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So,tactlessbastard posted:My 2005 civic (5 speed, silver) developed a grinding sound as it rolls from the front left wheel. I thought it might be a stuck caliper and I've had my first chance today to get the car up on jacks and there's no sign of a stuck caliper...the brake pads have plenty of material and the rotor is in good shape. What else could be the source of that noise? tactlessbastard posted:drat, cursed myself. Car spent the day at the mechanic down the road from work today. They say it is the driver side bearing and it's trashed the hub as well so I'm looking at $770 to get that fixed all in. While they had it up on the rack they showed me a bunch of other problems that they wanted $$$ to fix but I'll be tackling them myself. Look for "I'm in over my head" to get some thread necromancy soon. My old thread where in I hosed up changing the timing belt and then later replaced the rotors and fixed a stuck brake caliper has expired to the archives so here we are again. Mechanic showed me that my lower motor mounts are both shot and that all the bushings on my lower control arms are completely trashed. He says in order of importance I need to get the LCA's fixed ASAP. Now, the reason I've got them doing the bearing is because I have absolutely no access to a press or vise. If I buy complete new LCAs with the bushings installed (that is a thing, right?) I can just pop them on and not have to worry about pressing anything in or out, correct? As for the motor mounts, how much of a pain in the rear end is that to do, especially considering I won't be doing it on a lift? I know I've got a lot of youtube to watch in my future but in the meantime I've got to get these pestilential children fed.
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Feb 26, 2019 00:08
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tactlessbastard posted:If I buy complete new LCAs with the bushings installed (that is a thing, right?) I can just pop them on and not have to worry about pressing anything in or out, correct? Yes they should come with the bushings already installed. You'll need a way to separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle, a pickle fork is fine since you won't be reusing the old ball joint. The stabilizer end links will have to be disconnected from the control arms and it can be tricky, I would try some vice grips on the back side of the stud trying not to damage the boot if possible. Or just replace them if you want to spend the extra money. Here is a picture of what your engine mount locations should be, assuming you have the 1.7:  Book time is only 0.8 hr. per mount so I don't expect there to be any reason you couldn't do them yourself.
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Feb 26, 2019 00:24
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Bearing, I'd have just got a good used complete front upright and bolted it on. Kind of kicking the problem into the long grass compared to doing a new bearing, but gets it mobile again. Moot point if already being fixed. Yes, complete LCAs should just bolt in, though make sure you have a ball joint separator for getting the old ones off. Also, where possible, get the suspension at normal ride height before final tightening of the inboard bolts. Ball joint doesn't really care much on that front, though if it uses a castle nut and split pin, make sure the split pin hole is in an orientation you can access before tightening everything up. Anti roll bar links can be a right dick to deal with sometimes, if they're cheap I'd just get new ones. Motor mounts on most cars are manageable with a jack and block of wood to support the engine and gearbox as necessary when swapping.
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Feb 26, 2019 00:27
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Thanks, guys. I watched some videos last night after I got the kids in bed and it seems like some pretty straightforward stuff. I'll keep y'all posted as I progress.
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Feb 26, 2019 12:42
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I mean "pop them right in" and "14 year old car" may not be analogous. The process is straightforward but the actual work might not be fun. Get a big loving hammer... also install all the bolts first, finger tight, before you tighten anything down. Come ask for help if you get stuck and frustrated and we will have tips to make poo poo easier I'm sure.
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Feb 26, 2019 13:45
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Adiabatic posted:I mean "pop them right in" and "14 year old car" may not be analogous. The process is straightforward but the actual work might not be fun. Get a big loving hammer... also install all the bolts first, finger tight, before you tighten anything down. Come ask for help if you get stuck and frustrated and we will have tips to make poo poo easier I'm sure. Fortunately, they don't use salt around here, but thanks and I will!
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Feb 26, 2019 13:59
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If you're going to do it I'd be looking for used and STRAIGHT knuckles, OEM lower balljoints ($50-ish a pop), and LCAs. This will let you pretty much replace everything down there with two bolts for the strut, a nut for the axle, and the two (?) bolts for the LCA compliance bushings. Sprinkle in poo poo like abs sensor bolt, etc. The 8th gen Civic knuckles bend up at the top where they bolt into the strut if you look at them wrong. Initial Dave was right that the LBJ to knuckle is a castle nut with pin, but the problem with these is you can't get a normal balljoint separator in there unless you pull the axle out, so plan on using a pickle fork and replacing the balljoints. (depending on if you tackle everything at once) edit: I just realized he said 2005 Civic, so nothing I said applies. Rip. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Feb 26, 2019 |
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Feb 26, 2019 17:09
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BlackMK4 posted:
Hey, thanks anyway, though! So, 1AAuto sells both LCA's with a new balljoint already attached for about ~$90 for the pair. My brother in law works for Oreilly's and can get a discount but they're still ~$80 per and that is without the balljoint so it seems like as good a deal as I'm going to get. edit: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3717785 here's the chronicle of other poo poo i thought I'd fix on this car and wound up loving up. tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Feb 26, 2019 |
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Feb 26, 2019 19:06
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Stray thought, this is the second driver's side bearing to go bad on this car, the first about 6 years ago. Do I need to be looking for something else that is causing excessive wear?
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Feb 26, 2019 19:58
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Did you replace it with OEM (or a decent aftermarket like Timken, SKF, FAG, etc) last time?
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Feb 26, 2019 19:59
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BlackMK4 posted:Did you replace it with OEM (or a decent aftermarket like Timken, SKF, FAG, etc) last time? Unfortunately, I don't recall.
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Feb 26, 2019 21:40
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Got my parts in last week from 1AAuto. Opened them up this afternoon...hmm, this doesn't look right....oh, they shipped me tie rods for an F-350. Very nice. Let's see how their customer service is.
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Mar 19, 2019 21:29
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tactlessbastard posted:Got my parts in last week from 1AAuto. Opened them up this afternoon...hmm, this doesn't look right....oh, they shipped me tie rods for an F-350. Very nice. Let's see how their customer service is. Pretty good, they're rushing out new parts and I can keep these F-350 tie rods. For self defense, I guess.
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Mar 19, 2019 21:36
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haha those are probably beefier than any suspension component on your civic
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Mar 19, 2019 21:55
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User Error posted:haha those are probably beefier than any suspension component on your civic They are.... substantial
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Mar 19, 2019 22:18
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tactlessbastard posted:They are.... substantial OK, so the right parts came in just now. I'm following their https://youtu.be/Ox0vdQR5H3U?t=122 guide and immediately run into a snag. My car looks like this: https://imgur.com/hsjFS0M No stabilizer link. This is the driver's side which has had the bearing changed twice now so I checked the other side in case it had been forgotten but no stabilizer link either. What the hell?
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Mar 22, 2019 19:58
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Meanwhile I didn't realize that I need to press the old ball joint out and press the new one in so I went down the Advanced to pick up a snap ring tool and they want $260 for the tool they use in the youtubes. And it isn't returnable. I mean goddamn, I've got a C-clamp. I think I'm going to let the ball joints lie for now and stick to the control arms.
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Mar 22, 2019 20:52
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tactlessbastard posted:Meanwhile I didn't realize that I need to press the old ball joint out and press the new one in so I went down the Advanced to pick up a snap ring tool and they want $260 for the tool they use in the youtubes. And it isn't returnable. I mean goddamn, I've got a C-clamp. I think I'm going to let the ball joints lie for now and stick to the control arms. Harbor Freight is good for this kind of stuff but try Autozone or O'Reily too they all have different loaner tools (sometimes even varying per location)
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Mar 22, 2019 21:08
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tactlessbastard posted:No stabilizer link. This is the driver's side which has had the bearing changed twice now so I checked the other side in case it had been forgotten but no stabilizer link either. What the hell? Upside, you may be able to graft one on easily (since they exist on similar models) and it's a nice upgrade for on-road handling.
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Mar 22, 2019 21:39
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Krakkles posted:If I'm looking at this right (and, no guarantee I am), that looks like it's a swaybar. Lots of cars don't have swaybars to begin with, and a fair number of vehicles that had them to begin with have had them removed. Since it looks like the mount is there on the control arm, it's even possible that your car had it and then it was removed. I'm the only owner of this thing and I know I didn't take them off... And who the hell would steal them?
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Mar 22, 2019 22:28
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm the only owner of this thing and I know I didn't take them off... And who the hell would steal them?
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Mar 22, 2019 22:48
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OK, well skipping the sway bar/stabilizer thing the driver's side LCA came off and the new one went on without too much drama. I've moved to the passenger side and even had a little help  However, I have beat the absolute poo poo out of this ball joint with the pickle fork and can't get it to let go. I think we've moved beyond 'leave the ball joint on it', too 
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Mar 22, 2019 22:54
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tactlessbastard posted:However, I have beat the absolute poo poo out of this ball joint with the pickle fork and can't get it to let go. I think we've moved beyond 'leave the ball joint on it', too
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Mar 22, 2019 22:59
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Krakkles posted:Fire. Torch the poo poo out of the LCA, or set the fucker on fire and buy another car?
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Mar 22, 2019 23:02
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Get the LCA good and hot, and snack it with a hammer. The ball joint should pop out. I'd recommend leaving the nut partially threaded as it will separate at speed. Edit - or buy/rent a ball joint separator. I've never gotten much use out of pickle forks for their intended purpose. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 22, 2019 |
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Mar 22, 2019 23:21
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tactlessbastard posted:Torch the poo poo out of the LCA, or set the fucker on fire and buy another car? And yeah, I'd agree with angryrobots. Definitely torch the LCA good and hot and hammer it, but also, if you can, get the separator - they work better.
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Mar 22, 2019 23:56
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Also put your floor jack under the end of the ball joint and get some preload on the suspension. Then use a sledge hammer on the outside of the control arm where the ball joint is mounted. That usually helps
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Mar 23, 2019 02:11
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charliemonster42 posted:Also put your floor jack under the end of the ball joint and get some preload on the suspension. Then use a sledge hammer on the outside of the control arm where the ball joint is mounted. That usually helps Fire did it just fine. Ran out of daylight though so I'll be diving into ball joint replacing tomorrow AM, which is slightly more involved than I had envisioned. Remove the wheel hub, indeed.
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Mar 23, 2019 02:18
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So harbor freight is a 40 minute drive from here 
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Mar 24, 2019 04:44
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