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DemonStar posted:1998 Acura Integra GS-R 3 door What color is your key? The valet key for an Integra is grey - if yours is black, it's not the valet key. And if for some reason you don't have an orignal copy, try it on the glove box -if it doesn't work there, it's a valet copy. I have an 00 Integra LS, same basic vehicle as a 98 GS-R, and there is no trunk release inside the car. You might just have to consider replacing the latch mechanism, as it's a massive piece of crap.
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Sep 30, 2007 21:37
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How feasible would it be to convert a Mercedes 300SD('91-'93, 250k miles) into biodiesel? Also, if I were to do such a thing, how difficult is it to find vegetable oil to fuel the car with, and would that kind of arrangement be doable for a car I plan on driving every day (i.e., is it more expensive in the long run)?
Yeticopter fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 1, 2007 |
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Oct 1, 2007 02:44
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Somtimes my car will idle too low/choppy so before I try anything fancier I want to just see if I can adjust the carb to make it idle just a little bit higher. How does one go about doing this exactly? It's a Q jet.
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Oct 1, 2007 04:47
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Vince McMahon posted:This seems the most appropriate place to ask if anyone knows what this car is: I was beaten to the answer, but I surprisingly recognize that as a scene from Apollo 13 in which Gary Sinise watches the launch go on without him. The launch occured in spring of 1970, so, assuming the film's accuracy, that limits the year range to 1970 and earlier. Edit: that's a terrible aspect ratio which makes the car look
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Oct 1, 2007 05:04
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giancarlo posted:What color is your key? The valet key for an Integra is grey - if yours is black, it's not the valet key. And if for some reason you don't have an orignal copy, try it on the glove box -if it doesn't work there, it's a valet copy. Yeah the key works everywhere else. I was hoping to avoid pulling the entire mechanism out, but hopefully if I do the replacement unit wont be nearly as screwy. Thanks, 
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Oct 1, 2007 05:19
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Alright, read all 20-some-odd pages...here goes: 1. I just got an '07 Rabbit (Golf) August 2nd, and am coming up on the 5000 mile service (drive too much, drat Houston.) I know it's not included, so how much should I expect to pay for this? The owner's manual lists oil change, reset service interval and rotate tires front/rear. I've pretty much always changed my own oil, and was pissed I had to pay for a water pump during a timing chain replacement on my old 1/2-ton Suburban. The only thing I can't do (I think) is reset the service interval. I say 'I think' because I'm pretty handy, just don't know how to reset that specifically. 2. Is this a good deal (in case it's gone, it was a Bentley CD manual, VAG6 VW Volkswagen Jetta Rabbit 2006-07 service CD), or is there a better place to buy such things, or a better version of this manual? Is there a paper version? I don't prefer paper necessarily, but it has its advantages. (Here's where it gets nit-picky) 3. The new Golf/Rabbit comes with (only) the 2.5L Inline 5 Cylinder, and it seems to run rough almost all the time. I got the manual transmission, so it may be particular to that one. When sitting still, the engine shakes the car a bit; not regularly, either, more like my grandpa's irregular heartbeat. Should I be worried about a bit of shake, or do engines with odd-numbered banks of cylinders just run differently than even-numbered? I haven't ragged it out, in fact, it's not really powerful enough for me to feel like zipping all over everywhere. I've only made a single payment as of yet, and tend to run cars into the ground (in a good way), my 290,000 mile suburban being a case in point, so abusing it isn't my style. More manual gearbox specificity: 4. When decelerating from freeway speed, is it better to downshift, including 'blips' up to proper throttle speed, or better to take the tranny out of gear and coast, slowing mainly (entirely) with brakes? Does slowing down your engine exclusively with the brakes cause premature wear, or does allowing the engine to brake you somewhat (with the clutch fully released, allowing no slip at all) prolong brake life? Are there other concerns which might weigh on this question? For instance, a friend of mine has an automatic Maxima with ailing brakes, and would shift into neutral before braking, since he would be slowing the engine with the brakes as well. He just wanted to prolong the brakes as much as he could. Further, as a child, I noticed in movies that drivers in manual vehicles would seemingly hit both brakes and clutch simultaneously, which might actually be where I got these questions from...all of 'em!
Oddhair fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Oct 2, 2007 |
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Oct 2, 2007 05:26
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Oddhair posted:More manual gearbox specificity: For 1-3, you should check out either http://www.vwvortex.com or http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/ For 4, downshifting poorly will add wear to your clutch, but if you leave it in gear while braking, you're not doing any damage. You'll even get better fuel economy as your car will be turning your engine and it won't require any fuel. I personally feel I stop faster like this and I like being in gear in case I need to move out of the way of something. By pressing in your clutch, you save a bit of wear on it, but you lose brake life. Your friend with the Maxima is thinking all wrong. With the car in drive, his wheels will be turning the engine while braking, not vice-versa. This means the engine is helping him decelerate in addition to his brakes. With the car in neutral, it's all brakes and he's adding more wear. He should really get his brakes fixed if this is a concern. Some people like to use one foot on the clutch and the other on the brake and accelerator for better rev-matching when down shifting and braking at the same time. I don't really think it's possible in the new Rabbits due to the pedal layout (assuming it is the same as on my GTI).
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Oct 2, 2007 05:37
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Uthor posted:By pressing in your clutch, you save a bit of wear on it, but you lose brake life. Erm, if you leave it in gear then you aren't putting any wear on any part of the clutch. If you downshift through every gear you're putting wear on it. The best way to stop is to just leave it in gear, brake when necessary, and take it out of gear before you lug the engine. Your momentum will turn your engine, saving you fuel (in neutral your engine has to burn fuel to keep itself rotating since it's disconnected from the wheels). Leaving it in gear minimizes (the very negligible) wear on the clutch and throwout bearing, and saves your brakes a bit. It doesn't do any harm to the engine at all. Plus I just hate the feel of coasting in neutral at any sort of speed. Guinness fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Oct 2, 2007 |
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Oct 2, 2007 06:12
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Can anyone give me some info on this truck? Like, does it have an american counterpart? Is this just the worldwide version of the Frontier? I would think not, but I would like to defer to the experts here. http://nissan-me.com/English/Pages/vehicles/pick-up/index.htm Google isn't to kind when the only name you can put in "nissan pick-up" you know? Is the KA24DE a decent engine? Diesel isn't really an option where I'm at so its not like I have too many choices. Thanks guys.
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Oct 2, 2007 10:20
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Why can I not find a repair manual for my 1983 Mazda 929? I've searched and searched but the earliest year for 929s I can find is '89, despite them being around since '73. Will an '83 626 manual be close enough or what? There isn't actually anything wrong with my car, I'm just interested in learning.
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Oct 2, 2007 10:35
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Thanks for your responses, and thanks Uthor for the Golfmkv forums, I had already joined vwvortex. I know you aren't both telling me that coasting uses no gas at all, obviously there's still combustion, just less gas than accelerating or maintaining speed. It just seems to me that the engine idling at ~800 RPM is going to net me less fuel usage than ~2000-3000, no matter if I'm accelerating, coasting or decelerating at 2000. Everything else aside, my terrible rev-matching is probably the worst culprit when it comes to clutch destruction, but I have driven a manual vehicle I got used with a not-new clutch over 60,000 miles before the clutch (throwout bearing, really) finally went out, so even that's probably not too bad. I just tend to overthink certain types of problems.
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Oct 2, 2007 20:28
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mobn posted:Finally got a chance to get under the hood, and tracked the squeak down to the serpentine belt. It's coming from the pulley on the top-right if you're facing the front of the car. The strange thing is, there's no fluid of any kind on the belt, the belt itself has not slipped, and the belt seems to be in perfectly fine condition, so I don't understand why the gently caress it's squeaking unless it's related to the sudden drop in temperature we've had this past week or so. Do you think it is the actual belt doing it, or perhaps a bearing in whatever it is attached to being noisy? If you look straight down on top of the pulley when it moves do you see it wobble?
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Oct 2, 2007 20:50
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Oddhair posted:Thanks for your responses, and thanks Uthor for the Golfmkv forums, I had already joined vwvortex. Engine coasting/braking uses no fuel. When you let your foot off the gas and are engine braking, the injectors do not inject any fuel. The computer will see that the throttle position sensor is at idle, manifold vacuum is high, and the O2 sensors go full lean and will go into open loop to stop the process of injecting fuel. When the RPMs of the engine drop below a certain point (a little bit above idle speed) the injectors will start opening again and combustion will occur.
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Oct 2, 2007 22:07
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Oddhair posted:I know you aren't both telling me that coasting uses no gas at all, obviously there's still combustion, just less gas than accelerating or maintaining speed. It just seems to me that the engine idling at ~800 RPM is going to net me less fuel usage than ~2000-3000, no matter if I'm accelerating, coasting or decelerating at 2000. Yes, we are telling you that when you are coasting in gear you are using exactly zero fuel. There is no fuel being injected into the cylinders whether you're coasting at 8000 RPM or 2000 RPM. The ECU interprets your speed and throttle position and cuts fuel injection. Granted, if you drop really low it will start injecting fuel again to avoid stalling, but at that point you should be either coming to a stop or you're not intending to stop and you need to go to a lower gear to quit lugging your engine. The vehicles momentum is turning the engine, and the compression of air in the cylinders (along with plenty of other forces) are creating friction and stopping power. This is also why engine braking is much more pronounced at higher RPMs. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 2, 2007 |
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Oct 2, 2007 23:12
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Guinness posted:Yes, we are telling you that when you are coasting in gear you are using exactly zero fuel. There is no fuel being injected into the cylinders whether you're coasting at 8000 RPM or 2000 RPM. The ECU interprets your speed and throttle position and cuts fuel injection. Granted, if you drop really low it will start injecting fuel again to avoid stalling, but at that point you should be either coming to a stop or you're not intending to stop and you need to go to a lower gear to quit lugging your engine. The vehicles momentum is turning the engine, and the compression of air in the cylinders (along with plenty of other forces) are creating friction and stopping power. This is also why engine braking is much more pronounced at higher RPMs. Here's another question along this line: Does this hold true in carbed motorcycles/cars as well? Does the pilot circuit still add fuel to the mix?
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Oct 2, 2007 23:27
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Z3n posted:Here's another question along this line: I actually don't know. I've only ever owned EFI cars, so I'm carb retarded. Someone else will need to answer that one.
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Oct 2, 2007 23:52
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How do I get dirt and grease and stuff off of aluminum rims, I've tried soap and water and windex and it's not taking it all off
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Oct 3, 2007 03:27
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Smoogle posted:How do I get dirt and grease and stuff off of aluminum rims, I've tried soap and water and windex and it's not taking it all off Simple Green and a stiff nylon brush?
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Oct 3, 2007 03:36
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I've been wondering, would anyone daily drive a spec Miata? Driving a race car around town seems pretty manly.
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Oct 3, 2007 10:21
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Oldsmobile posted:I've been wondering, would anyone daily drive a spec Miata? Driving a race car around town seems pretty manly. einTier drove his last NB Miata around with the Spec Miata suspension on it. It wasn't completely race-prepped, though.
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Oct 3, 2007 15:44
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when shopping for a used car, should I expect more maintenance costs with an older car even if the millage is the same as a newer model of that car? For example a 1990 with 90,000 miles as opposed to a 2000 with 90,000 miles?
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Oct 3, 2007 22:10
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kizzash posted:when shopping for a used car, should I expect more maintenance costs with an older car even if the millage is the same as a newer model of that car? For example a 1990 with 90,000 miles as opposed to a 2000 with 90,000 miles? As a rule of thumb, yes. Things will degrade over time assuming the vehicle hasn't been garaged/winterized/whatever for a long stretch of that time. But then you also have to factor in known mechanical issues for each vintage of vehicle, general build quality which may have gotten worse with newer models, and how the car was treated for those 90,000 miles and that can turn things on its head.
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Oct 3, 2007 22:14
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I have a 2000 Jetta GLS and I need to change the spark plugs. I open my car up and I'm befuddled as to where the hell the spark plugs are and google isn't being helpful on this topic. Can anyone help?
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Oct 3, 2007 22:29
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Are there any "eBay headers" that aren't complete trash? Some of them appear to have decent welding and good bends but Lord only knows if those pictures are accurate. The prices are tempting, but I'd rather not blow $80 on a paperweight. http://tinyurl.com/2qxkkt
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Oct 4, 2007 07:11
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deviant. posted:Are there any "eBay headers" that aren't complete trash? Some of them appear to have decent welding and good bends but Lord only knows if those pictures are accurate. The prices are tempting, but I'd rather not blow $80 on a paperweight. Depends on the header, but unless you have a log-style or catalyst-equipped manifold as well as supporting induction/exhaust modifications, a header won't do much. Some eBay headers are actually pretty good, SSAutoCrime's N/A engine headers aren't so bad, and some of the others are half okay.
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Oct 4, 2007 07:28
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Actually, it was my understanding that the stock exhaust manifold was one of the weak points of my car. I do have an intake and cat-back, so a header seemed like a nice way to round it out. If I can get out of it for less than $100 I think I'll be doing well. Thanks!
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Oct 4, 2007 08:09
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Is there any better way to locate lower-priced new cars, than to head to say autotrader and henpeck between all the listings trying to find something that might fit? It seems the prices of cars(in general) for Madison are a bit high. I'm the market for a brand new car, looking at a 2007/2008 Manual Honda Civic[EX Coupe probably] and would like to find the best market price available(in a 4-5 hour radius) but trying to locate dealerships through websites is a pain and they sometimes list more than what I queried.
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Oct 4, 2007 19:09
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Duxwig posted:Is there any better way to locate lower-priced new cars, than to head to say autotrader and henpeck between all the listings trying to find something that might fit? I'd get a list of Honda dealers and start emailing them through their website. Compile a list of quotes you get. Be specific with what you want (color, options, trim level, bosy style, etc). Then keep email communication up with all of them and push them to go lower. Once you've agreed upon a price that is when you go in to close the deal.
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Oct 4, 2007 19:24
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BabyJesus posted:I'd get a list of Honda dealers and start emailing them through their website. Compile a list of quotes you get. Be specific with what you want (color, options, trim level, bosy style, etc). Then keep email communication up with all of them and push them to go lower. Once you've agreed upon a price that is when you go in to close the deal. This is what my brother did when he bought his Civic Si. It works really, really well when you have multiple dealers to work with.
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Oct 4, 2007 20:43
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I've recently acquired a new car(G37! Not that it makes a difference here), and am wondering about The Club, or similar anti-theft devices. I've only been in this city about a year (sold my car before I moved, have been car-less from then until now), and it seems that everyone here uses them, as opposed to back home where they were rarely seen. Are they at all effective as a theft deterent? It seems to me that if someone is going to bother to steal your car, they'll have figured out how to get past one of these. Of course, I'm also not used to living in a city where people will smash your windows in to get at the shiny quarter you left behind in the ashtray, so what do I know?
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Oct 5, 2007 03:18
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Hey, AI, what's the difference between the 400cid SBC and the 350 blocks? Do they use the same engine mounts? Heads? Bellhousings? What (else) is the same and different (other than bore and stroke, obviously)?
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Oct 5, 2007 03:29
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ChloroformSeduction posted:I've recently acquired a new car(G37! Not that it makes a difference here), and am wondering about The Club, or similar anti-theft devices. I've only been in this city about a year (sold my car before I moved, have been car-less from then until now), and it seems that everyone here uses them, as opposed to back home where they were rarely seen. Are they at all effective as a theft deterent? It seems to me that if someone is going to bother to steal your car, they'll have figured out how to get past one of these. Though a determined thief with good skills, tools and some peace and quiet will be able to get past most anything, a steering wheel lock which cannot be disabled by lock picking, cutting the steering wheel or an electric drill, ought to be too much trouble for thieves. Of course a modern vehicle will have an electronic anti-theft device which is difficult to disable anyway if we're just talking about some small time druggie looking for a joy ride. The professionals will just take your car away on a flatbed and figure out a way to reprogram the anti-theft system. A steering wheel lock is a good idea for an older car that can be stolen with a screw driver and some hot wiring.
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Oct 5, 2007 18:21
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How do full-time AWD systems cope with the front-back wheel speed difference while turning? I have a Suzuki SX4, which is basically an FF with a transfer case up front and an electromechanical clutch between the rear driveline and the rear diff. The system does not engage the rear wheels except during hard acceleration or wheelspin at the front. When turning, I know that the rear wheels will be traveling at a different speed than the front, but the transfer case causes both outputs to travel the same speed. Off-road, or in low traction, this is not a problem, as the wheels just slip. On dry pavement, something within the AWD powertrain must slip. Which item is this? Just the clutch pack? Does the transfer case heat up (I think it's viscous coupling)? Would it be possible to replace or supplement the clutch pack with some other mechanical power divider that would not wear quite as much as a clutch pack? It's trivial to detect this special case and disengage appropriately, i.e.: we are turning x degrees, the rear wheels should be traveling y% faster/slower than the front, therefore [insert action that allows z% slippage before the rear wheels]. (P.S.: I code embedded systems all the time and would not have a problem building a new AWD controller. The existing clutch uses PWM to vary engagement of the rear wheels, so I would guess other variable engagement systems would be similarly easy to control. Also, I would probably add at least a 2 axis gyro G-sensor to assist with detecting when to predict traction movement deliver power) Edit: clarifications Tan Dumplord fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Oct 7, 2007 |
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Oct 5, 2007 19:34
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The car gene from my dad's side of the family finally hit me, and I've been looking for a reasonable car (price wise) to pick up some time next year when I can afford it. I'll admit it, I like hondas, so I'm a little biased, but how bad of an idea is it to get a stock prelude (looking at 2000s, 2001s) and start tuning from there? I've heard lots of mixed reviews on them, but most of it seems to boil down to "HONDA SUCKS" "NO YOU SUCK" etc. The main reasons I've been looking at them are looks, price, and the fact that there seems to be an abundance of tuning parts for them around my area and the cars seem to take to them pretty well. Thoughts? tl;dr : Honda prelude, is it worth it?
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Oct 6, 2007 05:56
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null0ne posted:tl;dr : Apparently the Prelude was available in 4WD. If they were ever sold in North America is another issue however. That being said my only problem with the prelude was the fact that it was FWD on most models.
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Oct 6, 2007 21:53
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McTinkerson posted:Apparently the Prelude was available in 4WD. If they were ever sold in North America is another issue however. 4WS  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Prelude#Third_generation_.281988-1991.29
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Oct 6, 2007 21:55
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Does anyone have any experience with putting a supercharger on an E46 BMW? Is there any reason this is a terrible idea? Which company builds the best/most reliable kit? What kind of extra wear is there on the engine?
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Oct 7, 2007 16:32
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Hey guys, my 328is is sounding like a sewing machine. I'm guessing its the valves that are ticking. I hope it's not the stupid VANOS problem, because I don't feel like spending a million dollars to replace it. I would do it myself if I had a garage  So, engine noise that sounds like a sewing machine = valves ticking or vanos? I've checked oil level and its between the marks. I'm thinking of pouring a can of seafoam in the crankcase and driving a couple miles then changing my oil. Forgot to say: At around 1100 RPM my car hesitates to decelerate. If I rev the engine past 2000 or so, when the RPMS come down it hesitates at around 1100 before going back down to 600-700 idle. Might this be related to vanos ? TAG BODY SPRAY fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Oct 7, 2007 |
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Oct 7, 2007 20:15
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null0ne posted:tl;dr : YES. Though the type SH has one of the most stolen engines by car model in the US IIRC. I had an older Prelude and I loved it to death. I currently have an Integra, which is very similar and I love it as well. If price is an issue, though, go with an Integra; they're about $2k less than a similar Prelude, but with subdued performance. Long story short, if I had the extra cash when I bought my car, I'd have gotten the Prelude. e: The 4WS (not 4WD) was only an option on the 3rd Gen models and they dumped it on the 4th and 5th generations. giancarlo fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Oct 8, 2007 |
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Oct 8, 2007 03:17
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OK. I admit it. I have no idea what a dry sump is. My car has a sump, and it is most definitely NOT dry, and I cannot see how a car can have a dry sump. What is it?
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Oct 8, 2007 13:48
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