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Since I've done a few track days, I really wanted to get into it a bit more seriously. I'm also very aware that cornering in general is the area that I need to improve on the most. I didn't want a large bike due to expenses, and I liked the idea of fiddling with a bike and turning it into a decent track machine. I'm also 6'4, so getting a 250/300 was really out of the question if only for leg room. Enter this little beast. It was a riding school machine, but I got it in great condition for less than I would pay for one that was mostly destroyed at auction=, and 12k km on the odo and fresh dunlop alpha 13s with a single day on them. First order of the day will be to change the oil and filter. I already gave it a good wash and cleaned and lubed the chain.     Only mechanical issue I can see is the rear brake that rubs at a certain point, but I don't think that would be too much of an issue from just puttering around. So basically I'll document the shift from lowly learner bike to (hopefully) cornering machine. I'm also not really an expert in mechanics, so hopefully I'll learn a few things along the way. First order of business is to change up the riding position. It's hilariously upright compared to my VFR. I've ordered new clip ons, rearsets, some engine covers in case I screw up, some adjustable levers, and a slip-on to get rid of the ugly standard one. Next priority I think will be getting some sort of race fairings installed, though the options are rather limited here in Sydney. Not sure I'll bother with a PC5, though a quickshifter might be nice given the shortish gear ratios. Might end up getting some headers from Arrow given the stock one looks heavy as hell and have a catalytic converter. After that I'll see about upgrading suspension. From online forums it seems you can make a GSXR750 shock fit nicely, which would be a decent cheapish upgrade. Fork internals might be more difficult. Is there something glaringly obvious I'm forgetting? I don't intend to race, so NSW track rules don't require tying all the bolts or changing the coolant to water (may do that eventually anyway).
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Feb 1, 2017 04:29
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 09:11 |
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Barnsy posted:STUFF Poke around a bit on UK and European websites for bits and bobs. The new WSBK "300" class allows the CBR500 and there will be folks making/selling specific "replica" parts for the 500.
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Feb 1, 2017 06:52
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Pick up axle sliders too for the front and rear. I'd find some track fairings, strip everything extraneous off the bike, upgrade the brake pads to some thing like ebc HH pads, bleed the fluid with RBF600. Quickshifters are fun but ultimately a bit of a toy. Figure out your gearing at your local track, as long as you're somewhere within 3k or so of redline in top gear at the fastest section on the track you'll be fine. If you never use 6th, you'll wanna gear down. Keep the heavy stock battery. Besides that, read twist of the wrist 2, make good use of your practice time, try and find some good instruction, and have fun! Edit: oh, and snag a brake lever protector, just in case.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:02
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Z3n posted:Pick up axle sliders too for the front and rear. I'd find some track fairings, strip everything extraneous off the bike, upgrade the brake pads to some thing like ebc HH pads, bleed the fluid with RBF600. Quickshifters are fun but ultimately a bit of a toy. Figure out your gearing at your local track, as long as you're somewhere within 3k or so of redline in top gear at the fastest section on the track you'll be fine. If you never use 6th, you'll wanna gear down. Keep the heavy stock battery. Axle sliders are a good idea, I'll add those to the list. Like I said, getting race fairings is going to be a challenge but it's the next thing on my list. There's a local suspension centre that does race tech stuff, and I might pick up some new springs and some emulators at some stage too. First order is through and I should be getting the stuff in a week or two. I'll start taking bits off over the weekend.
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Feb 2, 2017 08:40
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Oh, yeah, at least get the bike sprung correctly for your weight. Emulators are a good choice as well.
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Feb 2, 2017 17:03
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First bit of work. Got the GB Racing engine covers in the mail. Started taking bits off: no more exhaust, chain cover, and the horrid ten ton rear sets are off. Still have to get the clip ons off, but I was sweating bullets by the time I wanted to work on those and it was 40 degrees again here in Sydney...   
Barnsy fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 06:03
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First few bobs came in. New leo vince exhaust. Like the look and weight savings, though now the headers look corroded and poo poo in comparison. Might upgrade it at some point, but $400 luxury, that's more than a track day.  Got the new clip ons in the post. I was originally thinking of putting them under the triple tree, but the only way I can see t hat working is with clip ons that are almost flat. Mine have a decent angle on them, so I don't think they would fit. Position is already a lot better than before. Grips were renthals, bar ends were lovely rizoma, I might get some wider ones to replace them. Not a priority though. Also funny, beware the HK ebay clip ons: mine came in with handle bars that were different diameters. One was normal, the other small, meaning I couldn't actually tighten it enough or get the stock switchgear on. On that note, is there an easy way to remove that switch gear? Couldn't find where it clipped in. I'll be removing the front fairing as soon as the race fairings come in.   My main worry is the front brake line at this point. Even with the Tyga steering stopper that reduced the max steering, the brake line still hits the dash at full turn. Is this likely to be an issue, seeing as the bike will realistically never be in the position on the track? Either way, the brake fluid in the reservoir is quite low and I'll want to add some. There are annoying brackets on the master cylinder that mean I can't just adjust the line, I'll have to remove it completely. Thinking of just upgrading to braided lines while I'm at it. I'll see how my budget goes before the 10 March track day I have booked.  Installed adjustable levers as well. Surprisingly heavier than stock, but better purchase on them, and I need the adjust ability, given my big hands. Added some no-name Ebay rearsets, look like a direct copy of Sato ones. Exactly what I wanted, much better position and grip. Took them apart and loctited everything before mounting them.   Also added some (wonky) rim tape because all black is lame!
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Feb 24, 2017 09:23
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Switch gear connector is probably under the tank.
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Feb 24, 2017 20:48
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Fairings came in! A few cracks from transport (easily fixed), quality looks fantastic for the price. Well done Peruvian dudes! Undercoat quality looks poor, it's cracking/flaking in a few places. Seems they didn't sand the surface properly before putting the undercoat. Is there any easy way to remove an undercoat aside from sanding it off? Worried methylated spirits or other products might interact with the fibreglass. Given that I have almost 0 artistic skill, I'm considering getting them painted professionally, or at least seeing how much that would cost me. I need to dremel part of the frame off to fit the rear end, after that I'll see how it all fits together.
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Feb 28, 2017 09:12
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Figured this was due for an update! Bike is getting close to where I want it to be. Had to start by cutting off the end of the rear subframe to fit the race fairings. Lopped off a fair bit of weight in the process.  Fitted up the rear, was a tight fit given that the subframe is slightly bent to one side (by about 4mm from measuring) from the time the bike was totalled.  Next up was removing the rear shock, which has no adjustments bar preload and has terribad rebound damping. Wasn't too hard to get out, had to lift the back end up with some ratchet straps attached to the ceiling. See with from fairing fitted.  Piece of crap out   Common upgrade for the rear shock is a GSX-R 750-600 swap. Adds a bit of height to the rear end (which is welcome) and gives you full adjustments. Only issue is the additional gas cylinder on the shock that requires some trimming of the plastics, but it fits nicely and is a huge upgrade. Not bad for ~$100 including shipping and a little dremmel work.   At that stage I did an oil/filter change, put in some 10W40 fully synth.  New front fender all (crappily) painted  Finishing touch, some decals on the tank (there were none before).  I found out the hard way that the stock headers don't fit with the race fairings, the catalytic converter touches it. Basically started bubbling and smoking the fairings when I test rode it around the block, so I had to remove the lower fairings for the first track day.  I had an absolute blast. Was cruising past S1000RRs and CBR1000s. Bike is ridiculously quick to change angles. Only real issue was the gearing, which was a little too short. Near redline the bike vibrates like a mofo, and the fact I was nearly hitting the rev limiter in 6th down the main straight meant a lot of screws and bolts started to back out. Nearly lost the shift lever, and the rearsets also got loose. Lucky I had some loctite on hand and went to town on everything. Next up will be a new chain, 16T front sprocket to lengthen the gears a bit. It's my local track, and I didn't shift down to 2nd after leaving pit lane, so it needs adjusting. Also ordered some IXIL race headers, some tank grips (small tank is slippery as gently caress). I still need axle sliders, though I have yet to find one that fits the front axle. From there I'll need a power commander, and then maybe a double bubble screen, but it'll be near where I want it. Rear shock did really well, and the front handled ok (aside from a lack of damping, I got a little heavier fork oil to try and help). For those of you that haven't done it, I can't recommend small bikes on the track enough. I easily had more fun on this than my VFR, and I think my riding really benefited because it just encourages you to hit the corners at max speed.
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Apr 22, 2017 06:35
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That looks real good! I have my first trackday on my R3 coming up in a little over a month, really looking forward to it. Digging the matching colours on your gear and bike too, I have that same helmet except the blue/white graphics, with white/black/blue leather jacket to match the blue bike  Would definitely be keen to keep a bike as a trackday only thing if I have the time for it.
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Apr 22, 2017 08:34
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Z3n posted:upgrade the brake pads to some thing like ebc HH pads, bleed the fluid with RBF600. Also, consider a toe guard. They're relatively cheap, take 5 minutes to install, and are a good safety measure that are often forgotten about.
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Apr 22, 2017 13:07
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-Inu- posted:Agree w this. RBF600 is expensive, but it's really worth it. Definitely nice HH pads in the front, and I like to specifically put organic pads on the rear. Mid-corner rear braking politics aside, if you do go off track and stay upright, you will want to use your rear brake at some point. I also keep stock rubber lines and bleed a little air into the rear system. Unlike the front, I like to have as much modulation in the rear as possible. FWIW, the (stainless) lines on my R6 rub at full lock and the outer coating has started to wear over the years. I'd either fix the positioning or get stainless lines. Other than that, the only issue I could forsee is maybe yanking on the lines if you get into a tankslapper? Dunno, I've never highsided. Good idea with the toe guard, didn't know they were a thing. The rear brake is dying for a bleed, I can push the pedal and use all the travel in the master cylinder. Another thing on the list... Braided brake lines will be there at some stage, but they're expensive as hell and honestly, even with the stock setup I was outbraking pretty much everyone (in my slowass group mind you).
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Apr 23, 2017 01:18
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Got the IXIL race headers in. Fit isn't great (doesn't really slot in nicely with the leo vince mid pipe), but it does the job of keeping my fairings from spontaneously combusting. Added some cheapo tank grips as well, finding the tank really slippery given how small it is (and how tall I am). Paid $20 on ebay, dunno how people are willing to pay $120 and over for some rubber and 3M 2-sided tape...  It actually is starting to look like something proper now... 
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Apr 30, 2017 13:23
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Having trouble getting a good seal with the IXIL headers. Pipe is too wide, despite putting a ton of sealant repeatedly it still leaks, and the pipe isn't cut so I can't really tighten it down with the collar (it'll just bend the metal rather than tighten). I've sent IXIL an email about it to know whether the pipe diameter is normal or whether this was faulty. Looks like crap as is, and although the slight leak isn't a huge issue it's frustrating. I've thought about cutting slots into the pipe so the collar will actually do something, but I feel that'll just make it leak more. Prepping the bike for track day number 2 with it on Monday at Eastern Creek...
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May 13, 2017 06:40
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How much of a gap is there all-around? If it's less than like 0.020" all around you can probably make it seal okay by cutting the pipe and clamping it down. If it's more than that, you need to buy some kind of shim stock and curl it up and stick it in there before clamping. Or get the exhaust company to explain why they specced the wrong pipe diameter.
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May 13, 2017 18:12
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 09:11 |
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I've gotten around that before by getting a piece of tinfoil, folding it like twenty times into a strip about an inch wide and a few mm thick, then rolling it into a circle and using it as a gasket. Though for that clamp to work there would have to be at least one slit cut in the pipe, how's a hose clamp meant to compress a steel pipe?
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May 13, 2017 22:21
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