Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp
Hey all. I'm driving some interesting vehicles and actually doing some work on them, so I figured I'd make a thread.

My current daily driver is a 79 Cj-5 renegade with the amc 258 and a 3-speed manual. It's on 31 inch tires and has a bulldog hood ornament because the previous owner was named mack. I've been told the transmission bearings are going out and the waterpump shaft has a lot of play and ought to be replaced. I'm gonna hold off on doing anything about the transmission until the weather turns bad, but I may do the water pump soon.


My other car is a 1977 toyota celica gt with the 4 cylinder 20r engine and an automatic transmission. Completely stock. It came from the factory with 95hp, so performance doesn't really match the sporty looks.


However, it's pretty light and I have big plans for it- the first step is getting it to run and see how it drives before I try to modify it.

It ran when I parked it but has sat for a while. When I bought it, it would die at stoplights, but I after some carb cleaner spray that seemed to clear up and it ran fine. I parked it for a while and When I turned my attention to it in 2013 it wouldn't start. It would crank and would eventually backfire out the carb. I replaced the distributor rotor and that fixed it, it idled just fine. It then sat for a while- full tank of gas with a can of dry gas additive.

A few weeks ago I started working on it again. I finished bleeding the brakes and took it down off the jack stands. Hooked everything up and of course the battery is dead. Got a new battery, installed it, and the car fired right up- but it only idled for about 15 seconds and then died. It still cranks fine.

I thought maybe the gas was bad, but it won't fire up on starting fluid. I checked the rotor and cap. Nothing. I figured the points were bad because they looked a little corroded. New set of points, no dice. I thought maybe it was a timing issue, so I adjusted the timing. Didn't do a compression test, but turning it over by hand and also putting my finger in the spark plug hole I can feel compression. Put a timing light on it- no spark! Swapped the distributor with another one I had laying around. Still won't start, still no spark. Old distributor back on, new rotor, cap, plugs, and wires- nothing. Timing light shows nothing from the single ignition coil to the distributor except a flash when I turn the key off. Replaced the ignition coil. Same result, cranks but won't fire up. Reading online I find that this indicates a bad ignition switch. Just installed a new ignition switch, same result. Cranks fine, no ignition. Ran it off new gas from a can. Nada. Mechanical pump seems to be sucking fine. Still won't start off starting fluid.

So, I've changed plugs, wires, swapped distributor with a Known good unit and back, reset the timing (as best i can without it running), new cap and rotor, new ignition coil, new ignition switch, the battery is new and has plenty of power. The only thing I haven't swapped out is the ballast resistor. Afaik once I do that i have an entirely new ignition system. So I'm loving baffled and honestly a bit frustrated at this point- especially because it idled when I started. Any ideas? I'm gonna go get a ballast resistor because really, why not.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Hey 77 celica buddy.

I had to replace the fusable link on mine, I can't remember why, but I think that results in no power anywhere.

Does the coil get 12V? I think it does something funky while cranking, which would do the single flash when you stop cranking.

Ill dig up my book and see if I can help. For this car, the haynes manual has the factory wiring diagrams copied into it. They are really helpful.

e: Here is the manual for the RA28 in japanese, you don't have it yet.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11461746/shop_manual-ta23_ta28_ra23_ra28.pdf

blindjoe fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Aug 3, 2015

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
So I was lying when I said it did something different when it was cranking.
Seems like you have replaced everything that has to do with spark.
I remember having to spend a long time messing with points to get mine to spark.
Also I always unplug the oil pressure sensor to pre-fill the carb with fuel to get it to start, that doesn't help any without spark though.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp
Thanks. I'll take another stab at it this weekend.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Blue CJ5 bros!!!!

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Looking at the diagram, the positive of the coil gets 12V from the starter motor relay when cranking. Power only goes through the ballast resistor when not cranking (normal running.)
From what I know, that's right and can't be the problem, as 2 things would have to have failed for no spark due to lack of +12 or +7v.
Late edit: What I mean is if it was the ballast resistor you'd get spark during turn over, but no spark when the starter motor stops cranking (no idle). So I don't think it's the ballast resistor.

Do you have a multimeter? You really need one when working on cars. It would make it easy to check ballast resistor windings, plus also volts at the coil to the chassis, if you have volts, then you have a broken earth/neg somewhere.
The neg to the coil might be the problem, earthed through either the "ignitor" module, or "cooler relay c8" Just guessing as I'm not familiar with the car. I have no idea what the ignitor module is ( I have worked on cars with breakers/points and added electric ignitions to them, but I never diagnosed stock wiring system in depth - my main experience on old cars is old mazda rotaries where everything is ripped out and start afresh as far as electrics and emissions and most stuff under the hood.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Aug 7, 2015

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Slow is Fast posted:

Blue CJ5 bros!!!!



The first thing I thought when I saw OP's jeep was "man that looks like... oh"

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Slow is Fast posted:

Blue CJ5 bros!!!!



Needs more bulldog :P

OP It's funny that yours has the Mack hood ornament - I've looked at those before to put on my 2002 jeep but they're all pretty expensive on ebay. Probably for the best..

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp
I do have a multimeter, and even knew how to use it at one point. My plan is to get out tomorrow or Sunday and try and check everything I can- i suspect it is a wiring issue like you said.

And nice jeep, slowisfast. *jeep wave*

  • Locked thread