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yigabit posted:i can only describe the sound as very close to belt squeal, although it is not actually belt squeal. you know the classic belt squeal where the individual squeals eventually merge into one long squeal as the car pulls away faster?, well it the sound doesn't merge into one long squeal for me. it just squeals faster and then fades away once i reach higher rpms, aside from recording the sound i'm not too sure how to describe this and hopefully someone will know what i'm talking about. I would think sticking idler pulley or drive pulley, but I may be wrong.
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Mar 9, 2007 09:31
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yigabit posted:i've had this sound for a long time and i can't place exactly where its coming from or what causes this. My car has actually started doing the same thing. It sounds like a squeaking belt or pulley, and it behaves the exact same way as you describe. It dissipates slightly when the car warms up, and virtually disappears when revved up beyond about 2500rpm. I'm assuming it's just the accessory belt or an idler pulley, at least that's what I hope it is. I know my dad's truck was doing the same thing about a year or two ago, and it eventually started doing that signature SCREEECH of a completely slipping accessory belt. He got it replaced and all is well.
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Mar 9, 2007 10:42
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Krakkles + Guinness posted:idea = idler pulley how do i go about fixing this? slipping on a new belt is one thing changing the pulley? lubing the crap out of it? or is this one of them take it to the mechanic things?
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Mar 9, 2007 10:56
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Is there anything fundamentally bad about a difference in camber of .5 degrees between the left and right front wheels? My left front is -1.5 and my right front is -2. I asked the guy to max out the negative camber as he could and that's what he said was the most he could get out of each. I assumed they would be closer than that but when I got the results I wasn't going to bitch and make him go redo it.
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Mar 10, 2007 04:45
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I recently bought a set of 17" wheels and tires to replace the stock 15 inchers on my 2001 Saab 9-3. When I put them on, or have them put on, will I have to buy new lugbolts, or will the ones that are on the wheels now work?
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Mar 10, 2007 05:00
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Petekill posted:I recently bought a set of 17" wheels and tires to replace the stock 15 inchers on my 2001 Saab 9-3. When I put them on, or have them put on, will I have to buy new lugbolts, or will the ones that are on the wheels now work? I'd think the stock ones will work but sometimes custom wheels have different clearances than standard, so the only way to find out for sure is to try them out. Just pop one bolt out and see how it fits in the new wheel when they show up. If it seats on the countersink it'll be fine.
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Mar 10, 2007 05:09
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LloydDobler posted:I'd think the stock ones will work but sometimes custom wheels have different clearances than standard, so the only way to find out for sure is to try them out. Just pop one bolt out and see how it fits in the new wheel when they show up. If it seats on the countersink it'll be fine. Take a piece of clay or putty. Push it into the new wheels. Cut it in half, so you have a profile of the angled seat. Match that to your OE lugs. If they match, you will be fine, if they don't you need new lugs. Chances are, you'll need new lugs. Most OE wheels use a round seat, most aftermarkets use an angled seat.
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Mar 10, 2007 05:40
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yigabit posted:how do i go about fixing this? Difficulty depends on the pulley and the engine, but it's not neurosurgery. Remove old pulley, install new one. Generally cheap and easy, though ease will depend on how it's fastened to the engine/whatever else and how much room you have to work under the hood.
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Mar 10, 2007 09:08
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Two questions: I have a set of 17x8 wheels that weigh about 17 pounds each. Is this light/normal/heavy? Also, my car came used with some weird rear end tires on it. They are VISA branded 215/45R17s. On a Saturn. I have no idea why the previous owner put on 17s, but I don't really have a problem with the wheels. My major issue: I can't find any pressure suggestions for them, and there is nothing written on the tire. I've since replaced the drive wheels with something better, but it is really time to look at the VISAs. Anyone have any idea about that particular tire, or general guidelines for 215/45R17?
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Mar 10, 2007 11:46
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buns of molybdenum posted:Is there anything fundamentally bad about a difference in camber of .5 degrees between the left and right front wheels? My left front is -1.5 and my right front is -2. I asked the guy to max out the negative camber as he could and that's what he said was the most he could get out of each. I assumed they would be closer than that but when I got the results I wasn't going to bitch and make him go redo it. A cross camber of 30' is max spec for most cars, as long as the tolerance isn't stacked with something else (like castor). All thing being equal, it would pull to the left a little bit. What are the measurements for the rest of the suspension? Caster, SAI, toe, ect.
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Mar 10, 2007 17:34
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Dark Solux posted:A cross camber of 30' is max spec for most cars, as long as the tolerance isn't stacked with something else (like castor). All thing being equal, it would pull to the left a little bit. code:Net Boners fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Mar 10, 2007 |
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Mar 10, 2007 18:27
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buns of molybdenum posted:
What kind of car is this? Also he probably adjusted the camber like that to make up for road crown.
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Mar 10, 2007 19:01
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Dark Solux posted:What kind of car is this? 03 Evo 8. I asked for the front camber to be maxed out and for 0 toe.
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Mar 10, 2007 19:03
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buns of molybdenum posted:03 Evo 8. I asked for the front camber to be maxed out and for 0 toe. Did he look at the rear suspension at all? It may just be that is the limits for camber, as in it came like that from the factory (compensated for road crown) if you want more then you will have to start replacng suspension bits/ drilling different sized bolt holes to put camber bolts in. But that should be enough negative, eh?
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Mar 10, 2007 19:07
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Dark Solux posted:Did he look at the rear suspension at all? It may just be that is the limits for camber, as in it came like that from the factory (compensated for road crown) if you want more then you will have to start replacng suspension bits/ drilling different sized bolt holes to put camber bolts in. Yeah he got the rear suspension set up how I asked. I had to get a new alignment because I had camber plates on the car (and like -2.5 degrees of camber up front) but one of the camber plates busted and I had the strut mounts and top hats replaced back to stock. Basically all I wanted to know is if the discrepancy between the left and right camber would be bad for any reason.
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Mar 10, 2007 19:13
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sharkytm posted:Take a piece of clay or putty. Push it into the new wheels. Cut it in half, so you have a profile of the angled seat. Match that to your OE lugs. If they match, you will be fine, if they don't you need new lugs. Chances are, you'll need new lugs. Most OE wheels use a round seat, most aftermarkets use an angled seat. I went out and looked closely at them today, and this is what I discovered. The OE wheels use an angled seat, as do the aftermarket ones. I forgot to mention, they are ASA JH8 17x7.5, +40 offset. The difference is that on the ASA wheels, the part that is angled isn't as long as on the originals. I will probably just take them to a tire shop this week to get it done, but It'd be nice to know whether I'm going to have to pony up 40 or 50 bucks for new bolts.
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Mar 11, 2007 06:27
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meatpimp posted:
You are correct. There are sweet spots where a small increase in speed results in a relatively speaking generous increase in fuel economy. For example, IIRC, I get better gas mileage at 80 than I do at 65.
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Mar 11, 2007 06:38
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Petekill posted:I went out and looked closely at them today, and this is what I discovered. The OE wheels use an angled seat, as do the aftermarket ones. I forgot to mention, they are ASA JH8 17x7.5, +40 offset. The difference is that on the ASA wheels, the part that is angled isn't as long as on the originals. I will probably just take them to a tire shop this week to get it done, but It'd be nice to know whether I'm going to have to pony up 40 or 50 bucks for new bolts. So long as the angles are the same, you'll be fine. If they differ, you'll need new bolts, as the bolt and wheel will only be touching in one spot, not a large surface as they are designed.
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Mar 11, 2007 18:28
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This Winter my muffler became extremely loud. I recently was messing around and figured out the problem. I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima with 2 exhausts (I don't mean dual exhaust, its basically 2 pipes coming out the 1 muffler). One of the pipes is clogged somehow and doesn't let out any exhaust. Is there any way I can fix this with little know how with cars? I've really only changed my own oil. Is there any type of product that could clean it out? If not, how much would this cost me?
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Mar 12, 2007 00:56
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My sister's Red Isuzu Rodeo is turning pink with (what I guess is) oxidation. I remember seeing an infomercial with some magic goop that just wiped that poo poo off and made the finish look good as new. Was that full of poo poo or is there some real stuff out there like that? <3
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Mar 12, 2007 10:16
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I don't know if this really needs its own thread or not but I have a 1990 Ford Bronco that I use for offroading and tooling around. The transmission has started to slip and can barely go over 20 mph forward but still has plenty of torque going backwards. The transmission is an automatic E4OD with about 100 thousand miles on it. I was thinking it could be the torque converter but it could be something way worse. Is it even worth dropping the transmission and trying to fix it or should I just go get a new one? I have a few friends who will help so could three guys who know a decent amount about cars fix this tramsission or is it too much work? None of us have ever worked on taking apart a transmission before.
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Mar 12, 2007 15:39
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the car is a 93 integra rs. Just this morning it started making what sounds like a knocking noise whenever I accelerate. I'm assuming it's the timing belt about to go (the car has 200 000km on it) and I have a new timing belt/water pump at home (I just need some cash to get it installed since I don't trust myself to do it) and I was just wondering if a knocking noise form the engine when accelerating could be anything else? I'm going to go to my mechanic to get it checked out after school.
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Mar 12, 2007 16:21
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Cypress posted:the car is a 93 integra rs. That's typically a sign of detonation - instead of the fuel/air mixture being ignited by the spark plug and having a nice deflagration to push against the piston, it spontaneously ignites and detonates against the piston while it's on its way up. This can be caused by running low-octane gasoline in a car designed for premium, bad sparkplug timing, or overheating. The timing might be off if your distributor is loose; try wiggling the distributor. If it moves, then put it about in the middle of the range of travel, tighten the adjustment bolts, and have the timing set ASAP. That shouldn't take more than a few minutes of work for a mechanic. As for the timing belt, you won't have any sign that it's about to go in terms of engine noises or whatever. There's often an inspection port you can pop off to see any cracking, but that's about it. You don't get any warning before it breaks. Depending on the type of engine you have, a broken timing belt will either stop the engine abruptly or make a hideous noise as the pistons smash into the valves and the engine begins its new life as a boat anchor.
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Mar 12, 2007 16:56
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Is there any site that shows symptoms and common problems so that you can attempt to self-diagnose what is wrong with your car? My car has been acting up, and I'm still trying to pinpoint what causes the problem and in what situations. It seems that if I have been at a standstill for a while, hitting the gas sometimes just shuts the engine off. It's an automatic.
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Mar 12, 2007 23:50
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Deserted posted:Two questions: Anybody?
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Mar 12, 2007 23:57
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Start at 35psi. I have two Visa tires on the back of my 240sx and they make it feel like it has 400hp.
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Mar 13, 2007 00:12
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Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:I have two Visa tires on the back of my 240sx and they make it feel like it has 400hp. What do you mean by this?
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Mar 13, 2007 01:08
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Deserted posted:What do you mean by this? Spin the tires a fuckload.
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Mar 13, 2007 01:13
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BlackMK4 posted:Spin the tires a fuckload. That's what I figured, mine seem to have no grip either.
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Mar 13, 2007 01:16
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Posted this in the old (wrong) thread just before it was closed: I have a 91' ford explorer and don't really know poo poo about cars. But today when I came to a stop in my parking lot there was smoke coming out from the hood. Not a lot, but a little bit. After letting it cool, I opened the hood, started the car and tried to reproduce the smoke so I could see where it was coming from, but nothing. I've also noticed the brakes have been a little slow to respond, could the smoke be coming from some kind of break problem?
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Mar 23, 2007 03:34
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For April Fools Day, I want to take my friends lovely white Nissan Micra, and emphassise his feminine side. I'm thinking large pink flowers, painted onto his car. However, he's a lot larger than me. So I thought it would be a good idea for it to be non permenant, non abrasive and cheap. Any ideas? Can I do this with acrylic paint and have it wash off with warm water, or would it eat through the car like acid? Help greatly appreciated. 
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Mar 23, 2007 16:41
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ibroxmassive posted:For April Fools Day, I want to take my friends lovely white Nissan Micra, and emphassise his feminine side. I'm thinking large pink flowers, painted onto his car. However, he's a lot larger than me. So I thought it would be a good idea for it to be non permenant, non abrasive and cheap. If you're serious about this, use vinyl decals. They stick on with plain water and come off easily.
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Mar 23, 2007 16:52
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Does anyone in the U.K. know where I could get some bright pink vinyl flower decals by April 1st? Thanks straun87 as well. I did'nt realise that paint could scratch a car. 
Total Meatlove fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Mar 23, 2007 |
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Mar 23, 2007 17:07
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How reliable are older 4runners? I'm looking at a 95 with 250,000 km's on it. It seems a little high, but I've heard of these trucks lasting a long, long time.
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Mar 23, 2007 19:13
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ibroxmassive posted:Thanks straun87 as well. I did'nt realise that paint could scratch a car. I'm just basing it on the fact that if I saw anybody put anything on my paint for any reason without asking me I'd freak out 
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Mar 23, 2007 19:23
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ibroxmassive posted:Does anyone in the U.K. know where I could get some bright pink vinyl flower decals by April 1st? As for me, why did I post in the old thread?  I was wondering if anyone knows how to take tire rubber off of paint. It's fairly thick, like mud except deposited in long, ropey strands. I've tried goo gone and heated pressure washing without much success. I'm scared to try anything harsher without knowing if it will help at all.
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Mar 23, 2007 20:25
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I've been hearing some horror stories about the "radio anti-theft systems" in Civics, where if you disconnect the battery, the radio won't work again until you put in a code that's unique to each car. I was wondering if this was true or not, and if so, how I could figure out the code for my car? I got mine used, and I don't remember seeing any documentation that mentioned a battery code like this. I know I could take it to the dealer, but I also know they would charge me out the rear end for it. 
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Mar 25, 2007 02:03
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Simon Draskovic posted:I know I could take it to the dealer, but I also know they would charge me out the rear end for it.
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Mar 25, 2007 02:05
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I'll have to actually try that, then. I've just had nothing but bad experiences with dealerships in the past, and figured they would try to bilk me $50 to look up some code on a computer.
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Mar 25, 2007 02:11
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Simon Draskovic posted:I'll have to actually try that, then. I've just had nothing but bad experiences with dealerships in the past, and figured they would try to bilk me $50 to look up some code on a computer.
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Mar 25, 2007 02:54
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