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Guinness posted:I know in my old Ford if I ran the AC all the way up til turning the car off, it would be a bit stinky the next time I turned it on. I could avoid this by turning the AC off and just having the fans blowing for about 30-60 seconds before turning the car off if I had been using the AC. quote:If it says run premium, you should really run premium.
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Jul 30, 2007 06:45
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NashAsh posted:Regarding leather care products: I've never used Zymol, but I use the Lexol conditioner. I used to use the cleaner, but I'm too lazy to go through the process with that (use cleaner, rinse with water, dry seats). For cleaner, I use Vinylex leather cleaner. I think it is easier and works better than the Lexol cleaner. I apply the Lexol conditioner with a microfiber towel and leave it sit. I don't buff it off like the bottle recommends.
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Jul 30, 2007 14:51
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Are there any products you would recommend for getting some stains out of my car seats? Both have been there for a decent period of time. I believe one is BBQ Sauce and the other is drops of soda from a leaky cup 
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Jul 30, 2007 15:26
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Moeru posted:Are there any products you would recommend for getting some stains out of my car seats? Both have been there for a decent period of time. I believe one is BBQ Sauce and the other is drops of soda from a leaky cup Leather or cloth seats? If leather, then try the vinylex. If cloth, try blotting it with hot water. I've also used Simple Green and Resolve carpet cleaner with good results. Always test the products on an inconspicuous area first to make sure the color doesn't get ruined.
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Jul 30, 2007 17:46
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Most modern automatic cars seem to give you the option of putting it into first or second gear- I'm assuming that this is for climbing steep hills? Does anyone ever use this in practice?
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Jul 30, 2007 18:11
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paulie walnuts posted:Most modern automatic cars seem to give you the option of putting it into first or second gear- I'm assuming that this is for climbing steep hills? Does anyone ever use this in practice? Pretty much, ascending or descending very steep / slow hills - any time you would keep it in a gear that low on a manual.
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Jul 30, 2007 18:32
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emanonii posted:Leather or cloth seats? If leather, then try the vinylex. If cloth, try blotting it with hot water. I've also used Simple Green and Resolve carpet cleaner with good results. Always test the products on an inconspicuous area first to make sure the color doesn't get ruined. It'd be cloth seats. I'll try the hot water first and see how that goes
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Jul 30, 2007 19:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Pretty much, ascending or descending very steep / slow hills - any time you would keep it in a gear that low on a manual. And towing, according to the owner's manuals.
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Jul 31, 2007 07:46
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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paulie walnuts posted:Most modern automatic cars seem to give you the option of putting it into first or second gear- I'm assuming that this is for climbing steep hills? Does anyone ever use this in practice? Though this is me talking in 4x4 terms... I like 1st for offroad descending/climbing hills; if it's snowy and icy out I much prefer 2nd.
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Jul 31, 2007 08:11
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God I feel really dumb for posting this..but I'm sure it'll save me money. I've never learned how to change my own oil, how would I go about doing this? Also, is it different for each vehicle? And if so, how would I do it on the following. 1999 Ford Windstar 2006 Ford Focus 2007 Chev Cobalt Thanks in advance. Edit: How much of a difference between vehicles?
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Aug 1, 2007 20:13
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The process is the same for all vehicles:
Warm up the car a little bit (not too much or it will be too hot) Loosen the oil filter (do this first so the car will still be drivable if you can't get it off) Remove the oil drain plug, with an adequately-sized catch pan under it Remove the filter after the oil drains Lube the gasket on your new filter with clean oil and install it Replace the oil drain plug (with a new crush washer) Pour in the new oil until it reaches the right level (check with your dipstick) Run the engine for a few minutes Check the level again and add more oil if necessary Funnel all your old oil into the now-empty oil cans and take it to a car parts store or Jiffy Lube for recycling The variables between cars are:
The oil capacity The location of the filter, drain plug, and dipstick Whether or not you need to jack the car up to reach everything Warning: NEVER get under a car supported by a jack. Put it on jack stands instead.
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Aug 1, 2007 20:31
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I just bought an 1993 BMW 325 coupe and something is wrong with the transmission (?). First gear is fine, but when I go over 4-5000 rpms in the 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear, the revs stop at some point and it doesnt go faster unless I put it in a higher gear. Sometimes it goes on and off and then the car goes like t-h-i-s. What's going on? And how deep in trouble am I? (I'm guessing big?) Thanks
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Aug 1, 2007 20:40
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Aamun posted:God I feel really dumb for posting this..but I'm sure it'll save me money. The Windstar and Focus are normal spin ons, the Cobalt is a cannister type. I can't remember off the top of my head, but you might have to take the oil cap off then just grab and pull the plastic cover of the engine off. Now you'll see a silver cannister on the right side of the valve cover near the oil dipstick. Open that poo poo up and pull it all up together, swap out the gasket on the cannister and the oil filter. Easy. struan87 posted:The process is the same for all vehicles: You can add oil without a filter being on. The dipstick method will not work well the way you describe it; if you check the oil before the car is started then you will end up anywhere from half a quart to 2 quarts low - depending on the filter. Jiffy Lube doesn't take old oil. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 1, 2007 |
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Aug 1, 2007 22:19
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Gleisdreieck posted:I just bought an 1993 BMW 325 coupe and something is wrong with the transmission (?). Sounds like the revlimiter... which is weird. Can you explain it in a more detailed fashion? Is there any grinding? The way I understand it, you put it in 1st, release the clutch, car moves. You can rev to XXXXrpms, then shift into 2nd, and it only revs to 5000rpms? Could be a misfire, a slipping clutch, lord knows what.
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Aug 1, 2007 22:48
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BlackMK4 posted:You can remove the filter while the oil is draining or before... infact it doesn't matter when you do. quote:The dipstick method will not work well the way you describe it; if you check the oil before the car is started then you will end up anywhere from half a quart to 2 quarts low - depending on the filter. quote:Jiffy Lube doesn't take old oil.
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Aug 1, 2007 23:17
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BlackMK4 posted:if you check the oil before the car is started then you will end up anywhere from half a quart to 2 quarts low - depending on the filter. Or if you prefill the filter  I've never bothered checking the oil level until afterwards. Look up the correct amount, dump it in the engine, warm it up, shut it down, THEN check.
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Aug 1, 2007 23:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Look up the correct amount, dump it in the engine ...is there any that doesn't drain out?
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Aug 1, 2007 23:35
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baptism of fiber posted:Why is the exhaust note of the G35/350Z/FX35 so nice? Is there something special about the VQ35DE, or is there some acoustical tuning going in in the exhaust system? Most of it is the engine, but the exhaust also has a variable volume setup. It opens up at higher revs to allow more flow.
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Aug 2, 2007 00:18
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My radiator is faulty in my '93 tercel and in the summer sometimes the car gets really close to overheating. So I blast the heat and the temp goes back down a bit but I worry that it's bad for the car. Is it or can I just keep doing this?
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Aug 2, 2007 00:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:Or if you prefill the filter Oh dayum  Yeah, I do it the way you do also.struan87 posted:If you put in the full amount, won't you be over-full because of the small amount that didn't drain out? Yeah, some doesn't drain out... but generally it's not enough to cause overfilled... meh. When you're working with wonky numbers like 8.1Q to be full I generally just throw in an even 8, since anywhere in that full area is ok (and my truck eats oil when I beat on it, so I end up adding a quart of makeup oil ). Tip: From bottom of full mark to top of full mark is one full quart.struan87 posted:True, but it sucks if you have to run to the store for a filter wrench and the oil's already out of the car. Odd, around here they're not allowed to take it because they take the oil to recycling and it costs money. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Aug 2, 2007 |
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Aug 2, 2007 01:28
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Is the Neuspeed P-Chip for an '05 GTI crappy? Are the offerings from APR and GIAC better? edit: What I really want to know is will the P-Chip that came on my friends car eventually blow it up? Ize fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Aug 2, 2007 |
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Aug 2, 2007 06:00
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Anoyone know where I can get an adjustment spanner for a set of Apexi N1 coilovers? Also that ships to the uk.
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Aug 2, 2007 20:52
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Has anybody done this for their Saab (http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=29_133&products_id=2716)? It doesn't look too difficult but if somebody with experience could verify this that'd be great. Also, can it be controlled using steering wheel controls/dash controls or do you have to do it on the iPod directly? I know the AudioTroll thing can do it (http://www.granite-embedded.com/products.php) but it seems to never be in stock. More info on that would be great too.
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Aug 2, 2007 21:44
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How much of a difference should a good oil change make? I'm not talking Amsoil giving you sexual services by fourty thai girls, but real differences. I finally gave my recently bought 91' MR2 its first oil change since I've had it. The previous owner used the JiffyLube special according to the recipts in the glovebox. So I serviced the car with 4QTs of Mobil1 10W30 and a NAPA filter. Nothing special. Started it up, let the new oil fill the passageways and after a few moments, went on a short drive. Initially I didn't really notice much, it was just an oil change after all. Getting onto the freeway though, I noticed its initial pickup was sharper. A number of subtle things seemed different after a few highway miles; the idle was smoother and the engine doesn't seem to be as noisy. Tell me I'm hallucinating.
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Aug 4, 2007 07:14
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XFDRaven posted:Tell me I'm hallucinating. Question: I've seen these on several cars, and I have no idea where to buy them and cannot apparently find the right term to find them online. Basically, it's a piece used primarily on drift cars to lock the hand brake release button, so that you can yank the hand brake and be assured it will release when you release the lever. They're typically in the form of a toggle ring on the base of the button - flip to one side, release button is depressed and parking brake engages but will not hold itself up, flip to the other, parking brake behaves normally. What are these called, and where can I get one (for a '91 MX-5, if it matters)?
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Aug 4, 2007 07:46
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It didnt have more power, it just felt more "fluid." Like it isn't thinking about it anymore.
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Aug 4, 2007 08:06
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Krakkles posted:It may be smoother and quieter (maaaaybe) but you're definitely hallucinating on the power. There was a ricer here that used to post and I think he called it "drift brake button " or something along that venue. http://www.driftfactory.com/dbinstall.php?osCsid=b0808a5b441bd0f27329b49d6db5 Is this something along the lines of what you are looking for?
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Aug 4, 2007 17:32
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What makes a half ton truck a half ton? 
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Aug 4, 2007 17:50
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AXE EFFECT posted:There was a ricer here that used to post and I think he called it "drift brake button " or something along that venue. Yes, that's it exactly. Now I just have to figure out where to buy one in the US. (I found that particular one on greenline.jp, but I'm not certain they ship to the US and I don't know how much 2472 yen is ) edit: Driftfactory has one they say works on Mazdas, and they're local to me. But they're not answering their phones Mr Newsman posted:What makes a half ton truck a half ton? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Aug 4, 2007 |
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Aug 4, 2007 20:17
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz445_5xNWI In that video, what's the sputtering growling? Is is the muffler or cat? Or something worse? My car does the same thing and I notice a funny smell on the rear driver's side wheel after driving for a while.
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Aug 6, 2007 19:34
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XFDRaven posted:It didnt have more power, it just felt more "fluid." Like it isn't thinking about it anymore. Would you say that the term "Throttle Response" is a good way to describe what you felt? Because every time I've ever changed the oil in any car (and I'm pretty consistent about what I use) there's an immediate improvement in throttle response that is slight but tangible.
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Aug 6, 2007 19:41
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I'm having trouble starting my 1997 Saturn SC2 lately. I crank it once, nothing, but it's done that for years. The second time, it'll turn over then either immediately die or cough for a second or so before dying. The third time, starts immediately and revs up to about 2500 for a few seconds. This only happens from a cold start, if it's been running in the last half hour or so it starts immediately. My friend thinks it's the starter, but I'm not so sure. It seems almost like a fuel issue to me, especially since when it first started it got worse as my fuel tank emptied. Now it just does it all the time. How can I more accurately diagnose this/any idea what's wrong?
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Aug 6, 2007 20:42
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What exactly does the dealer do when they flush your cooling system? I recently did all my 30k interval maintenance on my '04 WRX. All I have left to do is have the fuel injection system cleaned/flushed and the cooling system flushed. Subaru says that it's vital to the engine, and for my remaining warranty. I realize I can basically only drain my radiator with the tools that I have, so I'm wondering what it is that their magical flushing system does exactly. Same thing with the fuel injection cleaning. I've never owned a new car before, so this is all new territory for me.
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Aug 6, 2007 21:29
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I think i either have a bad ECT sensor or a bad theromostat in my 97 explorer. I can't seem to find the ECT. Does anyone have a 97 explorer who knows where the sensor is, and is willing to take pics to show me? I've checked 3 different service manuals and none of them give me a clear picture of reference.
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Aug 6, 2007 21:49
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grzydj posted:What exactly does the dealer do when they flush your cooling system? I recently did all my 30k interval maintenance on my '04 WRX. All I have left to do is have the fuel injection system cleaned/flushed and the cooling system flushed. Subaru says that it's vital to the engine, and for my remaining warranty. Well the easy way for the DIYer to do it is to drain all you can out of the system, then put a garden hose in the top of the radiator and blast the system out with water. Once you see clear water come out of the hoses (disconnect the heater core hose) then it should be flushed. But it won't be as complete as doin it the way we do it at the dealership, which is blast coolant backwards through the thermostat (30 pounds of pressure to open the thermostat backwards) flushing the old coolant out with the new.
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Aug 6, 2007 23:03
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Dark Solux posted:Well the easy way for the DIYer to do it is to drain all you can out of the system, then put a garden hose in the top of the radiator and blast the system out with water. Once you see clear water come out of the hoses (disconnect the heater core hose) then it should be flushed. I did that with my old Toyota's before with decent results. I guess I'll just have to buck up and pay the dealership to do this and the fuel injection cleaning thing.
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Aug 7, 2007 12:56
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grzydj posted:I did that with my old Toyota's before with decent results. I guess I'll just have to buck up and pay the dealership to do this and the fuel injection cleaning thing. Fuel injection cleaning? Sounds like they'll pour some poo poo in your gas tank and spray carb cleaner down your intake tract. If you're lucky they will do a treatment similar to seafoam (suck it in through a vacume hose). It is fun when we do that. Smoke ahoy!
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Aug 7, 2007 22:25
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I have a question for any Austin goons (or maybe Texas at large): my car needs a sticker and I want to find a garage that is not staffed by assmasters. My car is slightly modified (suspension, intake exhaust - all legal, nothing crazy). Still it seems like many garages see a modified car and just start breaking balls. Please help me find a decent one! 
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Aug 8, 2007 01:47
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deviant. posted:I have a question for any Austin goons (or maybe Texas at large): my car needs a sticker and I want to find a garage that is not staffed by assmasters. My car is slightly modified (suspension, intake exhaust - all legal, nothing crazy). Still it seems like many garages see a modified car and just start breaking balls. Seriously if everything is legal you really have nothing to worry about.
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Aug 8, 2007 01:54
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Imperialist Sugar posted:Seriously if everything is legal you really have nothing to worry about. Hahahahahahahaa. You've never had a modified car, have you? It doesn't matter if it's legal - some mechanics will just give you trouble anyway. It has to do with prejudice and stupidity, not legality.
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Aug 8, 2007 02:07
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