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Crystal Thenis
Mar 23, 2023

by sebmojo
I’ve loved my 106 gti for years but due to different things happening, it’s been on my parents drive for years.

It’s a 1998, around 60k on and as rough as a car left in the elements can get. It does start and it’s last MOT in 2021 was heavy but it works.

I’m being offered £2000 for it. I purchased it for around £3500 many years ago.

Money is tight these days and I just need a car person to tell me if I’m being taken for a chump or to just move on with life and free up that drive space.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

What did the MOT cite, and what would it take to make it roadworthy again? If it runs and drives and can pass a MOT without a lot of work, 2000 sounds a bit low, unless it's in poor condition overall (rust, peeling paint, smokes when driving, worn suspension, etc). The miles are exceptionally low for its age, so it has that going for it.

FWIW looking up used ones on autotrader.co.uk shows two 1998s going for £6000 and £7995, but both are in excellent condition (one does cite rust in the wheel arches). Looking on theparking-cars and limiting my search to the UK, the cheapest is £5500, going up to £14750 (that one appears to be the same £7995 listing on autotrader). I'm assuming these are all roadworthy with a current MOT though, and all of them look pretty decent at first glance. Didn't specify a year in that search, but it appears to be a 1 generation only trim level.

Full disclosure: I'm not in the UK, and I have no idea what car values are like over there, nor what sort of condition yours is in (we also never got that car here). I know in the US, "enthusiast" cars are commanding a large premium over what they used to get, sometimes selling for more than they did when new. Being the 1.6L GTI (vs the 1.0 or 1.1 in the other trims) may cause the value to go up. I'm assuming it's similar to VW's GTI trim, or Honda's Si or Type R trims? (shove more power into a light car and give it tighter suspension, mostly).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Sep 8, 2023

Crystal Thenis
Mar 23, 2023

by sebmojo
Thank you so much, it kind of confirms what I feel. The paint looks like poo poo because it’s been sat in the sun but the engine turns over and they seem to really be going up in value.

This was the last MOT. I’ve really messed up by not looking after the car properly but that’s depression/lack of funds, in a better way now but probably not down for a complete overhaul.

weirdly chilly pussy
Oct 6, 2007

By your description, it's a roached out boy racer that's sat for a long time. Take the money and let the car be someone else's problem.

Crystal Thenis
Mar 23, 2023

by sebmojo

weirdly chilly pussy posted:

By your description, it's a roached out boy racer that's sat for a long time. Take the money and let the car be someone else's problem.

It started off with a broken key they would set the alarm off, the little problems just increased until the big problems happened.

Kept on life support but grew out of that kind of car and it’s just sat there.

My stepdad has finally had enough of it, and I love my pug (a much bigger 2008 gt line, old man car). The 106 gti was fantastic but other cars are much safer and speed means nothing in the age of electric.

I know there is an amazing car waiting to be restored but I just don’t know if that’s the project for me.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I think the issue is, if it's been sat unloved for a couple of years, it could be absolutely fine, or it could have a litany of problems that need chasing down, the paint could come back with some good detailing, or it could be totally hosed, and so on.

So while £2k may be low if it's not that bad, it's also the proverbial bird in the hand and the risk of it being awful is the buyer's.

You could consider putting it in for an MOT as a cheap way to get a better picture of the situation, which has basically three potential results:
- it passes, with or without advisories, and you can sell it for more as it's MOT'd.
- it fails on minor stuff and that means you can negotiate with the buyer based on exactly what needs fixing
- it fails properly, and you've let the cat out the bag that it's a money pit.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Crystal Thenis posted:

Thank you so much, it kind of confirms what I feel. The paint looks like poo poo because it’s been sat in the sun but the engine turns over and they seem to really be going up in value.

This was the last MOT. I’ve really messed up by not looking after the car properly but that’s depression/lack of funds, in a better way now but probably not down for a complete overhaul.



That looks more like a repair invoice for an overheat, though they also did a MOT with it by the looks of it? Do you have the other paperwork that goes with the MOT? There's no advisories listed on the invoice (doesn't mean there's nothing listed on the MOT itself), but I agree with InitalDave for the most part. I'd see if a nearby shop can do a pre MOT inspection, which, from what I read on the Google machine, states it gets the same checks as a MOT, but it's not official - so nothing is documented with the government; you get a list of what would cause a fail.

What I'd be concerned with from it sitting is it may develop oil leaks once running again (I believe leaks are a fail there?). Tyres, if they show any signs of dry rot, will be a fail. Worn suspension or visibly damaged suspension (leaking shocks, cracked bushings, etc) would probably fail it too.

This link seems helpful - it gives a list of what a MOT looks at, and lets you book a shop for a pre MOT inspection for what sounds pretty cheap. The best part about paying for a pre MOT is you'll know if it needs anything significant before doing the real thing. I think one thing they ask for on some older cars is if the timing belt (cam belt) has been changed (they have to rev it a bit to check for smoke, and don't want to risk the belt breaking), so you'll want to keep the paperwork you shared.

My take, if it were my car, and I just wanted it gone: put a working battery in, take it (or tow it) to a shop for a pre MOT. If it's just basics like tyres, some lights, windscreen wipers, etc, do what it needs to make it pass, take it for an official MOT (the shop that does the pre MOT will likely do the MOT as well), sell it for 5000 with a fresh MOT and give them a list of the advisories. If it needs expensive repairs, see if the person that offered 2000 will give you 2500-3000 - have that service record ready showing it has a new cam belt, water pump, and radiator. If they're firm on 2000, take it just to get it gone. Give them a copy of the timing belt service record. Don't bother with tyres if it has other critical fails.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 8, 2023

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Oil leaks have to be pretty bad to fail the MOT, so likely ok there unless it's obviously pissing out.

A pre-MOT check is a good suggestion, yes, that would get you the same info.

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Crystal Thenis
Mar 23, 2023

by sebmojo
This is amazing help guys, thank you.

I’m going to work out a decent local garage and might try and get it towed across and getting an idea of where it stands.

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