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This will be a build thread for a Hans Wenger Chair #25. I figured I'd do a build thread as I've been doing a bit of research to try and figure out the correct sizing of this chair. This thread will be a spot where I can organize my thoughts and various sources as I try and figure things out. Here is the chair I will be building:    A bit about the chair designer Hans Wegner from wikipedia; quote:Hans Jørgensen Wegner (April 2, 1914 – January 26, 2007) was a Danish furniture designer. His work, along with a concerted effort from several of his manufacturers, contributed to the international popularity of mid-century Danish design. His style is often described as Organic Functionality, a modernist school with emphasis on functionality. And a bit about this particular chair; quote:The CH25 is one of the first four chairs Hans J. Wegner created exclusively for Carl Hansen & Søn at the beginning of the collaboration which started in 1949. The chair, considered revolutionary at the time, was put into production in 1950. I'm hoping by replicating a design by someone who is known for chairs that I will end up with something that not only looks nice, but also is very comfortable. The fact that this chair is still sold today I hope means that. See: https://www.carlhansen.com/ and https://www.1stdibs.com/buy/wegner-ch25/ My plan is to build the chair from walnut, similar to shown above. I also plan to weave the papercord myself, I've done a couple papercord weaving projects and it seems to be pretty forgiving, so hoping it goes well. My plan for the next few posts is to post some resources and my method for coming up with the plans, then I'll try to document the actual build and finally I'll post resources for weaving and document that.
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Jun 17, 2023 03:56
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It'll be very interesting to see your take on a design by one of the biggest guns of mid-century modernism. Best of luck!
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Jun 17, 2023 16:06
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Grain runout in the back leg is problematic, considering that average weight of a person is at least 20kg higher from when this was designed. I would try to source naturally curved wood for the leg/seat frames to minimize short grain, or insert some kind of reinforcement to the leg part. Cf rod and epoxy would probably work.
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Jun 17, 2023 17:44
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Ooh this looks neat! Hope your chair adventures finish faster than mine! How many mockups do you plan on making vs. how many do you think you'll actually wind up making before you try the real deal? Do you plan on copying the design exactly or adding your own little spin on it?
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Jun 19, 2023 01:51
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Kirov posted:Grain runout in the back leg is problematic, considering that average weight of a person is at least 20kg higher from when this was designed. I'm not too concerned about the runout, I'll do my best to keep the grain continuous, but won't be adding any reinforcements. If it breaks, that would be a good time to go to the effort of reinforcing it. My Maloof chair has a more dramatic curve and its been holding up fine, I'll keep my fingers crossed. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Ooh this looks neat! Hope your chair adventures finish faster than mine! How many mockups do you plan on making vs. how many do you think you'll actually wind up making before you try the real deal? Do you plan on copying the design exactly or adding your own little spin on it? I hope so, I don't really have the space to work on multiple projects, so once I start on this chair I'm working on it until I'm done. My plan was to jump straight into making the real deal, I think I have enough resources to compile some pretty accurate templates on making a near exact copy. The only thing I may change is the feet, I don't love the rounded look where it meets the floor. Next post or two will be all about the plans.
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Jun 20, 2023 03:42
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Where do you start on figuring out how to build this chair when you don't have access to one? Well it turns out the Carl Hansen, the company that has been building this chair has some a decent drawing on their website. Pretty decent for overall sizing and proportion, but certainly lacking details. A bit more research leads to the book "Hans J Wegner: et nordisk desihnkon fra Tonder", which actually has some of Wegner's original sketches. Some of the sketches are easily found online, like this one...CH25, perfect.  Well that was easy enough, let's take a closer look at the sketch. First off all, like the chair, it's beautiful, the flowing curves and angles are perfect to my eye. Secondly, there is a ton of information packed into this sketch, nearly everything you need to build the chair. On the top right you have what is obviously a side view showing the nice curves as well as the joinery, the side view even shows how much the top back rail curves out. Overlapping the side view on the left is a half front view, the chair being symmetric in that direction it only needs a half view. This view lines up with the side view so it is easy to pick out which part is which based on the heights as it can be busy. Across both the side and front view are various 'cuts' that show the cross section of the pieces. There are even smaller details called out, like a few pass through holes required for weaving on the back rails and on the side rails. The bottom half of the sketch shows a half top view, this gives the rest of the details for the wood pieces. It also gives some weaving details, roughly showing the warp locations and the locations of the L-nails, more on that later as I dive into the weaving stuff. There is also a bunch of illegible writing on it, I would love to know what is written as I bet it contains some useful information. Overall I was quite happy when I found this, however it still needs some work to scale up to a usable size (it's only 492px x 492px), but I also want to do some double checking with another source to make sure things line up.
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Jun 21, 2023 01:58
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Now that I have an original drawing of the chair, plus the overall size from the Carl Hansen website I can put the sketch into photoshop and resize the sketch so it is full scale. Then I place it on an Arch E size drawing (36" x 48") and it fits perfectly. I plotted 6 copies, figured I would want one to hang as reference, one to cut out the legs from, one to cut out the top half-scale pieces, and one to cut out the bottom half-scale pieces, plus a couple extra. I thought the full scale drawing would look much worse considering it was a tiny thumbnail blown up, but it's certainly usable in this state. The only open spot big enough in my shop to hang the full sheet is the garage door, which will work out nicely. I used this full size sheet to take some rough measurements for a lumber order.  In total I'd need 12 board feet of 6/4 primary wood, and 3 board feet of secondary, I can get away with a secondary wood because the danish cord will completely cover those parts. However, 3 board feet isn't going to break the bank, so I put in an order for 30 board feet of 6/4 walnut. Before I went too crazy starting to make templates and cutting up my new stash of walnut I wanted to do a couple spot checks on my full scale measurements. This brings me to my original inspiration and introduction to this chair. It came from a blog post on Caleb James ( https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/07/18/caleb-james-a-man-of-many-moves/). I originally wanted to build the CJ10 chair that it featured on the front of that blog post, but decided it would probably be a bit much with no real plans or resources. That is what pushed me to the CH25, which Caleb has also built and blogged about. In fact Caleb is currently working on a book and that book will feature the plans and measurements for the CH25...but I don't want to wait for it, so I'm trying my hand at this way. Check out Calebs chairs and benches, they are really nice https://calebjamesmaker.com/furniture Caleb will come up later as the weaving resource for this project. My spot checks for dimensions were pulled directly from some of Caleb's instragram posts on one of his chair builds. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bwun8cFJgU2/ I was lucky, and happy to find out that the scale drawing matched his dimensions. The next step was to cut out the paper pieces from the full scale drawing to use as templates. The scale drawing has centre lines, so by folding along those lines I could get a full size template of the half-templates on the drawing.  I was originally going to just use the paper as my template to transfer to the walnut, but about 4 months passed between the printing and the cutting, so the templates were curling up like crazy, I spray glued them on to some 1/4" plywood. Next step will be to cut these out, refine them and select my lumber. 
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Jul 5, 2023 02:05
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The blurry prints of the blown-up JPG look like really weird in an otherwise crisp photo. Almost like a video game with dodgy textures.
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Jul 5, 2023 13:30
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It's certainly a weird effect. Tonight I cut out the templates and cleaned them up. I rough cut them out on the bandsaw. Then cleaned them up using a spokeshave, rasp, sanding block and sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. The spokeshave and the dowel did most of the work here, this 1/4" plywood is terrible quality and pretty much just shattered at any attempt of rasping.  Roughed out.  My clean up tools. An oscillating spindle sander and a belt/disc sander would have made super quick work of the clean-up, but doing it by hand was quiet and enjoyable.  All cleaned up. Then I pulled out my walnut from the stack. It doesn't look like alot, but once the templates are on it does. The wide board is 11" wide for scale.  Next step will be to lay out the templates on the rough lumber, break it down and start milling. The idea will be to complete as much of the joinery as I can while things are still square and blocky to make it easier on myself. Then I'll do the shaping. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jul 6, 2023 |
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Jul 6, 2023 03:03
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I laid out my templates onto my lumber and traced them with chalk. It would have been great to get all the visible pieces from the same piece of lumber for optimal grain match, but that didn't work out. The piece on the left had nice tight grain I thought would look nice on the arms and front legs, I couldn't fit the back legs on that piece and I didn't like the grain on the big piece enough to use it for the arms and front legs. Not too much of an issue really, the pieces look quite close in colour anyway. I use chalk at this stage as I don't want to cut too close to my lines/templates so the thickness of the chalk gives me some wiggle room. I roughed cut them to size, I used the bandsaw and a bit of jigsaw for the cuts I couldn't do on the bandsaw. As you can see I didn't even cut close to my lines in some instances, this is because I want to be able to have a straight edge I can joint and use as a reference for laying out some joinery. Before I joint and plane everything I wrote on the endgrain of each piece, I wrote what piece it is, and the thickness so I can easily reference it while planing.  I'm glad I wrote on the endgrain, because once my chalk marks were planed off I had no clue which piece was which.  A couple pieces needed lamination, so I glued those up.  Now I can use my jointed edge to square up some edges to aid in joinery layout. Here you can see I'm using the square edge to put the end of the tenon on the backrest uprights.   I re-trace the templates using a fine point sharpie and mark out the joinery in detail.  I try and do as many mortises as I can using my mortiser while things are still blocky and square. In some instances I need to shim my workpieces so that the mortise layout lines are plumb with the mortiser chisel.  The first set of tenons that I cut are for the backrest uprights, I rough cut them on the bandsaw and then fine tune it with a shoulder plane until it fits nicely.  Once I have a nice fit I redraw most of my template lines again, because a good amount of the pieces are actually inset a bit so that the weaved cord is flush with the wood once it's done, so I use a piece of the danish cord to mark out the thickness I need to remove from the template lines. I go back to the bandsaw and cut really close to all my lines and put it together again so I can compare it to my template to make sure I'm on track.  Uh-oh, that's not right...maybe I just put the backrest in backwards...flip it around.  Much better...although the mortise for the armrest is on the wrong side  Crap! not a deal breaker, I'll need to patch this up later and re-cut the mortise. I am happy thought because it matches my template very nicely and not only that, both sides are nearly identical.   Now I do some more mortising for the legs, and the horizontal pieces. I lay the mortise out, then cut some holes at the drill press and clean them up with a chisel.  I cut and fit the leg joinery and the leg itself to size, I double check to ensure I don't do anything backwards. Once assembled each chair half matches my template nicely, it looks small for some reason, but I assure you it is the same size as the template and the measurements are true.  For the horizontal pieces it's very much the same process, I cut and fit the tenons while things are semi-square and chunky.  Then I rough saw them to shape.  Same thing for the head-rest. Don't be alarmed by the crack, it's merely a surface crack. I put the piece on the ground concave side down and jumped on it a few times to ensure it was structurally sound.  Before I can do the arms I need to repair the uprights and re-cut the mortises onto the right side. I cut off the protruding part, then I glue on a cap which I will re-cut to size. 
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Jul 10, 2023 00:43
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I put the piece on the ground concave side down and jumped on it a few times Ahh, woodworking. Looking good & going quick! Are you planning to make just the one?
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Jul 10, 2023 03:25
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ColdPie posted:Ahh, woodworking. Thanks, wife and kids are gone for a few days, so I'm spending more time than usual in the shop. I'm planning on just the one, but if it's comfortable enough and my wife likes it I may make a second one, so we have a pair. Once the glue for my repair dried, in true idiotic fashion I cut the arm mortise on the wrong said again, through my repair....no big deal, I'm an expert at this exact repair.  I finally managed to cut the mortises for the arms on the right sides. I roughed the arms out to shape and cut and fit the arm tenons. Starting to really look like something!  Before I can attach the arms to the front legs I need to full fit the arms and taper them. The mortises for the arms are angled, but the tenons are not, when I initially cut the tenons I left the shoulder square, but that doesn't allow it to full seat. So I partially seat the arm and use a piece of 1/2" ply to mark the shoulder location.  Once I cut that, I taper the arms, the fronts are about 7/8" thick and the back is 1 1/4". I rough cut the taper on the bandsaw and clean it up using handplanes.  Now I can drill for the dowels between the legs and the arms, also for the seat's back stretcher. I use dowel centres for this and managed not to screw anything up.  Another test assembly and I can mark the shoulders/tenons for the front stretcher and cut them. Looking a bit chunky now.  Then it's time for a lot of shaping, as it sits now (  ) most of the parts are shaped and recessed in one plane. I need to do a bit of shaping in the other plane, it's mostly doing recessed areas for the cord to sit. I could do this with a router table, but I've been enjoying all the bandsaw use on this project, so I cut the recesses on the bandsaw and clean them up a bit with a plane. I am cutting a curved parts here, so what I do is make sure that the concave side it down so that my workpiece is supported at two points, if I were to cut concave up and only have it supported on one point the force of the bandsaw could make it come down violently. Here is another test fit. Before I can refine the shapes further with roundovers I need to cut a few pass-throughs. The intersection of the legs/seat, will cause interference with the danish cord wrapping, so a passthrough is needed so the cord can still wrap around. Another pass through is done on the back, this is because the back is weaved on both sides and this allows any knots to be hidden, you'll see later. I drill some overlapping holes at the drill press and clean them up with a chisel. Finally a couple holes are drilled for a couple of steel bars that will aid with the seat weave.  I am almost done all the joinery for the chair, I'll do the last piece later, the backrest bottom stretcher as it just gets pocket screwed in. So that means I am at the stage where I can roundover everything and sand. The recessed areas get about a 3/16" roundover and the non-recessed areas get about a 5/16" roundover. I am doing this all by hand, so it is mostly eyeballing, my spokehave is getting heavy use at this stage. I am trying my best to get the roundover to match the cord, I use a small piece of the cord to check my progress. 
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Jul 12, 2023 23:27
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The shaping continues, the pile of shavings grows. Then a whole bunch of sanding takes place. I hand sand everything to 320. A box fan with filter does a good job of keeping the air clean.  I do a final fit now that everything is shaped, I can't resist bringing it into the house and putting it in its future home to make sure it fits.  Last thing to do before starting the glue-ups is to cut my 5/16" steel rod to length and make sure it fits.  The first glue-up is gluing the verticals to the back legs. The recesses for the cord provide the perfect spot for my clamp so I am able to glue up both at the same time, ensuring they're identical over the full scale drawing.  You may be wondering why I did not drill a pass-through for the arm/back intersection like I did for the legs/base. The back rests don't have the meat for that, a slot in it would reduce the strength. To solve that issue there is little blocks that attach to the insides, they are glued and screwed on.  Then I glue-up the horizontals, the front arms and legs don't get glued on until the weaving is completed. My bench top is not the flattest, so I glue it up on a flat piece of 3/4" plywood using a couple shims to raise the front, this is to make sure the frame is not twisted during glue-up  I'm away from my shop for the next little bit, so I am very happy with where I am leaving things. The frame is essentially done (just needs a very small amount of work for the backrest lower stretcher). Next step will be to finish it, then I can start the weaving. I need to order more cord, but I have enough to start the weaving, there will be some initial planning/layout I need to do with the cord before I can dive in.
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Jul 14, 2023 16:08
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Back in the shop. I ordered the Danish cord and L-nails to get ready for the weaving. While I was waiting I put the finish onto the frame, 2 coats of Osmo PolyX hardwax oil. Looks nice. Once the finish has cured and my supplies arrive I can start the weave. Caleb James comes to the rescue again on this one, he has a great article on Popular Woodworking that outlines the process. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/paper-cord-weaving/ I will generally be following this guide, however there are a few differences which I must sort out before I begin. My chair differs in size, and it also tapers from front to back. This doesn't really affect the weave, but it affects the first part, the warp. The warp is pairs of cord that are spaced out, the weave is weaved between the warp and is not spaced out. On a rectangular seat it's easy enough to just start the warp and modify the spacing as you go, the cord can compress a bit so if you need an extra wrap it's not too big a deal. Since its not a big deal it's easy enough to just use a ruler to mark the warp locations and hope it works out. The cord is a weird size and I haven't had great results doing that, so for this one I am going to do a test wrap and mark the warp locations using the actual cord. I clamp the chair over my bench and start wrapping, I only use 60' of cord at a time (ten arm lengths) using more gets to be unmanagable.   Once I am done I can count the number of wraps and figure out the spacing. Generally you want a warp (2 wraps) then a 4 wrap spacing, then you can use a 3 or 5 as needed to fill it out. Another benefit of doing this test wrap is that I want the warps to be parallel, if I make the front and the back the same the warps will match the taper and will be angled toward each other. I end up with 118 wraps on the front and 105 on the back, so for the warps to be parallel there needs to be a 6 space offset. That seems like a lot so I check it using a couple straightedges lined up on the 6th wrap and something is off. Not only is the front stretcher wider, it has a much more pronounced curve so it would have more wraps even if the seat did not taper :facepalm: I use the straightedges and figure out I need a 3 spacer offset to make things relatively parallel. An excel sheet and a bit of trial and error comes up with my spacing. The back is smaller so every few spacers has one less wrap, so things should stay parallel enough.  I use an awl to mark the warp locations and some blue tape to mark my spaces so I don't get lost.  Then I removed all the wrapping and pounded in some L-nails.  Now I can start the actual wrap, for this method the spacing gets wrapped, then the warp is run between it from front to back around the nails. Some methods the spacing and warp are run at the same time, we'll see how this works out. The first few wraps go around the end of the cord to secure it in place.  It keeps going until the front is done, this is where I left it for the evening. 
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Aug 4, 2023 03:16
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amazing job so far, it looks great
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Aug 4, 2023 15:47
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Boredumb posted:amazing job so far, it looks great Thanks! The weaving continued, the spacers were wrapped at the back.  Then the the full length warp could be run. The cord runs from the back, over the front, then hooks onto a nail and goes to the back to create a pair. Then it goes to the next gap and repeats.  Here is a shot of the underside showing the nail wrap. This goes pretty quick compared to the wrap as the full 60' does not need to be pulled through each time as it's just a hook around.  All done.  Now I can start on the weave, the weave is a pair of cord then is weaved between the warp. Instead of using hooks, the weave wraps around the steel bars after each run. For the weave 60' of cord is used at a time and it is fed through as shown below, the 'front' is weaved through to the end and then the rest of the cord is pulled through. The weaving starts off easy and progressively gets tougher, as the warp gets tighter under the tension of the weaves. There is also less room to work with, eventually you can barely fit your fingers and you have to feed the very ends of the cord through which is a bit more tedious.  A shot of the underside showing the steel bars.  Things were a bit slower when I had to use the pass-through, this is where the leg joins so the area at the bottom must remain open for the subsequent glue-up.   Complete!  Here is a shot of the underside, you can see where I had to splice in more cord, I'll be tucking that in eventually. I also need to run a steel wire between the bars as a next step. 
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Aug 5, 2023 03:35
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Continuing the weaving, I add a steel wire between the bars below the seat, a clamp puts some pressure on the bars and then the wire is added. This will stiffen up the seat weave. Now I add the bottom stretcher for the backrest, it's just pocket screwed in place. I don't know if this is how it's done on the original, but its what Caleb James does and if it's good enough for him, its good enough for me.  Next I start the wrap, then warp of the backrest. It starts in a similar fashion to the seat, I do a full wrap to count, then off to excel, I'm not as concerned with the parallelism, as the back is not tapered, but I am concerned with getting a warp-wrap-warp on the pass through. Once I figure that out, I get on to the actual wrapping. There is no L-nails on the backrest as it is weaved on both sides. The bottom gets wrapped, and the wrap and warp get done at the same time on the top. Instead of wrapping around L-nails the warp passes from the top, around the bottom, then repeats to make a pair. The pass-through is a bit different, it allows the cord to pass through the middle of the seat unseen. This is so the back can get a huge warp, 8 cord wide. As the seat is weaved on both sides there isn't a good place for splicing in more cord, so this big warp allows the knots to be hidden.   Once the warp is all done, the weave can begin. It is similar to the seat, except instead of going around a bar and returning over the top, it works across the back and back up the front.  Here is a backside shot where you can see the 8 cord wide warp.  This is where 200 metres gets me, the whole seat plus six weaves on the backrest. I probably should have done a calculation rather than just thinking that 200 metres sounded like a lot. More cord on order... 
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Aug 9, 2023 20:38
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i love modern furniture and holy hell this is incredible work
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Aug 10, 2023 20:37
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My new roll of cord arrived so I continued to weave the backrest. It was pretty uneventful except that the dwindling roll of my new cord made me a bit nervous that I would need another roll, but I didn't need any more, the total cord was just under 400 metres.   Progress was fairly quick until the end, things slow down when there isn't much room to work, plus the back was also closing in as well. So getting my fingers in that tight space to weave took patience and effort.  I kept at it and completed it. Here is a front shot, you can see that I should have used a bit more spacing for the outer warps, they sort of snake along instead of staying parallel and straight like the inner warps.  Here is the back, all the knots are hidden under the 8 wide warp as mentioned earlier. To create a bit of visual interest every 6, then 12 weaves the wide warp gets broken up by weaving through it. However, it does create a sizeable gap so not sure how I feel about it.  One thing I forgot to mention is that there is two types of cord, laced and unlaced. Laced is more rope like and wrapped tighter than the unlaced, but it is thicker. I used laced, the original and Caleb James both used unlaced which may make the gaps a bit smaller when weaving through the wide warp. For the laced cord I used between 100 and 120 wraps on the warps, unlaced would have been 150+, so I definitely saved time and effort going with the laced cord. It took me just under 8 hours to weave the seat and backrest. I'm in the home stretch...time to glue up the arms and front legs. This went smoothly, I did a practice run, but a relatively simple glue-up compared to some of the bigger carcass pieces I've built recently. It's looking very nice so far. 
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Aug 11, 2023 21:50
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awesome!! really looks good
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Aug 12, 2023 23:51
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One of the last things to do was level the legs. I put the chair on a flat surface, usually I use my table saw, but this was too big so I'm using a piece of 3/4 plywood (the waxed paper is on it because I use this piece of plywood as a platen for my vacuum press). The chair was flat on my surface so I picked an appropriate spacer to level things. A 1/4" piece of plywood works for getting the front legs flat so I used that in conjunction with a flush cut saw. At this stage I'm just running kerfs all around each leg, maybe 1/3 through.  Once I do all the legs I cut all the way through, then sit it on a spacer so it doesn't rock while the other legs are cut.  In hindsight I should have changed up the back leg template a bit to allow a bigger flat section to seat on. I mentioned earlier in the thread that I didn't like the round look of the originals, so I left it straighter on my template, but really should have altered it more.  Then I cut some cork to glue onto the leg bottoms. I use cork on the bottom of most of my furniture; it's wood base so it glues easy, it's non-scratching, and it's also grippy so things tend to stay in place. Blue tape and the weight of the piece provide good clamping pressure.   Now it's done!! However, before I truly consider it done I need to take some nice photos. Taking nice photos goes a long way in showing your work, and spending a couple hours doing photos after 40 hours of working on a piece is nothing really. I set up my backdrop holder, which is a ladder, some wood scraps and a bunch of clamps.  Then I roll out some newsprint and tape it on. I try not to crease it, but don't worry too much as photoshop will make quick work to clean-up the seams and creases.  Then set up my led photo lights and place the chair on for photos. 
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Aug 14, 2023 04:01
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After a few minutes of photoshop here are the nice photos.       Overall, I am very pleased with how it turned out, and the best part is that it is actually quite comfortable...and that it didn't break when I first sat on it. Some reflections on the build: - Consider using loose tenons/dominoes if I were to make another. Marking the joinery for integral tenons was one of the bigger pains in the build. - Better template and mark out where areas need to be recessed. I feel like some of my components are a bit thinner than the original because I was willy nilly making templates from that huge low res drawing. - Investigate unlaced danish cord for more weaves and more effort
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Aug 14, 2023 04:10
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It's turned out absolutely lovely. Nice job.
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Aug 14, 2023 13:55
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Fantastic work, congrats!
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Aug 14, 2023 18:30
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Just read through the thread, linked from the woodworking thread. It's an excellent project. How do you feel about the offset of that extra-wide 8-wide warp on the back? If I was doing this project my OCD would have insisted it had to be centered, or do two of them one on each side, although maybe the offset adds visual interest? Have you sat in it much yet? Is it as comfy as it looks? Do you leave the cordage raw or is there any sort of finish or wax or something to be applied, for protection or whatever?
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Aug 15, 2023 19:29
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Leperflesh posted:Just read through the thread, linked from the woodworking thread. It's an excellent project. How do you feel about the offset of that extra-wide 8-wide warp on the back? If I was doing this project my OCD would have insisted it had to be centered, or do two of them one on each side, although maybe the offset adds visual interest? Thanks for reading along. I like the offset and it hadn't even occurred to me to move it, or change it in that regard. Although I like that sort of asymmetry, I've built a small chest of drawers with two drawers offset in a similar fashion and think it looks pretty neat. It is actually quite comfortable, I've spent the past couple evenings sitting in it on the computer. Which is a huge success for me as I've built a couple chairs in the past that looked nice but were not comfortable to sit in. The cord has just the right amount of give to provide good support but be comfortable. However, the weave is textured, so after sitting in it for a while I notice the texture, I'm really lean though, so someone with more natural cushioning might not notice the texture at much or at all. The cord has a wax applied to it at the factory for some light protection. I am concerned that me or my kids might spill something on it, so we'll see how it fairs when that day comes, at the end of the day it's only a few hours to reweave (plus then maybe I'd teach my kids how to re-weave it). I've read that the cord has about a lifespan of 60-75 years in normal use, so someone at some point will be re-weaving this thing if it stands the test of time.
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Aug 16, 2023 01:40
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Awesome, thanks! I guess sometimes asymmetry looks like a mistake, but in this case it's so tidy and clear that it's intentional that it's not really an issue.
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Aug 17, 2023 23:27
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This thread made me buy "just one good chair", just in case you want to repeat the experiment Meow, these are the two CH25 pages 
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Aug 19, 2023 07:34
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Wow that thing looks great! Nice job!
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Aug 26, 2023 01:35
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Great work, that will be in the family for many years to come
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Aug 26, 2023 18:57
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