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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


In this particular case, the state property involved is the margin of the road. The state owns N feet of the land on either side of the center of the highway. The N feet bordering our land is a downhill slope planted with rock roses. The state probably doesn't care until it finds out, which will happen when pulling permits. Sigh.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Arsenic Lupin posted:

In this particular case, the state property involved is the margin of the road. The state owns N feet of the land on either side of the center of the highway. The N feet bordering our land is a downhill slope planted with rock roses. The state probably doesn't care until it finds out, which will happen when pulling permits. Sigh.

Oh that's strange. In PA we own to the centerline of the road the property borders and X feet away from that is a by-statute state easement. They wouldn't care about this, unless they were going to need that land for something (widening a road, a delegated utility easement) in which case they would just give you the too bad so sad we're using this now.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

In my garage if I frame/drywall the concrete wall and drywall the ceiling you can see where along the top of the concrete wall there will end up a little empty tunnel behind the frame/drywall and below the ceiling.


Anything wrong with that? I figure that could be used in the future if I need to run any more wire. I've found references to that being called a 'raceway' but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to like line it in anything if used that way. Maybe cut a couple access points in the drywall? Some kinda spacers for any romex running through it?

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Motronic posted:

Oh that's strange. In PA we own to the centerline of the road the property borders and X feet away from that is a by-statute state easement. They wouldn't care about this, unless they were going to need that land for something (widening a road, a delegated utility easement) in which case they would just give you the too bad so sad we're using this now.

And even then you can fight that expansion, my parents successfully got PennDOT to go back to the drawing board on a road project that was going to take their well by holding up how much it was going to cost them to replace their well in a new, more suitable place. (Unfortunately, having them pay for a new well would have been the preferable option.)

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

FuzzySlippers posted:

In my garage if I frame/drywall the concrete wall and drywall the ceiling you can see where along the top of the concrete wall there will end up a little empty tunnel behind the frame/drywall and below the ceiling.


Anything wrong with that? I figure that could be used in the future if I need to run any more wire. I've found references to that being called a 'raceway' but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to like line it in anything if used that way. Maybe cut a couple access points in the drywall? Some kinda spacers for any romex running through it?

A "raceway" is basically any wiring path. It's a really open definition.

I'd just drywall over that space. You aren't losing that much space.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



kid sinister posted:

A "raceway" is basically any wiring path. It's a really open definition.

I'd just drywall over that space. You aren't losing that much space.

Could do the cool garage thing and leave it unpainted at Level 1 Finishing too :v:

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

I hate painting so I expect it’ll be just bare drywall for a while. I don’t really know what I want to do with it but half the garage is already drywall (facing the interior) so I figure getting that uniform is a good place to start.

Actually want I want is some lovely wood paneling everywhere because I’m nostalgic about dark mildewy old basements/garages but everyone else would hate it. The reaction from visitors when they found out I added wood paneling would be pretty funny

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

God drat I underestimated the amount of foam I’d need…and also how much to use.

Got 2 windows done with one can. Might have been able to do 3 because holy poo poo that expanded quite a bit.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

nwin posted:

God drat I underestimated the amount of foam I’d need…and also how much to use.

Got 2 windows done with one can. Might have been able to do 3 because holy poo poo that expanded quite a bit.

Yeah......I almost mentioned this bit it's something you juse have to learn by feel. It just keeps on expanding for a long time. Now you know. Cut the extra off with a razor knife. The snap off blade knoves work great for this.

It's really going to make a huge difference this fall and winter if you were getting breezes through those windows. High effort/low cost great quality of life improvemant.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Motronic posted:

Yeah......I almost mentioned this bit it's something you juse have to learn by feel. It just keeps on expanding for a long time. Now you know. Cut the extra off with a razor knife. The snap off blade knoves work great for this.

It's really going to make a huge difference this fall and winter if you were getting breezes through those windows. High effort/low cost great quality of life improvemant.

Yeah, that was exactly it. I put in a relatively small amount per the instructions (fill half the space), but there were some large gaps and it wasn’t instantly expanding so I thought “meh, what the heck” and added a bit more. Whoops.

I cleaned it up with a razor blade and I’m ready to nail the trim back in. When I pulled the trim I figured I’d just reuse the nails but that doesn’t look feasible, so I guess I’ll be pulling these Brad nails out and then using my air nailer on the trim afterwards.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Expanding foam is something everyone has to experience to understand. Acetone on a rag, pro tip.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

FuzzySlippers posted:

I hate painting so I expect it’ll be just bare drywall for a while. I don’t really know what I want to do with it but half the garage is already drywall (facing the interior) so I figure getting that uniform is a good place to start.

Actually want I want is some lovely wood paneling everywhere because I’m nostalgic about dark mildewy old basements/garages but everyone else would hate it. The reaction from visitors when they found out I added wood paneling would be pretty funny

I rolled on the cheapest white paint I could find, just to brighten the room up. It really helps IMO. The original drywall was brownish so not that pretty to look at. Didn't bother mudding any seams either.

Working on another place soon and it'll be OSB and just cheapest white paint again.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

H110Hawk posted:

Expanding foam is something everyone has to experience to understand. Acetone on a rag, pro tip.

I'm tempted to post pics of my first attempted use of it. Basically made a wall look like a moon scape desperately trying to scrape off excess with... I don't know a piece of cardboard or something?

Good news is you make that mistake precisely once.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


H110Hawk posted:

Expanding foam is something everyone has to experience to understand. Acetone on a rag, pro tip.
I learned this from my roofer and hooooly poo poo what a game changer. It just like, deflates the foam AND cleans it up really well.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BonoMan posted:

I'm tempted to post pics of my first attempted use of it. Basically made a wall look like a moon scape desperately trying to scrape off excess with... I don't know a piece of cardboard or something?

Good news is you make that mistake precisely once.

:justpost:

Also should we tell them re: once? :v:

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


My crappy old craftsman riding mower is down for repairs right now, so I was cutting my front yard with my Honda push mower. My neighbor took pity on me and let me borrow his exmark 60" zero turn


I have been spoiled forever

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



I've got an active gas fireplace with a brick facade in my family room. It actually works, and a couple times a year we run it. When we do, we turn on the gas, make sure to open the flue, etc.

As much as I generally hate this trend, we're considering mounting our TV to it. Since it's a working fireplace, I'm not sure on the rules about attaching things to it (relative to the decorative ones people end up with these days). I've got two questions. The image below isn't mine, but it's the same general idea.



1. Does mounting a mantle on the red line seem safe, in regards to proximity to heat? If I were running it all winter long I could see why that could be an issue, but since it's only a couple times a year, I have to imagine it's fine.
2. More importantly, how safe/wise is it to drill into the brick? I'd imagine that it's at least one brick deep, so what, 3 or 4"? My concern would be breaking into the actual chimney itself, or otherwise compromising the non-decorative component of the fireplace.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I've got an active gas fireplace with a brick facade in my family room. It actually works, and a couple times a year we run it. When we do, we turn on the gas, make sure to open the flue, etc.

As much as I generally hate this trend, we're considering mounting our TV to it. Since it's a working fireplace, I'm not sure on the rules about attaching things to it (relative to the decorative ones people end up with these days). I've got two questions. The image below isn't mine, but it's the same general idea.



1. Does mounting a mantle on the red line seem safe, in regards to proximity to heat? If I were running it all winter long I could see why that could be an issue, but since it's only a couple times a year, I have to imagine it's fine.
2. More importantly, how safe/wise is it to drill into the brick? I'd imagine that it's at least one brick deep, so what, 3 or 4"? My concern would be breaking into the actual chimney itself, or otherwise compromising the non-decorative component of the fireplace.

I put a tv over my fireplace, used a mount from https://www.mantelmount.com/ and couldn't be happier with it. I suspect it's fine to mount the tv there (I'd make sure you have an actual mantle to direct heat away from the tv a little). If it's real brick I'm sure appropriate anchors would do the job just fine.

With the mount I linked, you can put the tv quite a bit higher than your red line and it would drop down more than enough.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



VelociBacon posted:

I put a tv over my fireplace, used a mount from https://www.mantelmount.com/ and couldn't be happier with it. I suspect it's fine to mount the tv there (I'd make sure you have an actual mantle to direct heat away from the tv a little). If it's real brick I'm sure appropriate anchors would do the job just fine.

With the mount I linked, you can put the tv quite a bit higher than your red line and it would drop down more than enough.

$300 for a tv mount, yowza

Sorry I don't think I was clear. The red line would be a wood mantle, about 1' deep. The TV would be mounted just above that, possibly sitting on the mantle itself (and secured to the brick to keep from tipping). It would look something like this: (red is wood mantle, blue is TV)

The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 25, 2024

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

The Wonder Weapon posted:

Sorry I don't think I was clear. The red line would be a wood mantle, about 1' deep. The TV would be mounted just above that, possibly sitting on the mantle itself (and secured to the brick to keep from tipping). It would look something like this: (red is wood mantle, blue is TV)

If you have a wood burning insert the mantle clearance requirements will be noted in the install documentation. If you have a masonry fireplace that guidance is likely contained within your governing building code.

In my experience a wood mantle located where you indicate is unlikely to meet requirements. It will depend on the depth of the mantle, but generally combustible mantles of average depth need to be a minimum of 12-inches above the opening.

EDIT: missed the word 'gas' in your original post. If it's a gas insert the requirements will be in the install documentation, if it's a gas log in a masonry fireplace refer to your building code.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

I can see why you would want to mount it down there because when I lived in an apt with a TV mounted above a fireplace in the more usual position to do so (like where the white mantel is in your pic) I didn't like it since the angle was hard on the neck (my wife didn't mind as much but she also wanted it there in the first place).

Wouldn't the TV be blocking those vents in your pic? I would assume those have some function to it, but I don't know much about gas fireplaces.

Hieronymous Alloy
Jan 30, 2009


Why! Why!! Why must you refuse to accept that Dr. Hieronymous Alloy's Genetically Enhanced Cream Corn Is Superior to the Leading Brand on the Market!?!




Morbid Hound
There was a discussion of the fireplace TV thing somewhere around here recently. The long and short of the discussion was that there's a significant risk of the heat loving up your TV, depending.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hieronymous Alloy posted:

There was a discussion of the fireplace TV thing somewhere around here recently. The long and short of the discussion was that there's a significant risk of the heat loving up your TV, depending.

Only if your fireplace isn't made properly. This person's ask seems to be "how do I install a proper mantle so that doesn't happen?" And they got the correct answer: it's in the cut sheets for the insert and their local code.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Tezer posted:

If you have a wood burning insert the mantle clearance requirements will be noted in the install documentation. If you have a masonry fireplace that guidance is likely contained within your governing building code.

In my experience a wood mantle located where you indicate is unlikely to meet requirements. It will depend on the depth of the mantle, but generally combustible mantles of average depth need to be a minimum of 12-inches above the opening.

EDIT: missed the word 'gas' in your original post. If it's a gas insert the requirements will be in the install documentation, if it's a gas log in a masonry fireplace refer to your building code.
This thing was here long before we bought the house, so no installation documents. I guess it's a gas log? I don't know what the difference between a gas insert and a gas log would be.

FuzzySlippers posted:

I can see why you would want to mount it down there because when I lived in an apt with a TV mounted above a fireplace in the more usual position to do so (like where the white mantel is in your pic) I didn't like it since the angle was hard on the neck (my wife didn't mind as much but she also wanted it there in the first place).

Wouldn't the TV be blocking those vents in your pic? I would assume those have some function to it, but I don't know much about gas fireplaces.
Not having to stare up at the ceiling to see the TV is the exact reason I tend to hate them on fireplaces. Hence my desire to mount it as low as possible. The picture above isn't our actual fireplace, just an example photo. Ours doesn't have vents on the face. I managed to dig up an old photo of it from when we moved in. This is what I'm thinking:



e:

Motronic posted:

Only if your fireplace isn't made properly. This person's ask seems to be "how do I install a proper mantle so that doesn't happen?" And they got the correct answer: it's in the cut sheets for the insert and their local code.
I'm not quite sure what this means. What's a cut sheet? Is that the specs of the installed fireplace? Because I don't have that. Is the assumption that that they built it properly according to the local code, and the local code would have information about depth of the brick, etc.?

The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Apr 25, 2024

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The Wonder Weapon posted:

$300 for a tv mount, yowza

Sorry I don't think I was clear. The red line would be a wood mantle, about 1' deep. The TV would be mounted just above that, possibly sitting on the mantle itself (and secured to the brick to keep from tipping). It would look something like this: (red is wood mantle, blue is TV)

Code generally is more or less 'nothing combustible within 6" of the opening of the fire place, do whatever you want 12"+ away from the opening.' Between 6" and 12" it's a bit more complicated. Basically in can project 1/8" for every inch it is away from the opening, so at 6" you can have something 6/8" (3/4") thick and at 12" it can 12/8" (1 1/2"). You can get closer with different fireplace types, but in the absence of specific install docs that say you can do otherwise, it would be safe to default to those guidelines.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I'm not quite sure what this means. What's a cut sheet? Is that the specs of the installed fireplace? Because I don't have that. Is the assumption that that they built it properly according to the local code, and the local code would have information about depth of the brick, etc.?

A cut sheet is the document from the insert or gas log which is incopoprated-by-reference into code as "install per manufacturer's instructions". Don't assume it was built to code, and even if it was you still need to know what code says because you are asking about modifying it.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



I guess I don't know what to do with this information. Do I call my local housing board and ask if they have documentation on file for what was installed?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I guess I don't know what to do with this information. Do I call my local housing board and ask if they have documentation on file for what was installed?

You should be able to find a tag on the gas log or insert that lists a manufacturer and model number which you can look up online and download the documentation for.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I guess I don't know what to do with this information. Do I call my local housing board and ask if they have documentation on file for what was installed?

If you have a model number for the insert/gas log that's a good place to start your research. Often you can find it on a stamped metal badge somewhere on the equipment.

efb

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Motronic posted:

A cut sheet is the document from the insert or gas log which is incopoprated-by-reference into code as "install per manufacturer's instructions". Don't assume it was built to code, and even if it was you still need to know what code says because you are asking about modifying it.

Lol this reminds me of when the code guys came around to do a surprise ‘final inspection’ of my garage -two years later - how they suddenly wanted a sheet for my woodstove. It was an Atlanta Stove Works unit from around 1969, it was given to me; I found that the company had gone out of business. I couldn’t find poo poo on it for documentation.

I found a manual online for a similar model. I photoshopped in images of my stove & the installation stand-off measurements & sent it.

The township needed it to cover their asses in case I set the place on fire. I was unconcerned because the back wall behind it was (from studs out):
5/8 fire-rated plywood
Two layers of 5/8” drywall
One layer of 5/8” wonder board
3/8” terra-cotta 6” tile

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Apr 26, 2024

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Hieronymous Alloy posted:

There was a discussion of the fireplace TV thing somewhere around here recently. The long and short of the discussion was that there's a significant risk of the heat loving up your TV, depending.
The biggest issue I've had with TVs over fireplaces is more that it's about 2'+ higher than I'd prefer. But that's totally a YMMV thing.

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