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There's a small part of this truck which I will try to keep, and that part is the np205 tcase (np stands for "no problemo"). I'm gonna take that baby out and try to ID it so I know how to adapt it (hopefully) to a 6l90e. There are GM, Ford and Dodge versions of this tcase. This one is either a GM or a Dodge because it's a passenger side drop and it needs an adapter to bolt up to the Ford C6 currently in the truck. The only downside to this tcase is the uninspired 2:1 ratio it puts out, but otherwise these are popular and pretty stout units for offroading. Transmission tunnel has a nice big manhole cover. Thank you, old truck designers.  Currently it's held in by phillips head screws and super bespoke captive screw thread thingies which I will be replacing instantly. Of course there's always one who thinks they're gonna win this war and stay in place. gently caress you I will crush your rebellion.  An angle grinder later and hello there, C6, and just out of shot behind it, np205 top bolts.  This thing is a fuckin' filthy pig, but I got it out despite it weighing in around, best guess, 8 trillion tons. I have no idea how I'm ever gonna get this back onto a transmission.  I liberally sprayed it with engine degreaser and made it somewhat approachable. You can see here it's a 6 bolt, not a figure-8, so that rules it out from being a '71-'84 GM model.  Back of the case, dates say 85? This lines up with the bolt pattern. It's as old as me! It's in great condition for its age, just like me! It weighs a ton, just like me! Am I a transfer case?  The input shaft is clearly an aftermarket 31 spline to fit up to the C6, so I can't use that to help me ID it.  Front output shaft is a 32 spline which is what is used on Dodge models, so maybe this is from a Dodge?  I couldn't get good photos of the rear output spline count because all of this oil kept coming out? Who broke into my truck and oiled it.. Check out this intense adapter ring used to clock it correctly onto the C6. Hopefully someone will find this and the input shaft useful for their own project.  Ultimately it doesn't really matter if this thing came from a GM or dodge truck, but I do now know that advanced adapters sells a kit with adapter plate and input shaft to bolt onto a 6l90 yay. 
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Aug 2, 2021 03:27
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The NP205 is the heaviest most awkward chunk of metal I've ever had the displeasure of moving. The stripped case was fine to deal with, and each piece I put back into it changed the balance and made it more awkward. When it was back together on the workbench, I was only able to lower it down to the jack, it took all I had to get it back up. I put it back in using a transmission jack and some stock to orient it correctly.
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Aug 2, 2021 05:31
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StormDrain posted:The NP205 is the heaviest most awkward chunk of metal I've ever had the displeasure of moving. The stripped case was fine to deal with, and each piece I put back into it changed the balance and made it more awkward. When it was back together on the workbench, I was only able to lower it down to the jack, it took all I had to get it back up. It's nice to hear I'm not alone in the np205 movers community. I'm going to leave this fuckin thing on the floor where gravity compels it to be until it's time to do the input swap. When moving it around it was the weight combined with the rounded, greasy, non-grippy shape that really made life suck. I ended up using the pallet that the 4bt came on to drop onto, then slid that out and wiggled it onto one of my DIY dollies that I've been using to move random heavy truck poo poo around. StormDrain posted:I put it back in using a transmission jack and some stock to orient it correctly. Yeah this makes me want to invest in a really good, deluxe, adaptable transmission jack. I still have the C6 to take out, but something really awesome and nice to use is definitely in order.
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Aug 2, 2021 06:09
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drop it on your chest, its only 150lb. Oh, you're not 20 anymore. Uh yeah grab the welder and fashion up a bracket that mates the awkward bastard with your standard floor jack. I'll do a pedal travel check when I have the truck running next. I did it on the accumulator and its almost an inch of travel shoving the pedal with my arm. In going from vacuum to hydroboost its important to not forget to change the ratio of the pedal. I moved the pin and welded it back into place on mine. I'll grab the ratio for you when I do the travel test, I don't have the notebook with me at the moment.
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Aug 2, 2021 06:49
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cursedshitbox posted:drop it on your chest, its only 150lb. Oh, you're not 20 anymore. Uh yeah grab the welder and fashion up a bracket that mates the awkward bastard with your standard floor jack. Haha I spent some time thinking about this today. I have the standard but great HF jack and took off the rubber pad in the contact plate thing, its just a small allen wrench to secure the plate down but it took a 2ft breaker tube to undo it, insane. Well it had no good mounting options so I'd have to make my own. Anyway I had the engine pallet as a convenience so ended up using that. Looking at fancy-pants transmission jacks I am considering buying another jack to weld my own poo poo to it so I can uno reversal that poo poo later on and have 2 good jacks. The problem is it really does need 4 casters so it can be moved around as needed, so I might just end up with a trans jack. cursedshitbox posted:I'll do a pedal travel check when I have the truck running next. I did it on the accumulator and its almost an inch of travel shoving the pedal with my arm. Thanks, more info is always welcome. I assume travel distance in hydroboost is less than the original unboosted, especially with Krakkles' measurements. The original pedal has about 2" of travel to give (to its original unboosted MBC) but the hinge position would be a real pain in the rear end to modify. Also there are spiders up in that area now so what can I even do about it?
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Aug 2, 2021 07:24
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It’s not just NP205’s that are awkward, heavy bastards. The HF2A transfer out of the full sized landcruisers are awful out of balance bastards that try to kill you every second they’re not attached to the back of the gearbox or sitting surrounded by chipped concrete beside your floor jack on the shed floor…
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Aug 2, 2021 22:46
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I'm taking the cage out this weekend for final welding and therefore I'm a few weeks out from ordering a transmission! The plan has always been some sort of auto, but I'm starting to have some doubts about my top contender.. A 6L90e is a perfectly good trans that can support the torque since I'm not towing or hauling rear end, however the only way to get this thing to work is with a TCM-2650. I'm not sure if the CIA made this or not because finding out information online about it literally impossible. There's one video on youtube of some guy getting it to work (poorly) with no resolution, and only like 1 company that sells it in any real supported way. I'm going to contact them to find out why the gently caress literally the only (not)controller of the 6l80/90 has exactly 1 customer online and what it even needs. Anyway it's a huge cloud of doubt over this product, so I'm looking into the alternatives. Auto alternatives: Allison - Too big?  Expensive too, I'd need to research this a lot more but it doesn't sound promising yet.6R80 - Good controller available, no adapter for 4bt?  4l80 - Weak, poo poo gears, easy controller.  Manual alternative: A manual trans isn't my first choice because I honestly think offroading with an auto is a delight. Tonight I am entertaining this idea but tomorrow it might be off the table... However my best option here is the Tremec TR-4050  because it's current, good and has a good gear range. I think it'll even let the np205 directly bolt onto it? Not entirely sure yet, but it has bellhousings for Cummins. Also cheaper and no electronics to leave me stranded in the desert again.Anyway, just an update on my current, but ever-changing thoughts about transmissions. I'd love to hear what anyone has opinions on with regards to either the mythical TCM-2650, Tremec bolt patterns, or anything really. Got opinions on 29.97 vs 30hz? Let em' fly. This is a rules abiding, opinion free zone*! *Subject to local enforcement and regional opinion police.
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Aug 6, 2021 07:26
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Okay now I'm glad to see I'm not entirely off base on the lack of 6Lx0E controllers. I've thought about putting one behind my LS1, but the only PCMs that can happily run the 6L80/90 require a 58x crank trigger that I don't have, I don't feel like installing, and I don't want to rewire the whole loving truck again.
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Aug 6, 2021 15:58
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tuna posted:A manual trans isn't my first choice because I honestly think offroading with an auto is a delight. That being said: A lot of automotive (and probably especially offroad) products are made, sold, and/or marketed by, basically, that racist old uncle who thinks EFI is a gubmint conspiracy. Aside from the "ew, no" aspect of this, it's not at all uncommon that there's one really lovely website with basically no documentation. It's not impossible that it's still a decent product, and there do seem to be some forum posts detailing people installing it without too much strife.
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Aug 6, 2021 16:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Okay now I'm glad to see I'm not entirely off base on the lack of 6Lx0E controllers. I've thought about putting one behind my LS1, but the only PCMs that can happily run the 6L80/90 require a 58x crank trigger that I don't have, I don't feel like installing, and I don't want to rewire the whole loving truck again. Aha, the 58 tooth tach sensor thing fills in some of the puzzle. I recently cancelled a harmonic dampener because of 6l90 tach woes, I had no idea what sort of signal the 2650 would be looking for. This company wants us to use a $250 58x tach sensor to be compatible with the 2650, which is kind of annoying because I'd be just guessing if its going to be a fitment issue with a dampener. Krakkles posted:I agree with this completely, but it sounds like if that controller isn't available/doesn't work/isn't supported, manual might be the way to go. I've read that thread before but a lot of it went over my head, reading it again, internet user fabmec's post has a lot of good information in it and it's actually a little reassuring. One thing that seems like a complete ball ache is transmission tuning. Having to buy hptuners software/hardware licenses and all that poo poo on top of everything else is the least interesting thing I can think of to do. Still a lot of unknowns.
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Aug 6, 2021 19:59
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tuna posted:I've read that thread before but a lot of it went over my head, reading it again, internet user fabmec's post has a lot of good information in it and it's actually a little reassuring.
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Aug 6, 2021 21:16
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Sorry its taken me a bit. .250" to engage, .500" full boost. Pedal ratio is 5:1. Slushy vs manual: It looks to me the controller can be programmed for custom modes. If it can be programmed to manually select a single gear and lock/unlock the tcc, it would be just as good if not better than any stick out there. IE if you want LO - 3rd to climb an obstacle, you can select 3rd and 3rd alone rather than LO then run through gears 1-3. Sticks will always be simpler. However automatics can be built a lot stronger than any stick... I like having a manual but sometimes a torque converter would be nice. failures? uhh keep fresh fluid in it and don't let it get too hot. ime they'll handle rated power plus 20-30% or so with gentle application of it. 50-80% of rated with shockloading. Primary argument for keeping a stick is for being able to float-shift doublers or whatever and turning your 5-6speed into a 12. Pulling it off with an automatic is possible with machining/electrickery but a stick does that quite easily. Though this is probably way left field for your truck. Tuning an automatic isn't too bad. I helped get a fellow goons 4r100 dialed in behind a p-pumped compound turbo 6bt recently in the before times. You do kind of need two people for that.
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Aug 7, 2021 17:09
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tuna posted:Aha, the 58 tooth tach sensor thing fills in some of the puzzle. I recently cancelled a harmonic dampener because of 6l90 tach woes, I had no idea what sort of signal the 2650 would be looking for. This company wants us to use a $250 58x tach sensor to be compatible with the 2650, which is kind of annoying because I'd be just guessing if its going to be a fitment issue with a dampener. After watching literal hours of video on ATF I suspect the reason the 6L transmissions need a 58x crank sensor was to deal with preventing false misfire codes with the torque converter clutch locked. Seems like you should be able to ignore that in a non-OBD2-compliant environment but perhaps not. In your shoes that would be a hard choice. I love having a manual and 4.56 gears in my TJ because I can put it in first and low and pretty much ignore the clutch, with better engine braking than I ever got out of my 545RFE WJ. But the 6L50E programming on my Canyon Duramax is loving bang-on. Put it in tow/haul mode and tap the brake and the computer will downshift while closing off the turbo to act as an exhaust brake and slow you down quick. If the 6R80 has a good and well documented computer available for it, seems like solving the mounting adapter is easier than reinventing that.
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Aug 7, 2021 19:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:In your shoes that would be a hard choice. I love having a manual and 4.56 gears in my TJ because I can put it in first and low and pretty much ignore the clutch, with better engine braking than I ever got out of my 545RFE WJ.
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Aug 7, 2021 19:46
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Cat tax for all the helpful replies   cursedshitbox posted:Sorry its taken me a bit. Thanks for the info, I should be good with the current pedal then. Is it an obvious choice to install a steering fluid cooler into the loop while running hydroboost? Yeah the TCM supports TUTD on the 6l90, sounds like its something to hard-wire up which shouldn't be too hard (fingers crossed, might sacrifice a lamb) to get working. Manual control over gear selection is extremely important, I use it a lot in the JK but mostly for engine braking honestly. Never had it searching for gears over a rock obstacle but that's probably because we're only going 1mph. IOwnCalculus posted:After watching literal hours of video on ATF I suspect the reason the 6L transmissions need a 58x crank sensor was to deal with preventing false misfire codes with the torque converter clutch locked. Seems like you should be able to ignore that in a non-OBD2-compliant environment but perhaps not. The 6L will probably be looking for a certain type of signal and won't have a fun time with anything but whatever a 58x signal looks like. Electronics is definitely alien to me though so I have no idea what that kind of signal looks like. Is it a 60hz high/low kinda thing (with 2 tooth gap)? Is it converted somewhere? etc. I will probably just pay for the stupid expensive 58x tach so I don't have to deal with issues like that, and will save me on the sacrificial lamb budget. IOwnCalculus posted:In your shoes that would be a hard choice. I love having a manual and 4.56 gears in my TJ because I can put it in first and low and pretty much ignore the clutch, with better engine braking than I ever got out of my 545RFE WJ. But the 6L50E programming on my Canyon Duramax is loving bang-on. Put it in tow/haul mode and tap the brake and the computer will downshift while closing off the turbo to act as an exhaust brake and slow you down quick. The 6l/6r series of transmissions seem really good, honestly. Glad yours is working out well. I just hope there aren't too many hangups trying to get the features working. I think I'm back to team-auto because as I said earlier, they're just awesome offroad. The all-mechanical nature of a manual is fairly romantic, though, but I'm not sure its enough, however my opinion might change again. The 6R80 route seems fairly incomplete with a 4bt. Had I gone with the r2.8 I would probably be heading in that direction. I went to check on the truck today and some cheeky lad must've stolen my entire rollcage!  Heh totally fooled you!!! I just moved it into the garage with the help of a friend. The couplers worked and nothing got Chinese finger trapped, to my own amazement. Here it is missing the driver side dismantled corner.  Bolted it all up again so it won't warp as much while welding. A little bit of a pain to do but it does fit back together which saves me some embarrassment. Although I did tack in something completely upsidedown which I did NOT take pics of so it never happened.  It really feels like I made a small jungle gym. I wish I could do bigger welding projects like this more often because it's a lot of fun. All my WFH friends who paid out the rear end for squat racks/gym equipment when we could've been making them are lost opportunities. I was uh.. surprised how many bolts are in this cage, however if I show up to my local mall parking lot without at least something bolt-on all the cool Jeepers will laugh. 
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Aug 9, 2021 06:10
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This is the loving coolest, though I would have argued about the 4bt but it's too late now  My only real complaint is whatever bastard previous owner murdered my dream m726 to turn it into a regular m715. I want one of those 726s in the worst way but I'm probably going to have to build my own out of a 715, they come up for sale approximately never. Cage looks great. Not gonna pass rally tech inspection with it but it's 100% fine for rock crawling outside of KoH level stuff. The factory tcase in these is actually an np200 (basically the same as a 205, but with a passenger offset rear output that goes in the hole behind the front output) that I believe is divorce mounted. The 205 is better in essentially every way though.
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Aug 10, 2021 05:08
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kastein posted:This is the loving coolest, though I would have argued about the 4bt but it's too late now Hah, what would you have picked? [e] just spotted an article about a duramax swap into a 715, since it was a bit of a topic earlier. No Allison though! Also truck is lifted to a terrible height. kastein posted:My only real complaint is whatever bastard previous owner murdered my dream m726 to turn it into a regular m715. I want one of those 726s in the worst way but I'm probably going to have to build my own out of a 715, they come up for sale approximately never. Yeah it's a shame a rarer version was lost to this. I imagine most 726 bed bodies were probably parted out over the years and put onto the back of modern work trucks. tuna fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 05:50
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I'd probably go with: - LS 6.0, just because they are dirt cheap and fit the spot well. I'd have to actually do the math but I suspect they do well against the 4bt too, especially when you take into account the different acceptable rpm ranges and different gearing choices made to accommodate that, at least last time I compared stock vs stock the 4bt didn't really have much going for it. Turned up? I have no good comparison. - Ford 6.0... fully deleted, studded, etc - maybe a modern 6.7 but those are still big money Really, I don't have dimensions on the ones I'd use other than the LS, and I don't like overly lifted trucks any more than you do it seems, so fair chance I've basically got no acceptable suggestions. LS is boring, but I did the math and decided I wanted to drive my truck sooner more than I wanted it to be unique power plant wise so I just did it. E: One of my dream builds is an m715 soft top service truck on a 6.7 Ford f450 rolling chassis with a modern utility body and a decent crane or knuckle boom, but I'm hosed up, so that might just be me. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 07:51
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That's not dieselly enough.
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Aug 10, 2021 14:30
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Yeah I decided on the fuel type first and went from there so the LS was never on the table. Although, the 4bt is basically the LS of diesel swaps with an absolute ton of information out there for a newbie like me looking for a K.I.S.S. principled vehicle. I didn't know the Ford 6.0 was deletable, but I have doubts over the height/weight of that motor anyway. Those trucks are TALL. All said and done, this 715 should be around the same hood-height of a 4" lifted JK, which is small in truck-scale. The 715 wheelbase is also only 10" longer than the 4dr JK too, which is great (departure angle is terrible as any truck, though). For reference the new JT gladiator has a wheelbase 20" longer than the JK. Those fuckers are too drat long and people have to lift them to the sky to get over anything.
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Aug 11, 2021 04:12
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I've been busy. Sometimes on the truck. It's been a while between updates because of life. A death in the family and visits to New Mexico to see to that. A stupid good cat who eats string, requiring surgery. A stupid me who eats too many burritos for lunch and cant function. Well here's the cat situation, he chewed off my wife's shoulder strap from a swimsuit and swallowed the entire thing. This required surgery to remove what he didnt poop out. [timg]https://i.imgur.com/jeloMgg.jpg][/timg] We gave him a donut to be happier since his incisions are on his belly. The wife is giving him lots of supervision and taking it off when possible while under supervision. He is still a smelly cat who needs to heal.  The only progress I have made has been on the cage, which has become a much larger undertaking than I expected. It's been tacked together and removed for a while so the main progress report here is that I've since fully welded it all together. I then placed it all back into the truck to check for warpage. I've nodded my head at the outcome of that and removed it all again, bolted it back up again in the garage and continued with the gusset situation. After making large custom shaped gussets and welding in smaller prefabbed 90deg ones, I finished the seat mounting welding and mounting tabs, and finished up the locations of the 3-pt seatbelt mounting locations. I didn't document any of this since I'm not sure roll cage update #12 is really that interesting but here are some pictures. There might be more boring updates to the cage in the future. An gussets.  My attempts to get the right location for a seatbelt bung. Still not happy.  The entire cage. Massive gussets that took me forever to make for the A-pillar base. Seatbelt in for driver position - except 2nd lap connection yet - Trying to figure out what the best location for that is.  All in all, probably a mile worth of welds.
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Aug 30, 2021 09:22
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Now that the cage is done (again - I've now finished welding in the seatbelt tabs) and it's being painted I can move onto my true passion in life which is interior military decorating. The cage will block the original windshield latches as seen here.   It will also block the glovebox and the grabhandle, so I've made the executive decision to do away with them. I'm not quite sure what to do with the glovebox door. Wondering if I should just remove it and weld some metal in to make it all flush. The benefit of that is that I can then cut a new glovebox wherever I want at a later date.. Open to suggestions too. Gone!  The windshield needs new latches just in different positions, so I welded those in. I went with adding an extra middle latch because they're smaller than the originals.   And removed the old latches.  The drivers side one is really close to some wires. I figured that if I'm pretty careful with the cutoff wheel I wouldnt run into trouble, all I would need to do is to remember t-Ah gently caress I cocked it all up.  The PO was kind enough to give me some cans of the paint. It's a CARC-like matte which I quite like, although I wish the green was a shade or two darker. So this is how the latches now look.  I think it really brings the place together.
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Sep 5, 2021 02:34
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If you haven''t figured out your transmission situation yet, there's a company in Poland that makes a controller and adapters for the ZF 8HP70 which is in a ton of ram trucks and V8 chargers/challengers/chrysler 300s. They don't make an adapter for the 4BT but i would imagine they would be able to get it done. Could be fun to attempt. https://www.facebook.com/turbolamik/ If you're not too married to the 4BT. they do already have adapters for the BMW M57 diesel and are putting a 400hp one in a nissan patrol. https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=75815 Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Sep 5, 2021 |
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Sep 5, 2021 02:38
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Powershift posted:If you haven''t figured out your transmission situation yet, there's a company in Poland that makes a controller and adapters for the ZF 8HP70 which is in a ton of ram trucks and V8 chargers/challengers/chrysler 300s. They don't make an adapter for the 4BT but i would imagine they would be able to get it done. Could be fun to attempt. That motor sounds awesome, and the ZFs shift really nicely. I've already got my 4bt and have done all the research into that so I'm locked in with it. I'll look into this transmission a bit more though!
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Sep 5, 2021 03:22
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I took care of the gloryholes in the cab today, anonymous sex acts are now officially off the menu. While I was at it, I patched up all other holes in the floor. I went down to a .023 wire size and set the welder to a very pathetic number of amps. I hate welding thin sheetmetal as blowing through happens all the time and all you can do is chase the stupid hole until it closes, which leaves lots of really ugly welding everywhere. Welded in about 14 of these small boltholes all over the place:  A few big'ns:   Aaand then had to take care of the big rust spot that's under the driver side. It's actually underneath a strengthening channel so it must be somewhere water collects, so I'm going to try and stop that situation from happening any more. Also I want that strength back in the cab.  As you can see I cant quite get the grinder into all of the little areas to clean the metal so it's going to really suck welding onto in some spots.  Figured I'd test out this weld-through primer I've had for 2 years but never had a need to use. This seems like a good time to paint the inside and weld it all shut.   Used the high tech carboard aided design method of cutting metal.    And then welded it all closed. This took... a very long time and it was an awful process. Arms in the air for hours, balancing a flashlight and a welding torch, fighting the welding hood and n95 mask to stay in position, welding onto grotty grimey thin rusty sheetmetal that blows through all the time, its over 100f out and because I'm under the weld I have to wear welding pants, jacket, flameproof neck hat protection, etc. etc. I don't even care that it looks like poo poo because its underneath the truck, I'm definitely not spending any more energy on this than I have to.   There is a section on the very right of the image that you might see that I couldn't patch because it's directly above the frame rail. I'm only concerned about water getting in now that the rest is strong, so I'm patching that with JB weld lol.
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Sep 6, 2021 03:24
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Thanks for making the holes in my floor look tiny. Nice work.
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Sep 6, 2021 05:34
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Happy new year! And merry xmas, and trick or treat! The holiday season was busy as gently caress so I've not had time to post much. First of all I got everyone really dumb xmas gifts. I really hope HF makes more of these, but in more useful drive sizes. I'd definitely daily a gold plated 1/2" drive torque wrench while cosplaying a broken down yet DIY spirited Lambo owner in Dubai.  Okay, I'll keep it brief and synergize with you on the progress being made, leveraging powerful multimedia embedded technologies demonstrating... stuff. Painted and plugged any pesky little holes I found in the cab. Used little rubber grommet things. Let's see if these work well or if they pool/leak water there and rust. It's all fixable but I hope it's this simple. Why do these holes even exist? Nobody knows.   I bought a bunch of plumber insulation from home depot so the cage wouldn't look like freddy kreuger after dragging the thing into the cab. I'd just painted the drat thing, no need for this. I've done this twice now, solo, and tree times total, so I know the technique and am sort of the local area expert of how my cage works. Even with this prestige I'm pretty sure I will need to repaint the cage again because the paint is matte, but that's an issue for another day.   And as usual with the tube couplers one of them had to cross-thread while re-assembling. But at least I finally had a reason to splurge on a massive tap kit.   A big worry of mine was again seeing if the frame tie-ins would still line up, and they did! So I welded those finally and painted them and installed.  And here is the final cage situation, freshly de-holed and painted interior and all:     Of course I had to leave for several weeks after this so the wind gently wafted off my poorly attached soft top and the tree above it shat berries and leaves all over everything, so these days it looks like Dirty Mike 'n The Boys had a soup kitchen in there. With the cage and interior now permanently tainted, I can move onto the cleanest Cummins in an 800 mile radius. Here are a few goodies I wanted to preinstall while the motor is still out. This is basically the default sims rear end npc check list of "what to do" to a 4bt to give it more power, so nothing very interesting here, but it was done. Something I will not do until I've broken the engine in is advancing any timing. First of all I'm not entirely sure what the current timing is because of a lack of data plates, but I also want to see if it needs it yet or not. This was a "4BTAA" spec engine so the timing could be a bit higher already? Not sure, anyway, easy to do later.  First and easiest was the govenor springs, if I put all these in, it will rev up to 4000rpm! So I chucked them all in for now.   Next were the standard 'white stripe' valve springs, gotta use them so you don't get an icky thump with the higher RPMs. Looks like white stripes are already installed in the exhaust valves, sweet, looks like me and this motor, we're going to be friends, saved myself 50% of the effort. Still had to take one out to check tho..   For example this is what the intake spring was like vs the exhaust:   I made the executive and easy decision to buy some premade motor mounts. I'll still have to build the frame side companions to keep them company, but these are nice. Driver side bolted on fine no issues, passenger side needed some clearancing from the turbo oil drain tube, which is an annoying tube with very few other options as far as design. My plasma cutter decided to go on strike during the holiday season, which I support, so It took about 3 years with an air powered small angle grinder scab tool - the only thing I could find that would fit and cut from an inside hole.   Went to install my cool new fuel plate that gives me 90000hp but the fuckin AFC unit screws are tamper proof for some dumbass reason so I've gotta go and buy some special bits to use exactly once for this purpose. Why?  This is the first sort of mock placement of belt accessories so I can plan for making the bracketry needed. Red pulley is in fact the waterpump, AC compressor bottom left, alternator top left, yellow circles a better location for tensioner, then harmonic dampener with tone ring for transmission. The harmonic dampener needs a bit of a spacer so the tone ring can clear the gear cover on the front - I'm hoping this isn't gonna cause any crazy issues pushing the dampener out a bit. I'll be building that soon. The tensioner is obviously not in its correct place and will also need a bit of bracketry to get right. I really don't know much about belt drive requirements, but it seems to me all the components have decent coverage for grip. I'm all ears for warning signs though! 
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Jan 2, 2022 08:52
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I don't know much about old Jeeps and I know even less about Cumminses, but this thread's awesome. Also,  at security pentalobes.
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Jan 2, 2022 18:09
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You will have issues with belt slippage with the a/c compressor running using that routing. The tensioner needs an idler in front of it between it and the crank pulley otherwise the crank pulley will directly act on the tensioner preventing it from working. the compressor may not have enough belt wrap. Sorry for the weird colors. here's a few alternates. This is actually pretty close to your original. It should work however it may need an idler to add a little extra wrap between the compressor and alternator.  Yet another alternate using the b-series fan pulley, the original tensioner placement, and another idler where below the compressor should yield good result. Downside is the belt is ultra long.  There's a mounting boss at the lower left of the block, that can probably house the tensioner and move it to the 'push' side of the belt if you wish to skip the original b series fan drive idler.  Note that with all of these the crank pulley is 'pulling' on a statically mounted pulley. be it an idler, or the alternator directly. preserve that regardless of what you go with. Try for at minimum one half to two thirds if not more of the compressor pulley wrapped with the drive belt.
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Jan 2, 2022 19:34
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I made the small but sturdy spacer for the fluidampr, the tone ring now clears the engine! I happened to have 2 perfectly sized circlular pieces of metal laying around. It's close but it works. It should be easy to make a tach sensor bracket when the sensor arrives.  I picked up the HF mega duty transmission jack to start removing all the links, connectors, tubes etc. to the C6 and selling it off. I figured the heavy duty one would serve me well in the future as an axle mover. I removed it all from the crossmember and managed to undo 6x of the bellhousing bolts. I'll have to find the rest of the bolts tomorrow, I'm sure its gonna be a pain in the arse. If I can't find them I'll have to pull the whole thing out as one, but I don't really have a place to store it yet.  cursedshitbox posted:You will have issues with belt slippage with the a/c compressor running using that routing. The tensioner needs an idler in front of it between it and the crank pulley otherwise the crank pulley will directly act on the tensioner preventing it from working. the compressor may not have enough belt wrap. Thanks for the wonderful drawings I like your first idea the most as it comes closest to my main goal of drawing out a shocked rabbit. It also seems easiest with the current parts I have laying around. Does this seem good enough? 
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Jan 3, 2022 01:06
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