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Krakkles posted:Most likely a loose belt. With the engine off, apply pressure with your hand to the flat surface of the belts on the front of the engine. They should be fairly taut and not deflect more than perhaps 1/2". Fixed.
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Jun 27, 2007 04:44
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Lance Staminero posted:Why is it I always see really expensive cars with no plates on them?  Seriously, a lot of people try to avoid running front plates because they often mess up the appearance, especially on European cars that were intended for longer, narrower plates. I don't think I've ever seen someone running without temp tags or rear plates, though.
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Jun 27, 2007 05:44
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Krakkles posted:Yes. For proper control, you want to have your toe on the more sensitive input - on most cars, this is the brakes. Try using the side of your foot, rather than your heel, for the throttle. I wear size 13 shoes and have no trouble doing this in my NA MX-5.
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Jun 27, 2007 08:58
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I've got a 2003 Dodge Neon R/T (problem spotted!) with around 53k miles on it that I've owned for about 2 years and 10k miles. When I brake from more than neighborhood speed, the steering wheel and shifter shimmy/shake/wobble. From doing a little e-investigating, it sounds like this is caused by warped rotors. I've never done any real work on my car, don't have a jack or jack stands, a torque wrench, but I see this as an opportunity to get to know my car a little better. Talking to someone, they claimed that turning rotors can be done for either really cheap, or the low low cost of free. I am doubtful, as the second place I called (SEARS) wants $38 per rotor. And that's after a bunch of diagnostic work. The first place i called (Autozone) doesn't even turn rotors anymore. What is my best option here? Buy jack/jack stands/rotors and flat out replace the rotors? Should I replace pads too? Or is there a well known place that does turn rotors for much less money than SEARS is asking? Also I guess I should ask, is there anything else I should do to confirm that it is in-fact warped rotors? pik_d fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jun 28, 2007 |
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Jun 28, 2007 02:15
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Do the Solstice and Sky have a known TSB out about the rear diff? I've seen at least 20 come in at work... EVERY SINGLE loving ONE had a rear diff leak.
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Jun 28, 2007 03:16
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cheezer posted:My sun visors are quite loose, especially when moved all the way to the doors. This means that they swing about and hit me in the face even on fairly gentle turns. I took one out to try to tighten it, but there's really nothing to tighten. The friction to stop the visor from swinging around is caused by a spring pushing two parts together, and I can't reasonably get at and replace the spring. Is there anything I can spray in there to safely "gum up" the joint? I'm basically looking for the opposite of grease/WD40/silicone spray. I'm still looking for the opposite of grease  Any serious (non-candy) suggestions?
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Jun 28, 2007 16:06
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cheezer posted:I'm still looking for the opposite of grease The only good solution I've ever found is to just replace the whole drat visor with a new one. Given Chrysler charges $120 for visors with a lighted vanity mirror (versus $30 for unlit), I'm just living with it. I figure the head trauma builds character, and eventually I'll be so damaged I won't feel it anymore. All that being said, there is an idea I've been kicking around. Visor clips are incredibly cheap ($5 here), and it would theoretically be possible to mount one above the door. So when the sun is streaming in the window, just clip the visor in (like it normally is) and it can't go anywhere. I take no responsibility for this idea if you try it and end up with a visor clip wedged in your temple... which is pretty much what I expect would happen if you were involved in a decent crash.
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Jun 28, 2007 19:08
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Cross posting this from A/T. I got some answers, but I wondering if anyone here can chime in as well. Here's the situation: So some dumb broad bumped my car from behind today. The damage was minimal, but there are scratches that I want to get fixed. To give you an idea, there are two scratches caused by the screws on her license plate holder. Maybe I'm being anal, but it's a new car and the way I see it, if someone else caused ANY damage to my car, I think they should fix it. I have all her information, but I'm wondering what the next step should be. If I report it to her insurance company, will my car now have an accident on its record. I definitely don't want that as I've heard that hurts the resale value. Obviously it's hardly an accident, but I don't know how that works. What should I do?
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Jun 28, 2007 22:46
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How much would your standard bumper repair cost? The car's an older (90's) mazda, and the bumper's been popped at the corner so it's hanging down a bit. The damage to the paint is minimal and there are no real dents, just that little detachment and paint damage. Sorry I don't know the model number, but does anybody just have a quick ballpark estimate, by chance?
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Jun 29, 2007 01:02
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Here's a stupid question: Is it possible to swap out an automatic transmission for a manual on a car? (specifically a 05 mustang) How pricey would it be if so?
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Jun 29, 2007 01:17
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synthetic.bear posted:Here's a stupid question:
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Jun 29, 2007 01:28
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synthetic.bear posted:Here's a stupid question: Yes, doing it yourself... 1-2k, otherwise it's not cost effective.
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Jun 29, 2007 01:37
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My car was broken into recently and my question is would there be a reason for car thieves to tamper with the odometer? I read how you can manipulate the gears over at Howstuffworks so it's possible. I noticed my mileage reads less than what I had written down a couple of weeks ago. I'm positive I wrote it down correctly.
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Jun 29, 2007 22:42
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I'm thinking about doing something to my suspension on my IS300. Someone I know is selling me these springs. It was never used and brand new in the box for about $120. It'll drop my car down about 1 and a half inches. Is this a terrible idea? Are there any pros/cons with lowering or changing my springs? Anything I need to look out for before doing this? I own a 2002 Lexus IS300 with about 143,xxx miles on it. Thank you guys a ton.
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Jun 30, 2007 02:44
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solarhalfbreed posted:My car was broken into recently and my question is would there be a reason for car thieves to tamper with the odometer? Occam's razor says you wrote it down wrong.
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Jun 30, 2007 03:11
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Goon help needed! Bah. So I drive a Honda Accord 1989 (nice!) and my after market stereo that was installed when I bought it died. I bought a replacement and tried to stick it in tonight, my first go at such a project. All the wire splicing that was previously done lined up perfectly and when plugged in I got glorious sound from all 4 speakers. However, when putting it inside my dash and futzing around with trying to get the cables to behave, I lost all power to the stereo. Heres my non-technical explanation of what happened... The connector on the back of the stereo has a red power line that goes to a small fuse box to a red wire, and a yellow line that goes to a bigger box with a fuse on it, to the car. The black, ground wire is connected and disappears up into the car where I can't see it. While dicking around with the cables trying to get the stereo to fit, one of the splices for the yellow cable came apart and I caught for a moment a spark when it hit some metal inside the dash. Near as I can tell it connected with a piece of the frame. Since then, no stereo power, to either the new one or the old one (which powered up fine, just wont accept CDs any longer). Everything else on the dash lights up great. I've checked all the fuses and they look fine, including the fuse for the radio on the main fuse block. WTF do I need to do to fix this? It goes to show you should always half rear end your work. If I would have quit while it was hanging precariously but acceptably out of the dash, I'd have glorious music. But no, I had to go the extra mile and try to make it look like it's supposed to...
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Jun 30, 2007 04:34
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On my Honda, yellow is the always-on power line. It's not switched with the ignition, so it is live even when the car is off. This is why you should always disconnect your battery when you do any electrical work. It sounds like you shorted this wire to ground (the chassis/frame is ground in a car). That spark means you probably blew a fuse. Check and replace the audio fuse in your fuse box and all the inline fuses in the wiring. If they're okay, you may have blown the fuse in your head unit. It might be replaceable, but if not...I guess you're buying a new one. Sorry for the bad news Edit: my car ('02 S2000) has two fuses on this line. One is under the hood and one is under the dash. You might have two also, which is why the fuse in your main block looks okay. It can't hurt to replace the fuse even if it looks fine; swap in a spare and see if it fixes anything. struan87 fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jun 30, 2007 |
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Jun 30, 2007 06:38
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struan87 posted:Intelligence Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look for that tomorrow, though I haven't the faintest idea where that second fuse box could be. I'm a server guy, not a car guy. Oi. I appreciate it, thanks.
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Jun 30, 2007 08:01
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Spiffness posted:Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look for that tomorrow, though I haven't the faintest idea where that second fuse box could be. I'm a server guy, not a car guy. Oi. There should be a fuse holder somewhere in the power line - it looks like a white nylon lump in the wire. Also, check everything in the fusebox; the one labeled as going to the stereo probably isn't the "always-on" lead; it's the primary power lead for the stereo. It could be that you've got a different blown fuse. Does your dash clock keep time?
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Jun 30, 2007 08:05
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Space Gopher posted:Does your dash clock keep time? The time did jump backward a few hours I noticed later, but it didn't seem to reset itself to 12:00, just showing 2 hours behind where it was set earlier today. Thanks for the visual cue on the other fuse and the fuse tip. EDIT: Came home. Looked into it further, under the hood is a 2nd fuse box where there was a blown fuse. Swapped it, everything works great. Lesson learned. Thanks AI FlerpNerpin fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Jul 1, 2007 |
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Jun 30, 2007 08:56
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http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=225602962 This looks too good to be true. An M3 for such a low price?! Sounds like a money pit. After another posted convinced me that I shouldn't get a car that I can't pay off, I'm looking into e36/34s I can't find a fine example near Seattle Edit: Wow, I just ran the KBB/Edmunds price book for the M3 and it comes to $7,356. So the car might not be such a bad idea. Now, where can I get another 4,000$ to buy it? (A loan if you will) Also, what to look for in BMWs? TAG BODY SPRAY fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jun 30, 2007 |
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Jun 30, 2007 19:14
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AXE EFFECT posted:Now, where can I get another 4,000$ to buy it? (A loan if you will) You're near Seattle? BECU is generally pretty good - far better than banks, at any rate. I don't know if there might be issues bringing it across state lines, but you should be able to pop into one of their grocery-store cashless branches and figure that out.
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Jul 1, 2007 01:29
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pik_d posted:I've got a 2003 Dodge Neon R/T (problem spotted!) with around 53k miles on it that I've owned for about 2 years and 10k miles. Yes, you have warped rotors. No, turning rotors is not done for free. Yes, Sears is overcharging. No, you don't have to replace everything just yet. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake4.htm You have to take it to a mechanic, and have them get the rotors re-machined. It's not something you can do in your driveway. However, if you can find a good local mechanic that does good work at fair prices, it's cheaper than replacing the rotors yourself (rotors aren't cheap). Just stay away from super-chains like Sears. You don't want to go to a well-known national chain, you want to go to a well-regarded local shop. Ask around.
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Jul 3, 2007 16:24
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Can you glaze brake pads? I've heard of glazed rotors before but never actual pads? Mainly this is due to my retard friend pulling the handbrake constantly while the pads were bedding in, the rotors look allright but once the brakes get warm I get a constant squeek noise that only stops when you apply the brakes. I was told that there may be deposits on the pads and that they should be sanded down a bit so i'm probably going to try that, does that seem plausible? Or should I try my old pads to see if the problem still occurs? But i've been told that I shouldn't use a set of old pads on new rotors even though they have a tonne of meat left on them.
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Jul 3, 2007 16:42
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Idiot race posted:I was told that there may be deposits on the pads and that they should be sanded down a bit so i'm probably going to try that, does that seem plausible?  ). The cure for glazed brakes is to use your brakes normally. The problem should go away in a couple hundred miles.
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Jul 3, 2007 17:03
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struan87 posted:Don't waste your time. The brakes will sand themselves down (that's how they work I've already put about 300 miles on the pads though, maybe i'm just too soft on the brakes. Or is this an excuse for more spirited driving 
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Jul 3, 2007 17:16
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Idiot race posted:I've already put about 300 miles on the pads though, maybe i'm just too soft on the brakes. Or is this an excuse for more spirited driving
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Jul 3, 2007 17:18
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I just bought a 2003 Civic, and the brake pads need to be replaced. I figured I'd learn a bit more about cars and do it myself, so I got the Haynes manual for it. I got everything needed, then when going to jack up the car, I realized that the manual didn't list any locations on the front of the car where it would be safe to jack it up. Does anyone know any good locations for this? I've read that the tow hook can be a good spot, but it looks like mine has two off-center hooks on the front.
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Jul 3, 2007 17:18
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struan87 posted:It might not be glazing, then. You can give this a try to see if that helps. I'll give that a go tonight then. If it's not that could it be that the rotors are hosed? I've replaced the anti squeel shims with nice new ones and i've got a new set of pad retaining clips to go in as the old ones are a bit bent. Also the caliper sliders action is nice and smooth, so i'm not sure what else it could be.
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Jul 3, 2007 17:47
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http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=224779126 Seems a bit high, I might be able to barter it down. I'm up in the air about this car and some sort of 6 cyl BMW. For the love of my life I can't find a decently priced sporty vehicle. What places am I missing? I've checked AutoTrader and the Seattle Craig List. Any car buying tips would be appreciated.
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Jul 5, 2007 06:27
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I didn't think this warranted it's own thread, so I figured here was a good a place to ask as any. I'm in the process of buying a Subaru Outback for my girlfriend (looking at 2001 - 2003 models). The mileage on most examples I've found is in the 140,000km - 150,000km range. I've noticed that the maintenance schedule calls for a timing belt renewal at 105,000 miles or about 170,000km. Would it be prudent to have the belt renewal done before I pick it up? or is it something that can be left until it gets closer to the called for service interval? Are there any other issues I should keep an eye out for? I'm looking at the 2.5L H4 Limited models specifically MB500SEL fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jul 5, 2007 |
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Jul 5, 2007 16:02
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Anyone have an idea of how much work it would be to do the repairs needed on this car myself? http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/3450048&category=passenger-cars
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Jul 5, 2007 17:30
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If you think this deserves its own thread, let me know. I recently got a job and I'm looking to buy a used car so that I can travel to said job. I'm wondering if anyone has any specific reccomendations for cars that resell well. My work is about 20 miles of freeway away and that is what I'll be using it for most. I'll also be using it to drive to college (10 or 15 miles) this fall. Of course, I'd like something with good gas mileage. I'm probably not going to be driving it a whole lot other than the above uses. I might cart my friends around occasionally, so something roomy would be preferred. Looking at the FAQ, I see I should stick this in here: BUDGET: Lower, maybe a few thousand dollars. I'm flexible. NEW/USED: Used TYPE: Sedan TRANSMISSION: Manual is okay, but I'd prefer automatic LOCATION: Minnesota, meaning snow & ice during the winter (and the salt that it brings) and road construction during the summer I'll be happy to supply more information. This is my first time buying a car and I appreciate all the help I can get
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Jul 5, 2007 18:16
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I don't think that this is enough to make an entire thread about it, so I'll post it here. I drive a '98 Saturn SL2 with 109,000 miles on it and have been doing most of the repairs myself. About a month ago the tensioner arm on the serpentine belt completely failed on my drive home from school, which is about a 30 mile drive. Long story short... no tension on the belt meant the alternator couldn't power the battery, which led me to replace the alternator and battery about a week later. Over the past two days, a new problem has peaked into my rear view. My car, seemingly at random, refuses to start. I checked the connections to my battery (good) and alternator (good also). The battery is completely charged, and with the alternator being brand new, I am doubting that is the problem either. When I turn the ignition the car will make a "click," like it is trying to start, but will not get past that. The electric stuff in the car (windows, alarm, radio) all works fine. If I leave the car sitting somewhere for a few hours, it will start with ease and I can get a good 2-3 starts out of it, but if I run a quick errand, and try to start the car repeatedly within a few minutes, it seems only the will of Satan himself will turn my car from "piece of plastic on wheels that makes cool clicking sounds" to "go-machine." It will click once every time I try the ignition, but will usually start after half a dozen tries and some sweet talking to her. All of the fuses are fine also. Does anyone have any idea what could be happening with my car? I have a feeling that it may be a faulty starter, and will bring it into a shop to confirm/deny, but am wondering if there are any other culprits that I should be on the lookout for.
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Jul 7, 2007 00:12
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Be Konstructive posted:I don't think that this is enough to make an entire thread about it, so I'll post it here. I drive a '98 Saturn SL2 with 109,000 miles on it and have been doing most of the repairs myself. About a month ago the tensioner arm on the serpentine belt completely failed on my drive home from school, which is about a 30 mile drive. Long story short... no tension on the belt meant the alternator couldn't power the battery, which led me to replace the alternator and battery about a week later. I had a similar problem with my saturn sl2, and the starter finally quit on me. Have fun replacing that loving starter  its inbetween the block and the firewall underneath the intake manifold and above the steering rack.
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Jul 7, 2007 02:07
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I just got a '06 eclipse gt automatic. Amazingly fun to drive. But of course i was dumb and did not notice that it says in the manual and the gas cap it says premium only. How bad would it be for me to use regular unleaded gas? Would it kill the engine or ruin anything in the car? I know this is a dumb question but i dont know that much about cars inner workings yet. thanks.
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Jul 7, 2007 02:29
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oh-snap posted:I just got a '06 eclipse gt automatic. Amazingly fun to drive. But of course i was dumb and did not notice that it says in the manual and the gas cap it says premium only. How bad would it be for me to use regular unleaded gas? Would it kill the engine or ruin anything in the car? I know this is a dumb question but i dont know that much about cars inner workings yet. thanks. When you run regular gas, it should retard the timing to prevent pinging. It won't cause any damage, but you'll be down on power and mileage. A tank or two should cause no problems whatsoever.
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Jul 7, 2007 02:35
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oh-snap posted:I just got a '06 eclipse gt automatic. Amazingly fun to drive. But of course i was dumb and did not notice that it says in the manual and the gas cap it says premium only. How bad would it be for me to use regular unleaded gas? Would it kill the engine or ruin anything in the car? I know this is a dumb question but i dont know that much about cars inner workings yet. thanks. If it hasn't been knocking, then I doubt it has caused any damage at all. Maybe your car retards its timing when it detects a lower octane gas being burned. If that's the case, then all you have suffered is a loss of performance. e:f,b
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Jul 7, 2007 02:37
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Uthor posted:If it hasn't been knocking, then I doubt it has caused any damage at all. Maybe your car retards its timing when it detects a lower octane gas being burned. If that's the case, then all you have suffered is a loss of performance. Sorry i should have been more clear. I havn't attempted to do this yet out of fear of breaking my first shiny newish car. But from what i gather i will lose some performance and mileage? Almost seems worth spending more for the premium if i get a little better mileage and am able to keep the performance, correct?
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Jul 7, 2007 02:42
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oh-snap posted:Sorry i should have been more clear. I havn't attempted to do this yet out of fear of breaking my first shiny newish car. But from what i gather i will lose some performance and mileage? Almost seems worth spending more for the premium if i get a little better mileage and am able to keep the performance, correct? You're correct; if the manual calls for premium, then you're better off sticking with that. When all is said and done, you're generally only spending an extra few dollars per tank; and the car runs as it was designed to.
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Jul 7, 2007 02:47
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