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So I've got this rad van.   I went down to northern Idaho last November, bought the van on Craigslist for $6300, got it set up to live out of for $300 at a buddies place in Couer d'Alene and spent the next... 8 months driving down the west coast, all over the southwest, and up through Canada to southcentral Alaska. Now I'm back at home in Alaska, and daily driving a badass 4x4 campervan is getting expensive/inconvenient. There's a lot I'd still like to do to my van and there's no way I'm getting rid of it, but a 5spd 4x4 light truck would be a lot better for work...        ...and it just so happens a buddies family wants one out of their yard. Needs a LOT of work obviously, but $250, runs and drives, and other than not having the xtra cab or a solid front axle I've wanted this exact truck since I was a kid. 5spd manual 4wd 1995 Toyota Pickup. Vid of it idling/revving: https://vid.me/QW8 I've poked around at it a little, and the problems I have noticed so far are: *something wrong with brakes. they didn't work, I poured a bunch of brake fluid in, about 3 applications of the brakes later pedal lost all resistance again and there was a big puddle under LF caliper *RR leaf spring busted *tires holding air but looking pretty sad *starts up fine, but by touching the starter wire to the battery *no lights/signals other than headlights, wiring for them all seems good though w/ multimeter though. *thing that makes the flashers/blinkers tick is busted, it just makes a buzzing noise and they stay on *no interior carpet/all interior trim off at the moment/cracked dash *seat missing bolts *cracked windshield *no front grill/bumper *loose passenger side door seal *body is dented/scratched/rusting/ugly/worthless, especially bed *tailgate doesn't work right, still latches though so could be worse the good: *took about 6 seconds to start up after sitting 2 years *hard to tell much without actually driving, but clutch/steering feel smooth and it goes into all gears easily *no leaks in the cab *heat/ac/stereo/interior lights all work *160,000 miles *almost rust-free, for the area The idea is that I could learn a little more about working on cars, specifically 4x4 stuff at no risk to my precious van and end up with a nice truck to run around in. Looks are not important at all, honestly I'd get more "cred" around here fixing the tailgate and lights and throwing the cheapest legal bumper on the front than restoring it to factory perfection. I have about $1500 to work with. Junkyards are unfortunately not an option where I live, and shipping is usually very expensive. I have limited mechanical experience but am by no means an expert. I did oil changes and replaced the valve cover gasket, tie rod ends, brake pads and headlight assembly on my Civic but gave up on replacing the clutch when i couldn't get the axle nut off after a couple weeks of 2x daily liquid wrench and an 8ft cheater bar. I have access to all kinds of construction tools including an electric impact w/ sockets but would be working on the truck in a gravel lot and really don't have any auto specific tools. I guess what I'm asking is, does getting this truck back on the road seem like a feasible beginner project and about how much should I expect to spend? I would love any advice I can get. I have so many more questions both about little things I need/want to do to my van and about this truck but my opportunity to pick the truck up is limited time so that's what I'm more focused on. I could really use some help evaluating the current condition of the truck as well. I took a lot more pictures than I posted here and can get more, if that can help anyone tell me anything about it.
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Aug 18, 2014 06:56
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| # ? May 22, 2024 06:09 |
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Personally, I'd say if you have the mechanical (and electrical) ability to get it on the road, and it has a title, buy it. The reason the turn signal blinker is buzzing is because there's no load on it - it needs lights to work properly, otherwise it just turns into a buzzer or does nothing (they're cheap to replace anyway). Why do you have to jump the starter to get it running? Is the ignition switch bad? Is it the positive cable for the truck that has to be touched to the battery, a smaller wire, or what? If it's the main positive wire, you have either a stuck solenoid or a bad ignition switch. Solenoid usually comes with a starter. The drivetrain leaks WILL need to be addressed. Hopefully they're just pinion seals. If you hear a clattering for about 1-2 seconds after a cold start (not a 2 year cold start, just one that's been sitting overnight or a few days), you'll be replacing the timing chain guides as well. They're cheap, but a bit of a PITA in that the valve cover and timing cover have to come off (which means the fan also comes off, and probably the water pump). I'd hit Amazon for new lights, find a front bumper on ebay (maybe even Amazon), and if you're in an area that does inspections, ask them if they'll do a "pre-inspection" and tell you what it needs to pass. If you have Amazon Prime, shipping is typically pretty cheap. Or go bumperless and just figure out a way to mount the front signal and parking lamps (could use generic ones from a parts store, just remember the front lenses need to be amber). The hard part will be the springs - you're going to have to get a matching set (if one is broken, the other isn't far behind). You WILL need a junkyard for that, or ebay. How badly broken is the spring? Just 1 layer, or the whole thing? I wouldn't take it over 30-40 mph with 1 broken leaf, but if it has more than 1 broken I wouldn't drive it at all. I also wouldn't drive it if the tires appear dry rotted. They should have a date code on them - if they're more than 8 years old, they're pretty much trash (I wouldn't trust over 5 years at highway speeds). The brake fluid geyser is likely a popped hose to that caliper. Plan to replace the hoses at all 4 corners. If it were here, I'd already own it, but I have much easier access to junkyards than you do, and there's TONS of Toyotas here.  The springs will likely be the most expensive things (especially with shipping). You could use trailer lights or the Jeep-clone lights every parts store seems to carry for taillights if getting the original style is cost-prohibitive, but since the original setup used a separate bulb for the rear turn signal, you'll need an additional bulb/fixture for that (it can be red or amber, lens can be clear, amber, or red). An alternative, if reverse lights aren't required by law there (aka no vehicle inspection, or Texas vehicle inspection, take your pick), is to put an amber bulb in the reverse light portion of the housing, instead of rigging another bulb housing under the first. Ideally you should be able to find someone on ebay that will ship a set of taillamps using USPS Priority in a large flat rate box. They should fit. The front signals should fit in a small or medium flat rate box. I'd also replace all the fluids, along with the radiator and heater hoses. $1500 will be hard to stay within, simply because of shipping costs. Down here I could have all of the parts (non-body stuff) for under $500, and probably the springs for under $100. You do have ONE cheap option for shipping - and that's USPS. Fedex, UPS, etc will rape you without a reacharound or even spit for lube, while USPS will ship anywhere in the US (including Puerto Rico and Hawaii) for the same cost as shipping from New York to California - for first class mail. Priority mail is also an option if the part will fit into a flat rate envelope. If it won't, you're considered "Zone 8" (2nd most expensive). The largest flat rate box is $17.45 to ship anywhere that USPS serves and can weigh up to 70 lbs without surcharge, except for military APO addresses (slightly cheaper). edit: also, post the van in the RV/Camper megathread. It needs some new life breathed into it, and a lot of us (myself included) would love something like a 4x4 van. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 07:43
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some texas redneck posted:Why do you have to jump the starter to get it running? Is the ignition switch bad? Is it the positive cable for the truck that has to be touched to the battery, a smaller wire, or what? If it's the main positive wire, you have either a stuck solenoid or a bad ignition switch. Solenoid usually comes with a starter. I don't know WHY, that's how it was when i got there. Starting procedure was turn the key to run, pop the hood, touch newer looking wire coming right off the starter (I think) to the positive terminal on the battery. quote:The drivetrain leaks WILL need to be addressed. Hopefully they're just pinion seals. What drivetrain leaks?  quote:
There's most definitely a clattering. We only ran it for about 5 mins, but it never really went away. I recorded it https://vid.me/QW8 is that what you're talking about? quote:The brake fluid geyser is likely a popped hose to that caliper. Plan to replace the hoses at all 4 corners. Didn't even think of that, I just assumed the caliper was bad. Going to fill up on brake fluid and try again with a buddy underneath to pinpoint where it's coming out. quote:The springs will likely be the most expensive things (especially with shipping). You could use trailer lights or the Jeep-clone lights every parts store seems to carry for taillights if getting the original style is cost-prohibitive, but since the original setup used a separate bulb for the rear turn signal, you'll need an additional bulb/fixture for that (it can be red or amber, lens can be clear, amber, or red). An alternative, if reverse lights aren't required by law there (aka no vehicle inspection, or Texas vehicle inspection, take your pick), is to put an amber bulb in the reverse light portion of the housing, instead of rigging another bulb housing under the first. Haha yeah, I have a set of magnetic trailer lights I plan to use until I can cheaply source the real thing. Inspections here are a joke, I passed with a yellow spray painted cup as an "amber turn signal" on my Legacy a few years ago. I've actually started talking to a guy a couple islands over about buying his 91 model, which is apparently complete and running/driving but with a rusted through frame. Just waiting to hear back from him with pix of the parts I want so we can figure out a price. Would probably be a lot cheaper than shipping parts, like my own private junkyard. The other thing I was looking at was shipping the parts I need to my buddy in Couer d'Alene and having him stick them on a pallet for the barge up here. I can't even find the springs for sale online, just lifting springs. Might be easiest to just lift it as long as I'm replacing suspension stuff... quote:edit: also, post the van in the RV/Camper megathread. It needs some new life breathed into it, and a lot of us (myself included) would love something like a 4x4 van. Yeah, I keep meaning to but I work a LOT during the summer. On lunch between job #2 and #3 right now. Hard to find time to post!
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Aug 18, 2014 19:51
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420 SWAGLORD posted:Yeah, I keep meaning to but I work a LOT during the summer. On lunch between job #2 and #3 right now. Hard to find time to post! How do you plan to wrench on this truck if you have no free time during the summer and you're living out of the back of a van in Alaska? Not trolling, genuinely curious.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:09
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Coasterphreak posted:How do you plan to wrench on this truck if you have no free time during the summer and you're living out of the back of a van in Alaska? Not trolling, genuinely curious. Your new here. All of us have poo poo we want to wrench on but some times gets ignored because of life.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:27
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Your new here. Nah, I'm just a bad poster that was really disappointed when FuzzyBuddha's project didn't work out.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:37
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Sweet van! Is that based on an F-150 chassis with the TTB front suspension or one of the bigger trucks? That had to be a metric crap ton of fun, and way more practical than most big 4X4 trucks. For the Toyota, I am torn. Normally, I would give an automatic buy to anything with a good engine and transmission for $250, and since you have your van, as long as it's good, you can take your time working on it. These little trucks are great, and it will probably run forever, and I get the feeling that really cheap fixer-uppers of them are not common, since everyone and their brother wants a little Toyota 4X4. That said, I have to agree with STR and guess that there is more than $1500 in work just by looking at it, especially if you are going to have to get body parts and lights and that kind of thing from eBay/shipped from junkyards that are willing to ship to Alaska. I know it's not the AI thing to do, and I am not familiar with the used truck market in Alaska, but I bought my '88 Ranger 4X4 for $1000, and it was driveable, and didn't need quite the amount of work that truck does. If you can't stretch your budget by spreading the project out over time or you just want to stop driving the van as soon as possible, you might get where you want to be faster by spending more money to get a truck that is driveable, and just needs some maintenance work done. You can learn just as much from doing brake jobs and tune ups, refreshing suspensions, etc. on a truck that's already a driver as you can on one that doesn't drive.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:04
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Coasterphreak posted:How do you plan to wrench on this truck if you have no free time during the summer and you're living out of the back of a van in Alaska? Not trolling, genuinely curious. I have time. Was out testing electrics on it today, actually. I'm not big on tv or video games or even dicking around online much these days so most of my spare energy goes into little projects already, always scheming to make a quick buck or get a good deal on something. Besides, the season is over here in about 1.5 months and I'll have more time than I know what to do with. I'm not living out of the van right now. ToreA55 posted:Sweet van! Is that based on an F-150 chassis with the TTB front suspension or one of the bigger trucks? That had to be a metric crap ton of fun, and way more practical than most big 4X4 trucks. The van is a '99 E-250 with most of the running gear from an older F-350. I don't know what TTB suspension is but I don't think I have it, it's a solid axle on leaf springs. So much fun, I love being able to camp with all the modern conveniences in places most people can't even get to. At this point whether or not I buy the Toyota is going to depend on the donor truck in Juneau I've been emailing a guy about. He wants $600 for it, runs/drives/is complete. For sale cheap due to severe frame rust. If it has all the parts I'd need I'm definitely going to do it, I can get it on the boat here for $240 and have a buddy who could pick it up. The used vehicle market here is pretty bad since it's such a small, isolated area. There's a 93 Ranger local for $900, but it's automatic/2wd/rusty/doesn't start/makes me sad and I'd way rather have the Toyota.
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Aug 19, 2014 08:06
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$840 for your donor sounds a lot but once you start adding up shipping on every little thing it'll probably work out pretty good in comparison. E: can we have some interior pics of the van when you have time free please? I'm always interested in how people set these things up.
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Aug 19, 2014 10:40
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420 SWAGLORD posted:I don't know WHY, that's how it was when i got there. Starting procedure was turn the key to run, pop the hood, touch newer looking wire coming right off the starter (I think) to the positive terminal on the battery. That clattering sounds more like "typical Toyota 22RE", they're not exactly the most refined engine. Tough as nails aside from the timing chain guides though. The leaks I'm talking about are the wet spots on what looked to be one of the axles and the transfer case. It also looks like the rear main seal on the engine is leaking pretty good, which will trash the clutch when it gets bad enough. It's a $10 seal, but you have to drop the transmission/transfer case and remove the clutch to get to it. How thick of a wire was that newer looking one? Something you'd use for, say, speakers or lights, or something beefy that gave off a good amount of sparks? It's possible it just has a bad ignition switch, or a bad clutch safety switch. Or it could have wiring damage. If it's a thin wire, it's likely going to the original starter relay, but if it's coming right off the starter, it's likely powering the solenoid itself. Cakefool posted:$840 for your donor sounds a lot but once you start adding up shipping on every little thing it'll probably work out pretty good in comparison. Also, both of these.
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Aug 19, 2014 16:06
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Quick question about your van... it's a diesel right? I remember seeing you post some photos in the 4x4 thread. A conversion van with 4x4 would be an awesome traveling rig, except for the fuel economy.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:07
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After my trip to Valdez last weekend my desire to get a camping/daily driver van is growing terribly. I've been seeing a lot of really nice looking Ford vans converted around Anchorage a lot lately. Some really pro looking, some obviously homebuilt but drat functional looking. My needs will have to be able to offer space for at least myself, wife and an 8 year old. (or 12 year old by the time I stop dragging my feet) Your Van kicks rear end.
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Aug 20, 2014 01:02
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some texas redneck posted:The leaks I'm talking about are the wet spots on what looked to be one of the axles and the transfer case. It also looks like the rear main seal on the engine is leaking pretty good, which will trash the clutch when it gets bad enough. It's a $10 seal, but you have to drop the transmission/transfer case and remove the clutch to get to it. I was thinking all the wet spots were from the oil leak. They look like they're all from the same substance, and it's pretty oily up above there. some texas redneck posted:How thick of a wire was that newer looking one? Something you'd use for, say, speakers or lights, or something beefy that gave off a good amount of sparks? It's possible it just has a bad ignition switch, or a bad clutch safety switch. Or it could have wiring damage. If it's a thin wire, it's likely going to the original starter relay, but if it's coming right off the starter, it's likely powering the solenoid itself. It's pretty beefy. I checked today and it's definitely going right to the starter. Worst case scenario, if I can't get it wired up right I can just put a button in right? BrokenKnucklez posted:Quick question about your van... it's a diesel right? I remember seeing you post some photos in the 4x4 thread. A conversion van with 4x4 would be an awesome traveling rig, except for the fuel economy. Nope, not a diesel. I wish it was but they're a LOT more expensive, no regrets. 5.4l V8. I found a plug that would fit the brake line fitting, so I stopped by to block off the leaking caliper and see what happened.  No fluid came out anywhere else after that, but the other front caliper locked up so a test drive was postponed. Rotors looked pretty hosed too once I got in there. Going to stop out tomorrow with another plug like that, block off the front brakes entirely, and take it for a test drive to a rock pit/industrial area nearby to make sure all the 4wd stuff works. Still haven't heard back from donor truck guy. Another one showed up on the Juneau craigslist for $500 with a blown engine, but it's a V6 and extended cab so I'm not sure about parts compatibility. A quick google says I couldn't get away with just swapping the good engine in. Plus it'd be a lot harder to ship a non-running vehicle.
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Aug 20, 2014 05:46
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 Cleared a lot, picked up the blue truck off the ferry, blocked off the LF brake line on the grey truck, pried the caliper open, hooked up the headlights, and drove it ~12 miles to the lot in the middle of the night with rear brakes only and severely dry rotted tires. Had a little get together and cooked hot dogs on the brush pile from the lot while bros ooo'd and aaaa'd at my ~3 movable vehicles~ and offered to help wrench. So far all I've done is get the grey truck up on blocks with the wheels off and given up on removing the rusted mass that was once a brake caliper and rotor, dug out a breaker bar and the smallest cutoff saw I could find so it's coming off today. The blue truck isn't in nearly as bad of shape as the PO seemed to think, I've wasted a lot of time I should've been working on them cruising it around. The body's so rusted out I accidentally put a finger through a fender when I leaned on it, but the frame passed my "can I hammer a nail through it?" rust test and everything the truck was sold with is functioning as intended other than the backup lights. The front tires are way more worn on the inside than outside though... want to figure that out before I ruin them because they're most of why I got the blue truck. Swapped em across for now. I think the new plan is going to be to fix the grey truck up right, with how drivable the blue truck turned out to be there's less urgency to have it done. So I can research what should be done, replace timing chain guides and all the various seals and whatnot rather than slap on front brakes/lights/bumpers from the blue truck and call it good. Oh, one question:  Wtf is up with this lugnut and how do I get it off?
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Aug 28, 2014 19:53
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| # ? May 22, 2024 06:09 |
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That's a locking wheel nut, you need one of those special female nut extractors (hurr hurr) or grind some flats on it to grip, or hammer a socket onto it.
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Aug 28, 2014 20:35
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