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New post time. This is something that was kinda spur of the moment. The asphalt bit I use on my machine keeps breaking because it (the machine) has too much torque so I keep bending the piece holding the tooth. The part that actually does lost of the work. I'm going to donate it to a machine that broke another one I made years ago. I made that one with a round tube for the shaft part instead of the solid hex bar that I make them from now. It bent really bad one time and I fixed it. It bend again, a few months ago. Not quite so bad, but bad enough that it can't really be used and its no longer fixable. Its not done yet and I might break this up, even the stuff that I've already finished, in to a couple posts because I'm lazy. Implements of construction: some auger flight material, 1 5/8" hex bar, a female hex socket and a "blade" cutting tooth. And a bunch of other random garbage on the work bench.  Gotta cut that flight.  Hex bar tacked in to the socket. I'm no good at this part for some reason and the old "a grinder and paint......." applies.  Gotta drill that shaft baby.   The tooth will fit over this corner edge. I had to weld to build up the edge then grind to an angle, the weld and grind and weld and grind.    Gotta drill through the flight so I can bolt the tooth on. This didn't work. Got to give my new Milwaukee drill a workout with this thing in a vise.   Doing some fit up   Getting ready to tack weld the flights on.     Cut a second layer of flighting to go on top of the first. It doesn't fit neatly on top so I had to clamp the poo poo out of it.  Then do this:  All cooled off. Mostly.  Marked and drilled the hole for the double flight and cleaned up to get to welding   Second layer bolted on ready to weld.   Whats under that slag?   Pretty good  Not that good  Not bad.  Now I have a big gap to fill in.  Some 1/4" round bar to the rescue.   Filled in. I've done better. Done worse too.  Thats all folks.
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Dec 30, 2023 23:16
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The best part is if you are too lazy to grind your welds smooth, the spoil will do it for you!
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Dec 31, 2023 07:01
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kastein posted:The best part is if you are too lazy to grind your welds smooth, the spoil will do it for you! Yeah, back in the day when we would use casing to drill through sand, the sand would polish or otherwise smooth out the gouges made by the 36 and 48" pipe wrenches. The casing came out of the hole all shiny too!
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Dec 31, 2023 23:44
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When they talk about hack jobs, they can use a picture of this for an example. My hardfacing bench is almost done. It needs some finishing touches, some adjustments and so on, but its almost done. One thing I needed was a small pulley to fit on the motor that was going to turn this thing. Gear box on the motor had a 10mm shaft with a 4mm key. Thats not very common. At least not around here or anywhere I knew to look. Amazon provided a pulley with the right bore but no keyway. No big deal right? Just take it to the machine shop we normally use and they can cut a key way in it. Except not. They didn't have the poo poo to cut a key way that small. They used to use a place for that, but that place now only does big industrial poo poo and not one off stuff and I didn't want to spend like 300 bucks to cut a key way in a 20 dollar pulley. So my That lasted about 5 minutes before I said gently caress that poo poo. I know how a broach works having done it in high school machine shop class once. But I ain't got no fuckin broach. Aluminum is soft though right? I can use a piece of steel and cut something in there maybe. Looking over the scrap metal bench I found just the thing. A skate blade. It was just about the right size. I cut it and used the bench grinder to cut something resembling a tooth in the end. As normal, I'm a horrible photographer but there is my implement of destruction. It was just a bit too wide to fit in the hole on its own, but since I was going to be hacking out a piece of this anyway, it worked out good.  After hacking out some of this thing I had to shove a bit of something behind my skate blade hack broach to dig deeper but that didn't work. So I had to just hammer on a bit of an angle to dig in and then tilt it back to vertical once it started cutting. In the end, the blade was a bit too narrow (3.5mm) and I still had to do some filing, but my aluminum haxor skillz saved a lot of work filing and clogging the poo poo out of them, brushing them off, filing, clogging etc.. The end result.  My tool, and the pulley on the shaft  Next up the motor needs a ground. I finally had a use for some of the blue 18 gauge wire I had left over from my boat battery charger install.   Comes out of the sheathing just like as if it came from the factory like that.   The connector didn't come with a spare pin for the ground going towards the control box, but its all grounded up now and have continuity from the ground screw on the motor, through the control box, through the foot pedal (when the pedal is pressed) all the way to the ground prong on the plug. Hells yeahs! This thing might almost be safe now!  So speaking of key ways, the machine shop had no problem turning this shaft down to fit the bore on the Canadian Tire pulley I picked up and cutting a key way on the outside. Once again, my photography is awful. Sorry.  Theres a bolt and a washer covering that now.  Its almost done now. There are some final adjustments that need doing, I have to mount the motor platform permanently (weld that bitch on in the right spot) and then mount the motor in such a way that I can take up slack when the belt inevitably stretches   The purpose of this whole thing is to turn the augers slowly as I apply hardfacing materials on to the outer edge of them. I've since gotten the motor mounted (but the platform not permanently secured yet) and done a bit of testing. I'm possibly going to have to get a larger top pulley to slow this down some more as with the current set up its still a bit too fast for stick welding even with the motor control set on the lowest setting. Mig I think would be fine, because I could turn up the feed to compensate. Thats how I did that many years ago at my old job. Stick on the other hand is not quite that fast.
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Jan 17, 2024 04:10
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Now you just need to add a lathe style auto feed to move right-left and sit back while your earth sodomizer prayer wheel machine does all the work. The welds might not come out as well but that's the price of progress.
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Jan 17, 2024 11:44
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wesleywillis posted:
An intermittent connection like that could blow the fuse. Also, this is why electronics-grade silicone adhesive was invented, or hot glue, lol. I can't believe I missed this thread. The title doesn't help. I used to do a ton of sediment sampling underwater, mostly vibracoring and trad grab/box cores. Drill rigs were always around, but I never had the desire to learn about them. Geoprobe rig on a small barge with some crusty dudes from Maine, drilling holes.
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Jan 19, 2024 14:41
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kastein posted:Now you just need to add a lathe style auto feed to move right-left and sit back while your earth sodomizer prayer wheel machine does all the work. The welds might not come out as well but that's the price of progress. I've been thinking of getting something that'll just hook over the centre tube and the flights will pull it along as it turns. sharkytm posted:An intermittent connection like that could blow the fuse. Also, this is why electronics-grade silicone adhesive was invented, or hot glue, lol. I think that red poo poo is the glue you're talking about. The manufacturer suggested that might be the case as well (about the fuse) but its a wireless remote. Yeah, the thread title isn't particularly alluring but eh, whatever. We've got a couple Geo Probe 6620s. One currently getting refurbished and one that some idiot I work with allowed to over heat and cracked the head. So its getting a new engine.
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Jan 20, 2024 01:58
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wesleywillis posted:I've been thinking of getting something that'll just hook over the centre tube and the flights will pull it along as it turns. It looks like insulating varnish, which gets used like that, specifically on hardware. It doesn't do well on big connectors which see lots of impact (like a wireless remote).
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Jan 20, 2024 13:34
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So it all started when I wanted to fix a piece of threaded rod that was holding down a home made bracket used to secure the battery. I took the bracket off, and had to remove the battery so I could cut the remnants of the threaded rod since the nuts were seized on it anyway. Then I saw that the battery tray underneath the battery was rusted to hell. Back in the spring a guy that no longer works with the company who shall be referred to as "poo poo nuts" spent the better part of a month with an angle grinder and a flap disc sanding the poo poo out of this thing and getting red dust everywhere in the shop. Then painting it. There are runs everywhere but anyway, he forgot to sand and paint under the battery. This is the second time in the last few years that this thing has been the victim of an unfortunate paint job. The time before this, the guy doing it (shittier nuts) didn't even bother to clean the thing off first and was literally painting over dirt and grease. But this post isn't for me to bitch about people who I would like to see burn to death. When you last encountered this thing in this thread, poo poo nuts had rolled it over a few days before and I was at some backyard in the middle of Toronto trying to get it started. It didn't work and sat most of the summer before finally getting moved and taken to an Isuzu shop to be repaired. Its our oldest track mounted drill (delivered in fall of 2005) and has been fairly neglected the last few years besides whatever repairs and maintenance (oil changes) were necessary to keep it running but now I'm in the shop more often and going earth sodomizing less. I had planned on draining the hydraulic oil and changing the tank filter, changing the oil in the tracks and the winch and it would be "good". But then I started taking this thing apart and the deeper I went, the more poo poo I saw that needed to be done. I don't have pics of everything obviously but I don't really want to get my phone covered with poo poo. Most of what I've done is change hoses that might be almost old enough to drink in this province. Also a bunch of detail poo poo like looking at hoses and where they're going to see if they are rubbing up against something. Years ago I was out on a site on a Saturday and a hose that was rubbing up against the hydraulic tank decided that was the time to go and it was fun wasting time on a Saturday trying to find a place that was open and could make a new hose. Not having the right tools to change it (but we still got it done) added to the joy obviously. Or some hoses being changed hastily and run through randoms spots and get in the way of other things. It also offends my sensibilities to see hoses wrapped around other hoses rather than run side by side with their "companion" hoses and so on. Anyway heres some pics, my usual disclaimer of "I suck at photography" applies. Control panel cover is already off.  It all starts with one set of hoses.  Thats not good.  Hoes removed   New ones  Theres a crack in there  It needs to be welded, but my legions of loyal fans will agree with me that someone better at welding should probably do it.  That cylinder is leaking.  Those hoses down there need to get tossed too.    Spent a bit of time in the parts washer  Theres that battery tray that needed paint.  More hoses that need replacement  Replacements  BLING BLING  Seeing these hoses all new, and straight and held in place by cable clamps neat and tidy makes me hard.    Gotta take off the cross bars on this hose track to replace the hoses to the rotation motor.  This wasn't the result I wanted, but it wasn't surprising either  Ive gota few more days worth of replacing hoses and re-routing those that might be in bad spots before I can drain the tank, change the filters and fire things up to bleed the cylinders that had new lines to them. Once I'm done with this I've got some wiring and a bit of fuel system work to do. Theres a remote control for this that doesn't work. I plan on fixing that. The wiring harness is a bit if a mess. Problem is, it works fine so I might just leave it be and just clean it up/ route it somewhere that its not in the way. Theres also a leak in a fuel line. Want to replace that with a banjo fitting and I think there is a little electric fuel pump thats not putting out what it used to. On the subject of Geoprobes, I mentioned that we have two 6620s. One being extensively refurbished while the other had a cracked cylinder head after poo poo nuts over heated it a while back and its been getting an engine replacement. Well, the Kubota place got a new engine, installed it and started it up to make sure everything was good. And it dropped a valve in to the cylinder and destroyed a brand new engine. It was the last one in North America so they're going to have to get a new engine
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Feb 2, 2024 03:46
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At least it happened before they gave it back so they couldn't claim it was you guys ragging on it that caused it. Those energy chains are so cool until you have to gently caress with them at which point it is always a complete shitfest. I've seen ones that clip, screw, and slot together and not one of them is actually any fun to work on once they are severely filthified. How are you gonna get the busted screws out, the usual weld and pray and turn tricks? Seems kind of hard to do with no good way to get a ground clamp on. edit: or are those crossbars in there metal? Almost looks like it.
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Feb 2, 2024 10:20
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They are neat how those things work. We actually had a rep from igus (one of multiple companies that make that sort of thing) at the shop yesterday to look at that track because it's old and beat to poo poo so we're getting new stuff. I find it's easy to work with if you can get the screws out (you can't if it's been there for a while) or if it's the plastic product which is still pretty durable. They really do fuckin suck to work on when they're dirty though. Igus rep was here a few weeks ago too to look at another machine that needs some track and he showed us a sample of some uhhhhh "non-linear" (?) Chain. Stuff that would let's say flex forward and backwards but also side to side, on angles and what not. A half dozen links of that poo poo could be the new fidget spinners
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Feb 2, 2024 15:20
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Photo dump of more hose replacements and poo poo. New hoses going to the rotation motor. Thank gently caress for crow foot wrenches  Surgical zipties to keep the hoses in the track until the new stuff arrives   Those will have to be covered in Spiral wrap before I put the tower cylinder back in.  Decided that while I'm in there, I might as well get the oil cooler cleaned out.  That bottom fitting is going to get replaced with a 45* fitting. The way it goes, or went, was the hose comes up out of the cooler, does a 90, goes in between a uhhhh thing and another thing before doing a second 90. The 90s are not super abrupt corners, but the way it was, the hose was kinda pinched in between the (engine) radiator cover and a piece of frame. It was wearing away at the hose as well as the rad cover AND the frame. Sounds weird that rubber would wear away steel but theres a few spots where hoses are rubbing against metal poo poo and wearing the metal bits, as well as the hose. One more thing I want to change to make it less likely that a hose will rub through and blow out on site. A 45 will give the hose a more direct path to a filter, which then empties in to a return manifold and then back in to the tank.  Some old hoses  More hoses replaced.   The hose in the foreground in this pic is the one that comes off the bottom of the oil cooler.  One of the fittings was super tight and I didn't have enough in me (getting old and decrepit) to hold one wrench while pulling the other.  That held good 
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Feb 6, 2024 03:57
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Abrasive dust works wonders making rubber cut into things. You'd never expect it but apparently my heater core hoses have been rubbing on my valve cover for long enough that it's actually eroded the metal a bit. I'm curious - did you have a local hose shop do all the hoses a few at a time, buy premade from the manufacturer, or just get a hose crimping machine? The sheer number of hoses you've replaced might have paid for a machine all by itself by now.
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Feb 6, 2024 06:49
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Got a local place to do them. You're right though, this probably would have paid for itself had we gotten a crimper. We've talked about getting a crimper before but we don't really do that many hoses, this being an exception obviously. But then we need to keep 5 different hose sizes in stock, plus a ton of different fittings and though Im familiar with stuff like ORB, ORFS, JIC and whatnot, I typically don't have any ideas as to the sizes, threads etc. I guess I'd learn but it would be a pain in the arse to deal with it for a while. I lost count in the middle of last week sometime, but I'm probably up to 5-6000 in hoses for this thing now. Plus the cylinder rebuild and oil cooler cleaning and testing.
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Feb 6, 2024 18:17
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wesleywillis posted:Got a local place to do them. You're right though, this probably would have paid for itself had we gotten a crimper. Missed the "in" between hoses and 5-6000 the first time I read this and briefly thought you had replaced 5500+- hoses in this thing. Still, yeah that's a lot of cash.
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Feb 8, 2024 05:56
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E: ^^^^^^^ I'm tempted to ask my boss for a final tally on hoses, but I don't want to give him a heart attack especially since we're slow as gently caress right now. I forget where I left off, but heres a bunch more pics of poo poo I did that last few days. As far as I can tell I'm done with the hydraulics except for the hose track but we haven't even ordered it yet so it might be a bit. I started on the fuel pump but didn't take many pics of that. Or at least not yet. Maybe I will. I can't remember if I've mentioned this before but I can see why various project threads seem to blueball people. Its a lot of work taking pics while in the middle of poo poo, uploading and posting them. Draining the hydraulic tank  Filter goes in here  New and old filter   Oldie  Assembled  That hole above the filter is for the return manifold.  That hoe(s) gonna be doing a lot of suckin. Now was the time to replace it obviously because I can only do it with the tank drained.  This hose was a MF to change. Probably the hardest to get at. Thank gently caress once again for crow foot wrenches.  These hoses all loose and flopping around offends my sensibilities. There used to be a nice custom bracket to hold them in place, but this thing as mentioned was the victim of an unfortunate paint job by poo poo nuts who removed said bracket and didn't bother putting it back. Its now lost.    Carbide tipped centre punch  The punch mark is off centre a bit BECAUSE OF loving COURSE IT IS  So of course the hole I drilled is too.      While I'm in there..... gently caress this is how things start.  Rad fins are now slightly straighter.  OIl cooler is back. It also had some bent rear end fins. I was able to save some but not others.  Tower cylinder.  Things are coming together and almost ready to fill with oil and start this bitch up X marks the spot, or marks which fittings I double checked to make sure they were tight?  That hose needs to go somewhere and its offending me being unsupported like that.  Much better  Hydraulic tank has been filled.  Battery in. This whole fuckin thing started because one of the old pieces of threaded rod that holds down the battery was hosed up, so I had to remove both of them, and then I saw things....... I was planning on changing the hydraulic oil and filter and the winch oil and track gear box oil and calling it good. That was like 2 weeks ago.  Start up was uneventful. I cracked some fittings and let out as much air as I could to bleed them but its not perfect. After cycling poo poo for a while, I shut down with the cylinders retracted and did other things for a while. No noticeable leaks and only the feed cylinder creeped, but I didn't do anything with that anyway so gently caress it. I hooked up two out of 6 cylinders backwards, but one was the tower cylinder and it and the hoses were gone for a week so I have an excuse for forgetting. The other one was my fault. I thought I was keeping track, but whatever the gently caress. I can change them around later. On to the fuel pump.  THis is a little electric fuel pump that had to be replaced a few (several) years back when it stopped working the way it was supposed to and the engine started stalling.  I drained the tank and then decided to replace the fuel lines. And took the fuel/water separator apart. Its also got some sort of sediment filter in there. Or it at least has a little screen that does whatever but also happens to be fine enough to filter out sediment. It had a bunch of sand in it because motherfuckers don't bother cleaning their gloves off before opening the fuel tank or fiddling with the nozzle on jerry cans before filling the tank. Gee, I wonder why the electric pump is failing? Its still working for now but the machine has stalled out a bunch of times according to a guy from work. I'll probably get an inline filter to go between the fuel tank and the pump, but thats all till next week. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 03:15
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On the cylinders you hooked up backwards you don't have to replace the hoses again right? They both have the same fitting and both go into the same deck of the massive shuttle valve assembly or whatever and you just swap them? I can wrangle electrons but hydraulics scare the hell out of me and I try not to touch them, but I'd like to learn more. So far my hydraulic-touching has been limited to disassembling things, replacing one hose in a certain area at a time, putting everything back how it was, and hoping I don't do something stupid and get an injection injury.
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Feb 10, 2024 03:44
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Yeah, the majority of the hoses I've replaced have all had the same size fittings and thread. I'll just swap the hoses to different sides on the cylinders in question. Or if I want I could change them around on the valve, but gently caress that. I like my poo poo to look as uniform as possible. My 13/16" and big adjustable wrench did like 90% of the work on this project. Your systems may vary but it seems really dumb to have fittings of two different sizes or types on the same cylinder, or valve etc. But you never know what someone will come up with.
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Feb 10, 2024 04:27
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More stuff today. Heres the water separator. Water goes from the fuel tank, through the electric pump and in to here along with fuel and settles to the bottom. That red plastic ring is lighter than water and will rise up to indicate water in the bowl and the little wing nut looking thing is a drain valve that you can drain water out from. I don't have any pics of it, but there was a bunch of sand and poo poo in it  How it got through that fine rear end mesh I'll never know.  I have deduced that the sand and crap in there must have come from the fuel tank through the pump and in to the separator. Though the fuel pump has not completely failed, it was exhibiting signs of impending failure. The guys I work with aren't particularly diligent about using clean gloves, wiping off the jerry can spouts, or wiping around the fuel tank opening when dumping fuel in this thing. Time to put a filter between the tank and the pump. Hopefully nobody takes offense to my using a Kubota branded filter on an Isuzu engine.  New pump has been installed along with a couple new lines   Inline filter in place   Hose going through that hole gonna rub. Need to do something about that.     I decided to shorten the run between the filter and the pump to keep things a bit further from the exhaust.  That T fitting constantly leaks. I can tighten it down, but then its in a funny spot and it always comes loose. Its not in the pic right now, but the air filter housing butts right up against the hose that comes off the fitting. So its hard to tighten it properly.  I was hoping to get a double banjo fitting that way I could angle the hoses any way I wanted but the thread on the T fitting was tapered. It wasn't even NPT but apparently a BSP thread. gently caress. But I managed to get this contraption which should work.  You can now see the air filter housing and how it would get in the way.  ITS ALL DOPED UP The arrows were so I could crank it down and make sure things were pointing in the right direction.  More coming up sometime soon.
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Feb 13, 2024 03:09
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I finished up the fuel system a few days ago and got to work on the remote. Here's the last of the fuel system stuff. I pulled the fuel tank off and it was full of poo poo so I cleaned it out best I could and then had to wait a day or two for a few of these to show up. THey're rubber isolation mounts. Two of the four were broken. Once I got them I could start putting things back together. I'd already done all the lines I just had to connect the feed and return line.  Tank mounted up. I had to put a couple washers in there as the threads were a bit long.  Feed line  Return line. The barb fiting for the return was smaller than the rubber hose so I had to clamp the poo poo out of it.  The tank had the poo poo cleaned out of it, so I wanted to make sure the fuel I dumped in it would be free of sediment and poo poo. This is what came out of the tank. So I put some filter sock around the nozzle. Its good enough for keeping silt out of well screens.  Filter is filling  So is the water separator. You can see the red ring at the bottom that will float in water.  The filter is pretty much full  I left the key on for a little while because most of the lines were empty. After a bit of encouragement (cranking it like soulja boy) it started up.
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Feb 18, 2024 17:39
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Bonus post. The remote control on this thing wasn't working. The winch and left track were working, but not the right track. Or maybe it was the left track that wasn't working. I forget. I wasn't very methodical with this. I did a lot of poking and prodding and then poking the same wires again, checking for power and continuity and whatnot. If I was better at this part I probably would have had to only poke each wire once but whatever. I fixed it. The emergency stop has been temporarily relocated to inside the remote while I fooled with this  I had to cut the power wire temporarily when I was doing the hydraulic work to get poo poo out of the way. It has since been permanently reconnected.  You can only see two, but there are three plugs. one for each valve that has an electric control (only when the remote is being used)  The plug in question. The red is power that loops to each plug, green is ground which does the same, and then blue is the signal wire which was the troublesome one.  The blue wire in question on the back of the remote.   After loving around and finding no power and no continuity and whatever the gently caress else, I opened up the plug on the remote end and found the culprit blue wire that had come loose.  Put the wire back where its supposed to go, plugged everything in and checked to make sure it worked. It worked,  Brake cleanered the poo poo out of the backs of the connectors.  Copious amounts of wire loom and some electrical tape later, the back of the plug is more weather proof than it has been in years. Did something similar for the other one.  A ground is important too.  Its all back together and working now. I still need to figure out how to hook up the kill switch on this thing. The remote gets used about once every 3 years, but I'd like to have the kill switch working on it. Problem is I think the kill switch remote is wired up to work with the original engine. And we now have a different engine than the one that came with it. Best I can figure is that the original engine's stop solenoid had no power but when you hit the kill switch, it closed the circuit and grounded out the stop solenoid. With the current engine, the solenoid always has power, and when you hit the kill switch it opens the circuit to kill the engine. I could tap the kill circuit to run with the remote, but when the remote is unhooked it would kill the engine. I *could* put a jumper wire in there somewhere to complete the circuit when the remote is unhooked but the people I work with will forget that after about 5 minutes and then wonder why poo poo doesn't work.
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Feb 18, 2024 18:12
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That sounds like a job for a relay and a few minutes of wiring to invert the signal. Shouldn't be too bad. Edit: make a blind cap that plugs into the remote connector that bypasses the kill signal for you. That way they can't even run it with the connector open and dirt getting in it.
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Feb 19, 2024 03:59
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uhhhhhh what? Iirc, you're an electrical engineer so whatever you just said is probably exactly what I should do it just went right over my head. But hey, for the time being I have a new post. Turns out the hose track that was supposed to be in stock and would probably have been here by now, is in fact not in stock and probably won't be even shipped for a month or more. So I'm not quite finished this thing yet. But a couple weeks ago, after finishing the remote, I changed the gear oil in the tracks and the winch. I was actually sick last week and didn't go in at all, but I was too lazy to post but now here it is. The two gear boxes on these tracks are pretty small and they take less than a litre of oil each. Its thick stuff though, 80w90 and probably (definitely) hasn't been done for ages. I think the actual interval is 500 hours but I have no idea for sure. But its hard to figure out how many hours is on the oil itself when you're mostly siting there with the engine running, doing other stuff. The drill moves for like 5 minutes while being unloaded, then sits for a few minutes, then moves to a hole location for 5-10 minutes (sometimes more but whatever) then sits there for anywhere from 30 minutes to hours and hours or sometimes a day or two before the tracks get more hours put on them. I guess a good rule of thumb is just "gently caress it, do it once a year", but the guy that used to run this thing was not very good at doing maintenance, or much of anything. Good at injuring himself and rolling the fuckin thing over though. Anyway, gear oil still smells awful. I stunk up the shop and the office when I did this. At least the shop got aired out after I finished, but the office got stuck with it till the weekend at least. "driver side" track  I sprayed a bunch of brake cleaner in there after and then flushed out with some clean oil.  After that I overfilled the box with some oil, plugged it up and ran the track for about 10 minutes before draining the new oil out. When it had some time to drain, I filled up to the proper level put the plugs back in and checked for leaks. Same procedure for the passenger side:   About this time I noticed that one of the fittings was leaking on a jack leg hose that I replaced. If you look at the last photo you can see the round pad sitting on the floor at the bottom of the jack cylinder, and might notice there is some oil on it. Or maybe not, its not that clear but whatever. Anywho, they were ORFS (O-Ring Face Seal) fittings and one of the O-rings was hosed up. No pics, but I had to take the hose fitting off, find a spare ORFS fitting and take the o-ring out of it and replace the one that was no good. Last up was changing the winch oil. I only have one picture of this because of whatever reasons. I ran the winch up and down a bunch of times to warm up the oil and then unspooled 100 feet of cable and opened up the plug to drain it. This is how much oil came out:  Theres supposed to be a lot more than that. In fact I think that might not even be oil but the brake cleaner that I sprayed in the side (filler) hole that then dripped out the open drain hole. Theres normally supposed to be about a litre +/- in there. But literally nothing came out. I have no idea how long it was like that but that motherfucker kept working. If anyone ever tries to tell you that Pull Master winches suck, point them to this post. That motherfucker had zero fuckin oil in there for who the gently caress knows how fuckin long and it still worked just as fuckin good as that motherfucker ever did. Theres still the issue of the frame crack on this thing. Or maybe not. I was supposed to bring it to get welded last week but as I mentioned I was off sick. Someone else, supposedly brought it in but I have no idea actually. Other than that and the hose track this thing is up to date on all maintenance. Engine, hydraulic and everything else and pretty much ready to rock for another 18 years.
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Feb 25, 2024 23:02
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I've been a busy boy, but my phone has been hosed up so I can't text pictures to my email and I only a few days ago figured out how to move a folder of pics from my phone to the SD card and then had to shut off my phone, remove the card, load them on to my computer etc.. I've got a few posts backed up in there that I'll probably get to this weekend but a summary is something like: The reason that winch had no oil is because it leaked out. Apparently the former operator told my boss "something is leaking oil" and then a little while later it stopped leaking so dude was all "it stopped leaking, must be good". I filled it up in the last post and then someone took that drill out for a day and bitched that it was leaking oil from the winch. Also had to change another hose that started leaking at the crimp. One of the ones that I contemplated changing while I was doing all the others but didn't. It was at least easy to change. Had another machine in to do a few things to it. Change a few more hydraulic hoses, get another cylinder resealed, a bit of welding and then a gang of rivnuts to replace the threaded pieces that were stripped and holding a bunch of panels in place. Its way less rattly now. Also saw that one of the engine mounts was cracked again, in the same spot. I welded that up but didn't get any pics because of whatever reasons. There it is, the top panels need to come off, and then that large red expanse on the side is the tool box. It needs to come off and then theres good access to most of the hydraulics.  Bolts are already out for the paneling and they just lift off after that,  Top panels off. Most of those holes are where the rivnuts went, but I forgot to get pics I guess, so you'll have to pretend you're in kindergarten and use your imagination. On the right is the cylinder I had to get repaired.   Tool box removed and lots of access. Theres even more access when the fuel and hydraulic tanks on the other side are gone, but thats even more of a pain and I didn't really need to remove them.  Spraying off some hydraulic sludge.  A little bit cleaner than they were before.  A better view of the cylinder that needs repair.  Gotta get some wrenches on that nut and bolt. It was a bit of a pain but not that bad.  Cylinder removed  Spent some time in the parts washer.  This is the tower support. When the tower is put down, it rests on here. Its got a couple bent mounts and one is broken.  About to get welded on the top  Bottom too.  A grinder and paint make my welds look better than they actually are. Thats how that goes right?  There was another spot that needed welding too. I think. Or maybe this is the same spot. I don't fuckin remember.   I guess I forgot to get pics of the repaired cylinder, but imagine the one from the pics above, but with fresh paint and new hydraulic lines. Then when I went to put it back in this happened and I needed to get new nuts and bolts.  Tool box back on:  Fresh shiny bolts holding those panels in place via something like 25 ish rivnuts. Much less rattling now. 
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Mar 23, 2024 03:33
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New post time bros!! As I mentioned in the last post, I had to remove the winch that had no oil in it and get it resealed. It was a MF let me tell you. I tried and tried and tried and ended uo having to take it apart in three pieces to get it out. We've had a shop do it before and after about 15 minutes of trying I really regretted volunteering for the job, but when I brought it to the shop I talked to the guys who'd removed it to reseal before and they told me that one weird trick to take it out and put it back in so getting it back in place took 15 minutes. It took an hour of loving around before I dismantled the thing. Tower up for access  100 feet +/- of cable that needs to be removed.  Empty drum.  Coiled up neatly in an old tire.  Getting the 4 mounting bolts out of this thing was a fuckin pain but not nearly as painful as trying to figure this puzzle out.  I had to take those cross bars off (arrows) and then the two sides came apart from the drum and it was really easy to get that bitch out then.  Some planetary gears inside the drum  Splined shaft to engage said gears  Put back together to bring to get seals done.  Double gently caress you because gently caress you thats why.  All the oil didn't leak out after I filled it because it only got used once, but after I took it apart, the rest of it did. Dumped some absorball on the pad to suck that poo poo up.  Lots of room in there now.  Winch is sealed and ready to install  While it was out I decided to paint that mounting plate. Chain hoist hook is ready to lower that poo poo down. That thing was heavy.  One of the secret techniques was to remove the motor.  The motor and a bunch of springs that go in those round holes around the centre.  That motor mount needs to be covered up so I don't gently caress it up on the install. Its about 6 inches in diameter. What do I have thats 6 inches in diameter? How about a 7 inch grinder disc thats now only 6 inch diameter.    Ready to be lifted.  Back in place. Took no time at all. The other weird trick was to remove the cross bar where the blue line is, to get it in there. Worked like a charm.    Gotta put the springs back in the holes and then install the motor.  Dumping a bunch of grease in there will do the trick.  Motor back in place  New hoses plumbed up and tested to make sure they're on the right ports.  Mounting bolts cranked down and ready to be re-spooled. 
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Mar 27, 2024 02:07
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Wow, what a shitfest to get that in and out of there.
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Mar 27, 2024 03:35
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Yeah, at one point I was wondering if they put the winch in there and then welded in the diagonal pieces after or what the hell they did, but I knew it had come out before without doing that, so I figured there had to be a way. I turned it upside down sideways as much as I could, backwards, and every other direction as far as I could to get it out before finally taking it apart. Back in was easy as gently caress though. At least compared to removal.
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Mar 27, 2024 15:41
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