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IAMKOREA posted:If I want to protect my car from paint chips and get a clear bra like 3M applied, how does washing it work? Do I just wash over it? Won't poo poo get under there?
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Jun 21, 2007 15:38
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72beetle posted:do we have an "automotive painting thread" anywhere? Since the search is disabled, I tried manually searching through about 10 pages of threads, but I didn't see anything in AI or Ask and Tell. Not specifically painting, but dent and scratch repair. You could probably ask any pertinent questions there, unless you're talking about whole hog booth spraying on your own. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2523134
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Jun 21, 2007 15:49
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French Canadian posted:I was going to be in the UK for the day (July 14th or so) due to a 24 hour layover I am allegedly going to have, and wondered about automotive attractions that might be interesting to check out. I'm coming into Heathrow and I guess I'd be taking the tube into central London where I'd stay for the night (I am still figuring this part out). Brands Hatch have a British Formula 3 and GT sportscars race meet that weekend. I think Heathrow is pretty close to the Thruxton track aswell but I dunno if they have anything on that weekend.
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Jun 21, 2007 16:02
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alright so one of the nuts on my car is different  now the car came with a key but i had the brakes done a couple weeks ago and i guess the mechanic didnt put it back in the car. he said he mailed it to me (a week ago). now i need to go on a roadtrip maybe tonight or tomorrow morning and i need to be able to change my tires if need be. now is there any way to get that thing off without using some super special awesome tool or breaking it off?
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Jun 21, 2007 21:58
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Metratron posted:now is there any way to get that thing off without using some super special awesome tool or breaking it off?
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Jun 21, 2007 22:09
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Well turns out replacing a carb is pretty easy once you realize some parts from the old carb need to be transfered to the new one. I think I sat there for a half hour trying to get that brake booster line into the back of the carb without the screw in inlet from the old one. Anyway another question.. The Chevelle seems to get stuck at high idle, say I'm driving down the highway and I'm coming up to a stop. Now if I just get off the gas and start braking I have to get on them fairly hard as its idling retard high and will cruise at 35 with my foot off the gas. So, what I've been doing is tapping the gas when coming up to stops to kick it down to idle. I have to do this before shutting the car off as well otherwise it'll sit there and diesel as its reving so high. I'm not really sure what is causing it exactly, is the gas pedal itself gunked up or something? the springs that compress the throttle once you get off of it? although they seem fine, can you even buy new throttle springs from a parts store?
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Jun 23, 2007 15:59
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Sexy Santorum posted:Well turns out replacing a carb is pretty easy once you realize some parts from the old carb need to be transfered to the new one. I think I sat there for a half hour trying to get that brake booster line into the back of the carb without the screw in inlet from the old one. Anyway another question.. Open the hood while it's idling high and take a look at the throttle actuator to see if it's closing all the way.
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Jun 23, 2007 19:13
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I failed my emissions test yesterday (I knew this was coming, check engine light's been on forever and apparently they've gotten stricter with the OBD stuff). 1998 Honda Accord LX 4dr/4cyl. My code is P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). What are the things that could be causing this that won't involve having to replace the catalytic converter? The guy who did the emissions test said it might just be a bad oxygen sensor, but looking around online it looks like a lot of people with this problem had to get their whole catalytic converter replaced. And sometimes more, if there was another part malfunctioing which is what killed the cc. Since I have to get this fixed to use my car, I'm in a perfect spot to get taken advantage of by a mechanic, and I don't have a mechanic that I trust here in VA since I've only had one real trip to the shop since moving here. I also don't know anyone with a Honda who would be a useful source for a recommendation. Basically I'm looking for anything I should have them check before authorizing them to replace the freaking expensive catalytic converter.
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Jun 23, 2007 20:05
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica and recently when I was driving I had to brake suddenly for an exit and the oil light came on. About a half second later it turned off and nothing seemed wrong. It did that again about 5 minutes later when I was braking, and after flashing for a moment it turned off. After an hour and a half more of driving there were no problems and this hasn't occured since. What would possibly cause this and is it worth bringing the car to a mechanic to check out?
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Jun 24, 2007 04:19
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Imaginary Number posted:I have a 2000 Toyota Celica and recently when I was driving I had to brake suddenly for an exit and the oil light came on. About a half second later it turned off and nothing seemed wrong. It did that again about 5 minutes later when I was braking, and after flashing for a moment it turned off. After an hour and a half more of driving there were no problems and this hasn't occured since. What would possibly cause this and is it worth bringing the car to a mechanic to check out?
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Jun 24, 2007 04:26
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Xenoid posted:Oil pressure or oil level? I'm guessing level. Did you check your oil? Sorry, it was the oil pressure. I didn't get a chance to check the oil level because the event happened this evening and I don't want to hang outside in my sketchy city late at night if I can avoid it. The oil was changed less than two months ago, so hopefully it isn't low on oil.
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Jun 24, 2007 04:46
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Imaginary Number posted:Sorry, it was the oil pressure. I didn't get a chance to check the oil level because the event happened this evening and I don't want to hang outside in my sketchy city late at night if I can avoid it. The oil was changed less than two months ago, so hopefully it isn't low on oil. I'd bet that your oil is low. When you braked, it sloshed away from the pickup, and so the oil pump was starved for half a second. No oil for the oil pump means no oil pressure, and the light comes on. It's normal for engines to start burning a little bit of oil between changes, especially as they age. Plus, it's possible that whoever changed your oil didn't get the drain bolt or filter torqued quite enough or something, enough to leak a drop every once in a while.
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Jun 24, 2007 06:02
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Kase Im Licht posted:I failed my emissions test yesterday (I knew this was coming, check engine light's been on forever and apparently they've gotten stricter with the OBD stuff). I have the same car but made a year later. I also had the same code a while back, but it was only a matter of taking off the gas cap and putting it back on. While researching it on the internet, I too found that the main culprits were the catalytic converter and the rear oxygen sensor. Basically, as I understand it, the rear oxygen sensor's job is to tell if the catalytic converter is doing its job. If either one of them fails, the ECU gets erratic numbers but doesn't know whom to blame. You may be able to have them read real-time data from the ECU while the car is running to see if the sensor is behaving erratically. Other than that, I think you might just have to bite the bullet and have the part(s) replaced. I saw a lot of cheap (less than $200) catalytic converters on various auto parts sites, but I have no idea how good any of them are. It also doesn't seem to be too hard to replace one if you're inclined to do such things. How much are they wanting to charge you? Have you asked a dealership how much they charge for comparison? My question: My sun visors are quite loose, especially when moved all the way to the doors. This means that they swing about and hit me in the face even on fairly gentle turns. I took one out to try to tighten it, but there's really nothing to tighten. The friction to stop the visor from swinging around is caused by a spring pushing two parts together, and I can't reasonably get at and replace the spring. Is there anything I can spray in there to safely "gum up" the joint? I'm basically looking for the opposite of grease/WD40/silicone spray.
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Jun 24, 2007 06:07
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cheezer posted:I saw a lot of cheap (less than $200) catalytic converters on various auto parts sites, but I have no idea how good any of them are. It also doesn't seem to be too hard to replace one if you're inclined to do such things. How much are they wanting to charge you? Have you asked a dealership how much they charge for comparison?
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Jun 24, 2007 06:30
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ChlamydiaJones posted:
Have you looked behind your glovebox? Thats where they are on toyotas, anyways 
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Jun 24, 2007 07:34
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Kase Im Licht posted:I believe it was around $800 to have a dealer replace the catalytic converter. Haven't asked an independent place yet. I'm pretty sure I have no ability to replace the part myself, but maybe buying it online and having someone install it would be a good compromise. If its not the greatest part in the world thats okay, I don't play on holding on to this car for more than another 6 months to a year, but I do need it to pass emissions to register it, and still be passing emissions whenever I get around to selling it. I just found this thread which may be of some help to you: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2506953
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Jun 24, 2007 19:00
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Zool posted:Open the hood while it's idling high and take a look at the throttle actuator to see if it's closing all the way. Yea, those springs that bring the throttle back to idle when you let go of the gas don't bring it back all the way. What are these called? I searched autozone for "throttle actuator" and nothing came up.
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Jun 25, 2007 00:06
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Can someone explalin, in small words, exactly what a swaybar does? I know its part of the suspension that helps keep the vehicle from rolling over in turns, but I've not been able to figure out the details of it.
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Jun 25, 2007 03:13
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Sexy Santorum posted:Yea, those springs that bring the throttle back to idle when you let go of the gas don't bring it back all the way. What are these called? Throttle return spring. Edit: could also be the fast-idle solenoid sticking, or some part of the linkage binding rather than/in addition to weak springs. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jun 25, 2007 |
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Jun 25, 2007 04:12
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Throttle return spring. Thank you good sir. I picked up the new springs and that was it, works perfect now 
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Jun 25, 2007 15:11
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Iron Squid posted:Can someone explalin, in small words, exactly what a swaybar does? I know its part of the suspension that helps keep the vehicle from rolling over in turns, but I've not been able to figure out the details of it.
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Jun 25, 2007 16:31
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Why does my 1997 Hyundai Elantra (standard transmission) get 40mpg highway and only 28 city? What makes up for this big drop off in fuel efficiency? Also, I was driving alone the entire time with a weight difference from time to time that is less than 50lbs. This weekend I drove from Cleveland to Cincinnati (240 miles) and I only needed 6.1gal of gas, yet for the remainder of my trip, I used 5gal to travel 130mi around town--and I didn't use A/C in the city. Edit: 1997 Hyundai Elantra Standard Transmission 1.8L DOHC Regular grade Shell fuel vkxmai fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jun 25, 2007 |
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Jun 25, 2007 16:32
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vkxmai posted:Why does my 1997 Hyundai Elantra (standard transmission) get 40mpg highway and only 28 city? What makes up for this big drop off in fuel efficiency? Also, I was driving alone the entire time with a weight difference from time to time that is less than 50lbs. When you're in the city, you're starting and stopping pretty regularly. Acceleration uses up a lot more fuel than just keeping at a single speed. When you are cruising on the highway, for the most part all you have to do is overcome aerodynamic resistance - not a huge problem at 60 or 70 mph. On the other hand, every time you accelerate, you've got to overcome more than one ton of inertia to get moving.
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Jun 25, 2007 17:23
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I don't see a thread or anything in the FAQ about it, but would this be the right thread to ask for a problem diagnosis? (also this is a stupid question, and it's in a stupid question thread)
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Jun 25, 2007 23:16
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:I don't see a thread or anything in the FAQ about it, but would this be the right thread to ask for a problem diagnosis? (also this is a stupid question, and it's in a stupid question thread) Sure, but if it's half-way complex, you'll be better served with your own thread. It'll get more traffic and more undivided attention.
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Jun 25, 2007 23:31
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Uthor posted:Sure, but if it's half-way complex, you'll be better served with your own thread. It'll get more traffic and more undivided attention. Car is idling a little rough at a stoplight. Most of the time it's fine, but occasionally it'll try to die and gurgle a bit, so I'll punch it out of it. Acceleration can also be a little bit sputtery. I would assume that's a plug/wires thing, right? Any other ideas what could cause that? Car's fine otherwise. Part 2, depending on the diagnosis, how important is it to take it in? I'm thinking that as long as I'm not standing on it 24/7 that the occasional misfire isn't a huge deal, but could it become a bigger problem if left unchecked? I'm not in a hurry to get this fixed unless I need to be.
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Jun 26, 2007 02:31
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:Car is idling a little rough at a stoplight. Most of the time it's fine, but occasionally it'll try to die and gurgle a bit, so I'll punch it out of it. Acceleration can also be a little bit sputtery. I would assume that's a plug/wires thing, right? Any other ideas what could cause that? Car's fine otherwise. I'm no expert, but it might also be something like an airflow sensor or o2 sensor malfunctioning and screwing with the fuel/air mixture. Spark plugs are really cheap though, and you can replace them quite easily. Supposedly they should be replaced every 30k miles anyway.
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Jun 26, 2007 03:29
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What's the proper way to rev match? 1.) From third to second. Clutch. Engage neutral. Blip throttle. Engage second. Release clutch. 2.) From third to second. Clutch. Engage second. Blip throttle. Release clutch. 3.) None of the above you moron. And does this process change when heel - toe shifting?
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Jun 26, 2007 08:56
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IAMKOREA posted:What's the proper way to rev match? I have a semi-related question: I don't really have the room to twist my right foot anti-clockwise to do heel-toeing (it just causes my right knee to hit the left and feel far too awkward), so I have my heel on the brake and ball of foot on the accelerator. Is there really anything wrong with this? In my beater I can do this fine, haven't tried this in my new (to me) MX-5 yet (the clutch is much further right than in my older car) so I'm wondering how to do it. Maybe I need to look into some screw-on pedal overlay things?
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Jun 26, 2007 11:28
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http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/3404838&category=passenger-cars "engine is makin a clackin sound"... anyone hazard a guess as to what the problem is?
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Jun 26, 2007 17:28
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mexecan posted:http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/3404838&category=passenger-cars Rod bearings, its a Nissan and they always throw rod bearings. Time for a new engine, no way I would pay $2k for that car.
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Jun 26, 2007 17:49
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I have a nail in my tire. What the gently caress do I do now?! 
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Jun 26, 2007 18:24
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Bahamutsrage posted:I have a nail in my tire. What the gently caress do I do now?!
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Jun 26, 2007 18:49
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I have a 95 Honda Prelude. It was stolen a while back, but recovered. All is well with it now though, besides the radio (and the two missing speakers in the back). When I turn on the electricity and or start the car, the radio just wont go on. Not even the anti-theft light. I have removed the radio/clock fuse from under the hood and waited ten seconds before replacing it, but to no avail to get the radio working. The clock DOES work, however. Any ideas?
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Jun 26, 2007 20:35
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struan87 posted:Go to a tire store. If it's in the tread, they can patch it for cheap. If it's in the sidewall, you'll need a new tire. And if it's in the tread but you've driven on a flat tire long enough to damage the sidewall, you'll also need a new tire. If the tire is not completely flat, drive on a spare tire to the tire store and they should be able to fit it.
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Jun 26, 2007 21:03
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Why is it I always see really expensive cars with no plates on them? I live in San Francisco and it seems like every car that costs more than 80 grand has no California plates on them. It's not just dealer tags it's like there's no tags. I've seen Mercedes, Bentleys, BMWs and Maseratis-some of them I see near daily- and they never have plates, they don't look like they're going to get plates and I'm wondering if anybody here knows why that would be.
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Jun 26, 2007 23:03
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My 99 Nissan Frontier 4wd v6 model makes a squeaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate. I got under the truck to see if I could see something moving but it doesnt seem to be that easy. Would this be the tranny or engine? I made sure it wasn't the axle or any of the wheels or anything. It makes the noise when I accelerate parked also. Thanks for any input anyone has on this.
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Jun 26, 2007 23:42
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SardonicCheese posted:My 99 Nissan Frontier 4wd v6 model makes a squeaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate. I got under the truck to see if I could see something moving but it doesnt seem to be that easy. Would this be the tranny or engine? I made sure it wasn't the axle or any of the wheels or anything. It makes the noise when I accelerate parked also. Thanks for any input anyone has on this. PancakeTransmission posted:I have a semi-related question: I don't really have the room to twist my right foot anti-clockwise to do heel-toeing (it just causes my right knee to hit the left and feel far too awkward), so I have my heel on the brake and ball of foot on the accelerator. Is there really anything wrong with this? By rolling your heel, you should be able to do this without a great deal of motion of your leg. My right knee doesn't move more than an inch when heel-toeing. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jun 27, 2007 |
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Jun 27, 2007 00:15
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Krakkles posted:Most likely a loose belt. With the engine off, apply pressure with your hand to the flat surface of the belts on the front of the engine. They should be fairly taut and not deflect more than perhaps 1/2". They were both pretty snug. One was noticably looser than the other. Do you think I should get this replaced?
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Jun 27, 2007 03:32
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IAMKOREA posted:What's the proper way to rev match? I always go with number 2. As far as I'm concerned, number 1 is a waste of time and effort. I'd only ever use 1 if I wanted to keep it out of gear for several seconds for some odd reason, and even then I'd engage the right gear before blipping to make sure I could get the timing right. Basically, under normal circumstances, I see no need to pause in neutral. Heeltoeing demands that the entire process be fast, so that's a definite number 2 situation. Edit: taken out of context, this could make for some decent potty humor.
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Jun 27, 2007 04:34
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