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th vwls hv scpd posted:Jack up the rear end, make a mark on the inside of the tires with chalk/shoe polish/whatever and rotate the pinion/driveshaft until the tire completes a full turn. Count the turns and you'll know the gear ratio. That was pretty much my plan at this point. When I get it up to add the rear coil springs back in I'll do that. Now if I could only find some chalk or shoe polish.... In the mean time, I got appropriate wire to run constant power to the stereo. I connected to the cig output on the fuse block using a female spade connector. (top middle yellow wire)  I haven't tracked down those other wires that are later additions yet. One thing at a time.
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Sep 29, 2020 23:58
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Progress today: I got the rear end jacked up and confirmed that it is indeed a 4.11 rear end. Two turns of the drive shaft turn the wheel just over 1 revolution. Still can't find any marking on the axle tube, I assume it has long since been worn away by rust and abuse. I did pick up a diff cover gasket and gear lube, so at some point in the near future, I will smell very bad. Here is the original fuel sending unit:  Fuel made it to the engine just fine, but the fuel gauge wasn't working. Perhaps this is why:  The friend I bought the truck from had a new gas tank and fuel sending unit, but... it was a 3/8" line while the line in the truck was 5/16". Thankfully, Holley makes an adapter. The connection for the fuel level gauge was also a different style. The original was threaded, this one was just a post, so I fabricobbled a connection from my crimp on connector box:  Hell yeah:  This was the only spring holding up the truck in the rear in any fashioned:  The optional helper spring. They didn't actually remove the lower bolts, those had been rusted in place, so they just cut them off. One side came out pretty easily (compared to the other side, it still required beating with my punch set).  The other side required judicious application of PB Blaster, MAP torch, and ultimately my ball joint press to start moving it.   Once those were out, putting the spring clamps on was a pretty quick job.  Did raise the rear end end a bit, but even with these tires it doesn't look bad.  Ride quality has definitely improved.  Also, Finn and Baba judge you: 
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Oct 1, 2020 00:16
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nadmonk posted:Progress today: That... doesn't sound right? It should be four turns of the driveshaft to turn the axle shafts once, though I suppose if it's an open rear and it's only spinning one wheel that might mess with it?
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Oct 1, 2020 03:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:That... doesn't sound right? It should be four turns of the driveshaft to turn the axle shafts once, though I suppose if it's an open rear and it's only spinning one wheel that might mess with it? Yeah, that's... Eh? Well dude, since you bought a diff cover gasket you might as well get in there and count some teeth.
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Oct 1, 2020 03:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:if it's an open rear and it's only spinning one wheel that might mess with it? That'd cut the number of pinion turns to get one wheel revolution in exactly half, so yeah. And on an open diff that's exactly how you'd want to check this, as it's a little tricky to make sure one wheel isn't getting out of time with the other and screwing up your count.
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Oct 1, 2020 04:49
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So if the spiders are doubling your output, two turns on the input shaft should result in just under one rotation of one wheel with 4.11 gears. If two turns on the input gave you just over one rotation, then that sounds like 3.73.
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Oct 1, 2020 05:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:So if the spiders are doubling your output, two turns on the input shaft should result in just under one rotation of one wheel with 4.11 gears. If two turns on the input gave you just over one rotation, then that sounds like 3.73. Dammit GM, I didn't want to do math, I just wanted to know the gear ratio. Ok, that makes sense then, it was definitely just over one rotation (of one wheel, the other wheel wasn't spinning) for two rotations of the driveshaft. I just had it backwards. Of course who knows what kind of shape that rear end will be in when I open it up.
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Oct 1, 2020 11:09
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nadmonk posted:Of course who knows what kind of shape that rear end will be in when I open it up. More or less this https://youtu.be/-9dbAQJIu1o You’re a fool if you dare!
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Oct 1, 2020 19:56
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BigPaddy posted:More or less this LMAO Schrodinger's diff: It's neither fine or hosed until I crack that cover. I do need to look at the front end though, it does make a distinct clunking when turning either way a good amount at slow speeds. I peaked under it and didn't see anything totally screwed. I did notice the front sway bar bushings were fairly new urethane. Which I'm just not sure why. To get that sports car handling from the 50 year old truck with manual steering and drum brakes?
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Oct 1, 2020 22:26
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Counterpoint: unless the truck sat with a shitload of water in the rear end, it's fine. The 12-bolt is not indestructible, but at the power levels of a typical tree fiddy, it might as well be. I only replaced the wheel bearings, axle shafts, and seals when going to five lugs, and the pinion seal (by a shop) when it had a leak. I don't recall if they did new pinion bearings but I don't think they did. Carrier, gears, spiders, carrier bearings, all still 50 year old original hardware with something like 180k miles.
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Oct 2, 2020 08:06
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Spent a couple days with the twisted wire wheel cup brush on the angle grinder and got the old crusty paint and loose rust off the bed. It wasn't terrible and there will likely be more extensive repairs in the future, but for now I just want to make sure I stop current rust and prevent more. I used POR-15. I discovered 1 qt of it will do exactly one coat on a full size long bed.  At some point I'll probably do a paint on bed liner for a bit of additional protection. This isn't going to get heavy duty use, but I'd still like to use it for the occasional haul from Home Depot. The POR-15 seems to go on pretty well and even though I wasn't going for finish quality, just protection, I was impressed with how it laid down even after getting applied by brush. I'm planning on doing the under side as well. For that I might break out the paint sprayer. Other random work: Barn cleaning day! How was there so much crap in there?   The bikes will all probably go to my girlfriend's dad's barn. They'll be more at home with the other dozen motorcycles there. Also, that makes room for the BMW and C10 during the winter. We are ready:  Impulse purchase: 50% off Masterbuilt electric smoker  I've looked under both sides up front of the C10 and don't see any immediate cause of the clunking I hear when doing tight steering at slow speeds. I'm sure more than a bit needs to be refreshed up there. Those are things that will probably get attention this winter. I am pretty sure the front springs have been chopped:  In the picture as well: polyurethane bushings on the sway bar.
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Oct 5, 2020 14:28
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Por doesn't like UV. Either topcoat it or throw down a sheet of 1/4 plywood to protect the bed and make sliding stuff easier.
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Oct 5, 2020 14:44
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sharkytm posted:Por doesn't like UV. Either topcoat it or throw down a sheet of 1/4 plywood to protect the bed and make sliding stuff easier. Good to know. I'll most likely put a paint on bed liner over it.
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Oct 5, 2020 14:49
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Those smokers are great from the sounds of it. Wish I bought one instead of my gas one. There's a smoking thread here that I don't have the bookmark handy for but they will recommend the amaze N pellet tube thing that helps get more smoke for electric smokers.
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Oct 5, 2020 15:28
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nadmonk posted:I am pretty sure the front springs have been chopped: Yes, those are definitely cut / lowered springs in some way.
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Oct 5, 2020 19:41
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I wasn't sure it would fit, but the C10 will indeed fit in the barn. The Datsun has been removed. I just need to call someone to come get it. Rest in pieces Datsun, I hardly knew you. I have new springs and upper and lower front ball joints coming. The little I could see before getting the wheels off told me those definitely needed to get replaced. When I did finally get the front of the truck up and the front wheels off, the source of the clunking sound at low speed became pretty immediately apparent: Passenger side:  And driver side:  All of the tie rod end links need to be replaced. Some are worse than others.   The good news is the rust isn't bad, just some oily dirt layered on everything. I'll get it cleaned up to get a better idea of how the upper and lower A arms look. The wheel bearings feel good, which wouldn't be a huge concern long term since I would like to upgrade to disc brakes up front, but nice to know they aren't an immediate concern.
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Oct 9, 2020 22:28
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I also looked into my speedometer problems. The transmission has a 7 tooth pink drive gear. That with the 'natural' colored 19 tooth driven gear plus the 3.73 rear gear ratio would have worked fine with the stock tire diameter. With the tires that are on the back, I need to go with an 18 tooth. And if I want to go any larger on those rear tires, I'll need to swap out the drive gear for something with a higher tooth count.  So there is now a brown 18 tooth driven gear installed and the smell of ATF lingers in the air.
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Oct 9, 2020 23:44
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It felt like the picture of the transmission was missing something.
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Oct 10, 2020 01:23
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I hate you
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Oct 10, 2020 01:56
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Not sure which would smell worse.
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Oct 10, 2020 02:28
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The gear oil.
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Oct 10, 2020 19:26
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STR posted:The gear oil. I think you are probably correct. Finally getting a look at the drums. The good news is the drums and pads (and spindles and bearings) seem fine front and back. The bad news is that the fronts don't have any self adjustment arms.   So new ones are on the way. I did find a use for that massive gear puller I got in a box of stuff at a factory's closing liquidation. It is perfect for pulling stubborn rear brake drums off:  Everything seems to be in working order here. The bleeder valve does look very crusty, so I don't really trust messing with it too much until I'm ready to redo the brakes completely.  I did clean up and re-lube the self adjustment screws on both sides in the rear. Both are working perfectly now. Started taking off the sway bar mounting brackets and while the front of each was held on by bolts, I found this on the rear of each bracket.   I honestly don't have any idea why they did that. I'll cut those off with the angle grinder. It felt like the original rivet might still be in there, so I'm sure I'll have to drill that out.
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Oct 10, 2020 21:17
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Front swaybars were rare from the factory on these, so if you're seeing signs of stupid mounting it's almost certainly because someone was putting one where there wasn't before. I still don't have one on mine 
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Oct 11, 2020 03:29
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I took the lower ball joints off both sides of the C10 and one of the upper ball joints. I believe they are original, given that the uppers are still riveted in. So much crusty grease. But I'm really glad I have a ball joint press.  The one upper I got to today required copious amounts of grinding to get the rivets to a point they could be pounded out.  I was thinking the brake pads were fine, but I noticed that at least the front pad on the front driver side brake has cracks throughout it. I guess I'll have to replace those as well.
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Oct 12, 2020 01:52
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Turns out the springs that were up front hadn't been chopped, at least not that I could tell. they looked to be stock height when I got them out. However, likely very worn. So I'm still going to swap in the new heavy duty springs.  Also decided to look at the shocks since everything was taken apart. https://i.imgur.com/25ssLoc.mp4 Definitely a bit sad. New shocks for front and rear are on the way. I also found that the front driver's side brake shoes had cracks in the pad material. None of the others had cracks, but picked up shoes for front and rear.  New upper and lower ball joints installed.  I didn't get any good pictures of the removal of the old riveted in upper ball joints. I found fastest way for me was to take the angle grinder with a metal cut off wheel and cut vertically through the rivets, nipping off that corner of the ball joint mount (being careful not to go into the control arm) then cutting off the head of the rivet. Then I was able to pop off the ball joint with a cold chisel and pound out the rivets with a couple whacks of a hammer. I also got the welded on side of the sway bar mount brackets cut off. I'll work out if / how I'm going to install the new brackets I have coming when they get here. In home projects, the nook for the wood stove is finally done. Slate tile installed, heat shield installed and covered with copper plated steel ceiling tiles. 
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Oct 13, 2020 21:02
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STR posted:The gear oil. It's ATF though, doesn't smell nearly as bad.
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Oct 13, 2020 21:47
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nadmonk posted:Spent a couple days with the twisted wire wheel cup brush on the angle grinder and got the old crusty paint and loose rust off the bed. It wasn't terrible and there will likely be more extensive repairs in the future, but for now I just want to make sure I stop current rust and prevent more. I'm a bit late here but I hope you have painted over this POR15. It really does go lovely if you leave it exposed to UV. I notice in your photos that nearly every single surface underneath your truck appears to have a healthy oily sheen. Don't fix too much stuff such that it starts rusting else you're gonna have to start with the POR15 on the underside too!..
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Dec 12, 2020 13:06
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| # ? May 22, 2024 15:22 |
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Tomarse posted:I'm a bit late here but I hope you have painted over this POR15. It really does go lovely if you leave it exposed to UV. Don't worry, the truck was tucked safely in the barn not long after that picture. I also did the entire bed in a paint on bed liner. Probably nothing super tough, but enough for UV protection and the random odd or end that gets thrown in there. I would like to POR15 the underside of the truck, at least everything behind the cab. But that might wait until next year when it isn't winter. Or I might farm it out as I have plants to get it repainted in something not 'flat black rat rod rattle can'. I've picked up the project in a new thread now that I have officially sent the Datsun to the big rust heap in the sky: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3943998
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Dec 16, 2020 16:17
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