 16:58
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track day bro! posted:Honestly I feel like the pad compound was fine, it was just when the steering and brake pedal start shaking badly I just started backing off as it didn't feel like you could drive through it. I just run the cheapest Centrics, they've been more than fine for me. Is it possible you've got some kind of bushing issue in the front end?
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Apr 10, 2024 17:05
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BlackMK4 posted:I just run the cheapest Centrics, they've been more than fine for me. Just checked the shipping and it's about £100 but even with that it's still working out cheaper as the discs are nowhere near as expensive. I mean I'd hope not because the car only has around 10,000 miles on it, also the fact that if you let the brakes cool down a bit the issue would lessen until you started getting more heat back into them. I'm really hoping it's just that I hosed the bed in process really, but I'm going to have someone take a look at it who did the rollbar install on my friends NC. The dude had prepped a couple of the other cars that was at the same day, so maybe if it's just pad deposits I can get the discs turned and then try and re bed them in. But maybe I'll just order a second set just in case.
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Apr 10, 2024 17:13
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BlackMK4 posted:gently caress, that could have gone worse. Hopefully you all are able to get it up running easily and there wasn't any subframe damage or anything. Looks minimal fortunately. The cage is a motherfucker and not a broken weld or bend to be seen, including around the fuel cell. Nothing inside it moved a millimeter. The driver was pretty concussed (the gopro said the impact was 43g) for a day or so and is still very sore but no other ill effects.  The most annoying part is the MkII taillights are unobtainium now. We should have taken those off and replaced them with something sacrificial but they were so coool IOwnCalculus posted:Rebuilding the suspension with new parts in an otherwise stock configuration incurs a points penalty? That seems really stupid from a safety perspective. Probably not if we used new old stock and rebuilt it to factory condition, but we would have been swapping it out for all new components and heim joints and overbuilt it beyond factory, and that does get you points.
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Apr 10, 2024 17:25
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Pull all the rotors and look at them? Heavy vibration under braking (due to pad deposits) was the thing that convinced me to move away from GM stock Ferodo pads on my SS. They never had fade issues, but had problems with deposits: maybe check the rear rotors if you weren't also running track pads there. In Corvette news, apparently the number of track weekends a brand new normal SKF rear wheel bearing can handle is less than 1. I've ordered an SKF X-tracker hub for that corner, and will do the other rear one and ARP extended studs before my next event. Looking at Apex Pro data from my first C5 Z06 weekend compared to my Chevrolet SS: I'm seeing cornering loads in the low 1.2 range, compared to running out of grip around 1.05, with the exact same tires (275/35-18 Kumho V730). Losing 700lb and adding front upper control arms seems to matter. Now that the ABS and clutch are working, I'm excited to see how much faster the new car goes (in October, when I'll actually be free for an event).
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Apr 10, 2024 17:31
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Hell yeah blk! I'm loving this.
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Apr 13, 2024 16:29
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I had the local shop do some work on the E36 as I was short on time before next my first track session next weekend for this year. I had the oil pan gasket replaced and swapped in AKG's poly motor, transmission, LCAB mounts, and an alignment. Holy poo poo the NVH now in the car is absurd. I was told by the shop that the trans mounts are responsible for most of this so I have already ordered rubber mounts to go back in. Thankfully they are the easiest of these to swap out. The shifting felt great in the car and the power felt more "direct" but not worth the shaking and banging that I was suffering inside. For where I am and what I'm doing that is a little too loud and shaky for a car that is not full race car. I was expecting more noise certainly but not this much; in the back of my mind I was wondering if these mounts were highlighting a worn out something somewhere else? I realize asking this question on the internet without the subjective experience of being in the car is mostly futile but I'm interested in goon feedback. I'll shelve the transmission mounts until I'm further down this rabbit hole. Otherwise I tweaked the sway bar settings, de-shimmed my struts to reduce camber, replaced the transmission fluid, fuel filter, and flushed in fresh brake fluid. I'm awaiting delivery of some other items this week and then I'll be ready for the weekend. I bought numbers and they are too big. I going to cut them down so they fit in the gap between the molding and the crease on the door.  Shims, removed  Front camber was -5 (!) and I had the rear set to maximum which was at -2.25. After removing these I think this should put the front around -4.
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Apr 21, 2024 15:25
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Any tire recommendations for someone who shredded a set of RT660s in like 3 hours? I need something a little harder until I can learn to be smooth in this car but all the tires I'd think of as a next step in that direction aren't available in 205/50R15 (or 15s period for that matter)
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Apr 21, 2024 |
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Apr 21, 2024 19:39
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Turbo Fondant posted:Any tire recommendations for someone who shredded a set of RT660s in like 3 hours? I need something a little harder until I can learn to be smooth in this car but all the tires I'd think of as a next step in that direction aren't available in 205/50R15 (or 15s period for that matter) What kind of car is it? That is extremely abnormal without a setup issue or a super piggy car. Buy a set of RS4s.
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Apr 22, 2024 02:50
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It's an 09 Accent I've done a mild build on so definitely not super piggy. I was for sure overdriving it (One 110hp momentum car in a field of high-end not-quite-supercars, the next slowest car was an RS5 and the rest were GT3s and stuff, it was hard not to try and chase them with the car handling as well as it was). This track is also notoriously hard on LF tires (the only one I actually wrecked, the other 3 are beat up but still fairly usable) since every fast corner is a right hander and the asphalt at this track is pretty abrasive right now according to the instructors. I was fairly confident in my setup but I haven't racked the car to verify yet and I'm now thinking I should. RS4s will hopefully get in before the next event but I may not be able to rack it until after. Fingers crossed.
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Apr 22, 2024 23:39
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Add more front camber (good luck), or more spring or sway bar? I did a similar new to corded outside edge in one weekend in my SS, and learned that 2 degrees of camber with front struts is not enough with a pair of long/fast 180s in the same direction, and I would benefit from more slow in / fast out and give up some entry and midcorner speed to preserve tire life. That's going to be harder in a 110hp momentum car.
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Apr 22, 2024 23:57
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Yeah -2.5 front camber is as much as I could safely get from filing the knuckle/strut pinch bolt holes and it does seem like I could use some more. I can probably get another .75 degrees by shifting the strut hats over, or maybe look into making my own camber plates for more? I have a fair bit of rear bar and stock front because I'm going for the old FWD loose front/stiff rear trick and I don't want to play with spring rates until I run RAD in Edmonton because there's a bastard of a bump before their super-fun chicane and I want to know how it soaks that up before I adjust there, but yeah it may come to that.
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Apr 23, 2024 00:58
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On those tracks that murder 1 tire rotate them often. Say halfway though the first day, then after so it's ready for day two, then at lunch again. Don't be afraid to run them backwards if they're directional. It won't fix the base issues but you'll at least wear them evenly. You can also have them flipped on the rims to balance inner / outer wear to stretch it even further.
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Apr 23, 2024 01:21
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Oh yeah, 'bring a jack and impact' is definitely on my to-do list as well. As is 'pay more attention to the drat rubber so you can catch it before the cords come out to say hi', also a small compressor/inflator because I dropped pressure the first couple sessions but it suddenly got very cold and I think that's a huge part of why I was running up the sidewall.
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Apr 23, 2024 01:34
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I’ll be at Summit Point both days this weekend if anyone else is going.
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Apr 25, 2024 16:27
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Went and ordered the correct DBA discs as they were available, although shipped from poland so didn't have to wait for them to come. Now just wondering if I should stick with the PMU Clubracers, or switch to another compound. Tempted to go back to Carbotech XP8 as I used them for close to 10 years on the mr2 and had no issues, but I got fed up of them on the street being so noisy and dusty. Maybe an option is to buy a set of their street compound alongside the xp8 and just swap them over as apparently that is ok. Someone also suggested Pagid RS29's, or maybe I should just go with DS2500's as maybe I don't really need a super aggressive compound with how big the brakes are on this car. I was going to go with the DS2500's initially as I've used them once before and they weren't bad, but for some reason they were like close to £150 more over the PMU's for a full set. I haven't had a chance to pull anything off the car really especially since my ancient jack fell apart so I need to buy a new alu one that I can lug with me to tracks.
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Apr 25, 2024 17:08
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