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So I just bought a steel shed that measures 12x24 and needs insulation. I was going to go with fiberglass batting on the walls and ceilings followed by 1/4" interior plywood panels. I live in Miami so the summer is hardcore and I want to install a wall unit AC to keep things cool[ER]. I have a few questions:
I actually have a great deal pending for some fiberglass insulation, which is why I'm asking instead of doing foam sheet or a composite something with a foil barrier. Also, why add foil if the wall are *made* of metal? The shed will be used as both a storage space and a studio/workspace.
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Oct 23, 2017 13:47
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| # ? May 5, 2024 13:55 |
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I don't have answers to most of your questions, but I would suggest looking into Roxul ComfortBatt insulation. http://www.roxul.com/products/comfortbatt/ I used this for a home renovation a few years ago and it is so much easier to work with than fiberglass and has pros such as being water resistant, resists mold growth and sound deadening qualities. I have no complaints. Home Depot & Lowes carries it.
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Oct 23, 2017 19:40
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Well, that's tempting since it seems the "springiness" would help with keeping all the voids filled properly, but like I said before, I'm about to drop some money on some (12-18 packages) fiberglass batt for almost 75% off MSRP since it's left over from a job. It's a mix of non-faced, and faced batts, which is why I'm asking questions. So far all the literature I've read recommends a vapor barrier between the metal wall and the insulation, but I'm not sure that means a kraft paper barrier on the panel side (interior) or the actual exterior wall.
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Oct 23, 2017 22:16
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The craft paper is just to hold it together. It's not a vapor barrier. Forget about the vapor barrier and condensation. It's a metal shed in Miami. Your shed might as well be made of cheese cloth. It's not sealed well enough to matter. In Florida though the vapor barrier should be to the exterior of wall assemblies. You put it on the warm side, which in Miami is the exterior for like all but 2 days of the year. If you're dead set on this dirt cheap batt insulation: don't seal it in any way. Don't put plywood or gyp board over it. You're just going to be trapping moisture inside the cavity. Leave it to breath. R-13 is code for a stud wall and R-30 for your roof. In Miami, a zone 1 climate, you'd do way better to insulate the roof properly than the wall if you have to pick. Most of your heat load is the roof. If you wanted to do this properly/effectively and have a comfortable shed, I can think of two ways... you need to seal the shed. 1) Spray foam the poo poo out of all joints and then insulate. Ideally you spray foam as the insulation, like Icynene. It's a vapor barrier and will insulate. 2) A roll on vapor barrier that you can get over everything. Laticrete makes one my local contractors seem to like. They put it with block, plywood, veneer stone/brick, stucco, etc... everything. Then insulate by whatever means.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:57
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xwing posted:The craft paper is just to hold it together. It's not a vapor barrier. Pretty sure asphalt coated Kraft paper *is* considered a vapor barrier, it's just most people who install battings do it wrong and leave the edges untaped or just shove it into spaces not attaching it to the walls. Nevertheless, this is for a shed that will be cooled using a wall unit AC, with all seams siliconed and the interior will have plywood over it. I can't work inside a building with exposed fiberglass, and I only need it to stay around 85-90° in the summer instead of above 100°. The roof will get styrofoam composite panels and then a coat of elastomeric white on the outside. Still debating what to do with the walls, but I am going to seal everything with something. I was told about this stuff, and it looks pretty awesome http://www.knaufinsulation.us/en/videos/ecoseal-vs-caulk-air-sealing
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Oct 25, 2017 19:12
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