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Leon Einstein
Feb 6, 2012
I must win every thread in GBS. I don't care how much banal semantic quibbling and shitty posts it takes.
I've got a 2013 Camry that I had serviced at the dealership for a few free oil changes, and today I was going to change my own oil. Well, the loving oil filter cap is way over-torqued. I bought the wrench for the cap, it sheared at the point where I put the ratchet in. Needless to say, I've tried everything. It is actually basically destroyed now (I bought a replacement, as I hosed up the old one trying to tap it out), and there is just the inside of it screwed in. How can I get this out? I was thinking of using a dremel and cutting it to the threads. I know it's a little risky, but I'm grasping at straws. Any ideas? I think the dremel is my only option at this point. :(

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McSpatula
Aug 5, 2006
Only the largest easy out can save you now.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
http://www.amazon.com/Filter-Tool-Toyota-64-5mm-Drive/dp/B007C9J2RY

Leon Einstein
Feb 6, 2012
I must win every thread in GBS. I don't care how much banal semantic quibbling and shitty posts it takes.

McSpatula posted:

Only the largest easy out can save you now.

There aren't easy outs that big. I'm going to have to cut or chisel it out somehow. Would using a blow torch be foolish? It is a plastic part.

Leon Einstein fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Jul 13, 2015

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
It's plastic screwed into a metal housing, right?

I'd heat up an old/cheap scalpel with a blowtorch and use it to cut out a section, then it should be possible to crush it in enough to get it free.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
Baring the scalpel method doesn't work you could very carefully start chiseling it out. Use a small on and try to go with the threads to avoid further damage.

Leon Einstein
Feb 6, 2012
I must win every thread in GBS. I don't care how much banal semantic quibbling and shitty posts it takes.

InitialDave posted:

It's plastic screwed into a metal housing, right?

I'd heat up an old/cheap scalpel with a blowtorch and use it to cut out a section, then it should be possible to crush it in enough to get it free.

Yes. This is what I'm trying to do but it got too dark last night. If I can get one section out, the rest should come pretty easily.

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010

Make sure you put something in the bottom of the housing (lint free rag or a plastic bag or something) in the bottom of the housing to catch any bits that break off during extraction. Also it's quite likely to be FRP so the heat/scalpel method may not work- you could end up chipping it apart.

Leon Einstein
Feb 6, 2012
I must win every thread in GBS. I don't care how much banal semantic quibbling and shitty posts it takes.
I got it finally. It is an upside down cap, so gravity ensured all the broken pieces fell into my eyes.

I ended up making two parallel cuts with the dremel and tapping that section out with a hammer and chisel. Once I got a chunk out, it unscrewed right out. Luckily none of the interior threads were damaged. gently caress the dealer for tightening that poo poo to like 125 lbs.

MattD1zzl3
Oct 26, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 4 years!
A dealership lube tech should not in general be trusted. I'll bet they found a way to use air tools on the plastic oil cap. (because its the entry level of mechanics, its often the first chance you've had to use them, so you're simultaniously eager to over-use a new toy and you dont yet have the finesse not to gently caress poo poo up)

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003
BIG pair of channel locks and lots of cursing.

or even a c-clamp on it then turn the clamp.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
No... you buy a quality filter cap socket. The 3/8" square in the bottom is to drain the housing before you remove the cap. These things are always put on super tight by dealerships. Always.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

BlackMK4 posted:

No... you buy a quality filter cap socket. The 3/8" square in the bottom is to drain the housing before you remove the cap. These things are always put on super tight by dealerships. Always.

Yeah, in my experience those are so tight from the factory that it'll just loosen the whole filter the first time. You have to stick it in a vise and remove the drain cap that way, replace the o-ring, then put it back to a reasonable torque, then you can use it as intended the next service.

Even the shop-standard set of oil filter sockets won't get the Toyota housings off, you need the special aluminum tool linked upthread to reliably remove them.

Leon Einstein
Feb 6, 2012
I must win every thread in GBS. I don't care how much banal semantic quibbling and shitty posts it takes.

BlackMK4 posted:

No... you buy a quality filter cap socket. The 3/8" square in the bottom is to drain the housing before you remove the cap. These things are always put on super tight by dealerships. Always.

The oil cap socket I bought sheared off where the ratchet attaches. There are about 5 weld points there and this fucker was tight enough to destroy it.

The new cap I got doesn't have the middle hole for draining. It is all metal as well.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

Leon Einstein posted:

The oil cap socket I bought sheared off where the ratchet attaches. There are about 5 weld points there and this fucker was tight enough to destroy it.
I've been through a lot of those cheap-rear end stamped sockets. :) They all break like that.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Toyota 1GR engines are annoying. It's a plain canister filter thats very accessible at the top of the engine bay, until you actually go to remove it. Even though it's right on top of the motor there's just no way to get your arm in there to pull it off by hand. I usually end up using channel locks and cursing a lot. I bet left-handed people could rip those filters off no problem.



This thing. It's so deceptively simple but there's something in the way from every direction preventing you from getting a hold on it.

Leon Einstein
Feb 6, 2012
I must win every thread in GBS. I don't care how much banal semantic quibbling and shitty posts it takes.
^^
That does look irritating. You can't get a oil filter wrench on there with a ratchet and extender?

BlackMK4 posted:

I've been through a lot of those cheap-rear end stamped sockets. :) They all break like that.
Yeah, they're garbage.

My last car was a E46 BMW, and it had an oil filter housing right on top when you open the hood. Changing the oil was a snap. My wife's car is an Audi, and it has a similar cartridge type filter that is upside down and about 2 feet up into the engine. I need to use an extension on my ratchet to get to it, and there's no way to to change the oil without spilling oil everywhere. I really don't understand why engineers don't make it a priority to design things better.

I can't blame my Toyota's design for my problem though. I blame the assholes at the dealership using an impact wrench and torquing it tighter than a whale's rear end in a top hat.

Leon Einstein fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jul 13, 2015

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

revmoo posted:

Toyota 1GR engines are annoying. It's a plain canister filter thats very accessible at the top of the engine bay, until you actually go to remove it. Even though it's right on top of the motor there's just no way to get your arm in there to pull it off by hand. I usually end up using channel locks and cursing a lot. I bet left-handed people could rip those filters off no problem.



This thing. It's so deceptively simple but there's something in the way from every direction preventing you from getting a hold on it.
Do you have monster deformed clubbed hands or something? I think that's a textbook of how filters should be done.

e: Is it because you're trying to use a strap wrench with it? If so I could see your point, but you shouldn't even need to use a wrench on it.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Jul 13, 2015

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Leon Einstein posted:

My last car was a E46 BMW, and it had an oil filter housing right on top when you open the hood. Changing the oil was a snap. [...] I really don't understand why engineers don't make it a priority to design things better.

We've got some German machinery at my job and the techs that maintain it say the engineers that designed it were required to learn how to service these machines first, so they aren't tempted to engineer it in ways that gently caress over the mechanics who have to maintain them. Don't know if it's common at other German companies, but it'd be nice if it was a more widespread practice. So far my E46 has been the easiest car I've ever worked on, so it makes me wonder if they might do something similar.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Leon Einstein posted:

It is an upside down cap, so gravity ensured all the broken pieces fell into my eyes.

I was going to needle you about starting a new thread for this instead of posting it in the general questions thread but it's clear you know what's up. :respek:

That filter on the 1GR actually looks pretty reasonable. If you're not mechanically ambidextrous or at least partially so by now, start working on it... it makes life a lot easier as a wrench turner.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That 1GR filter seems like it would be cake with a cup-style wrench and a long extension.

Only canister filter I've ever had was on my Mazdaspeed3; I should've done the spin-on conversion first loving thing with that car. So much easier to deal with.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

kastein posted:

I was going to needle you about starting a new thread for this instead of posting it in the general questions thread but it's clear

Yeah, what a waste of our limited threadids.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

ColdPie posted:

Yeah, what a waste of our limited threadids.

I said needle, as in good natured ribbing, not run him out of here :v:

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