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a while ago I mentioned in the 'things you don't know and are ashamed to ask' thread that I don't know if engine braking is bad for my Turbo diesel. I then promptly went on holiday and lost the thread, so i never got a smartass reply, which I need to validate my internet existence. Any help?
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Sep 21, 2007 15:24
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When going to court to plead not guilty to a citation, can you also plead not guilty to warnings on the same ticket?
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Sep 21, 2007 18:39
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Leviathor posted:When going to court to plead not guilty to a citation, can you also plead not guilty to warnings on the same ticket?
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Sep 21, 2007 18:49
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struan87 posted:Why do you need to plead to warnings at all? It doesn't matter if you're guilty or not since nothing can be done with them in court. Because it was a wrongful accusation, and the officer was extremely condescending.
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Sep 21, 2007 18:54
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Leviathor posted:Because it was a wrongful accusation, and the officer was extremely condescending.
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Sep 21, 2007 19:05
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struan87 posted:What would that gain, though? It might make you look worse to challenge the officer unnecessarily, even if he was wrong. Alright, thanks.
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Sep 21, 2007 19:11
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Cakefool posted:a while ago I mentioned in the 'things you don't know and are ashamed to ask' thread that I don't know if engine braking is bad for my Turbo diesel. I then promptly went on holiday and lost the thread, so i never got a smartass reply, which I need to validate my internet existence. Smartass reply? OK, I'll give it a shot: Yes, you idiot, engine braking is terrible for your turbo diesel. That's why dedicated engine brake systems not only saw no use on large trucks with turbo diesel engines, but were recently outlawed because of the wholesale engine destruction that they caused. In addition, it's been well proven that simply taking your foot off the accelerator in any diesel car will void your warranty, put holes in the pistons, and send conrods shooting out of the block to kill you and everyone you love. (Seriously, you're fine.)
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Sep 21, 2007 19:25
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I also never got a smartass reply to my question after I forgot about posting in this thread! I also seek validation!Revol posted:I've got a 91 Plymyth Colt, Mitsubishi engine, two door, hatchback. 60k miles (bought for 500 bucks with 40k miles), never had a series problem, besides accidents I've been in (passenger side door is completely bent in.. still works, though).
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Sep 22, 2007 17:59
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Is there such thing as driving an older car (pre-1980) that would need less care and attention then say a modern BMW or Volkswagen? I'd really like to own an old car for everyday use, but what's the possibility that it would be more enjoyable than a pain in my rear end?
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Sep 22, 2007 22:49
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Can someone tell me is the Holden Barina City 3Door 1999 an unsafe car or not? I can't seem to find any crash test results. It seems some barinas did quite badly in crash tests, but I don't know about this specific one.
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Sep 23, 2007 02:36
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I have a dumb question about reversing cameras. I was checking out a number of units on eBay, when I came across something that stumped me. Now, I understand installing the camera to the wires for my reversing lights so it only draws runs when I'm reversing. But why does the monitor have a "back" as well as a ground and 12V wire? What does it connect to? Here's what I'm talking about : 
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Sep 25, 2007 06:28
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I picked up a 95 Ford Escort, and in trying to get it registered I was informed there was a hole in the exhaust. When I looked at it, I discovered there's a section at the front that's become disconnected. It's a wire mesh tube that connects the exhaust, and the front half (going to the engine) looks like it's just come out. There appears to have been a weld or other seal at one point. It's not wildly far off, it's still touching, but I'm not sure how to go about reconnecting it and sealing it back up in a way which would pass inspection. My current plan involves just getting under it and sliding it back in, but I'm not sure what to do about keeping it back in once I've gotten it there. Is this something simple or is it more complex than just putting it back together?
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Sep 25, 2007 23:26
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I understand superchargers improve performance, especially at low RPMs compared to turbos. A big drawback to them is that they reduce fuel economy. Why aren't there superchargers on a clutch which is engaged when the throttle reaches a certain position or the driver flips a switch? This would improve fuel economy for normal driving and still provide an improvement in performance. Is it because the torque load (or whatever it's called) required to engage the supercharger is too high for a clutch that would fit? Is it that starting and stopping the supercharger would ruin the bearings or vanes?
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Sep 26, 2007 01:24
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Man In The Boat posted:I understand superchargers improve performance, especially at low RPMs compared to turbos. A big drawback to them is that they reduce fuel economy. Why aren't there superchargers on a clutch which is engaged when the throttle reaches a certain position or the driver flips a switch? This would improve fuel economy for normal driving and still provide an improvement in performance. Toyota had a system like this for their Previa I believe. Most people looking at supercharged cars aren't the same people looking for fuel sippers. Unless its one of those tiny 1L forced induction cars 
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Sep 26, 2007 01:30
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Man In The Boat posted:I understand superchargers improve performance, especially at low RPMs compared to turbos. A big drawback to them is that they reduce fuel economy. Why aren't there superchargers on a clutch which is engaged when the throttle reaches a certain position or the driver flips a switch? This would improve fuel economy for normal driving and still provide an improvement in performance. Actually, the favored RPM range varies with the type of 'charger. I think Roots types are the ones that give good low RPM performance. I'm still not convinced they're better on a small engine because of the drag losses - a glance at a supercharged Integra dyno sheet shows only a small gain on the low end and not much more on top. Jackson Racing does use a bypass that, uh, bypasses the supercharger at light loads.
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Sep 26, 2007 01:44
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Man In The Boat posted:I understand superchargers improve performance, especially at low RPMs compared to turbos. A big drawback to them is that they reduce fuel economy. Why aren't there superchargers on a clutch which is engaged when the throttle reaches a certain position or the driver flips a switch? This would improve fuel economy for normal driving and still provide an improvement in performance. Mk1 MR2 superchargers use an A/C style magnetic clutch pulley, activated at 3100rpm or so.
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Sep 26, 2007 05:30
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I recently got a new job that leaves me with more money to spend on cars! Im looking to start restoring an older truck. Im mainly interested in older Fords anything under 1980 model year. However Ive also seen some older International trucks for sale. How do these compare to older fords? Are parts going to be much harder and expensive to find? Anything else I should know about International?
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Sep 26, 2007 07:09
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Gorilla Salad posted:I have a dumb question about reversing cameras. I was checking out a number of units on eBay, when I came across something that stumped me. So you can have something else on the monitor (playstation/porn/whatever) playing and it will switch to the reverse camera when its in reverse and then back when you take it out. Wire the "back" wire to your reverse lights just like you did with the camera.
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Sep 26, 2007 07:27
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Man In The Boat posted:I understand superchargers improve performance, especially at low RPMs compared to turbos. A big drawback to them is that they reduce fuel economy. Why aren't there superchargers on a clutch which is engaged when the throttle reaches a certain position or the driver flips a switch? This would improve fuel economy for normal driving and still provide an improvement in performance.
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Sep 26, 2007 07:38
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I'm gonna try asking one last time, as I'm getting desperate because this is causing me to not be able to be driving at night which is hurting my ability to go on the prowl for ladies and in fact I think the hot secretary at work has been dropping a lot of hints at me and might want to go out with me but I'll be screwed if I tried since I can't drive at nightquote:I've got a 91 Plymyth Colt, Mitsubishi engine, two door, hatchback. 60k miles (bought for 500 bucks with 40k miles), never had a series problem, besides accidents I've been in (passenger side door is completely bent in.. still works, though).
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Sep 28, 2007 02:20
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1994 Toyota Camry LE, 5S-FE engine Auto trans Replaced the radiator on my g/f's car. There is a pocket of air in the system now. There is no bleed valve on the t-stat housing, or anywhere on the system. Temp, of course, fluctuates. I have the .pdf of the Toyota shop manual (on ToyotaNation), Bleeding system is not in the procedure for rad replacement. Pocket persists. I have attempted to bleed the system via opening t-stat housing. Solid coolant flow. Opened rad cap, its right at the top. What does AI recommend? Perhaps, a BFH? EDIT: Problem solved. Overflow tank was siphoning the system a little bit too much. BITBY fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Sep 28, 2007 |
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Sep 28, 2007 04:18
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In a car with a standard transmission... is it wise to open the throttle/press the accelerator all the way when in a high gear? For example, I've found myself trying to cross a divided "highway" (Connecticuit Ave at Aspen Hill, MD) and sometimes able to pass through the division without stopping and waiting until it's safe to merge. However, for those times when I try not to stop but the traffic doesn't necessarily want to slow down for me, I'd like to be able to merge without causing a slowdown. Now, I realize that my Camry's V6 engine is notorious for the lack of low-end torque, but shifting into 1st from 2nd is difficult with the annoying safety mechanism. I'm often left with staying in 2nd at around 1.5k-2k RPM versus downshifting to 1st in order to make use of this thing's torque band. Out of all that nonsense my question is.. is it bad to lead-foot the accelerator when I'm in too high of a gear? edit: just thought about google maps. the red arrow is the beginning of the stop. sometimes I can make it through the division [green arrow], but sometimes I have to stop. 
tkNukem fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Sep 28, 2007 |
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Sep 28, 2007 19:46
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tkNukem posted:In a car with a standard transmission... The V6 camry was never offered with a standard. You have the 4 cyl (5s-fe/2az-fe). And it won't damage it too much. However it isn't reccomended. Lugging the engine and all that.
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Sep 28, 2007 20:55
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This seems the most appropriate place to ask if anyone knows what this car is:
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Sep 28, 2007 21:32
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Dark Solux posted:The V6 camry was never offered with a standard. You have the 4 cyl (5s-fe/2az-fe). And it won't damage it too much. However it isn't reccomended. Lugging the engine and all that. yes sir, it was - the standard came standard on the 1993 Camry SE V6, from what i understand. either way, my 3vz-fe engine has a 5 speed next to it. are you thinking of the gen 3.5's and up that have the 1mz-fe? in any event, would having a v6 make a difference? I mean, applying gas at low rpms in a high gear would affect the drivetrain moreso than the engine, right?
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Sep 28, 2007 22:04
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tkNukem posted:yes sir, it was - the standard came standard on the 1993 Camry SE V6, from what i understand. either way, my 3vz-fe engine has a 5 speed next to it. are you thinking of the gen 3.5's and up that have the 1mz-fe? Yeah I was thinking the ones with the 1mz/3mz/2gr-fe. My mistake. Your car should be fine. It would affect the engine moreso than the drivetrain-- The drivetrain isn't seeing much shock from the sudden application of throttle when its so down low. I'd be more concerned about lugging the engine. But I'm sure it will be fine.
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Sep 28, 2007 22:53
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Dark Solux posted:The V6 camry was never offered with a standard. You have the 4 cyl (5s-fe/2az-fe). And it won't damage it too much. However it isn't reccomended. Lugging the engine and all that. I see you were corrected but yeah, you most definitely can get a Camry with a V6 and a mantran - my mother-in-law has a V6 five-speed Camry. It doesn't make it any less terrible to drive, though. Second gear is not what I'd call a 'high' gear. If you're rolling you're good - it's quite possible to launch many cars in second if you so choose / forget to grab first. Hell, I'm pretty sure my dad launched his Camaro in third at least once without hardly even noticing...yay torque! Vince: That's an early third-generation Corvette, aka a chrome-bumpered shark. 1968 through sometime in the early/mid '70s, when they replaced the chrome bumpers with plastic.
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Sep 28, 2007 22:58
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Revol posted:I'm gonna try asking one last time, as I'm getting desperate because this is causing me to not be able to be driving at night which is hurting my ability to go on the prowl for ladies and in fact I think the hot secretary at work has been dropping a lot of hints at me and might want to go out with me but I'll be screwed if I tried since I can't drive at night Electrical problems are a bitch to diagnose, and pretty much impossible over the Internet unless it's some kind of common problem. There's probably some kind of short between the taillight and brake light, but that could be anywhere. Your accident might have had something to do with it, or it might be the socket, or a connection somewhere, or God only knows what. Vince McMahon posted:This seems the most appropriate place to ask if anyone knows what this car is:
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Sep 28, 2007 23:11
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Is there any benefit whatsoever to iridium spark plugs to the standard platinum ones other than the price? Or is this something that will only make a difference in a car with an upgraded ignition system (distributor, plug wires, etc.)? Something like this iridium plug: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2005160/p-2005160/N-111+10201+600001630/c-10101 vs. this platinum plug: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2005157/p-2005157/N-111+10201+600001630/c-10101
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Sep 28, 2007 23:47
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Thanks Space Gopher. I've had a look at the third gen ones and it looks like it's a '71 Corvette Coupe. I'd kill for one of those!
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Sep 29, 2007 00:07
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obso posted:So you can have something else on the monitor (playstation/porn/whatever) playing and it will switch to the reverse camera when its in reverse and then back when you take it out. Wire the "back" wire to your reverse lights just like you did with the camera. Thanks. I knew it was something incredibly obvious that I was missing there. The back wire is for backing up. Duh is me.
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Sep 29, 2007 02:57
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1998 Acura Integra GS-R 3 door Alright, I'm a little frustrated. Sometimes my trunk will open when I try to use the exterior rear latch, most times it wont. When I try to use my ignition key to do it manually without the exterior rear latch it wont turn, I think the previous owner stiffed me with a valet key. My last Integra had a trunk release right next to the gas cover release that is conspicuously absent in this years model. I know it may be a really specific question for a general Auto forum, but Ive asked at several Acura forums and I seem to get glanced over. Is anyone familiar with this model enough to tell me if theres a manual release I may be missing somewhere? Ive even tried forcing the lock from inside the trunk, but no luck there. Any advice at all I could get would be greatly appreciated.
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Sep 29, 2007 07:30
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Ok, this may be frowned upon but i've been really debating with myself here and with car audio most may glaze over and skip this but its worth a try, right? Fry's has a cheap setup of two 12" fusion speakers and an 800 watt amp w/ box for less then 200 bucks. Since my amp died (kenwood 1000W class D) i've been severely lacking in the bass department and can't hardly listen to music at all in my truck since. Does anyone have any experience with fusion speakers? I have 4 6" infinity kappa rounds (one in each door) and 2 1" infinity kappa tweeters in the dash. I want to help round out my sound so booming bass isn't a concern, just something that kicks well. I've been having a hard time coming up with reviews online and this deal seems to good to be true. I know that subs like most things are 'you get what you pay for' kind of deal so i'm obviously weary. I was immediately turned off by the fact that the cones are a lime green color and that it includes the box, a wiring kit, amp, and speakers for less then 200$.
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Sep 29, 2007 09:34
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Might be a dumb question, but its a topic I've never really talked about or read about. When an engine gets its timing belt replaced, is its "timing" re-tuned? Also, what does this timing involve? I know its related to intake and exhaust and has something to do with being measured in degrees but i cant for the life of me explain the whole process. I cant really connect to each other. Also, when timing is altered, what changes in the engine? Is idle effected? Detonation? I ask these questions because im about to get a timing belt change, however on occasion (after i thrash it a little) my car's idle will go really rough and fluctuate a lot (on the brink of stalling up to 1000rpm up and down). If the timing belt change and timing alterations don't have anything to do with that i'll need to look elsewhere to solve the problem. For what it's worth, fuel filter has been changed, theres new oil, the coil packs were checked and i have new spark plugs however it seems like the problem has persisted. delljit fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Sep 29, 2007 |
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Sep 29, 2007 16:26
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God I fucking love Diablo 3 gold, it even paid for this shitty title
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I want to leave my spare tire in my garage so I can get a few more mph from my 98 toyota avalon. I always have some fix a flat in the trunk. Do you think it would be ok to leave the tire at home? If so, what can be put in place of the empty space where my tire used to be? I attempted to put in large pieces of styrofoam, but they don't fix exactly, and I'm afraid anything heavy that I put into the trunk can crush it.
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Sep 29, 2007 22:04
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shinshocker posted:I want to leave my spare tire in my garage so I can get a few more mph from my 98 toyota avalon. I always have some fix a flat in the trunk. Do you think it would be ok to leave the tire at home? If so, what can be put in place of the empty space where my tire used to be? I attempted to put in large pieces of styrofoam, but they don't fix exactly, and I'm afraid anything heavy that I put into the trunk can crush it. You're far better off keeping the spare. Not only is a spare tire easier to put on, it is definitely much safer in certain situations. I would focus your weight cutting on, if anything, the interior. Honestly, though, is it really going to pay off in the end? This car was meant to be an honest daily-driver.
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Sep 30, 2007 00:13
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Meaty Potato posted:Ok, this may be frowned upon but i've been really debating with myself here and with car audio most may glaze over and skip this but its worth a try, right? solved my own question and went ahead and plopped down the 200 bucks for two 12" subs. Not disappointed. 
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Sep 30, 2007 01:44
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I'd rather post this here then in the shitacular GTR thread how much effect do turbos have on gas milage? The GTR is using a 3.8L V6 with shitloads of boost in order to make 480 hp out of it, so is the gas milage going to be comparable to a NA V8, better, or worse? I guess it's really comparing it to an LS7 because that's the big competitor
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Sep 30, 2007 02:32
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Hey guys, I ran a search and skimmed the first few pages to no avail. So, sorry if this has already been answered. I've got an '03 mustang and need to top the oil off but I bought the wrong oil. The manual says 5w-20 oil and I've got 5w-30. Would topping it off with the wrong weight (and thus mixing the two) be a bad call? Thanks in advance for any help.
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Sep 30, 2007 03:57
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delljit posted:Might be a dumb question, but its a topic I've never really talked about or read about. Timing isn't retuned, but set. It can be set at the time the belt is changed though. Timing involves the opening and closing of valves in relation to piston position in the cylinder. Bad example, but imagine a firecracker exploding in a 1-liter bottle. Now imagine the same firecracker exploding in a 3-liter bottle. The 1-liter will be damaged more - less space, same amount of explosion. If a spark ignites the gas when the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder, it makes less power than if the piston is at the top of the cylinder. quote:I ask these questions because im about to get a timing belt change, however on occasion (after i thrash it a little) my car's idle will go really rough and fluctuate a lot (on the brink of stalling up to 1000rpm up and down). If the timing belt change and timing alterations don't have anything to do with that i'll need to look elsewhere to solve the problem. I'd put money on it saying the throttle position sensor needs adjustment, or replacement. Cheap fix, $30 bucks at most, plus labor. Lots of good general info here - http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system1.htm
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Sep 30, 2007 07:40
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