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Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

This is fantastic work and your kids better drat well appreciate it.

Re: 24v Chinese scooter controllers, they work quite well and are cheap to replace when your kids melt them after doing burnouts have too much fun with them. The way to set them up for forward/reverse is using 3 or 4 bigass relays; I’ll try and dig up the pictures/plans.

PS, the best reason to use the scooter controllers is because then you can use a Hall effect throttle, which will give the kids precise throttle control and doesn’t require you to run full current through the pedal.

Tldr I did all that on a couple kids cars:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7I5QDFV8JO0

My oldest is only 3 in that video, time flies...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dKWKQSW2Tt4

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AIReMY9W9nE

You’re smart for using metal parts from the get-go in the drive system, 24v likes to turn nylon gear Power Wheels gearboxes into dust.

As such now that we’re almost back in our house after the fire and my kids are bigger now, I treated them to an upgrade:







This thing is pretty fancy. 24v from the factory, has a 180w motor on the rear axle that has a diff much like your setup, cable actuated disc brakes on the rear axle, radio is better than 90% of the cars I have owned and takes a USB stick for mp3s, etc. I don’t have the time or tools (anymore...) to build something on my own, but the Porsche is stout. Metal frame, weighs over 100 lbs. So long as they don’t run each other over it/they ought to last quite a while.

edit: here's the diagram I was thinking of:











Worked pretty well. High amperage relays are recommended.



Also 6v AGM UPS batteries are cheap and relatively compact to get to 24v without drill nonsense:

Tremek fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Aug 11, 2020

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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

We're back, minor update with more work to come.

Predictably the drill throttle gave up the ghost, a combination of getting hot and soft and getting stamped on too many times.


So I bought a 500w 24v motor controller then when it turned up I realised it's exactly the same as the one in tremeks pictures. It came with a twist hand throttle but I also ordered the foot pedal throttle. That came with the wrong plug so a little butchery will be in order. Reverse will be handled by relays as per tremeks diagram, the proper version of what I was doing with the big DPDT switch. That diagram seems to show the only brakes are shorting the motor wires together? I'll study further.


This makes the 18v rig redundant as the controller has a 20v low power cutoff so I'll pull the batteries from the kittenham for now.

24v power means brakes have moved from "nice to have I really should make" to mandatory. I'm going to try to spring load and cable actuate the electromagnetic brake on the back of the motor, if that doesn't work I've found cheap band/drum brakes for scooters that look like they could be made to fit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203145501205

I never got the brake on the kittenham working right, I suspect now that's why the mobility scooter was scrapped. If this works on the Jeep I'll do the same on that.

Target is to have the Jeep painted and doing burnouts by Christmas, in the vain hope we have some snow and this can drag the sledge around the streets. we rarely get snow until Jan/Feb

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