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Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
I motocamped/toured 7000+ miles over 29 days this month on my EX250 (and a bit on my WR250X). It was the first time I've taken any sort of motorcycle trip, and I didn't even know where I was heading until 9:30 PM the day before I was to leave, and took it a day at a time from there. I just set a date (right after finals), prepped the hell out of my bike and gear, and left. To be honest, when the day came, I didn't want to leave. The previous semester had worked me over mentally, and the idea of the lonely road did not appeal. I left anyway, and 45 minutes into the trip that all melted away into an unbroken chain of the most life changing and self improving experiences I've ever had.
I've paired down the photos as much as possible to spare you all.

The morning of, and the calm before the storm.

The first night I was booked to stay at a gem of a place called "Hostel in the Forest" in Brunswick GA. Rustic, but well appointed, you stay in treehouses and open walled bunk houses. It's like summer camp for hippies, and I enjoyed the short night I spent there.

Leaving that morning, I headed down to the A1A that runs all the way down the eastern coast of Florida. Arriving in St. Augustine for lunch, I found that parking is scarce and impossible… unless you have a motorcycle.

Continuing down the coast, taking in the views, I stopped in a small park for a rest. It was here that I found the extreme value of a centerstand when traveling, as the soft sand was everywhere.

Late afternoon, I made it to Daytona Beach. It's a pretty place, but basically the same as all the other beach towns I had ridden through all afternoon. A nice local shop lubed my chain for free, here, as I had forgotten mine.

From there I headed inland a bit to Ocala National Forest to camp for the night. This was also my first night motocamping, so finding a spot was a bit of an adventure. This is 8 miles down a rough packed mud and sand road. I ended up getting to a park campground just after they closed their massive stone and iron gates. These formidable gates allowed for no way through or around, but I found a crack to the side 6 inches wider than my ninjette. I thought "it's just like lane filtering" and slipped through. Thus, I had a nice spot to camp for the night (yes I still paid). The ranger on duty looked absolutely baffled at how I'd appeared in his campground when the gates were closed. I didn't say anything and neither did he.

Leaving early the next morning and returning to the A1A, I hit the Kennedy Space Center around 1. Seeing as how I'd never been, and it was right there, and I needed food and coffee, I decided to do the tourist thing and do the whole tour. It took a huge chunk of the afternoon, but was far more of a rewarding and fascinating experience than I could have imagined.

The KSC is extremely motorcycle friendly. When I arrived at the parking lot, I was told to park in the shady motorcycle only spots right next to the security station and employee lots. Not only was the rate to park far cheaper, they assured me that they keep a close eye on the motorcycles parked there. I saw a lot of employees leaving work on bikes, as well.

This detour for the space tour ended up wrecking my schedule for getting to the Everglades National Park Flamingo campground that night. I ended up hopping on 95 and making a hard run south, arriving at the park at 11pm. It's 40 miles from the park entrance through no man's land to the campground. I did not stop for pictures there because it was a dangerous place to be at night with all the two and four legged predators around. Lots of puma warning signs, too.
It wasn't the last night on the trip that I used my headlight to help make camp. Once set up, though, the stars were spectacular, even if the clouds of mosquitos were not.

The next morning I left with a plan to make it down to key west and back to Miami in time for the Club Space event I was guest listed into. This was a very ambitious plan, and I rushed a bit out of the park. Just before this photo was taken, Everglades rangers clocked me at well over the limit. It's dangerous down there, and I almost got weapons drawn when I reached into my coat pocket for my wallet without warning them. In the end, they were very kind and let me off with a lecture.
They even let me take this picture, pointed the wrong way down a one way street like an idiot.

It's a long way to Key West, ya'll. I enjoyed every minute riding down there, but as the day got later and I still knew I had to make it all the way back up to Miami, I kept thinking "how many keys are there?! Come on.". I ended up arriving right before sunset, and found the southernmost parts I could ride to for a picture.


Although I was powering through the long trip back up, the ride out of the keys during a clear sunset, over those bridges, with a view up down and all around, was one of the most magical moments of my trip. The sea breeze through my gear, soothing hum of the bike, and ever changing pastels washing over everything, was a truly moving experience I'll not soon forget.

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Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
I got into my motel in Miami at 11, and made it to the club in time. I'd like to compliment the Forma Adventure Low Boots for being the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn. I did that long 11 hour ride to the keys and back, then went to the club and danced hard for 8 hours, then happily walked a few miles around the city before going back to the motel to sleep. No discomfort, no shin splints, no blisters.

Waking up late that afternoon, I took the laminar lip and luggage of the ninjette and went for a glorious ride around Miami. Cruising around Miami on a well maintained 80s Kawi sportbike is a fulfillment of some Phil-Collinsian, Miami Vice fantasy. It was incredible alternating between the scream of high RPM, and the low whine of cruising.

For not the last time, I cruised through the Wynwood Art District, taking in the awesome wall art everywhere. This one in particular stopped me up short, and held a lot of meaning for me. I love this shot. The red, black, and chrome angles of the ninja match the wall art so well.


I ended up extending my stay in Miami to four days, so I could revel in its beauty, beaches, food, and nightlife. The nice motel people cleared a spot for me to tuck my bike in front of my room.

The next day, I was back at it. A nice ride in the morning, and beach in the afternoon.

Paging HNasty . I've been on their website, and I still don't know what they are on about.
http://www.packanimals.com/

Passed this cute little guy parked, and had to pose up next to it.

Finally, I had to leave Miami. I needed a day in ATL for routine maintenance, with a festival right after I had tickets for. Because I had taken so many days in Miami, I did a 700 mile highway run home this day in one go. It was surprisingly not that bad, but I was happy to get off the bike at the end.
By the way, if you are ever in Miami and need a good spot to stay, I highly recommend this diamond in the rough. The family who owns it really cares, and the rooms are clean and well appointed.

The day at home was spent getting vehicles registered, and working over the ninja for the next leg. I did the valve adjustment, oil, coolant flush, chain maintenance, and fabricated a clamp mount for the pro moto billet rack on my grab bar. (I wish I had taken a picture of this mod. It was sweet, and a huge help in the miles ahead).

The next day, it was back on the road for the next leg of my trip. Little did I know I was in for the most hardship and most reward in this section, and ranged further out than I ever have before.

{taking a break before I do more}

hot sauce
Jan 13, 2005

Grimey Drawer
Great thread so far. Can't wait to see the rest of it. Did you take an extended vacation at work or is this during a break from school?

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Awesome. I haven't been to Miami in about 15 years, but these pics really reminded me how much I miss it. What a great, weird place.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.
This is excellent.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
V good. Looking forward to more :)

predictive
Jan 11, 2006

For awesome, press 1.
The A1A ride down the Keys is so great. Post more!

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Thanks for taking the time to check this! I took this trip in between spring and summer semesters at school. I'm currently in my summer semester, which is why I have been slower on the next uploads. The decision to do this was hatched in march, where I spent three days on a guided tour (and one day solo down the coast) around Jalisco on rad 250cc honda tornados. That was such an incredible experience that I caught the moto touring/adv bug hard. I have plenty of cool pictures from that trip, too, if anyone wants me to do a similar post here after the current trip is up.

My tour guide in mexico once told me "you have to just pick a day and then go on that day no matter what, or you will always find a reason to delay". Following this advice, I was able to leave for my trip the morning after last final, and come back during the first class, getting the maximum amount of time on the road. When on the tour with him, I watched everything he did like a hawk, and listened to all of his advice.

Small continuation:
The next leg of the trip was to make Rosman NC for a three day festival. This was one of the only parts of my trip that was locked in, and my time in Miami was a balancing act of needing to be back north in time for this. In the end, I traded a hard day riding from Miami to ATL, and extra time in Miami, vs taking two days and camping again midway. I'm glad I did, because it gave me confidence to do longer daily distances for the rest of the trip.

Getting a regretful late start, making sure things were correct on the bike, I finally got going on the next, biggest leg. Stopping for a photo across a state line was good, but I was losing light fast.

Right after this was taken, and sun was setting as I headed into the Carolina hills, I got a hint of the chilly unpleasantness ahead. I was packed and prepared for temperatures 75+, right down to my sleeping bag, and almost never saw that. With everything I'd been busy doing, checking the weather had been forgotten. Being my first time venturing like this, I learned a lot of hard lessons. As darkness fell, and poorly marked twisty backroads slowed my pace to a crawl, I ended up finding a slow moving van to follow, using their tail lights as a guide to corners. My friends at the festival were expecting me at six so, when I rolled in near midnight, the bike was swarmed with relieved people. I barely had the kickstand down before various drinks were pressed into my hand, and I didn't take any photos of the motocamp, or much else, for the three days I was there. You know how it is.
This is the only photo of the fest that I could salvage.


predictive posted:

The A1A ride down the Keys is so great. Post more!
I really enjoyed that leg. Seeing the waves crashing on the shore as I rode, and of course the A1A that goes through the Keys, was an unending joy.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
The goal after the festival was to head up the Blue Ridge, Skyline Drive, and then up to Niagara Falls and into Canada to visit friends. Leaving Rosman, taking a short stop in Asheville to get a new neck gator from Diamond Brand Outdoors, and picking up some revit gloves that didn't fit from a UPS store, I finally got underway on the parkway.

That first day was sunny, with a deep chill in the air. I asked a ranger if the cold was normal for May, and the reply was basically "at these high altitudes, of course". No turning back now, though.

The first night I made it to Rocky Knob campground, with a stop in Mabry first for food, heat packs, and some garden gloves to put in my summer mesh gloves to try to keep my hands warm. This began the string of locals on my route assuring me that "the weather would be better tomorrow". Liars.
On this day I came upon a group of riders stopped to repair a ZREX, and they warned me that rain and cold were coming, lasting for days. I trusted them, prepared my camp for waking up to hard rain and, surprise, they were right.


Woke up, donned my frog toggs, put plastic bags over my non waterproof gloves (I switched to a pair of latex dishwashing gloves over my gloves later this day), and hit the road.

To duplicate the above image a bit, this was one silver lining in such an awful riding day. At this stop I could see right between the two cloud layers. Above was an overcast sheet of white, below was the puffy unbroken low cloud layer. The only thing I could see in the distance were various mountains poking up, and the surreal beauty was very moving.

I never knew I'd go so song without seeing the sun. Given how empty and dreary the Blue Ridge Parkway was, I just worked to make time through it. As far as I was concerned, this part was just something to get through to say I'd done it bottom to top during my trip.

That evening I completed the Blue Ridge, getting dumped out in Waynesboro VA, and the Rockfish Gap entrance to the Shenandoah National Park (#16).


As it so happened that this day was my birthday, I went into Waynesboro, VA in search of a nice local beer to enjoy in camp. I chose this one based on the style, but also because of the ATGATT full face rider on the side. Nice touch, South Street. It was a solid beer.


Continuing into the park, I met 30ft or less visibility the entire 30 miles to camp. It was stressful, dangerous, and I almost ran directly into a mother bear and her cubs twice.
Some of the best visibility I got that night:

I'm not kidding about almost hitting bears. As I zoomed through the park at 20mph, out of the fog I pass a big brown shape, and three smaller ones, in the gutter, 2 ft from my passing leg. They faded into the fog as quickly as they had appeared, and I thought "what were those?! Black mountain sheep?". In all my years camping, I've never seen a bear, so I couldn't believe these were those.
15 miles later, I come out of the fog and have to brake hard for a large brown bear and three cubs, 20 feet from me, in the middle of the road. With a packed down bike, and wet ground, I wasn't confident that I could do a quick U-turn to escape. The largest bear seemed surprised that I had appeared out of nowhere, and started to walk curiously in my direction. Hitting the horn, and yelling, it ambled off the road instead. As soon as I had a clear path, I launched out of there and didn't look back.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Waking up the next day, the rain had thankfully abated, fog lifted slightly, and I looked forward to enjoying Skyline Drive, despite the cold.

I'd not seen further than 50ft views for a couple days, so mountain vistas were a breath of fresh air.



Big Meadows was a beautiful interlude to the views. Seeing this field made me want to go backpacking again.

It was here that I also blocked off the rear heat vents of my bike, in a desperate attempt to direct the heat under my seat. It kind of worked, too. Always on seat warmer! It was so cold this day.


It wasn't all clear skies and vistas, though. Most of the way was in the clouds, amongst eerie forests and white walls of nothing.

I call bs on this promised view nonsense.

But, there is a lot of charm to a foggy forest, with muted sounds and subdued shapes.

The tail end of the park cleared up, leaving me with stunning views and hope for the future.


AND THEN DISASTER STRUCK HARD AND FAST. A DEVASTATION THAT WRECKED MORALE AND PLANS!
Leaving the park, I needed gas so I headed into Front Royal. Reaching into my pocket to pay, my wallet was missing. Frantically searching all pockets and luggage, it was nowhere to be found. I'd been so careful the entire trip, even going as far as to leave cards in the hotel room and going cash only on trips to the beach. Here, at 3pm in front royal, on the one day I put my wallet in the terrible A* overpant pockets, all my eggs in a single basket, it had fallen out while riding or stopped for pictures.
That wallet held all my forms of ID, cash, and both credit cards. I was over 1000 miles from home, several days ride, my gas tank was near empty, the park was closing soon, and a cold rain had started again. Thus, my hell began.
On the edge of sanity, I talked my way back into the park, and began scouring the 40 miles of road and overlooks (most of which I had stopped at), knowing that I was running down valuable gas. I want to commend the ninja for being so good to me this day. It took wet roads, loaded down, a speeding maniac who was not paying full attention, and handled flawlessly.
Stopping at Big Meadows, I found almost $5 in change in my backpack, and bought about 160 miles of gas (yay ultra-efficient bike). I'd retraced all my steps, and the wallet was gone, and not turned in anywhere. A frigid driving rain had taken over, sunset was approaching, and I was stuck in this godforsaken park instead of halfway to Canada. At this point, a close friend I called was kind enough to take over mental processes for me. She told me to find the camping spot I was in the prior night, and set up so that I had lodging sorted. Once there, I ate some clif bars (my only food, and the first meal I'd had that day), drank the remaining Satan's Ponies, and took stock of the situation.
As fortune would have it, I had always kept my passport tucked in a deep secret pocket, never out in the open, to keep it safe. Remembering this, and sliding it out of its dark home until this moment, was my saving grace. It might as well have been made of solid gold, in my eyes. With it, I could use the gas I had in my bike to go to a nearby town, and withdraw money from my personal bank. Luck was with me here, too, as my bank is not national, and this was actually the last of it's kind this far north. I don't even know how I got so lucky there.
Of course, many of my friends from back home came out of the woodwork offering to wire me money, but I was so glad not to have to inconvenience them.
Copping a downcast nights rest in the same spot I'd been in the night before, I woke up early the next day and headed into town to get funds and figure out a plan. The plan under current morale, days of cold rain with no end in sight, was to Shut It Down and make a hard run home, a sad end to a great trip.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
9:30 AM, standing in front of my bank, finally funded again, I faced a pivotal decision. The sky was overcast, the air cold, I'd not seen the sun or blue skies in about four days. Home was two hard days away, enjoyment was 20 hours vanquished, and I was thoroughly done with the north. Compared with the paradise my leg down to Key West was, this was nothing but a death march. Without a driver's license, I could get into Canada with my passport, but not ride into it to camp or meet my friends.
I'm too stubborn for my own good, though, and I knew I'd never forgive myself if I didn't go as far as I could, so close to the border. It was by sheer force of will that I got on my bike and made that first step onward, instead of toward the comfort of home. With sights set on the Allegheny National Forest five hours away, to camp for the night, I got underway.
And was rewarded with abundance for it. Not thirty minutes into my ride, in the Shenandoah Valley in view of the still stormy mountain ridge of Skyline Drive, glorious weather awaited.

[note: this is the only photo where you can see my fabricated rack on the grab handle of the ninja. The grab handle is attached to the frame, and I just needed some extended support. Promoto billet clamped to the grab handle gave me so much room to play, more strap mounting points, and the ability to access my drybag from either end during the day, and kept the brake and signals fully visible.]

Just look at this weather, and this view. I stripped off layers, drying out and warming up for the first time in days. This all began thirty minutes after I forced myself to carry onward, and began a stretch of the most beautiful riding country I'd seen all trip. The effect on my spirits was immeasurable.

Right after I took that photo it dawned on me that this, the random lot I'd pulled off to for the shot, was the same hotel I'd stayed at on a family trip as a small child. One night, all those years ago, somehow a saved memory. My mind was blown in this surreal realization.

I cannot reiterate enough how unexpectedly beautiful, interesting, soothing, and kind the countryside and its people were in this region. Western Virginia, Pennsylvania, New York, and West Virginia, are an absolute gem of our country.

Stopping in the old and beautiful little town of Ridgeway PA for groceries and a clandestine six pack of beer, I headed up into the Allegheny National forest, by way of Kane.
As is my usual schedule, I rolled into camp just before sunset. This is an example of what my daily resting place usually looks like. I camped almost every night of the trip by choice. Prior to the trip I hated camping, but during this trip I preferred it. Picking State and National parks to sleep each night gave me routes that stayed away from big cities, along beautiful countryside and mountains. Usually I could get a hot shower, and that's the only luxury I need that my gear cannot provide.


Before I move to the next day, I have an interesting story about this night's camp. Crazy coincidences and chance meetings like this kept happening all along my trip. Given the long ride, prior day's horrors, and the weather to that point, I wanted nothing more than to hunker down in the nights chill as soon as possible. I headed to the hot showers promised by the Park Ranger on the phone, as I had not showered for days. Much to my chagrin, all the water was shut off, dust in the sinks, cobwebs on showerheads. Confused, I found a nearby camper who was letting his pointer dogs hunt about gleefully. I introduced myself and we chatted a bit. Inquiring about the water, and any alternatives nearby, he gave me a crestfallen look.
"This place used to be so nice, I've been coming here since I was a boy, but they have really let it go. The water has been broken for over a year. It's so unfortunate," he said.
Disappointed, but determined to get my shower, I replied, "Well… I have a jug of drinking water, I'll just try to take a sparing shower with that." And thanked him for his help.
Lighting up, he insisted that I not use my drinking water, and that he had jugs of water he would be happy to give me.
"Take two! No, take three! No need to rush or be sparing."
I lit up like a lamp, as even an ice cold rinse on a chilly night was welcome. Offers to pay were flatly refused, saying that he was so happy to be able to help a traveler. He told me to come by his site after if I wanted, enjoy his fire, and he'd be happy to even make me hot food if I wanted. While I had my own food, I told him I'd swing by after and share my beer with him as thanks.
Using my leatherman to punch holes in the lid of the jugs, I took one of the least comfortable showers I've ever had. Felt like a king afterwards, though, so all was well.
Eating and drinking with my new friend, I come to find he is a former Olympic Bobsledder, knows the region like the back of his hand, and is one of the most interesting and kindhearted people I met all trip. We talked for hours by the fire about my trip, life, traveling, and everything in between. His guidance on where to camp in the area after the next day's run to Niagara, and things to see before I left, were of great help.
Given how the day had started in grueling determination to carry on, ending it in warmth and friendship with such a valuable human being was a high point of my trip.
I’ll withhold pictures of him for his privacy, but have this shot of his five amazingly well trained and friendly dogs, as well as the spot where I spent the evening.




The next morning I arose and began the interesting but long run up to Niagara Falls, and back down to Kane to camp again. I couldn't make it Canada, but I was determined to get as close as possible and, while I don't care about Niagara Falls, it's something everyone should just do if they can. Bucket list or whatever.
Weather continued to smile down on me, and I was treated to heart wrenchingly beautiful scenery on my route. This region is left mostly unchanged from bygone eras, with old abandoned train lines, ancient power lines and glass insulators, and tiny villages. As is usually the case, most of the stunning views were in places that I couldn't pull over for a picture.

I may not have been able to get into Canada, but I was still going to get my Tim Hortons fix. It was every bit as good as the legends have foretold.

Shortly after this is where you all saw me post up about the weird noise my bike had begun making. As suspected, it was an exhaust leak. Stopping in Ken's Service and Sales, a Kawasaki dealer and repair shop they put it on the lift and discovered the right header clamp had come loose, and the shims under it were left on the road somewhere that day.
My choice to take a common bike on such a trip paid off and, while he didn't have that part in stock, he had an EX250 with a blown motor in the back that he scavenged the parts from. 30 minutes later, and $62 lighter, I was back on the road.
As I was becoming stressed about the time this detour cost me, as well as detours during the day to diagnose the issue, I wasn't thinking about taking photos. Here is a google street view of the repair place, though.

From there, I slogged my way into Buffalo NY, towards Niagara Falls. Given the stunning country I'd been riding though the past days, entering Buffalo put me in a sour mood. That city is like the derelict husk of some terrible machine, long fallen into disuse. I'm sure it was nice fifty years ago, but now it's a polluted concrete jungle, with the worst pavement I saw all trip. Pollution hung over the whole place like a pall, the people were hard and new yorkian, and I scratched my visor when I stopped to pick up my overnighted winter gloves from a UPS store.
Suffice to say, I yearned to make a hasty retreat to the stunning beauty of the New York countryside.
I didn't even stop for pictures next to Lake Erie, and the parking spot near the trail to the falls is the only place the whole trip I was certain my bike would be stolen from before I could get back.
Spending about four minutes at the falls, taking photos and taking in the crowds, I got out of dodge.

Almost as soon as I transitioned from the concrete jungle to the countryside, my mood improved, and I relaxed. The ride back in sunset, into the dark forests, was wildly beautiful. Arriving in the nice camp recommended by my Olympian friend, after dark, I claimed one of the only free spots left. The showers were great here, btw.
When the ground is too hard to put stakes into, and your tent is not free standing, you get creative.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
This next day was one of my "teleport" days. I set a route to make a long distance south, as I was hungry for different scenery, warmer weather, and wanted to make it to the Dragon in TN in time to enjoy it.
Before I did so, I decided to make a detour to one of the nearby attractions my Olympic friend had excitedly told me about.
The Kinzua Bridge was considered by many to be an eighth wonder of the world. Constructed in 1882, in 94 days, with only 125 men, it was the longest and tallest viaduct in the world. While its purpose was to extend train access across the valley, allowing transport of raw materials, it held popularity as a tourist attraction. People described taking open train cars across it as "the closest thing to flying". Remember, planes did not exist then, nor would they for quite some time.
As riding is often like flying for me, I can understand their exhilaration.
In 2003, a strong storm ripped through this valley, pulling up foundations and destroying most of the bridge. The remains are preserved as a reminder of such an achievement, and you can walk out on it to get a feel of what it was like to ride across the span in long past history.



You can even stand on glass panels and look straight down to the ground.

Walking out on this structure was an unexpected thrill, as you really do feel high up and exposed.

The cold rain that had hunted me for days finally found me in this place, and I decided it was time to get moving. While I was at the bridge, a wedding was being set up. They picked a bad day for it.

It's over seven hours ride from the Kinzua Bridge State Park, to the Beech Fork campground outside of Huntington, and the rain poured almost the entire way. My frogg toggs couldn't keep up, nor could my ultra waterproof winter gauntlets, and I was soaked through by the end of the day. My Forma Adventure Boots laugh at rain, though, so at least my feet were dry and warm to the last (love those boots).
Regardless of the rain, I was happy to be making good time on a huge leap down the country, through a region I'd never seen before.
West Virginia hill country is like the shire, or something. I had no idea it was so beautiful, though there were scant places to stop for a photo.


People talk a lot of trash about Huntington, but everyone I met there was uncannily jovial and kind. It's a beautiful town, though my friend just had her phone mounts stolen off the bike outside of a bar there, so they lose some brownie points for that.
Arriving at the Beech Fork campground after 11PM, I was shocked to be greeted at the gate by three upbeat rangers, happy to help me find a good camping spot, direct me to showers, and assure me they would be on duty all night to keep the area safe. In my whole trip, I've never seen a state campground so well attended and appointed. Showers were awesome here, by the way. After a mentally straining day riding through the rain, getting lost in Huntington, and the distance I had come, this was a welcome oasis.

----------------------------
Falling asleep in wet conditions, I awoke to the all-encompassing warmth of brilliant sunshine. With an easy five and a half hour ride to Tellico Plains Tennessee ahead of me, and the well-appointed Hunt's Lodge Motorcycle Campground that night, I was in great spirits.
Mother Nature christened this journey, as well, with a butterfly on my helmet, and a red cardinal perched on my right mirror (barely seen in the second picture). Orange to orange, red to red.


I spent a glorious day riding through the sunny countryside of Kentucky, and Tennessee. It was a pretty boring ride, but at least it was warm and dry.
Arriving at Hunt's Lodge just before sunset, I settled in to do proper laundry (not in a sink), enjoy hot showers (best I had on the trip so far), and relax for a couple days.



If you visit Tail of the Dragon, I cannot recommend Hunt's Lodge enough. The owners are long distance riders, and most people camping there were incredible riders on their own journeys. They really have thought of everything, and everything is free for the use, including cans of earplugs, laundry, and coolers. All they ask is for donations in the tip jar to help keep things going. Camping was the cheapest I saw all trip by a large margin, at $10 per night. I loved it, and the owners even loaned me a large wrench when my axle nut was stuck.
http://www.huntslodge.com/

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
The next morning is where things got amazing. After a quick breakfast, I headed up the Cherohala Skyway from Tellico Plains, towards the tail of the dragon. The skyway is my favorite run of the area. Long sweepers and stunning views the whole way, and usually empty. Forty minutes of fun, right there.


Arriving at the Dragon, finding it packed, I did a run to the dam overlook, and stopped to figure out where I would go next. It was at this overlook that I met someone who would shift the rest of my trip for the better in ways I couldn't have imagined.
Looking across at the mass of parked Harleys, I see a midnight blue SV650 nestled in the middle. I have a soft spot for those things, and rarely see them, so I went over to have a look. It was set up very nicely, with luggage as if for long distance riding. Minnesota plates. What stopped me short was the SuperTrapp exhaust. I've never seen one in person, and an SV is the last thing I expected to find it on.
Kneeling down for a closer look, I hear a quiet inquisitive, "What do you see?" from behind me. Looking up, I see a woman, the bikes owner, with a smile and curious look. We got to talking about her bike, my old SV, the modifications her bike had, and our respective month long trips, instantly hitting it off. After years of riding various cruisers, it was her first bike that could corner or put down power like this, and she was ecstatic.
That SV is one of the best sounding bikes I've ever heard in my life. Like a cammed out muscle car.
Meeting again at the Dragon Store, where I needed caffeine and stickers, we spent the rest of the day riding together. As she had to make it into Georgia, and knew nothing about the region, I got to play tour guide, showing her the best roads, including the Skyway, and a waterfall off the beaten track, to boot.

While on the skyway everything stopped for a fallen rider, unfortunately. I've never seen someone medivac'd, and a large bike of some type had target fixated in one of the corners, right into a stone wall. A good reminder for me to err on the side of caution. (SV on the left, my Ninjette on the right)


The rest of the Skyway was incredible, and she got a shot I'm pretty happy with.


Immediately after that photo was taken, and elderly British couple pulled off the road and started chatting us up. Turns out, they both own limited addition (like 1 of 50) ST1300 Pan European motorcycles, and have done a staggering amount of travel. Seeing us ATGATT, he was happy to strike up a conversation with "serious riders", and we talked about the differences in bike cultures and regulations between our countries.

It was here that I got the greatest gift of knowledge I've had in ages: how to take a proper line through the corners, and vanishing points. Even when I was into cars, I never figured out how to take a proper solid line through a corner. I can corner great, sure, on bike or car, but have a bad habit of leaving my head in the oncoming lane, or coming in to hot. I eagerly listened to his instruction, and began practicing it immediately. Great people.

After a dinner at KramBonz, my Minnesota friend and I parted ways, and I headed back to camp to spend the night drinking and chatting with the other riders, hearing their stories.

---------

When I find a nice place on the road, I'll sometimes just stay there a few days. Like Miami, the Tellico Plains area is loaded with great riding and scenery. After the British couple absolutely schooled me the day before on how to corner properly, I devoted my day to holding back and focusing on making the proper line through the corners. (Towards the end of the day, it all finally clicked, and I was taking corners faster than ever, and smooth as glass. Mind blown.)
Weather was great, and I took this off of the Foothills Parkway, near the Dragon.

The Dragon itself was packed and dangerous, as usual. I saw more than one sad rider waiting for their bike to get towed up the cliff. I got stuck behind some snail's pace new striples, riders acting hard and cornering soft.
A line of them, brand new shiny plates and gear, parking it in corners, never pulling off for me, showboating the whole thing. Every corner they took that had a camera they would pose up and crawl through, while I came in right behind them, one hand on the bars, bored as all get out.
Seriously:


nsaP, imitation is the greatest form of flattery.

I was overeager to go fast, at this point, so I aborted my next run into the Dragon halfway. I could feel an off coming, and cooler heads prevailed.

This is apparently a filming location for The Fugitive, but I'm not a Dam expert, you know?


Just past the turn from 129 to the Cherohala Skyway, but before Robinsville, keep look for this stand. On a hot day of riding, it was a welcome stop. They have a dairy free, all natural, made from fruit, soft serve type dessert. The Pineapple tastes like the best pina colada, and the grape like grape soda. Definitely worth the trip to try it, if you are in the area.


I spent one final night at Hunt's Lodge. That place is a true riders Shangri La, and I look forward to going back. You ride all day, come back in the evening, and do any maintenance among experienced riders doing the same. Then, everyone settles I'm the common area, drinks beer, and swaps stories and jokes around the rest of the night. It's an absolute riot. That night, a motorcycle mechanic staying there, and an experienced long distance rider, sorted out my center stand chain rub issue in a way I would have never considered. Now I'm good to go for thousands more miles (though my chain is currently worn out and will be replaced ASAP).

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
This is great! :)

ADINSX
Sep 9, 2003

Wanna run with my crew huh? Rule cyberspace and crunch numbers like I do?

Really enjoying this thread

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Thanks for the interest! I'll have the rest of it written up this weekend, but this week has held a lot more pressing matters.

I'm just really happy that you are all enjoying it and Witnessing Me.

--------Small update-----------
Woke up early the next day, my final day in Tellico Plains, to catch breakfast at the hole in the wall built in an old gas station. Regretfully, I don't remember the name of this place. Biscuits were delicious, and company even better.
Afterwards, I took a ride with a really cool couple (one of which was the motorcycle mechanic that helped me), with their beautiful pair of FZ-09's. We enjoyed the twisties, and took a trip over to the Ocoee Whitewater Center. This man made rapid run was created for the 1996 Olympic Games, and very interesting to see. The rapids were not running, so we could walk out on the rocks to the middle of it.


Shortly after, we mistakenly went down some very rough fire roads in search of an elusive waterfall. The road looks flat here, but most of it was very rutted and full of large rocks. Being used to taking the sumo off road, I loved it. It was more stressful for the others on their shiny expensive bikes, though.

Following this, I packed up and headed to Atlanta for the night, preparing to meet with my new Minnesota riding buddy to head down to the beach the next day.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Coydog posted:

Thanks for the interest! I'll have the rest of it written up this weekend, but this week has held a lot more pressing matters.

I'm just really happy that you are all enjoying it and Witnessing Me.

--------Small update-----------
Woke up early the next day, my final day in Tellico Plains, to catch breakfast at the hole in the wall built in an old gas station. Regretfully, I don't remember the name of this place. Biscuits were delicious, and company even better.
Afterwards, I took a ride with a really cool couple (one of which was the motorcycle mechanic that helped me), with their beautiful pair of FZ-09's. We enjoyed the twisties, and took a trip over to the Ocoee Whitewater Center. This man made rapid run was created for the 1996 Olympic Games, and very interesting to see. The rapids were not running, so we could walk out on the rocks to the middle of it.


Shortly after, we mistakenly went down some very rough fire roads in search of an elusive waterfall. The road looks flat here, but most of it was very rutted and full of large rocks. Being used to taking the sumo off road, I loved it. It was more stressful for the others on their shiny expensive bikes, though.

Following this, I packed up and headed to Atlanta for the night, preparing to meet with my new Minnesota riding buddy to head down to the beach the next day.

Tellico Cafe?

loving love that place. Had a cup of coffee and some fried green tomato soup before setting off to light up the Dragon with my dad and brother last November. Was a great trip.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
I'm almost certain that is the place! It was mostly a kind of empty country store, with tables at the back, and lots of old timers chilling. Also, exactly the kind of place you would find fried green tomatos.

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008
I just got back from a 2+ hour, 90-mile ride on the same bike as you. My rear end and wrists hurt, and my hands are buzzy as hell.

You are a beast, guy. More power to you.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
I have no idea how you managed to start in that seat for anything longer than 3 hours at a time. Kudos to you Sir Ironbutt

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Meeting up with Minnesota and her glorious SV in south GA, we continued down to the Hostel in the Forest in Brunswick. I'd intended to just spend a night or two there, as a symbolic and relaxed trip end in the same place I'd spent my first night. Really, it's kind of amazing to think back on that first day/night of the trip, and how much I've learned and done since. It seems like so long ago.
There is about a quarter to a half mile of rutted and debris covered road to the parking lot of the hostel. We had a lot of fun on that.

One of the treehouses we stayed in. It was really amazing.

One night turned to three, as the hostel is such a relaxing atmosphere detached from the world. On top of that, it's 20 minutes ride from some nice public beaches, and has its own very nice lake for swimming. Cellphones are not permitted, though, so I left mine turned off and stowed away the entire time. No more pictures here.
Planning a day at a time, we left Brunswick and headed up to northern GA, my playground, and I got to show her our amazing roads and scenery.
Not before switching bikes, though. BRAAAAAP!

As it was Memorial Day, all of the motorcycle campgrounds and cabins in the area we planned to stay at were shut down. So we terrorized the twisties a bunch, before heading to a nice hotel in Helen, GA.


The next morning, we dipped over to an art museum consisting of only pieces made from or using gourds. http://www.gourdplace.com/ There were quite a lot of wacky and intricate pieces there, including some beautiful pottery pieces.
All in all, I'd say I had a really gourd time!

With both breakfast and coffee lacking from our day thus far, we headed to the one horse town of Sautee nearby. There, we discovered my new favorite place to eat up in the Helen, GA, area.
http://sweetwatercoffeehouse.com/swch/home.php
I was expecting the normal "meh" coffeehouse food fare, and got instead some mindblowing hot sandwiches, coffee that could double as race fuel, and a green smoothie that everyone must order if they make it there. In addition, there was a guitarist strumming on the porch, adding a nice mountain atmosphere to the whole place.
While we were there, a downpour began, so we decided to wait it out at such a nice oasis.


My friend 'sota had never heard of Asheville, somehow, so of course I had to take her that way. Curved and scenic backroads from Helen to Asheville, with a fair bit of rain, saw us to our lodging that night.

We spent a few days in Asheville, and I was happy to get a bike up that way. Many years ago I occasionally visited friends who lived there, and have fond memories of the nice roads I found. Ever since I got a bike, I've wanted to try those same roads.
Now I could! (part of this road was closed, so I took the opportunity for a photo op)


She hadn't had a chance to do any of the Blue Ridge Parkway, either, so we spent an afternoon running from Asheville northward. The weather was much nicer than when I went through a few weeks earlier, and I'm glad I got a second chance on it.


At a stop at Mt. Mitchell for lunch and to wait out some rain.

Hearing these two bikes go flat out through the long stone tunnels is a symphony for the soul.


-------------
On the final day, saying goodbye to 'sota was one of the hardest parts of my trip. She was a safe and experienced rider, and an awesome traveling companion. Regardless, I my first class of the semester started that evening, and I had to finally end my journey. Leaving Asheville late, however, I met both traffic and bad weather long enough to put me way behind schedule.
On this final leg home, my luck with law enforcement finally ran out. I was pulled over twice in hidden speed traps. Once for 74 in a 35/45, the other for 92 in a 65. Both were kind to me, and gave me minimal citations for things unrelated to the speed. I think they were taken off guard when I told them I was "late for class in Atlanta", and granted me leniency.
Close to Atlanta, I was playing a balancing act of speed verses MPG, and got into class 6 minutes before it ended. Just in time to sign the roll, with less than 10 miles of gas left in the bike.

My watch has ended.

karms
Jan 22, 2006

by Nyc_Tattoo
Yam Slacker

Coydog posted:


One of the treehouses we stayed in. It was really amazing.


:huh:

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Treehous Rulz : NO GIRLZ AHLOWD!

TheNothingNew posted:

I just got back from a 2+ hour, 90-mile ride on the same bike as you. My rear end and wrists hurt, and my hands are buzzy as hell.

You are a beast, guy. More power to you.


Nitrox posted:

I have no idea how you managed to start in that seat for anything longer than 3 hours at a time. Kudos to you Sir Ironbutt

That's really funny, and thank you! Really, I felt like the ninja 250 ergos fit me like a glove. That helps a lot. Hand buzzing went away after the first week I owned the bike, but the seat does get a bit trying after 300 miles or so in one stretch. The seat was less comfortable at 20+k at the end of the month than it was at 14k at the beginning. I plan to get a better seat ASAP, as I think I'll do more long trips on this bike in the very near future.

I really have to hand it to the EX250, though. Prior to this I thought I needed a strom or some other bike to make a long trip, but it turns out the ninjette is a perfect tourer. I know I have a really soft spot for this bike, so am biased, but I was never not impressed with it. Loaded down with gas and luggage, it could ride into a headwind on the highway at 85mph, with plenty of roll on power left for quick Semi passes, and would do that all day every day. I attribute this to it's aerodynamics, and how well maintained it is. The 4.8 gallon tank, coupled with the 71-75mpg I was seeing for much of the trip, means that you only have to fill up once a day, or whenever you feel like it. I never once worried about gas, even when I was low on gas and my wallet was gone.

The little sportbike handled all sorts of weather and terrain, including nasty fire roads, and vast temperature changes overnight. It kept humming along no matter what I tossed at it, or how I rode it. Even better for a tourer, it is scooter quiet when I want it to be, but a thrilling banshee when I want to go fast. Best of both worlds.

Sitting on the bike for so long, you think a lot about your gear or parts, and I want to just list a few of the good and bad. Overall, the equipment I picked up for this trip paid off in spades, and I really loved it.
Gear:
-Giant Loop Tillamook dry bag- This 38 liter bag never failed to impress. It held everything but my tent, for the entire month. Opening at either end, I could keep tools at the "bottom" for quick access, and layer organize the rest. Packing up each day was a breeze as you could just stuff things back in the bag, and then toss that on the bike. It never leaked once, and always made my life easier.
-Mighty Plugs- http://earplugsonline.com/ I was on the fence with these until the first time I used them. My 3M foam plugs don't come close to how protective these are, and they always stayed put the entire trip. I gifted my unused pair to 'sota, and plan on picking up more ASAP. They really are the best protecting, by a huge margin.
-Shure SE215-K Sound Isolating Earphones- As ear protection, they work better than 3M foam plugs, as earbuds, they made the long miles so much more enjoyable, while not blocking out important road noises. I avoided these for years, and they are a pain to put in each time, but they are solid gold once you do.
-Forma Adventure Low Boots- https://www.formabootsusa.com/products/adventure-low Jesus, these things are amazing. Not just the most comfortable riding shoes I've ever worn, but the most comfortable **shoes** I've ever worn. My feet were always warm, dry, and comfortable. These were the only shoes I brought other than my sandals, and I did a ton of walking around in them (and dancing!). Never once did I have any discomfort, sore feet, shin splints, etc. Oh, and they look completely legit awesome.
-Frogg Toggs- Ugh. This cheap rainsuit did it's job, packed small, and I didn't feel bad about throwing it away after. But I hated every minute using it. In day long rain, it failed and let all the rain through eventually. Soaking me. The pants ripped getting on the bike, and didn't extend far enough to protect parts of my socks. One of my biggest regrets this trip was not getting the Arc Battle Born touring suit that my ADV friends recommended. I'd have been warmer and drier with less hassle.
-Moto Skiveez Socks- http://motoskiveez.com/shop-page/compression-riding-sock-with-aloe/ Holy cow you guys get these socks. I had two pair of these, plus a pair of thorlos, for the entire trip. I never touched the thorlos. I'm the kind of person who always has to have clean socks, so I was pretty astonished that I could wear these a couple days in a row with zero smell, and they always felt fresh. Cycling between pairs, washing the other, really simplified things for me. Incredibly comfortable, and worth the exorbitant price.
-AFX FX-41 DS Hi-Vis Helmet- http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/afx-fx-41-ds-hi-vis-helmet Still my favorite helmet, and the super wide field of view is perfect for taking in the scenery. Flip down visor is a lifesaver, and I'll never be without one.
-Eureka Spitfire 1- I love this tent. It's roomy enough to spend a lot of time in, and enjoy it. I could fit myself, my gear, and most of my stuff, inside with plenty of room left over to relax. It's big enough inside that you can pack up your bag and pad without leaving the tent. Bone dry in a heavy downpour, with plenty of venting so the inside never gets condensation. Room for two pairs of shoes in the vestibule, plus your dry bag, plus room to hang your wet raingear on a tentpole. Sets up in minutes.
-rok Straps- Duh.

Bike:
-Laminar Lip- http://www.laminarlip.com/ Unlike other windscreens I've tried, this one actually works. Most screens take pain from one area, and double it in another. The laminar lip just left me in a pocket of protection, and didn't noticeably increase pressure on my head. It cut wind noise down significantly, too.
-2008+ Ninja 250r rear suspension- Gotta love a $49 shipped upgrade that improves so much. At it's lowest setting, it was still much stiffer with almost no sag compared to stock. I did this to accomodate the luggage and stuff that I'd have on the bike, and it really paid off. The rear was planted and stable, no matter how much I loaded it down, or what terrain I was riding across. I think this made for a more comfortable ride, too. Fully loaded, I was scraping pegs in corners, and the bike felt just about the same as it did with no luggage.

Coydog fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jun 12, 2016

Eaterofpoptarts
Oct 7, 2013
Just finished this, excellent read. As I've already told you PLEASE GO ON MORE ADVENTURES BECAUSE YOUR STORY TELLING IS EXCELLENT AND I WANT TO DO THIS EFFIN A.



Seriously though, maybe a trip to MN is in order? :allears:

Also when I get my bike we need to ride!

bsamu
Mar 11, 2006

Great trip report! It's definitely making me second guess our decision to sell our ex250 at the end of the year.

bsamu fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Jun 15, 2016

hot sauce
Jan 13, 2005

Grimey Drawer
Just finished the last part. Excellent thread man :five:

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Trip of a lifetime. I LOL'd when I read "an easy 5 hour ride".

kenny powerzzz
Jan 20, 2010
I go to March Moto Madness every year in Tellico plains. It's by far my favorite area to ride.

Eaterofpoptarts
Oct 7, 2013
So I'm about 95% sure I just saw you. We're you at the QT off Roswell road? If not there's someone copying your style. If so, I was the guy wearing the UGA shirt who said "Nice Bike" filling up next to you.

500excf type r
Mar 7, 2013

I'm as annoying as the high-pitched whine of my motorcycle, desperately compensating for the lack of substance in my life.
drat bro maybe get his digits

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib

bsamu posted:

Great trip report! It's definitely making me second guess our decision to sell our ex250 at the end of the year.

Don't do it. It's such a cheap and cheerful bike I'm trapped into keeping mine forever.

hot sauce posted:

Just finished the last part. Excellent thread man :five:

Thanks! I really appreciate your reading it.

Gorson posted:

Trip of a lifetime. I LOL'd when I read "an easy 5 hour ride".

I need a corbin so I can say "an easy ten hour ride".

kenny powerzzz posted:

I go to March Moto Madness every year in Tellico plains. It's by far my favorite area to ride.

It's a stunning area. I need to camp up there more often.

Eaterofpoptarts posted:

PLEASE GO ON MORE ADVENTURES BECAUSE YOUR STORY TELLING IS EXCELLENT

That's a huge compliment, thank you! Get a bike so I can show you our awesome mountain roads.

Eaterofpoptarts posted:

So I'm about 95% sure I just saw you. We're you at the QT off Roswell road? If not there's someone copying your style. If so, I was the guy wearing the UGA shirt who said "Nice Bike" filling up next to you.

HOLY poo poo.
edit- nice car, btw.

EX250 Type R posted:

drat bro maybe get his digits

1-800-94-JENNY

Coydog fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jun 22, 2016

Eaterofpoptarts
Oct 7, 2013

Coydog posted:


HOLY poo poo.
edit- nice car, btw.


1-800-94-JENNY

Haha, didn't want to be a creeper but it seemed like I turned out to be one anyway.

I recognized the bike first, then the helmet, then the boots you kept praising. Not my fault you have a distinct style. I didn't wanna walk up and be like "HEY WHATS UP COYDOG FROM CA ITS ME EATEROFPOPTARTS LAWL", especially if I was wrong. Next time though.... :gary:

Thanks for the compliment but it belongs to my boss not me, she had me out running errands and stuff with it. I drive a beat up old pickup truck.

I saved your number, expect a text from 800-588-2300, Empire!

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib

Eaterofpoptarts posted:

Haha, didn't want to be a creeper but it seemed like I turned out to be one anyway.

Not at all, man. I appreciate the etiquette of not trying to chat me up while I'm getting gas. You are impressively observant, though, to recognize all that. PM me if I can help in your bike search or process. You gotta get on two wheels asap.

Token picture taken this spring on my mexico tour, in Jalisco. The bridge behind was recent, and a huge help to the villages in the area. Prior to that, any trips for supplies or travel required a day long journey down and back up the crevasse.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Great thread! One hell of a trip.

I lost my wallet a couple weeks ago and felt absolutely sick... for about 5 minutes until someone turned it in with absolutely everything intact - even the $400 in cash I had in it.

I can't imagine the feeling being 1000 miles from home on a quasi holiday and losing it. I'd probably feel physically ill. You handled it well and glad it seemed to work out. Anyone ever get it back to you? I presume not.

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Corrupt Cypher
Jul 20, 2006
Great trip report man! A few years ago I did Toronto, ON -> St. Anthony, NFLD two up on my ZZR250. You can definitely get creative with the luggage and I never found us down on power. Not much room for sleeping bags though...

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