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mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Obvious realization for FB - I have a couple wrecked unibodies. If I focus on doing bodywork on the sections that aren't stock shaped it saves a _lot_ of time and effort to just use the stock sheetmetal for a bodywork plug... and a lot of "beating my head against doing solidworks surfacing" pain.

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mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
So getting a bunch of parts in to reverse engineer and blah blah blah I'll post images of that later. First something huge.




That, ladies, gentlemen and other is an RX-8 (or NC MX-5) upright with a common, off the shelf 4x100 bearing with no modifications to any part.


15" is very tight but plausible.

mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 7, 2022

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
It's the darnedest thing; progress is slow when all my money is going to daycare and RL is stressful and stuff. Oh well, got an answer I needed today.



Fitment checker tool! Brake rotor and caliper are bolted to that flange which is welded to a tube. Wheel mount flange is welded to a second tube that telescopes in that tube. There's a clamp to hold the two together.



In position... that's an 11.75x1.25" rotor with a ZR34 caliper (Superlite size) in a 15x7 wheel.



Closeup of clearance.

So the point is move it to the minimum clearance, unbolt the wheel, measure wheel mount face to rotor face, which gives me minimum dimension for brake rotor hat. Which gives me rotor position that works for sure, which means I can finally finalize front suspension geometry.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Clearance is clearance.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

honda whisperer posted:

Clearance is clearance.

Well it just so happens that that clearance plus a few mm puts me at a couple of the Wilwood Civic big brake kit hats. Which is actually a little unexpected; I thought that I'd hit on the barrel or something, but is frankly kind of great.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Weird, but cool. Should be fairly cheap too since civic parts.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

honda whisperer posted:

Weird, but cool. Should be fairly cheap too since civic parts.

Cheaper than custom stuff from billet anyway. Going to mockup a brake hat from HDPE or something just to make 100% sure because the hats are still a couple hundo apiece.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

mekilljoydammit posted:



My dad's barn is not well organized. Thing in the background is the frame and motive parts for a cyclekart - basically simple go-karts styled after pre-war racers. The wood bodywork isn't attached but I think my dad's styling after an Aston. 6.5hp hondaclone, CVT, dead axle front with leaf springs... we're going with better brakes than the "normal" design. Parents and I both have fields so we're going to mow tracks and race.

Hi, what happened to the cyclekart? Any updates on that? I have a bunch of parts arriving next week for my cyclekart build, you are the only goon who has acknowledged one before it looks like

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Cyclekart has kind of been stalled because other stuff is eating up time, you know how it goes

Uhm. So just to keep things alive and stuff... stuff's happening; I need to get a few things nailed down design-wise before they're interesting to post, but I'm gearing back up into the swing of things.

Oh and I think I have transmission option figured out; talked to the US side of Sadev and one of their options is about perfect and actually at a really reasonable price. It's a "save up for it" sort of price but you know how that goes.

Unless people want to buy RX-7 rolling shells to fund this craziness? Anyone? :grin:

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Excited to see the updates!

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
OK, back on my bullshit.




So had a scan of a BMW Mini rear hub/bearing from work, dropped a couple sections on it in SW and make a mockup geometry. And using this to print a very very rough upright mockup to hold the bearing and the brake caliper in the orientation I think they need to be in, so I can mock up a brake hat and just 100% verify everything will fit as I think.

... and gives me a starting point for upright design.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull


Rough brake hat (to dimensions of an off the shelf Wilwood unit) and rough upright containing what should be radial caliper mounting locations, all of which bolts to that Mini wheel bearing. If this fits, with the calipers, inside the wheels I'm golden and can do the upright design. And if that's done I can finalize the front suspension design and be drat sure I don't need to redo the front end frame design.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
So OK what was the point of all of that?



3d printed fitment test jig designed to hold caliper (PFC ZR34; Wilwood Superlite class) and BMW Mini rear hub (here to be used as front hub) and 3d printed brake hat designed to an offset I was pretty sure should work. But does it...?



Oooh, looks promising...



Just fits! Everything (barely) clears; probably going to space the wheel out by maybe 2mm and then there'll "lots" of space. This is, for the record, an 11.75x1.25" brake rotor, a Superlite size caliper, and an off the shelf cast 15x7 wheel.



Back side. Upright won't actually look like that but it was a quick and dirty design with enough meat for me to tap into it for the caliper mount.

So I'm going to do another test or two (thicken the wheel mount face of the brake hat by 2mm, see if there's any chance in hell of fitting 12.19"x1.25" rotors) but fundamentally... that's that, now I know where the rotor and caliper have to go. Which means I can finalize the front suspension design, which means I can finalize the front bit of the chassis!

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Clearance is clearance.

casque
Mar 17, 2009
Rubbing is racing.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Is there not some risk of getting a stone or something lodged between the caliper and spoke?

They resurfaced our streets in Austin using "chip seal" and multiple times I got stones stuck between the rotor and dust shield. Extremely annoying, but it seems like it would be worse between a caliper and wheel.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I cant tell how much clearance you have from the photos but any concern with wheel flexing under impact causing contact?

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
So short answer, yeah, I do have concerns about practical clearance with the dimensions as printed, so I am going to try a couple adjustments. It's _really_ close in a couple places but with physical mockups I can literally just spin it around and take a caliper to stuff, which is great.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Instead of doing new prints could you just shim 2mm of whatever to check? Or would it change other items?

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

Wrar posted:

Instead of doing new prints could you just shim 2mm of whatever to check? Or would it change other items?

With a few of the shifts I want to try, yes, 100%; I don't really want to reprint all of this for every test change if I can avoid it. Like the first thing I want to try is basically just equivalent to a wheel spacer, and I'm just going to superglue some washers to the brake hat.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Is ABS in the cards? If so integrating the ability to bolt a MR sensor to your front knuckle would get you into a MK60E5 real easy and cheap down the road. Rear sensors for them can be traditional rings, front requiring MR is the annoying part.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Abs isn't legal; the mini bearings do that thing where they use the bearing for the tone ring so was going to use the sensors to get wheelspeed for data logging purposes and call it good enough, since it's there and makes spare parts simpler. Place for sensor will be integrated with the real upright design.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Ah, gotcha, that is a shame. :) I saw your bearings had the tone ring integrated so I was curious. MK60E5 uses MR to determine wheel turn direction.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Enh, it's real slicks instead of dot-rs even so I wonder if the Teves would keep up... but also kinda, car's turning into an over the top science experiment badly enough as is.

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mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Hmmm. TFW you realize that you're building a car for a class that's almost dead, which gets stuck in run groups where everything else is faster in a straight line, and you can't really afford some parts necessary for a frontrunning car. And I think I kind of knew this... that there was just a "... and then a miracle happens" step I was trying to not look at but was sapping enthusiasm.

... on the other hand, there's another option that shares most of the trick parts anyway, and is a viable class, with good competition locally and otherwise, and lets me do a lot of fun still still. If only I had some spare FB unibodies where I could build one up.

(I have lots of FB unibodies)

New thread once I get some more progress done to take pictures of.

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