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two_beer_bishes posted:Do you have the digital climate controls? No, they're just plastic knobs.
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Apr 3, 2007 18:25
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Imagined posted:No, they're just plastic knobs. You can get this or this
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Apr 3, 2007 18:27
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Beautiful! Thanks!
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Apr 3, 2007 18:29
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What the HELL is that rapid ticking noise Chrysler minivans often make when they come to a stop? Sounds like a plasticky ratcheting type sound. I've never been able to figure that one out.Auto Magic posted:Alright, I'm pretty sure this has been answered before, but I've tried searching this a few times and not having much luck. I live in WA and got a speeding ticket and want to opt for the "deferral" option. How do I go about doing this? When I send the speeding ticket back, do I check the "Mitigation" box or the "Contested Hearing" box? When I finally go to see the judge, do I just ask for a deferral? If you have an otherwise good record and dont seem like a slimeball, the judge may very well grant you a deferral if you ask for one. I got a ticket for 21 over and the judge offered me a 1 year deferral after I told him I was working as a counselor at a boy scout camp and was on my single weekly night off and didn't want to be late getting back (true story). Dress decently, comb your hair, and act like a harmless dork. User Error fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Apr 4, 2007 |
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Apr 4, 2007 02:25
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In my 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse, I just started hearing a weird noise that can best be described as the noise that one of those novelty rainmaker sticks makes. The noise seems to be coming from the front right side of the car. It only occurs if the A/C is turned on and only when I turn in either direction or if I'm braking. Seeing as I know next to nothing about cars, I don't even want to guess because I'd probably be making bad assumptions. I'm going to take it in to a professional regardless, but does anyone know what this could be?
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Apr 4, 2007 02:53
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My sister was driving her 1996 Ford Focus and was changing lanes to make a right turn when all of a sudden her steering wheel went stiff and the car stopped accelerating. She had to struggle to turn the wheel to get to the side of the road as the car was slowing down. Also, all her 'check' lights went on as she was slowing down (check engine, check battery etc.). When my dad came to her rescue, he was able to start up the car just fine without any problems afterwards. Any idea what the problem might be? Is this the right thread for this type of question?
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Apr 4, 2007 20:56
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Can anyone tell me about the late 80's early 90's Corollas? More specifically the SR5 models. I found one with 168,000 miles for $1000. Would this be a decent deal? Or should I try and knock down the price?
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Apr 4, 2007 21:47
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Bouchacha posted:My sister was driving her 1996 Ford Focus and was changing lanes to make a right turn when all of a sudden her steering wheel went stiff and the car stopped accelerating. She had to struggle to turn the wheel to get to the side of the road as the car was slowing down. Also, all her 'check' lights went on as she was slowing down (check engine, check battery etc.). When my dad came to her rescue, he was able to start up the car just fine without any problems afterwards. Any idea what the problem might be? Something like this happend in my old POS mercury tracer. The power steering would go out, all the check engine lights would go on, and the car would stall out. What I believe happend (not terribly sure since I gave it to my brother after doing this too many times and no car mechanic knew whats up) is that the wiring harness would overheat and the alternator would cut out. Try keeping the wires clean, watch for shorting, and keep them from direct heat.
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Apr 5, 2007 07:39
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Bouchacha posted:My sister was driving her 1996 Ford Focus and was changing lanes to make a right turn when all of a sudden her steering wheel went stiff and the car stopped accelerating. Either way, the problem is that the engine stalled out. Everything else is a symptom of that. Kinda hard to tell exactly what without any other clues, though. If it's a Focus older than '03, try to find out if it's had a fuel pump recall performed. The early models had pretty bad pumps and if it started failing it could do this.
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Apr 5, 2007 09:49
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Animedork2075 posted:A good friend of mine has an 06 GTO. We recently (Last night) put on a K&N cold air system. You can see it here. After installing it. The car doesn't idle properly. Occasionally, the car would sound like it's going to stall out, and then it kicks up to about a thousand RPM for a second a dies. We were careful about not touching, or harming the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Can you think of anything that might be causing this issue? I put the same kit on my dad's car with no ill effects. It could be the computer relearning the map, since you've changed what it sees coming into the motor... in that case, it'd smooth out and be fine after a few drives. If not, check for leaks around and after the MAF... that could cause the same problem.
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Apr 5, 2007 11:06
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chem42 posted:What the HELL is that rapid ticking noise Chrysler minivans often make when they come to a stop? Sounds like a plasticky ratcheting type sound. I've never been able to figure that one out. I'm no Chrysler buff but it's not just the Minivans that I hear this in. I've heard it from Intrepids and Stratuses too. I'm pretty sure it's the automatic transmission winding itself down back into a lower gear. I'm not sure if auto trannies are supposed to make noises when they adjust back to a lower gear though. I've only ever owned manual transmission vehicles. But I've heard that same sound enough to know what you're talking about.
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Apr 5, 2007 12:05
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Pitch posted:No such thing as a '96 Focus. Is it an 00-07 Focus or a '96 Escort/other?  I meant it was a Ford Taurus. My bad.
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Apr 5, 2007 12:09
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Quick question here: Is it bad to buy a rotary with high mileage? Specifically like say a 2004 Mazda RX-8 with like 124,000 miles. Is it better to go with cylinders?
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Apr 9, 2007 04:27
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chem42 posted:What the HELL is that rapid ticking noise Chrysler minivans often make when they come to a stop? Sounds like a plasticky ratcheting type sound. I've never been able to figure that one out. It's a solenoid. I know the A604 tranny has the clicking solenoid. My old 420a DSM clicked when I stopped. It seems like there is a new replacement for the solenoid that doesn't click though. There isn't anything wrong with the clicking ones though. They just didn't care to make it quiet. I guess people kept thinking something was broken so they made a new solenoid.
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Apr 9, 2007 06:05
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Bahamutsrage posted:Is it bad to buy a rotary with high mileage? Specifically like say a 2004 Mazda RX-8 with like 124,000 miles. Is it better to go with cylinders?
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Apr 9, 2007 06:11
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Pitch posted:The main problem with a high-mileage, naturally aspirated rotary is carbon deposits. Some Seafoam should leave the mechanical parts of the engine as good as new, unless it's been seriously abused. Naturally aspirated rotaries are actually quite reliable, unlike the turbo versions. Hell, just revving the gently caress out of it while driving should clear it up if it's not too bad.
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Apr 9, 2007 06:55
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Bahamutsrage posted:Quick question here: If the owner has taken good care of it, an NA rotary will last for a good long time. If the owner has been lovely, then it's hosed . Oil starvation is particularly bad, and rotaries are designed to burn a small amount of oil under normal conditions; if the owner doesn't keep it at normal levels, then that engine will probably have problems. I'd strongly suggest an inspection from a mechanic with good rotary credentials. As for the carbon deposits: when it's nice and warmed up, it's good for a rotary to take a brief trip to redline every once in a while. The fact that it's fun as hell is an added bonus. 
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Apr 9, 2007 07:03
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Turning left on an advance green has right of way over turning right on a red, correct? This happened just now. I was turning left, and the truck waiting on the other side of the intersection pulled out infront of me, cutting me off, then started honking and shouting at me. I thought I may have done something wrong, but I don't see how. Here's a small diagram, I was the middle green arrow. Green for having a green light. Red for having a red light.  I think I was in the right, but maybe I'm totally wrong on this.
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Apr 9, 2007 22:41
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Turning left on an advance green has right of way over turning right on a red, correct? You were completely right. The right on red rule only applies when the intersection is clear and there is no traffic coming. It's the same as when you're at a stop sign intersecting an arterial.
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Apr 9, 2007 22:46
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Turning left on an advance green has right of way over turning right on a red, correct?
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Apr 9, 2007 22:46
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struan87 posted:Did you have a green arrow or a green circle? If the latter, then he may have a had a green light, meaning you should have yielded to him. It was definitely a green arrow. I use that intersection alot purposely for the advance green. I was 99% sure I was right, but for some reason thought I might have done something wrong.
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Apr 9, 2007 22:59
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:It was definitely a green arrow. I use that intersection alot purposely for the advance green. If you were on the outside lane and the other guy wasn't used to the intersection, it was probably a misunderstanding. He probably saw someone from the middle lane make a turn right in front of him and thought  without realizing there were two turn lanes.
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Apr 9, 2007 23:05
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What is the standard way of rotating your tires? Is it front to back and criss-cross the back to the front or vice-versa?
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Apr 9, 2007 23:16
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Uthor posted:What is the standard way of rotating your tires? Is it front to back and criss-cross the back to the front or vice-versa?
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Apr 9, 2007 23:31
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struan87 posted:As far as I know, there is no "standard". It depends on the drive wheels of the car and the relative sizes of the tires. FWD and all the wheels/tires are the same. I'm just wondering what regular oil change place will do. I plan on rotating them myself this week and want to keep going the same way the oil change people have been rotating them.
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Apr 9, 2007 23:48
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Uthor posted:FWD and all the wheels/tires are the same. I'm just wondering what regular oil change place will do. I plan on rotating them myself this week and want to keep going the same way the oil change people have been rotating them.  Have you checked your manual?
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Apr 10, 2007 00:03
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Uthor posted:FWD and all the wheels/tires are the same. I'm just wondering what regular oil change place will do. I plan on rotating them myself this week and want to keep going the same way the oil change people have been rotating them. It's different with each manufacturer. Toyota is front to back, some are criss-cross. Also depends if you have a full size spare. I personally do criss cross, but then again it's just a saturn. As struan87 said, there is no set standard.
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Apr 10, 2007 00:11
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Huh. I just figured the oil change places had a set way of doing things. I doubt they look up the pattern that each manufacturer recommends for each model of car that goes through one of those places. I'll go with the owners manual.
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Apr 10, 2007 00:33
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A close friend of mine died this week, and consequently I've driven home several times, not to mention a few other places. I drive a 96 Toyota Tercel, and going up all those hills near Ithaca and pushing it up to 80 on the highway for hundreds of miles seems to have taken a bit of a toll on it. The mileage adds up to over 1000 miles in the last week - no exaggeration. Now, the car is behaving sluggishly, not getting a very good top speed and stuttering while idle. A lot of fluids need to be changed, and even though the oil was changed just over a month ago, it's only 500 miles away from needing a change again. My question is, are these problems I'm experiencing (poor braking, very poor acceleration, shifting, and startups) very dire, or simply reflective of the rough time I've put it through recently? I know for a fact it could use a lot of engine maintenance, like flushing a lot of fluids, some cleaning, and a few minor replacements. Are the problems I'm having simply reflective of the wear and tear I've been putting it through, or should I be worried it's something an extensive tune-up won't fix? It was running relatively well before this week. Also, if I am to have major maintenance done on the engine (which is very likely), how much would replacing the auto transmission with a manual cost? I've never heard of such a replacement being done, but this IS a "stupid question" thread. I've just always wanted a manual because it's easier on the car and my wallet, as far as gas goes.
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Apr 10, 2007 01:24
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What are a good (and relatively inexpensive) jack and set of jackstands? I have to put the car up to change the fuel filter, and my mom's friend's lift isn't available for a while, so I might as well buy some now.
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Apr 10, 2007 01:52
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mobn posted:What are a good (and relatively inexpensive) jack and set of jackstands? I have to put the car up to change the fuel filter, and my mom's friend's lift isn't available for a while, so I might as well buy some now.
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Apr 10, 2007 02:47
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Anyone know the oil capacity for a 1998 ford taurus with the base 3 liter SOHC V6? I want to change the oil but the drat thing doesn't have an owners manual.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:11
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Gunjin posted:Anyone know the oil capacity for a 1998 ford taurus with the base 3 liter SOHC V6? I want to change the oil but the drat thing doesn't have an owners manual. about 4.5 quarts
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Apr 10, 2007 03:13
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two_beer_bishes posted:about 4.5 quarts Thanks, thats what I thought it was but I wanted to make sure, never can be too safe where the engine is involved.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:17
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Gunjin posted:Thanks, thats what I thought it was but I wanted to make sure, never can be too safe where the engine is involved. Have you done the transmission fluid lately? The AX4S's don't like dirty fluid very much.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:19
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This sounds stupid, but I've never owned a new car before, and I'm coming up on my 30k mileage service interval. The only things I can't do on my car ('04 WRX) is a radiator flush, brake fluid flush, and a cleaning of the fuel injection system. I can change the antifreeze by draining it, and the same with the brake fluid, but is there any advantage of having the system flushed over just changing it at home? I'll have them clean the fuel injection system for sure. I have no way of doing that. I plan on changing everything else myself.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:25
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two_beer_bishes posted:Have you done the transmission fluid lately? The AX4S's don't like dirty fluid very much. Hmm good point, how many quarts does that take. I should probably pick up a Chilton for this drat car.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:26
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Gunjin posted:Hmm good point, how many quarts does that take. I should probably pick up a Chilton for this drat car. If you do a full flush, around 14 quarts. If you just pull the pan and filter, I believe it's around 7 or 8 quarts. The chiltons book is handy to have, it's only $15-20 at checker auto.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:30
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StopSevenCharles posted:The mileage adds up to over 1000 miles in the last week - no exaggeration. Now, the car is behaving sluggishly, not getting a very good top speed and stuttering while idle. A lot of fluids need to be changed, and even though the oil was changed just over a month ago, it's only 500 miles away from needing a change again. If there is something wrong, you might as well do the tune-up first. It's relatively cheap and hard to tell if anything else is wrong until you have that ruled out. quote:Also, if I am to have major maintenance done on the engine (which is very likely), how much would replacing the auto transmission with a manual cost? I've never heard of such a replacement being done, but this IS a "stupid question" thread. I've just always wanted a manual because it's easier on the car and my wallet, as far as gas goes.
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Apr 10, 2007 03:40
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Pitch posted:A thousand miles really isn't anything for a Toyota engine. Unless something just happened to break over the last week, it probably isn't anything serious. New spark plugs, wires, air filter, and maybe a can of Seafoam would probably make it run a lot better. Well, the car is over ten years old, with over 167,000 miles on it at this point. That 1000 miles really was in the course of less than a week, too. I was practically running the car nonstop. Anyway, I replaced the plugs a few weeks ago. How important are the wires, and how expensive are they? Also, what is Seafoam? A cleaner? Pitch posted:It can be done, but this isn't a good reason. You'll spend a few thousand on a swap done by a competent shop, and it'll take you a long time for the gas mileage improvements to pay for that. I don't really have a good reason for wanting to switch it to Manual other than I like manuals more, and that the auto transmission on the car is probably going to kick the bucket a lot sooner than the rest of the car will. If the whole auto transmission did kick the bucket, would having them put in a manual to replace it make much of a cost difference as opposed to them putting in parts from, or a whole other auto trans?
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Apr 10, 2007 04:10
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