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I can't find the crown vic thread here (maybe I'm an idiot)... But my son's Crown Vic 4.6 is failing to start and it is caused by a frozen A/C compressor or clutch. He wants to sort it out off himself so I just check in with him from time to time but my main question is are there any possible ways that a faulty/coil clutch can cause this or can a compressor get to the point to locking up and prevent starting? Clutch plate is off, and of course looks like poo poo. I assume there is a snap ring buried in there somewhere to yank pulley and eventually the coil.
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Jul 10, 2017 02:46
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:I can't find the crown vic thread here (maybe I'm an idiot)... Can't you just remove the belt to test? If it starts, then get a shorter belt until you fix the AC?
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Jul 10, 2017 03:24
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:Can't you just remove the belt to test? If it starts, then get a shorter belt until you fix the AC? Yes, removed the belt, the AC pulley is frozen solid. There is of course an AC delete kit (he doesn't care about AC) but apparently there is a way to use a shorter belt but involves replacing a grooved pulley with a smooth one.
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Jul 10, 2017 03:33
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Colostomy Bag posted:I can't find the crown vic thread here (maybe I'm an idiot)... Assuming it's similar to the compressor on my old Ranger, yeah there's a snap ring in there somewhere.
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Jul 11, 2017 04:36
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Colostomy Bag posted:can a compressor get to the point to locking up and prevent starting? Absolutely. Usually the clutch will burn out when that happens, but they occasionally weld themselves to the pulley when the compressor seizes if the clutch was engaged at the time. Happened to my 88 Accord ages ago.
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Jul 11, 2017 06:18
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I've personally seen it on a Saturn SL1, and a similar fault made my mom's Trailblazer run like poo poo... on the way to be traded in that day 
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Jul 11, 2017 07:03
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Makes me really glad that the clutch came apart on my Saturn instead of the compressor taking a complete poo poo. ... just hoping it didn't poo poo black death. I'll know tomorrow! And yeah... on my Accord, I wound up having to cut the belt off of the compressor to get the car running again (I had a pretty good clue that it was the compressor.. the fuse for the HVAC blew when it died, and replacements would blow as soon as I thought about touching the ac button). But back then they used individual belts for every accessory. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Jul 11, 2017 |
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Jul 11, 2017 10:07
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Welp, the compressor is out. Was able to quick disconnect one fitting and undo another to the condenser to yank her out. The clutch looks like a toss salad of ball bearings and rust. It would require a 20 ton press to pop it off. Anyways, in goes the delete kit and of course bolts are wrong. Looks like a pile of poo poo given how the bolts are supposedly rated. So had to give the talk on proper bolts, threads, ratings, blah blah to my kid and send him on his way. Anyways at least progress.
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Jul 13, 2017 23:55
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New compressor is in. I know the amount of refrigerant is correct (it's actually slightly undercharged), but I'm suspecting they may have overfilled it with PAG oil (almost positive, actually.. didn't see him remove any from the new compressor, but he added some to it). AC is pulling a lot more power than I'm used to, and my mileage has tanked (30 mpg to ~20 mpg). It's not as cold as it used to be either. He pulled vacuum on it for a reasonable amount of time, so I don't suspect any moisture contamination. I'm assuming the only real way to remove the excessive oil is to yank the compressor, right? Or will a recovery machine get some of it out? Upside is I now know what's involved in removing the compressor on my car, so I'm confident I'd be able to pull it myself if I need to. If I wind up doing that, I may just go ahead and do the r152a conversion. From what I've been able to dig up, 152a is compatible with both ester and PAG oils, right? My car holds 0.9 lbs of 134a, which is about 408 grams - if my math is right, that's about 264 grams of 152a?
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Jul 16, 2017 07:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:New compressor is in. I know the amount of refrigerant is correct (it's actually slightly undercharged), but I'm suspecting they may have overfilled it with PAG oil (almost positive, actually.. didn't see him remove any from the new compressor, but he added some to it). ester oil doesn't cause problems with r152a, however it isn't carried by r152a so it doesn't lubricate anything. You need to flush all the oil out of the old system and start fresh. These are the two products I used to flush my system out when I did a conversion. The flushing tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMEQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The flushing splooge: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HTNPLU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jul 16, 2017 13:31
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Posted this in the stupid questions thread and was pointed here. I recently got an 05 Prius but the AC is acting very strangely, the AC system sometimes is nice and cold and other times doesn't work at all or barely works and it's a complete crapshoot which it is on any given day. It'll even sometimes start/stop working mid drive. Also the sightglass on the system is all foamy even freshly charged. I recharged it 2 days ago since the gauge was reading low and it was cold for that day and the next morning then stopped working mid-day then started working again this morning . Does anyone know what this could be? The compressor seems to be working but it's hard to tell since it uses an electric compressor, it also seems to be less likely to work when the car has been sitting in the sun. Any ideas? The previous owner was having his last about a week before it would act up, his mechanic said it was leaking and put in so much dye trying to find it the sight glass is yellow tinted but there is no sign of dye anywhere on the system I can find.
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Jul 20, 2017 23:36
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You *need* to get a proper set of gauges on it first to diagnose it.
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Jul 20, 2017 23:56
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Hmm, might have to wait then I only have a low side gauge and no money to buy proper ones at the moment.
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Jul 21, 2017 01:33
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Most parts stores will rent a set for free (they take a fully refundable deposit on it).
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Jul 21, 2017 02:46
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Oh, if that's the case I'll see about borrowing a set this weekend. Should I start by just checking the pressure according to the directions in the OP? By the way, unrelated but a few months ago 2 of my cars suddenly lost all their refrigerant within a week of each other just sitting in the garage. They refilled fine and have worked since but any idea of the cause of something like that? One is a 94 Camaro stock AC and the other is an 89 golf that was converted from R12 years ago. Edit: not sure what happened but the Prius AC is working reliably now, I'll post back if it stops again. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jul 26, 2017 |
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Jul 21, 2017 04:33
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Took the car to the garage to have the AC recharged. It was working fine-ish, maybe a little slow to cool. Machine readout said it took out 470g of refrigerant and put in 590 (the spec.) + some trace and oil. AC hadn't been service for nearly six years, so mechanic dude said it was pretty good that it had that amount of refrigerant left after that amount of time. I don't think they changed the dryer thingie. Is that normal procedure when using the fancy machine?
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Aug 9, 2017 08:00
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You'd only need to replace the dryer if the system is exposed to atmosphere. If they pulled vacuum and recharged, it was never truly open.
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Aug 9, 2017 08:24
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Ah, thanks for the info, that's good to know. On a scale from "blow up compressor" to "it's probably OK", how bad is it to be ~20% down on refrigerant? Just curious.
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Aug 9, 2017 11:46
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Even then, if its a new drier, you can just vacuum down and most of the moisture will go away.
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Aug 9, 2017 12:54
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bolind posted:Ah, thanks for the info, that's good to know. Slightly undercharged is OK as long as its not to the point where it was icing. If it was icing it feels super cold and air will stop flowing through the vents.
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Aug 9, 2017 14:31
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Beater's air conditioning felt warmer lately. Stuck the gauges on it. Made me sad. Ambient ~80*. Low side ~35psi. High side ~300psi. So, it looks like something is plugged, right? Any solution other than evacuate, replace parts, refill? Would just an evacuate and refill have a chance of fixing the problem?
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Aug 9, 2017 18:39
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Is the radiator/condenser fan working properly?
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Aug 9, 2017 19:13
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rdb posted:Is the radiator/condenser fan working properly? That's a good question. I wasn't paying particular attention to the fans, just the cycling of the compressor and gauges. I'll try it again tomorrow and see. Edit: both fans come on and seem to blow strong.  Edit 2: Just took it out and there is SERIOUS drag on the motor with the AC running. I think the pressures are right (low-to-okay on the low side, VERY high on the high side). I have no idea where to go from here? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 9, 2017 22:33
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Possibly a sticking expansion valve/device?
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Aug 10, 2017 06:15
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I gotta check the Jetta's AC when I get back home today, it was warm unless I cycled the AC off and on, then it would come back very cold and slowly warm up. Hoping its just low on refrigerant after 2 years and not a failing clutch.
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Aug 10, 2017 13:19
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Seminal Flu posted:That's a good question. I wasn't paying particular attention to the fans, just the cycling of the compressor and gauges. I'll try it again tomorrow and see. The only thing that can do that is no condensing of refrigerant on the high side. Poor air flow, blocked or rotted out fins/coils, or air/non condensible gases in the system. E: or a high side restriction between compressor and condenser. After visual inspection of fan, airflow, condenser and discharge piping, if that's OK I'd start with what I said before, reclaim and weigh. (Weigh what you take out exactly so you can find out if someone has overcharged it to cover up a low side problem, otherwise you're wasting time and ignoring good clues). Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 17:52
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I have a 2014 honda fit and the A/C does not work one bit. I am zero percent good at fixing car things, I really think I should just take it in to a shop but I don't want to get hosed over, what is the average cost for AC repair?
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Aug 30, 2017 19:48
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So if a guy's AC doesn't work and he's 99% sure that his compressor grenanded and threw a buncha tiny metal shards through the system, what would be a good way to check? Would any of the system components be reusable (aside from the compressor) if that were the case?
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Aug 30, 2017 19:51
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Knifegrab posted:I have a 2014 honda fit and the A/C does not work one bit. I am zero percent good at fixing car things, I really think I should just take it in to a shop but I don't want to get hosed over, what is the average cost for AC repair? How long is the warranty on your car's AC unit?
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Aug 30, 2017 20:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:How long is the warranty on your car's AC unit? Would that be part of the owners manual? I am poo poo at knowing how to own a car.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:12
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Knifegrab posted:Would that be part of the owners manual? I am poo poo at knowing how to own a car. Yeah, warranty information is usually in the car's owners' manual. You can probably download one from the Honda website if you don't have one anymore, or call the local dealership to find out if your car is still under warranty for various things (you probably need the VIN from the car's registration).
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Aug 30, 2017 22:18
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Bumper to bumper warranty on the Fit is probably 3yr/36k miles, so a 2014 is probably close to the end. Might be able to get a discounted goodwill repair because that's way soon for a failure. If you go diy, start at the op of the thread.
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Aug 30, 2017 23:32
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Pulled the two caps off my old compressor to look into those galleys. Its the old 70's giant ones i forget what they are called. Anyways im trying to figure out if it puked metal and looking in there and feeling around the oil is kinda gritty but no metal. Do i need to worry about that grittyness? Im gonna flush firewall back (the dash section) everything forward of that is new. Is that gonna do it or am i pushing my luck?
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Sep 8, 2017 00:10
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I have to change my heatercore in my '02 Grand Cherokee and it requires venting the system. I've googled the hell out of it but can't find instructions, is this something I'll have to get done at a garage?
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Sep 19, 2017 02:40
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Had to replace the compressor in my wife's 2002 Volvo V70XC. Apparently its a known problem with the clutch getting hot causing the compressor to not engage properly. Replaced it with one from the same year, but the compressor was slightly larger, not enough to prevent the connectors from fitting, but at least two inches longer at the rear. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Sep 19, 2017 |
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Sep 19, 2017 02:45
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gileadexile posted:I have to change my heatercore in my '02 Grand Cherokee and it requires venting the system. I've googled the hell out of it but can't find instructions, is this something I'll have to get done at a garage? Its illegal to vent refrigerant of any type.
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Sep 19, 2017 02:49
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And yet when you call it a canned duster, venting it is just fine
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Sep 19, 2017 02:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:And yet when you call it a canned duster, venting it is just fine Yup. And it even comes in R134 flavors!
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Sep 19, 2017 03:02
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