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As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
January kind of sucked. My cat died, I had a falling out with my best friend, and I came to the realization that I should probably sell my motorcycle before I end up like Backpanther- granted, I'm not an idiot, but I figured I should wait until I have health and life insurance just to be safe.

So I traded my death machine for a car with no seat belts, no airbags, and no crumple zones.







So far the list of things it needs and I want is pretty big. First things on the list are replace the master cylinder with something that has a bit more stopping power, then replace the generator with an alternator. And it needs a kickdown rod, a speedometer cable, the gauges need a bit of attention, it needs side-view mirrors, it has an exhaust leak...

This is going to be a while.

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Huggable Bear King
Jan 12, 2006
H.B.K.
That's sweet! The body looks pretty straight besides the paint. Any rust? Does it have the 289 V8 or the six cylinder?

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Comets are pretty cool. It looks like a fun project.

Is there a lot of Mustang partsbin raiding to be had? I seem to remember these are peripherally related to the Maverick.

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
Mustang and Falcon parts are all applicable, except for some interior trim body work. I think even Falcon doors would work in a pinch. No major rust, a bit in the trunk but I can get that fixed pretty easily.

It looks like it was a 6 cylinder car originally, but it has a 289 in it now. Supposedly the engine came out of a 66 galaxie, so I'm probably going to need a lead additive until I do something to the heads.

I might just keep the engine it has now and upgrade it incrementally, if I do decide to go to a bigger engine someday anything I get for this engine should be good for a 302 block.



Oh, and something else for the list- now it wont start. I think the battery's dead, at least I hope it is. I can fiddle with the battery terminal and get the lights to turn on, but once I turn the key I can hear a single click around the generator/voltage regulator area and the lights turn off. Off to a good start.

As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Feb 11, 2017

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe
That sounds like either a dead battery or a bad connection/corrosion. How's the interior?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Agreed. Stick a meter on the battery when trying to start. What does it read "cold", what does it read when cranking (or trying to)?

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
I'll check the battery tomorrow, too cold/dark and I have to get ready for work tonight. The interior is a lot better than the exterior. Both benches and the headliner are perfect.The driver door card and passenger side rear door card are a bit rough, but the trim is there and there's an upholsterer in town. Worst case scenario I can get falcon door cards (no one makes comet ones) but at ~ $300 a pair that isn't a priority. Hell I could probably make door cards, they're just cardboard, vinyl and trim


I'll get more pictures in the morning. I was up about 22 hours yesterday and last night so I slept all day and ran out of daylight to mess around with it.

VVVV edit: That's the plan. A paint job is aspirational. A good looking car that runs like crap is a disappointment. A crummy looking car that runs well is awesome. Paint will be the last thing I do, after I run out of other things to do with it. Even then I might not bother.

As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Feb 11, 2017

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005

by Pragmatica
Don't do anything to the paint, it's perfect.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.
Oh man, what a neat car!

Such a fantasy – something where the body's straight and it just needs mechanical work!

You Am I
May 20, 2001

Me @ your poasting

As Nero Danced posted:

Mustang and Falcon parts are all applicable, except for some interior trim body work. I think even Falcon doors would work in a pinch.
The US Falcon at that time must have run different doors to the Australian Falcon (which is interesting since Ford Australia copied the US Falcon), the doors on the Falcon are really curved, not sharp lines like the Comet.

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this

You Am I posted:

The US Falcon at that time must have run different doors to the Australian Falcon (which is interesting since Ford Australia copied the US Falcon), the doors on the Falcon are really curved, not sharp lines like the Comet.

From what I know, the very first years of the Falcon were pretty similar between US and AUS markets, but they diverged pretty quickly. By 65 they look like completely different cars to me.

I still wish Ford would bring the Falcon back on the Mustang platform. A RWD midsize sedan would be awesome, but I guess they're afraid it would compete with the fusion. I still don't know how they'll justify the revived Bronco if they're also making 4 or 5 other SUVs.

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
Ok, the battery was low but not dead, so it's on a bench charger for now. I've done some more documentation of the interior and problems, but I'm gonna link the pictures instead of posting them inline.

Door cards:
Driver door
Rear driverside door
Front passenger door
Rear passenger door
Back of the driver doorcard

Turns out only the passenger front door is in good shape. But like I said, cardboard and vinyl. Doesn't even appear to snap in, it goes in some chrome runners on the doors. I can make new cards later down the road. They won't look factory, but I can live with that.

Dashboard:
Dash pad Needs replacing
Gauges: The only one that works right now is the voltage meter. There's a summit racing oil and temp gauge below the ignition (next to a manual choke). Fuel gauge is stuck, speedometer needs a cable. I'll probably replace the whole sweep with mustang gauges
Radio is missing. At least it wasn't hacked apart to fit a modern one. Not pictured, but for once I didn't get someone's life savings of ashes from the ashtray. Instead I got a handful of nuts and bolts. A good omen.
Glove box, which is not present (the lid is). Through this you can see the heating element
Here's the heater box At least I have this. Now I need to figure out how the hell it works.

Other shots of the interior, really the best part of the car:
Headliner
Back seat
Rear shelf
Door sill, showing the original color. Olive Mist/Ivy Green. If I ever paint this it'll go back to this.

And more stuff under the hood, documenting for future projects:
Master cylinder which has about as much stopping power as my thumb. This has got to go. Problem is:
This brace is welded in place. It'll be a squeeze but I'm sure I can do it.
Voltage regulator, which looks like a rats nest. I'll be yanking this and the generator for an alternator, once I figure out the wiring.
No overflow tank. Standard for the time, but we've advanced since then.

Lastly, the build stamp. I only include this because someone goofed- the axle code is too close to the trans code so it looks like it has no axle and a transmission that didn't exist.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

As Nero Danced posted:

Voltage regulator, which looks like a rats nest. I'll be yanking this and the generator for an alternator, once I figure out the wiring.
No overflow tank. Standard for the time, but we've advanced since then

It looks to me like the voltage regulator is in your "no overflow tank" photo. The item in your "voltage regulator" picture is your starter solenoid.

If you get an internally regulated alternator (I'm not sure what donors would be appropriate for this in Fordland) you can just unplug the voltage regulator and run new wires to the battery and fuse block. Why are you ditching the generator, anyway? Plans for more electrical load? My Ford's generator has been dead reliable and they're incredibly simple to work on, fwiw.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Feb 11, 2017

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





Many years (decades) ago, I had a 1961 Mercury Comet. Came in here expecting something similar, and it's not even close! Amazing how much the car changed between those 4 years.

Not my car, but the same model/year and color:


Had an amazingly powerful (not) 6 cylinder coupled to an amazingly terrible 2 speed automatic allowing a bone-rattling 70mph in perfect conditions if you had a death wish.

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this

Raluek posted:

It looks to me like the voltage regulator is in your "no overflow tank" photo. The item in your "voltage regulator" picture is your starter solenoid.

If you get an internally regulated alternator (I'm not sure what donors would be appropriate for this in Fordland) you can just unplug the voltage regulator and run new wires to the battery and fuse block. Why are you ditching the generator, anyway? Plans for more electrical load? My Ford's generator has been dead reliable and they're incredibly simple to work on, fwiw.

Yep, your right, I got confused and my brain let me down (again). That explains the clicking when the battery was dead, it was the solenoid.

And yeah, at some point I'm going to do some upgrades that will need more power- the daydream list is EFI, electric fuel pump, and I found an electric power steering thing that I'm still on the fence about. That's all way down the line though.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


As Nero Danced posted:

So I traded my death machine for a car with no seat belts, no airbags, and no crumple zones.

Congrats on trading your death machine fort a different kind of death machine! :v:

I like it!

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
Well, I got a tag, but it's developed a clunk from the front end once I get underway and it appears to be dripping transmission fluid. I'm gonna have to postpone all the fun parts for a while in lieu of vital maintenance. At least it will be roadworthy.

Also, I'm spitballing ideas for a future project that is ok for now but I want to head off: The 289 in the car is from before unleaded gas was a thing. So for now it'll need a lead additive, but I'd like to upgrade to something a bit more modern. I have a couple options.

A: Go to a pick-n-pull and get some junkyard heads out something after 75 with a 302/5.0. Not as shiny but a hell of a lot cheaper, and I'm not building for performance right now anyways.

B: I could get new heads. Expensive but would probably pep it up quite a bit, but I'm not upgrading the internals right away. If I do swap in a 302/stroker some day down the road I could re-use the heads.

I'm thinking of going with A for the time being, and some day down the road if I do decide to keep the engine or build up a 302 I can get the new heads then. If I cheat and go with a crate engine instead I wouldn't even need the heads.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

As Nero Danced posted:

Well, I got a tag, but it's developed a clunk from the front end once I get underway and it appears to be dripping transmission fluid. I'm gonna have to postpone all the fun parts for a while in lieu of vital maintenance. At least it will be roadworthy.

Also, I'm spitballing ideas for a future project that is ok for now but I want to head off: The 289 in the car is from before unleaded gas was a thing. So for now it'll need a lead additive, but I'd like to upgrade to something a bit more modern. I have a couple options.

A: Go to a pick-n-pull and get some junkyard heads out something after 75 with a 302/5.0. Not as shiny but a hell of a lot cheaper, and I'm not building for performance right now anyways.

B: I could get new heads. Expensive but would probably pep it up quite a bit, but I'm not upgrading the internals right away. If I do swap in a 302/stroker some day down the road I could re-use the heads.

I'm thinking of going with A for the time being, and some day down the road if I do decide to keep the engine or build up a 302 I can get the new heads then. If I cheat and go with a crate engine instead I wouldn't even need the heads.

Yeah I'd just switch the heads if it was a big deal. Do you know the condition of your valve seats right now? If you're gonna swap the engine in the near-ish future anyway, you can probably get away with not caring about the lead for awhile. I run just straight 87 in my Y-block, but it's actually a parts-store reman engine from '82 or so; I'd not be surprised if they put hardened seats in it at that time.

Still, if you're going to care about it, I bet a set of junkyard heads will be under a hundred bucks, and I doubt you could get new seats pressed in for that amount. And yeah, I wouldn't bother putting brand new heads on it until you have your specific swap figured out. Maybe you won't replace it with a Windsor; you've got plenty of engine bay room for all sorts of hijinks.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Raluek posted:

Yeah I'd just switch the heads if it was a big deal. Do you know the condition of your valve seats right now? If you're gonna swap the engine in the near-ish future anyway, you can probably get away with not caring about the lead for awhile. I run just straight 87 in my Y-block, but it's actually a parts-store reman engine from '82 or so; I'd not be surprised if they put hardened seats in it at that time.

Still, if you're going to care about it, I bet a set of junkyard heads will be under a hundred bucks, and I doubt you could get new seats pressed in for that amount. And yeah, I wouldn't bother putting brand new heads on it until you have your specific swap figured out. Maybe you won't replace it with a Windsor; you've got plenty of engine bay room for all sorts of hijinks.

I'm gonna go ahead and second all of this. Find some JY heads that are in decent shape and bang that swap out in a day. If you're thinking engine swap in the future, I'd say get the current one running well enough to where you can rely on it and then just feed it fluids and filters until the big day comes. That's my plan for the cheapo Target Master 350 that I have. No real sense spending tons of money on go-fast parts for an engine that will eventually be going away.

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
I forgot to update the thread, life likes to get in the way. The clunk was some lugnuts trying to plan an escape and the trans fluid leak was just a burst cooler line, so thank god for that.

Oh yeah, only one engine mount was bolted up. Woops.

The car's been on a backburner for a while, but hopefully I'll be able to do some work on it soon. I've decided I'm not even going to bother going with junkyard heads, no sense putting money and work into something that will get sold off later anyways. Down the road I'm going to get a new engine for it, and I wouldn't want to re-use the heads anyways.

As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Mar 18, 2017

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
Not much to report, I managed to get a new set of door locks and a new ignition so I don't have to keep track of three keys anymore.

Also, I broke my gauge cluster (yay 50 year old plastic!) and had to order a new (not broken) one. Seems like a good opportunity to get a new sweep of gauges.

I have an alternator to put in this weekend, so I'll finally have some content worth showing off. I mean, it's an alternator so it's not very interesting but I feel like I'm accomplishing something.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

I have one of those! It's still got the 200-6 in it. Be careful with the V8 torque--the 7.25 differential is super fragile. If you still have 4 lugs back there, that's what it is.

1965 should have an alternator, but Ford was parts-binning Falcons and Comets like crazy due to the Mustang's success and early production models could have had a leftover generator. My 200 has early adjustable rockers but it has the (correct) later hydraulic lifters.

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bennyfactor
Nov 21, 2008


CALIENTE



drat this car looks good. 65 was the best looking year for the Marauder, too.

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