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Valt posted:Yah that is what I am going to do on Monday. Does it not have starter shims? Most chevys do And I imagine its not to new of a technology to maybe have been used on the starter. If not just measure the starter and cut some sheet metal shims.
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Nov 27, 2016 23:53
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clam ache posted:Does it not have starter shims? Most chevys do And I imagine its not to new of a technology to maybe have been used on the starter. If not just measure the starter and cut some sheet metal shims. I bought shims and tried to shim it but got the same result.
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Nov 28, 2016 00:18
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No shims on that old boy. I just went through/still dealing with 6 volt fun and Im racking my brain right now. Nothing yet but Ive got this thread in my mind.
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Nov 28, 2016 00:20
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shy boy from chess club posted:No shims on that old boy. I just went through/still dealing with 6 volt fun and Im racking my brain right now. Nothing yet but Ive got this thread in my mind. It really sucks because I have isolated it to the starter at least. But I don't know what the solution is.
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Nov 28, 2016 01:33
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So what the starter place told me is that it is the correct pinion. However is most likely very tight because it's new. They are going to try and find my old pinion as it has some play in it which would make it work.
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Nov 30, 2016 03:41
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Unsure if this has already been mentioned, but: - don't put an ammeter inline with a starter unless it's capable of measuring several HUNDRED amps DC, else you will explode it or set it on fire - measuring resistance on starter wiring (aside from the solenoid triggers, etc) with a regular ohm-meter is useless. Even a hundredth of an ohm of resistance in that circuit will result in several volts drop when the starter is trying to turn, and regular ohm-meters are inaccurate below a few ohms generally (in my experience) even if they read zero when the leads are touched together. Most read 0.2 or 0.4 or so ohms with the inputs shorted, and you're hunting thousandths or hundredths of an ohm, so you're basically trying to measure inches with your trip odometer. If you want to find the trouble spot without spending a lot of money on a high current DC ammeter or a 4-wire Kelvin-style milliohmmeter, usually it's best to have someone else smash the button while you use your meter set to DC volts to find the wiring connection, piece of wire, or solenoid that has the largest voltage drop across it, then investigate further from there. For instance put one probe on the top of the negative battery stud and the other as far down the battery cable's clamp as you can reach, if you measure more voltage than expected, there's your problem. Or one probe on the top of a starter contactor stud and the other on the ring terminal that is bolted to it, or measure the voltage from that contactor stud to the battery lug it's connected to. e: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-8/kelvin-resistance-measurement/ and this is why you want to do it the backyard way instead of buying the equipment to actually measure this kind of low resistance connection accurately, look at those pricetags...  https://www.grainger.com/category/milli-micro-ohm-meters/electrical-power-testing/test-instruments/ecatalog/N-b9s
kastein fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 18:54
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kastein posted:Unsure if this has already been mentioned, but: All of that makes sense. Electrical is not the issue here, what ever the problem is mechanical with the pinion. The starter shop let me know they found a old core and pulled a used pinion off of that one.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:02
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So I brought the car to the shop down the street yesterday. He basically told he has this exact problem with every rebuilt 6 volt starter he has gotten locally. So he just gets them from some place online now. So I brought it back to the starter place and told them what was going on. They basically told me to bring the car to them. So I brought it to them and the old guy touched a wire to the positive on the battery and the switch post on the solenoid. It just clicked as it had been doing. At that point he told me the starter was bad. So they have it again and I am supposed to get it back on Monday. The saga continues!
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Dec 2, 2016 18:50
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Good luck, hope it gets fixed.
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Dec 2, 2016 19:22
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So the shop replaced the solenoid with a old stock one and now it works without issue. So awesome waste of roughly two weeks of my time.
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Dec 7, 2016 03:29
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Jesus, that blows. Glad it's running again.
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Dec 7, 2016 03:40
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Well that's good news! Sucks that a brand new starter had to be 'fixed' with old parts, but at least you're rolling again.
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Dec 7, 2016 03:53
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That's a story I've heard far too many times - freshly rebuilt part doesn't actually work. Sorry for your frustrations, glad you've worked it out. Sweet car. Love the thread.
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Dec 7, 2016 03:55
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Oh well it's not like it's a car I drive all of the time. But we didn't get to take it out on thanksgiving when it was beautiful out. Which really bummed me out as that's what I got the car for really. It's great for cruising on nice days, if I had to drive actually I would certainly have a bad time with it.
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Dec 7, 2016 04:09
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So a fun new problem has arisen. Apparently the timing chain cover has started to leak a little. It tosses oil all over under the hood. I figured that it had a harmonic balancer that just came off like a sbc. But it has something fun on the harmonic balancer. It has a spot to put a bar in and turn the motor over to start it, think like model a kind of thing. I will get a picture of it when I take the radiator out. But I am sure it's going to be tons of fun to take apart.
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Dec 15, 2016 22:51
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To keep up on this thread what I found out was that the water pump was leaking out of its shaft. This is apparently somewhat common with these older water pumps. So I took the pump off and replaced it and while I was doing that I replaced the belt and flushed the radiator. When I put everything back together it started to overheat even while driving. So I removed the thermostat just to see if that would do anything. After removing the thermostat it runs just fine! In other more exciting news I lowered the car. I cut two coils out of the front and installed 3" lowering blocks in the back. This brings the whole car down about 3", it makes a HUGE difference.  
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Feb 2, 2017 15:13
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Valt posted:To keep up on this thread what I found out was that the water pump was leaking out of its shaft. This is apparently somewhat common with these older water pumps. So I took the pump off and replaced it and while I was doing that I replaced the belt and flushed the radiator. When I put everything back together it started to overheat even while driving. So I removed the thermostat just to see if that would do anything. After removing the thermostat it runs just fine! Could have trapped an air bubble in the system that you relieved when you removed the thermostat. I doubt it would have failed exactly at the same time as you had the system open, unless maybe it got jammed up from crud that you flushed out of the radiator. Looks good low, I'd even go a little farther in the front. Looks like it's maybe half an inch higher in front?
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Feb 3, 2017 01:05
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Looks awesome lowered like that - I really love these cars low. Here's a word of warning, next time the front of the engine is apart, take a minute and remove the timing gear cover and give a quick look at the timing gears. From the factory the cam gear was made of a fibrous type material, they have a tendency to let go after years of sitting and "waking up" - you can easily, quickly and cheaply replace that gear with a aluminum one which will save you from blowing your head, bending valves/rods and blowing your motor. Most of my friends have gotten very lucky and only bent push rods, but a few have lost cams, and had some serious valve vs. piston contact About the starter, I've had the stock 6v starter in my 48 roadmaster that was converted to 12v - works fine still to this day, I just try not to crank a lot.
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Feb 7, 2017 07:20
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LobsterboyX posted:Looks awesome lowered like that - I really love these cars low. So a question, I looked into removing the timing cover but ended up not needing to due the issue being the water pump. My car has a cammed bolt that holds the pulley onto the crankshaft. This was used for a crank starter. How do I get it off, is there some special trick to it? As far as the starter goes I plan on just dealing with it at this point until I put the other motor in. At that point I will just convert everything to 12 volt. I might try a heat shield for the starter and solenoid as a band aid. Also here is a better side shot of the car. I replaced the front shocks as the drivers side wasn't even connected. 
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Feb 12, 2017 20:26
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Just a teaser here but I dropped the car off at a detail shop and they are buffing the paint
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Feb 17, 2017 20:37
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Make sure they don't leave holograms like the ones next to the badge.
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Feb 18, 2017 12:11
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So I got the car back from being buffed and it a absolutely huge difference. It is obviously not perfect but its a far cry from what it was.   
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Feb 21, 2017 05:31
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That looks very good, like a show car. Did the detail guys have a lot of experience working with paints that old?
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Feb 21, 2017 05:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That looks very good, like a show car. Did the detail guys have a lot of experience working with paints that old? They had a guy who worked on older stuff. But that is not the original paint. I do believe it is a lacquer job and not a normal two part paint job.
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Feb 21, 2017 05:56
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I like your chauffer.
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Feb 21, 2017 09:55
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So once again I am having starter issues. It has been either not starting when hot again or very hard to start. Though this morning it won't start at all. I just get a click, I am going to get the battery checked but I am sure it's fine. I put a multimeter on it and it had 6.5 volts. If the battery is fine I am stuck with two options. Replace the starter with a rebuild from one of the 6 volt car sites. Or start doing the 12 volt conversion now. I had been waiting on the 12 volt conversion until I put the v8 in. But I might just need to do it now.
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Feb 26, 2017 18:41
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Check your grounds, on 6v cars I like to double ground them, run one ground to the frame the other to the engine and make sure the body strap grounds are in good shape and clean. Find a shop that does starter rebuilding and have them go to town. Switching from 6 to 12 isnt hard on these cars, its as easy as changing the bulbs, battery and coil. Just check for any bare wires - I'd be more concerned about the distributor, which is the early type where the whole body of the distributor moves with the advance. to answer your question from earlier, - id have to see a photo of the thing to tell you how to remove it, but IIRC they are only pressed on with a woodruf key to keep it from spinning- if what your describing is what I think it is, you only have to remove the two bolts and get a puller in there, you have to find something that will fit inside the hand crank hole to get a good pull
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Feb 28, 2017 15:06
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LobsterboyX posted:Check your grounds, on 6v cars I like to double ground them, run one ground to the frame the other to the engine and make sure the body strap grounds are in good shape and clean. Find a shop that does starter rebuilding and have them go to town. Switching from 6 to 12 isnt hard on these cars, its as easy as changing the bulbs, battery and coil. Just check for any bare wires - I'd be more concerned about the distributor, which is the early type where the whole body of the distributor moves with the advance. to answer your question from earlier, - id have to see a photo of the thing to tell you how to remove it, but IIRC they are only pressed on with a woodruf key to keep it from spinning- if what your describing is what I think it is, you only have to remove the two bolts and get a puller in there, you have to find something that will fit inside the hand crank hole to get a good pull Yah as far as the grounds go it's good. Both the positive and negative cables are big rear end welding cable. I already had a local shop rebuild the starter and put a new solenoid on it but it's still doing this. At this point I am just going to get a rebuilt unit from chevs of the 40s or something. I would just start getting ready for the V8 swap but I need to find a adapter for the transmission. The 49' uses some kind of unicorn 3 speed that has a torque tube instead of a drive shaft. It is apparently not easy to find adapters for it. Lobsterboy I have read that is difficult to get the original radio to work with the 12 volt setup. I really want to use the original radio for it as I have it. Do you know anything about that?
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Feb 28, 2017 16:39
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Valt posted:Yah as far as the grounds go it's good. Both the positive and negative cables are big rear end welding cable. I already had a local shop rebuild the starter and put a new solenoid on it but it's still doing this. At this point I am just going to get a rebuilt unit from chevs of the 40s or something. But of course! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reducer-Regulator-12-VOLTS-to-6-VOLTS-20-AMPS-/132110436353?hash=item1ec2654801:g:i~cAAOSwDNdVx6qR I purchased one of these suckers and it works great - I had my original radio rebuilt in my 48 with an added aux-in so that I can listen to my phone - the guy has recently been adding blue tooth recievers as well - The transmission in that car is no unicorn, its pretty standard all the way up until 55, as is the torque tube - if you want to change it, you also have to swap out your rear end for whatever flavor you desire. 55-57 fit perfectly and require no modification, they are open drive, also a lot of guys go with 9" fords which need some modification to fit. Later novas 68-76, as well as G-body rears area also a popular swap The rabbit hole runs deep with motor swaps on these cars, a lot of guys prefer to have the original and just swap in more modern 6's so as not to have to deal with the rear end issue
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Feb 28, 2017 22:11
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LobsterboyX posted:But of course! So I'm curious and I think I have asked you this before but who rebuilt your radio? Also another question, if people are swapping in newer sixes how are they mounting it to the trans? I know that the 60s era sixes use a SBC bellhousing. I really don't want to have to find a new trans and rear setup just to use a SBC. I am sure there is a way to get a adapter for it but so far I have not found a good solution.
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Mar 3, 2017 18:51
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