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mobn posted:What are a good (and relatively inexpensive) jack and set of jackstands? I have to put the car up to change the fuel filter, and my mom's friend's lift isn't available for a while, so I might as well buy some now. If you're going to get a floor jack I would recommend that you spend the extra dollars for an aluminum one. I hate hauling my heavy rear end steel jack all over the place.
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Apr 10, 2007 04:20
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Gunjin posted:Hmm good point, how many quarts does that take. I should probably pick up a Chilton for this drat car. It's pretty easy to get the transmission fluid level right. First check the level to see if it is low or high (you probably have to check it when the car is hot and running, transmission in park, but don't quote me on that). Then drain the transmission into a pan. When done draining replace the drain plug and pour the fluid into a clear jug with graduated markings (windshield wiper fluid jugs work well). Estimate how much fluid you need (or measure it out if you really feel like it) and replace the fluid. Depending on the condition of the fluid you may want to do this again once or twice after driving around for a while.
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Apr 10, 2007 04:32
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StopSevenCharles posted:Anyway, I replaced the plugs a few weeks ago. How important are the wires, and how expensive are they? Also, what is Seafoam? A cleaner? Seafoam is a cleaner you can buy for about $8 a can. You put it into your engine by pouring it slowly into the intake or letting a vacuum hose suck it up. Then it tears out all of the carbon and poo poo that's stuck to the inside of your cylinders and shoves it into the exhaust in an awesome smoke show. You can also toss the rest of the can into your gas tank or put it into the oil a few days before changing it. Getting the system cleaned out helps pretty much everything, including gas mileage and how smoothly it runs. quote:I don't really have a good reason for wanting to switch it to Manual other than I like manuals more, and that the auto transmission on the car is probably going to kick the bucket a lot sooner than the rest of the car will. If the whole auto transmission did kick the bucket, would having them put in a manual to replace it make much of a cost difference as opposed to them putting in parts from, or a whole other auto trans?
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Apr 10, 2007 08:13
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Left Ventricle posted:1990 Pontiac 6000, 2.5L four. I've been getting a code 32 if I idle in traffic for extended periods of time. I know the EGR valve is good, as I had it tested by the same technician that put it in. He told me that it's a false positive, caused by my cracked exhaust manifold. Weird readings are being sent to the computer by the oxygen sensor, which is causing it to think the EGR valve is malfunctioning. Does this sound in any way correct? Thanks to below. Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 11, 2007 |
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Apr 10, 2007 08:21
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Left Ventricle posted:Nothin', huh? Been a page and a half and no response.
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Apr 10, 2007 08:30
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http://www.uswheel.com/steel/94_detail.gif What does it mean by 'reversing rim'?
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Apr 21, 2007 09:31
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BlackMK4 posted:http://www.uswheel.com/steel/94_detail.gif  Fun fact I learned in finding that picture: on the original Mini Cooper S, the standard wheel was 3.5" wide. That 4.5" wheel is the optional upgrade. 
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Apr 21, 2007 09:53
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Interesting, thank you  Reverse it is.
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Apr 21, 2007 10:11
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Sometime this year or next, my car will pass the magical 50k mile mark. When I replace my shocks, I figured I'd throw in aftermarket parts while I was down there for a stiffer ride and take care of wheel gap. My question is--for a daily driver--should I go all out with a coil-over kit or stick with sport shocks and springs? Also, when should I be concerned about camber angle and how would I adjust it?
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Apr 21, 2007 16:24
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What does it mean when my car seems to be sputtering, like it isn't getting enough gas when accellerating? It's a little more noticeable coming out of a stop, doesn't seem to happen much in the 30+ MPH range.
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May 6, 2007 00:47
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Knightmare posted:What does it mean when my car seems to be sputtering, like it isn't getting enough gas when accellerating? It's a little more noticeable coming out of a stop, doesn't seem to happen much in the 30+ MPH range. Timing, possibly. Need more details.
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May 6, 2007 01:13
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Does it seem likely at all that the Honda Civic Type-S 4 door hatchback will make it to the states? There was a rumor that the Type R might make it over in 2010.
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May 10, 2007 02:24
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Minto Took posted:Sometime this year or next, my car will pass the magical 50k mile mark. When I replace my shocks, I figured I'd throw in aftermarket parts while I was down there for a stiffer ride and take care of wheel gap. My question is--for a daily driver--should I go all out with a coil-over kit or stick with sport shocks and springs? Also, when should I be concerned about camber angle and how would I adjust it? for a daily driver I wouldn't go with coilovers. That'd be a hell of a stiff ride and you'd run the risk of bottoming out. What car? Also, your camber angle will become more negative the more you drop the car. you adjust it with either cams on the upper and lower control arms, changing bolts on the strut, or something similar. Hard to say without knowing what car and what type of suspension it has. Or what your goals are- DD, solo2, track, ect.
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May 10, 2007 03:13
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Anybody have any experience dealing with Libery Mutual? Some guy rear-ended me Monday, and now I have to go through them to get it fixed. I know they'll make me go through some approved shop, but their website doesn't have a list. I'm just hoping they're not as much of a pain in the rear end as Progressive. :
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May 10, 2007 06:26
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Quick question for you AIers. Long version: I have a 93 Cadillac Sedan Deville. Today I go outside to start it and the battery was completely drained. So my dad and I hook up the jumper cables, and before I even put my keys in the ignition, a fan started up. I get in my car and semi cold air is being blown at my feet, just like if the AC was on. But my car wasn't on...So we jump it, get it to start, I drive around a bit bring it back home and turn it off. Once again the fan keeps blowing. The only way we could get it to turn off was to take out the "AC" fuse from under the hood. Has anyone ever heard of something like this happening? I'm not super good with cars, but any point in the right direction would be nice. Take it to the Cadillac dealer($), family mechanic, or simple fix? Short version: my AC fan(or something like it), stays on even when my car is off. Only way to stop it is take out the fuse. Any advice?
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May 10, 2007 07:38
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DoctaFun posted:Short version:
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May 10, 2007 09:12
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Are High Mileage Miatas something to worry about? I'm looking at a 1999 Miata with 139k miles. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=221504177 Dealer wants 8k, but it has a hardtop and that's a heavy bargaining chip.
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May 10, 2007 14:59
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I have two questions about my 1992 saturn SL1 recently, when you start it, even with the clutch kept in, it revs up to about 2k and then sputters to a stall. What the hell? Also, I was taking a look at the #1 spark plug, and now I have a hard time getting the wire back on. These are those stupid GM plug wires with the long boot. Is there something I'm missing or should I spring for new wires?
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May 10, 2007 15:17
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Question time!! I have a Warn grill guard that has accumulated a significant amount of rust. when i was watching TRUCKS on spike the other day, they showed a cool technique using a tub of water and baking soda and a battery charger to remove rust from pieces of metal. So I actually have 3 questions, 1ST: does anyone know what this technique is? 2ND: can someone tell the the specifics (e.g how much baking soda in water, how many amps) 3RD: This should work for rust, but will it also work for paint?
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May 10, 2007 20:04
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Grimhunter posted:Question time!! I have a Warn grill guard that has accumulated a significant amount of rust. when i was watching TRUCKS on spike the other day, they showed a cool technique using a tub of water and baking soda and a battery charger to remove rust from pieces of metal. I found these through google: http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html http://www.chip.com/buick/techtips/rustremoval.html http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
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May 10, 2007 21:09
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Today I basically brushed up against a curb while parking. Is it a good idea to rebalance the tires?
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May 10, 2007 23:01
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vwdriver posted:Today I basically brushed up against a curb while parking. Is it a good idea to rebalance the tires? If you notice a lack of wheel weights (there should be like an imprint where a weight was) and your steering wheel is shimmying or vibrating then sure, but generally wheels dont become out of balance unless you remount tires on them (The tire being the part that is generally out of balance).
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May 11, 2007 00:00
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Nevermind, sorted it out. Just got some leverage on those puppies. The pin advice is a farse though. Checking out those arms I think it must be some other model that you can do that with.quote:Original question: I have a tiny problem. My wiper transmission has gone out in some way. I figure I'd see if I could fix it so I picked up a repair manual for my '98 Grand Prix. Unfortunately I can't get the wiper arms off of the transmission shaft. Hinchu fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 11, 2007 |
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May 11, 2007 01:19
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AXE EFFECT posted:Are High Mileage Miatas something to worry about? As long as it was well maintained and everything done on schedule, that's not particularly something to worry about. The motor (and well, pretty much everything else) is pretty solid on Miatas. I know the 99/00 had the issue with the #4 thurst bearing, but I really don't know much about it, so read up on it on miata.net. I think the 99/00 (or maybe it was later) also has a tendency to consume coilpacks faster than normal, but again, not an expert, so read up on it. Overall, an 139k mile Miata has a LOT of life left in it if it has been taken care of and will continue to be taken care of.
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May 11, 2007 01:23
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Knightmare posted:I found these through google: Thanks a lot, this is working very nicely. Left over paint isn't coming off so nicely though.
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May 11, 2007 05:09
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What is the general feeling against CVT in USA? Also how would a CVT car fare in drag racing?
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May 11, 2007 16:57
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Grimwall posted:What is the general feeling against CVT in USA? Also how would a CVT car fare in drag racing? As for drag racing: the CVTs used in passenger cars today have a pretty low torque limit. They probably wouldn't help much in a drag car because any benefits would be overshadowed by the low torque the engine would have to have. A 250ft-lb car operating at peak power probably wouldn't win against a 500ft-lb car with an automatic transmission.
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May 11, 2007 17:03
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struan87 posted:Is there a general feeling against CVT? There might be some mistrust because it's "new" and "different" but it seems like it's becoming more common. Weren't there new some new developments in CVT tech that overcome the low torque limit?
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May 11, 2007 18:37
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Grimwall posted:Weren't there new some new developments in CVT tech that overcome the low torque limit?
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May 11, 2007 18:44
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Pitch posted:Sounds like a bad relay and/or switch. One of them is stuck in the on position and so it's constantly feeding power to the fan. That's also probably why your battery was dead, in case you didn't figure that out. I'm not familiar with Sedan Devilles, but usually a relay or switch is an easy plug-in replacement, if you know how to get to it. Thanks for the reply Pitch, sounds like that is probably the problem and I'll check into that. Think the manual would give an idea how to replace that?
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May 11, 2007 19:23
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I've gotten for about a year or so a semi sweet burning smell after running my car for a while. I notice it while stopped at a light or getting out of the car, especially after driving hard. I've noticed no other problems, but sometimes it is strong enough that my passengers comment on a burning smell. I believe it is strongest near the radiator, but not sure really. My coolant level has not changed much at all in the past year, so I don't believe that is leaking. Any ideas to what is burning? The car is a 2001 Mazda Protege MP3. poppingseagull fucked around with this message at 23:42 on May 11, 2007 |
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May 11, 2007 23:39
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poppingseagull posted:I've gotten for about a year or so a semi sweet burning smell after running my car for a while. I notice it while stopped at a light or getting out of the car, especially after driving hard. I've noticed no other problems, but sometimes it is strong enough that my passengers comment on a burning smell. I believe it is strongest near the radiator, but not sure really. My coolant level has not changed much at all in the past year, so I don't believe that is leaking. When my mom's coolant hose burst, it smelled like burning maple syrup. I guess it's your coolant leaking somewhere.
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May 12, 2007 02:34
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shempskaya posted:Anybody have any experience dealing with Libery Mutual? Some guy rear-ended me Monday, and now I have to go through them to get it fixed. I know they'll make me go through some approved shop, but their website doesn't have a list. Don't know if it's true in your state, but in some states insurers are legally required to pay for the shop of your choice and cannot require an "approved" shop. Even in states where this is the case, insurance companies like to assume you don't know this and try to get you to go to a cheap/kickback shop.
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May 12, 2007 07:03
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poppingseagull posted:I've gotten for about a year or so a semi sweet burning smell after running my car for a while. I notice it while stopped at a light or getting out of the car, especially after driving hard. I've noticed no other problems, but sometimes it is strong enough that my passengers comment on a burning smell. I believe it is strongest near the radiator, but not sure really. My coolant level has not changed much at all in the past year, so I don't believe that is leaking. Check your upper radiator hose, it's probably leaking onto the hot engine causing it to burn.
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May 12, 2007 07:11
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Would buying this 2.5 RS be a really stupid Idea? http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=222565173 It HAS to have a salvage title or some such.
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May 12, 2007 15:42
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Guinness posted:I know the 99/00 had the issue with the #4 thurst bearing, but I really don't know much about it, so read up on it on miata.net. That being said, 9k seems like too much for a '99 with 139k (even with a hardtop, which makes it actually 8k). See if you can talk another 1-2k off of him. Of course Miatas have a lot of regional variation, and it is spring, so if you need it now you may be stuck (shop around).
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May 12, 2007 18:02
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AXE EFFECT posted:Would buying this 2.5 RS be a really stupid Idea? It says right at the bottom that their cars come from salvage places. I wouldn't buy it, but that's me.
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May 12, 2007 19:28
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Sexy Santorum posted:Check your upper radiator hose, it's probably leaking onto the hot engine causing it to burn. Checked and thats not it. Perhaps next time I smell it I'll pop the hood and try to narrow it down more.
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May 12, 2007 21:06
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Edit: Found it.
briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 14, 2007 |
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May 14, 2007 03:26
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I've seen a lot of signs on interstates in construction areas that say "Trucks Use Left Lane." What is the proper thing for cars to do in that situation? Do you continue driving on the right and passing on the left? Do you drive on the left and pass on the right?
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May 14, 2007 04:47
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