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Indiana_Krom posted:If the air cooled PC and water cooled PC had the same size radiators then yeah it would be the same. But pretty much the whole point of water cooling is that it doesn't have to be the same size. Since we use a pump to actively transport the heat away from the source, you can pretty much throw unlimited radiator space at it. For instance my custom loop has 700x38MM of high density fin packed radiators occupied by 5x 140MM fans that can push a theoretical 410 CFM through them. It is like 5 of the biggest 140MM heat pipe tower coolers you can buy packed into a single case. This can be taken to the logical extreme with external radiator towers. Pump the water out of the case to some giant cooling array that can fit as many radiators as your pump's head pressure can handle. This is how datacenter liquid cooling works, if I recall correctly? You also can't discount the thermal volume of water as well; part of the reason that we like to use coolant temperature sensors to control the fans is that the water in the loop adds additional thermal mass to the system, giving you more time between when you start producing heat and when you need to start radiating that heat into the environment to absorb more. This can cut down on how often your fans need to speed up and slow down, giving you a much smoother and consistent noise profile. Warmachine fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 16:41
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Warmachine posted:This can be taken to the logical extreme with external radiator towers. Pump the water out of the case to some giant cooling array that can fit as many radiators as your pump's head pressure can handle. This is how datacenter liquid cooling works, if I recall correctly? This is literally what I do. I've got a couple quick release fittings in a wall plate in my office and my radiator/pump setup is in another room. I run the front case fans at the lowest setting to make sure there's still airflow for the non watercooled parts, but the computer is functionally silent.
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Dec 14, 2023 19:39
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Nolgthorn posted:I've been sick all weekend and stayed in therefore behold: Oct 16 2022. My rig is still performing perfectly. I'm feeling nostalgic about how much fun it was to set this up and I've been itching for a reason to tear it apart and build it again. Unfortunately the cpu is awesome and there's no reason to replace it. The gpu is everything I could ever want but it's also one of the coolest running gpus on the market and there's no block for it. So everything's going great. 
Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 05:53
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Oh yeah, I almost completely rebuilt my PC last month, replaced everything but the 4090, mechanical drives, and the radiators: Now with 100% more unicorn vomit:  The coolant temp is actually down like 3-4C with the same radiators, I replaced the Noctua Chromax fans I was using on them with Arctic P14s, along with an array of P12s in the side panel and the two stock PWM 140 MM corsair fans as intakes (both radiators exhaust, the front 280 MM is a pull, the top 420 MM is push). I think the drop is because the new case just breathes so much better, since the overall thermal load isn't that different (still in the ~500-600w range). Still very impressed with the Arctic P14s and P12s, perhaps even quieter than the Cromax fans, huge effective PWM range and significantly higher top speed when I call for it without being any louder. Tying it all together with fan control; the main "coolant" curve is straight linear, everything is pulling from a temperature sensor I have screwed into one of the extra ports on the GPU block. Trigger is for the pump, which just goes straight from idle to full speed once the temp crosses the threshold. Hysteresis is as disabled as possible because the coolant does it better on its own naturally.  Spun off the old PC using my older GTX 1080 that still has its water block on, just grabbed another 420mm radiator off amazon for it and handed it down in my family. I also got one of those corsair leak tester devices; it is super handy. You just close up your loop dry, then use the pump to pressurize it to around 7-9 PSI and let it sit for 30-60 minutes, if it holds the pressure you know there are no leaks. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 13:31
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I'm very happy with the temperature and relative silence of my case since upgrading to water-cooling. Water cooling cost a lot but when paired with a thread ripper it just feels like it's necessary. The air cooling solutions are way too loud.
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Jan 10, 2024 02:57
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I’m not yet cool enough to have a custom loop, although I did have one at one point… but I do have an AIO. It’s a thermaltake 420mm and I have it hooked up to a 14900k. If anyone can help out with some questions I’d be grateful. Should I power the AIO pump using PWM or DC or it really doesn’t matter? The AIO has 3x140mm fans pushing air through the radiator. If I wanted some more performance, would adding fans on the back pulling air be advantageous? I’m using a completely open case… rack mounted in an open sided rack. Is this causing me huge issues? Should I be ducting the air away somehow? I have no idea how I’d manage that, but figured I’d ask since it’s far from a standard case. Using prime95, I can peg the cpu to where it will hit 100C. I can’t tell if it’s throttling very much or not but I’m just using hwmonitor. Any recommendations on better software for monitoring and control?
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Jan 10, 2024 07:11
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namlosh posted:I’m not yet cool enough to have a custom loop, although I did have one at one point… but I do have an AIO. It’s a thermaltake 420mm and I have it hooked up to a 14900k. If anyone can help out with some questions I’d be grateful. If there isn’t a dust filter over your intake or over the fans, your radiator is going to look absolutely filthy eventually. And the worst thing is that lint get stuck between the fans and the radiator so you got a really disassemble it to clean it. You need to either filter, the air coming into the computer or since that sounds like a really open set up you need to put filters over the fans that are pulling into the radiator. I have no advice about DC or PWM because I have a Corsair AIO and I just wire it up the way they say to do it and monitor it with their software. I have my fans staying at 35% until the water hits 35° then it ramps all the way to 100% fan at 40 C. I keep the pump on the highest setting.
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Jan 10, 2024 08:33
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namlosh posted:Should I power the AIO pump using PWM or DC or it really doesn’t matter? 99% certain you would use PWM.
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Jan 10, 2024 13:08
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Indiana_Krom posted:99% certain you would use PWM. spunkshui posted:<dust filter stuff that was a great idea> Thanks so much for the info. The AIO plugged right into a MoBo fan header labeled AIO_pump. Even the RGB had a connector on the motherboard… I feel dumb that I didn’t even consider installing software for the AIO. I’ll see if there’s any that might provide value
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Jan 12, 2024 14:22
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b73xG1HlFhY
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Apr 20, 2024 19:07
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Ive never really liked their products, but i had no idea how lovely of a company EK is.
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Apr 21, 2024 00:39
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I'm using an EK AIO, which makes me feel kinda bad, but I bought it months ago so well before this stuff came to light. That said, if they are having liquidity issues and ends up collapsing I am concerned about warranty.
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Apr 21, 2024 02:30
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ZombieCrew posted:Ive never really liked their products, but i had no idea how lovely of a company EK is. I've skirted around them with my one custom loop build a few years back, mostly due to my feelings that they were crazy overpriced because of their name. Ended up using some Bykski parts (3090 block and a combo CPU block/pump/res. Corsair for some decently priced radiators as well. Other than the GPU block install being a little tedious (not entirely their fault) + not great install doc, I've been pretty pleased with everything else.
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Apr 21, 2024 14:11
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Full cover GPU blocks are always pretty tedious, cut a boatload of pads for all the memory chips and VRMs then carefully arrange them, apply paste, line everything up, then install a dozen screws. It would be helpful if the various pads were pre-cut at a minimum, or even way better if they came already epoxied to the correct locations on the cold plate so you just pull the existing heat sink, clean the card up, paste the die, place it the block, and snug the screws. That and machining the block so all of the clearances are the same, not needing three different thickness pads arranged all around the card, if they can match tolerances with the cold plate of the original heat sink for just a paste or putty application, it can be done on a water block too. I've got a loop in my system now made almost entirely out of EK parts and it works fine, no complaints other than they are expensive (but it is such a niche market I don't see it ever being really affordable regardless of who is making it). However I won't buy from them again until I see a follow up article confirming they have fully paid all of their employees and suppliers plus booted out the people responsible for this mess. Although when things get this bad it usually results in the company failing and being liquidated so probably not a concern either way. They clearly made poor choices about what to manufacture in house and what to outsource, like about the only thing I would reasonably expect could be outsourced without trashing the margins is the various simple components like fittings and adapters, basically anything you can cut out in 2-3 minutes on a CNC lathe. And if you price competitively enough, every loop needs a bunch of fittings so the volume should be there to satisfy minimum orders. Unless you are completely stupid and chase the absolute lowest cost per part by booking like a 2 million dollar 9 spindle swiss lathe in some shop that can make each fitting in 5-7 seconds but the minimum order quantity is like 500,000 units to hit that low cost per unit number.
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Apr 21, 2024 14:54
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EKWB are consistently the best water cooling parts I've ever used over the past decade plus of custom loops. Shame the company is run by idiots who don't know what they're doing.
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Apr 22, 2024 22:05
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Looks like overspending among other things. I've never understood this as a business owner myself generally the single biggest cost is people. I would be very careful about how many different people I bring on to any project. But have noticed the opposite happening with larger businesses, they almost always bring on people even if they aren't really needed because it looks good on a company growth report or something. I'm sure there's a reason for it but it doesn't surprise me when those same businesses eventually have to fire everyone.
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Apr 23, 2024 05:07
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