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pocket pool
Aug 4, 2003

B U T T S

Bleak Gremlin
Problem description: I'm assembling a new gaming machine for a buddy and I'm having a problem. I believe the issue is a DOA PSU, but I wanted to double-check that I hadn't missed something. After I finished assembling the system I pressed the power switch and everything powers on VERY briefly (< 1 sec), shuts off and cannot be powered on again. It makes no system beeps when this occurs. The standby switch needs to be cycled before it will react to a press of the power button, again.

Attempted fixes: I removed everything from the case, disconnected everything except for the speaker and the CPU fan, same result. I connected a functioning PSU (from my computer) to the board and shorted the power switch header - CPU fan spins and stays on and the speaker beeps out the "no RAM" code. I connected a single case fan to the (suspected DOA) PSU and then used the test tool that EVGA included with the unit (essentially does the "paper clip trick"): The PSU and case fans spin and remain on but the PSU emits a perpetual "beeping" sound. (It didn't sound like coil whine to me, it was too loud.) I considered connecting the PSU to my computer, but I'm hesitant to hook a malfunctioning PSU up to my machine.

Recent changes: N/A

--

Operating system: N/A

System specs: PC Part Picker List

Location: USA

I have Googled and read the FAQ: Yes

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Arsten
Feb 18, 2003

It does sound like it's the power supply. To be sure, I'd assemble the new computer (without the PSU) and put in a known-good PSU to boot up to a live CD and play around for about an hour (surf the web/whatever strikes your fancy). If it's stable, I'd pull out the known good PSU and put in the bad PSU to see if it's still an issue. If it is, send that broken power source back.

(Also, check that the PSU you bought has more supplied power than the parts you bought. I've been dumb enough in the past to try to hook up a 400w PSU to 600w worth of equipment. :downs: )

pocket pool
Aug 4, 2003

B U T T S

Bleak Gremlin
Unfortunately, it'd be a pretty huge pain for me to sub in a known good PSU (I'd have to completely remove mine from my machine since I have the cables all tied up). So, I just had him start the RMA process and we'll see how that goes.

I'm pretty sure the size is good for his system (550W). One thing I thought was kind of odd was the cheapo PSU tester I have lit up appropriately when I plugged this unit in, so it must be an issue only under load? Weird all together.

Arsten
Feb 18, 2003

pocket pool posted:

Unfortunately, it'd be a pretty huge pain for me to sub in a known good PSU (I'd have to completely remove mine from my machine since I have the cables all tied up). So, I just had him start the RMA process and we'll see how that goes.

I'm pretty sure the size is good for his system (550W). One thing I thought was kind of odd was the cheapo PSU tester I have lit up appropriately when I plugged this unit in, so it must be an issue only under load? Weird all together.

Depending on the brand of "cheapo" PSU, it's not unheard of for it to be delivering "550 watts" to useless places, like too much power to the hard drive power connectors and not enough to places like a motherboard. It's also entirely possible that the "550W" sticker is complete crap, and it's actually a 300W PSU that was rebadged by a shady company. What brand is it?

Alternatively, if this is something you want to solve now and you have $100 that you can lose for a few days, you can go to a local computer store (Fry's, Microcenter, Best Buy, etc) and pick up a good PSU from a known manufacturer, like Asus, and use that for a few days to see if it's not a problem. If your friend is good with it, he can give you the cash and get a refund on the lovely PSU, but I understand that most people don't have an extra hundred bucks for that sort of thing.

pocket pool
Aug 4, 2003

B U T T S

Bleak Gremlin

Arsten posted:

Depending on the brand of "cheapo" PSU, it's not unheard of for it to be delivering "550 watts" to useless places, like too much power to the hard drive power connectors and not enough to places like a motherboard. It's also entirely possible that the "550W" sticker is complete crap, and it's actually a 300W PSU that was rebadged by a shady company. What brand is it?

Alternatively, if this is something you want to solve now and you have $100 that you can lose for a few days, you can go to a local computer store (Fry's, Microcenter, Best Buy, etc) and pick up a good PSU from a known manufacturer, like Asus, and use that for a few days to see if it's not a problem. If your friend is good with it, he can give you the cash and get a refund on the lovely PSU, but I understand that most people don't have an extra hundred bucks for that sort of thing.

After I got home my curiously surpassed my laziness so I hooked my PSU (Corsair TX750M) up to his system and was able to install Windows and run Heaven for a couple of hours, without problems.

The PSU we bought for his system decent quality (EVGA GS) so I wouldn't think that there'd be an issue with it delivering way below the advertised wattage or anything.

pocket pool fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Aug 30, 2016

Arsten
Feb 18, 2003

pocket pool posted:

After I got home my curiously surpassed my laziness so I hooked my PSU (Corsair TX750M) up to his system and was able to install Windows and run Heaven for a couple of hours, without problems.

The PSU we bought for his system decent quality (EVGA GS) so I wouldn't think that there'd be an issue with it delivering way below the advertised wattage or anything.

It's definitely the PSU, then.

All you can do is RMA and/or swap for another PSU brand. I don't have experience with EVGA PSUs, so I can't offer any insight on if they are crap or not.

HMS Boromir
Jul 16, 2011

by Lowtax
EVGA's PSUs come highly recommended, so it was just bad luck.

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Arsten
Feb 18, 2003

HMS Boromir posted:

EVGA's PSUs come highly recommended, so it was just bad luck.

Good to know that only their mouses are crap. :v:

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