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IOwnCalculus posted:From what I remember of air-cooled vee-dubs and Porsches, it's engine oil...and it's not always very reliable, heh. I god! I would never want to experience a failed heater core in one of those applications!
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Dec 11, 2007 02:18
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What does a typical ECU do when a sensor (MAF in this case) is unplugged? How long does it take for it to use default settings? The car in question is a 2001 Saturn l300 v6.
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Dec 11, 2007 03:19
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how would one get a 20$ out of a cd player in a car if its stuck?
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Dec 11, 2007 04:21
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The Gobbledygooker posted:how would one get a 20$ out of a cd player in a car if its stuck? ...  How deep is it in there? I'd fish around with some stiff wire. You may have to pull it apart completely.
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Dec 11, 2007 05:36
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jailbait#3 posted:What does a typical ECU do when a sensor (MAF in this case) is unplugged? How long does it take for it to use default settings? The car in question is a 2001 Saturn l300 v6. If the MAF is unplugged, the ECU will read off the backup MAP sensor (if you have one) or if not then it will read off the TPS sensor/IAT sensor and start guessworking what pressure is in the manifold. The thing is, if none of these are working properly the ECU cannot use "default settings" (fuel and ignition maps from the factory) correctly because these values are dependant on a combination of RPM and one of these sources. This will make it run horribly. EDIT: reading over your question again, you might be asking something a bit different. If the MAF is unplugged and then plugged back in while the engine was running the computer reads it as a random fault, logs it (you probably have a check engine light on right now, yes?) and depending on the length of time it was unplugged, may very well happily keep on reading MAF values. If it was unplugged then plugged back in while the car was off (or KOEO) the ECU didn't see a thing. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Dec 11, 2007 |
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Dec 11, 2007 06:27
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The Gobbledygooker posted:how would one get a 20$ out of a cd player in a car if its stuck? Dont even try messing around with a coathanger or something. Save yourself some time and bite the bullet... take it out and crack the case open. Might I ask why a 20 was in your CD-player in the first place?
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Dec 11, 2007 06:29
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thealphabetsez posted:stupid question: what is the heat source for an air-cooled automobile to provide head for the cabin air? In addition to what IOwnCalculus said, other methods have included using the exhaust gases or burning gasoline.
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Dec 11, 2007 06:33
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jailbait#3 posted:What does a typical ECU do when a sensor (MAF in this case) is unplugged? How long does it take for it to use default settings? The car in question is a 2001 Saturn l300 v6. It will run in open loop, you will have horrible fuel economy and possibly some drivability issues. It will err on the rich side, possibly causing your catalytic converter to overheat and stop working correctly. And if you unplug it with the key on engine off it will still throw a code.
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Dec 11, 2007 06:37
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Adiabatic posted:Dont even try messing around with a coathanger or something. Save yourself some time and bite the bullet... take it out and crack the case open. Yeah, if you can see the 20 you might try a tweezers or something to fish it out but don't go randomly jabbing poo poo into a CD slot or it'll likely never load a CD again.
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Dec 11, 2007 06:41
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Hey everyone. I've got a 2000 Taurus, pushing 90k miles. Recently the parking brake light has been coming on when I stop hard, and staying on for awhile. Now (past few days) it is on almost constantly, sometimes disappearing, but usually coming back when I make a full (even slow, gradual) stop. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? I notice no difference in braking quality, and no, Im not driving with the parking brake on.
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Dec 11, 2007 06:46
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Hay guyz, I need to change the trans fluid on my RSX, which requires lifting the car at all four corners. I don't own jackstands and am not 100% confident that the made in China stands I'm seeing at Sears, etc. will not somehow collapse and kill me. Any suggestions for where/what to buy?
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Dec 11, 2007 06:52
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I've just got some Craftsman 2.25 ton stands from Sears and they are just fine. Just always make sure that the car is stable on the jacks before you crawl under it, and don't ever rely on solely the jack itself.
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Dec 11, 2007 07:16
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Turkeybone posted:Hey everyone. I've got a 2000 Taurus, pushing 90k miles. Recently the parking brake light has been coming on when I stop hard, and staying on for awhile. Now (past few days) it is on almost constantly, sometimes disappearing, but usually coming back when I make a full (even slow, gradual) stop. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? I notice no difference in braking quality, and no, Im not driving with the parking brake on. How is your brake fluid? My 97 Taurus does this about once a year until I top off the reservoir with fresh fluid.
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Dec 11, 2007 07:38
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fag magnet posted:Hay guyz, If you don't have stands or a lift already, it isn't worth buying them just to change tranny fluid. Go to a shop with a lift or pit; my shop charges under $100 for manual fluid changes, and it's done before you can read the sports section. Anyway, if I know the RSX tranny design, you probably don't even need to lift it anyway.
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Dec 11, 2007 13:35
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thealphabetsez posted:stupid question: what is the heat source for an air-cooled automobile to provide heat for the cabin air? The VW Beetle sucks in hot air from a shroud round the exhaust (not exhaust itself as you'd die). I think the 2CV does the same.
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Dec 11, 2007 14:04
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mr.belowaverage posted:If you don't have stands or a lift already, it isn't worth buying them just to change tranny fluid. Go to a shop with a lift or pit; my shop charges under $100 for manual fluid changes, and it's done before you can read the sports section. i'm trying to do as much of the 3yr service as possible myself, and will need the jackstands to do some suspension work next year anyways. i'm probably also going to be changing the trans fluid every 10k miles or so from now on (if you were actually familiar with the rsx 6spd, you would know about the 1-2-3 gremlins). since it takes 20 minutes and 12$ worth of fluid once you do have the 3 tools you need, 100$ a pop seems excessive, when even with doing most of the service myself, the 3yr is probably going to cost 300 at the dealer.
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Dec 11, 2007 21:37
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Two stupid questions here: My Peugeot 306 could use a new stereo. It has one of those little levers next to the steering wheel for changing track/volume, if I buy a new stereo will those controls be able to connect to it somehow? My other half's '95 Skyline makes an awful whistling noise from the top of the driver's side window above about 65mph.. we think it's the window winder motor not closing it properly, since there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the seals. If we can get a new motor, is it a big job to replace?
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Dec 11, 2007 22:41
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Sweevo posted:The VW Beetle sucks in hot air from a shroud round the exhaust (not exhaust itself as you'd die). I think the 2CV does the same. and goes down those blasted heater channels 
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Dec 12, 2007 00:05
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I'm about to pick up a new car (Mazda 6 Petrol) in Australia and the recommended fuel is premium unleaded (95). My question is: Is this really necessary? Will it adversely affect my engine wear and tear, maintenance or performance if I use regular unleaded or even the E10 (unleaded with 10% ethanol) that you can get at some petrol stations?
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Dec 12, 2007 00:56
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Is there any real difference between the Jeep Compass and the Dodge Caliber? They look the same, and I'm pretty sure they are one the same platform - but one if, of course, more expensive the the other. I saw the Compass recently on the road, but I couldn't tell if it was sitting higher then the Dodge or not. I read somewhere that this is the first vehicle in a while that is not received the 'trail rated' badge, but it COULD happen - is this realistic, or just a marketing thing to sell them to hopeful folks? And, also, why is the price on the Jeep website about 2k more then all the review sites say the base price is? Its odd.
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Dec 12, 2007 02:02
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Dark Solux posted:It will run in open loop, you will have horrible fuel economy and possibly some drivability issues. It will err on the rich side, possibly causing your catalytic converter to overheat and stop working correctly. I'm wondering because I think the MAF may be bad (it's failed once already). I had hoped that an unplugged MAF would result in default settings. The bastard MAF is telling the ECM the car is lean, when in fact it is running extremely rich. You'd think that the O2 sensors would catch that...
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Dec 12, 2007 02:58
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There's a crack in my windshield, and it's getting bigger. I heard a nasty crack while driving home a few days ago, but didn't see anything and forgot about it. Then last night I saw a massive crack in the lower-right hand side of my windshield. I hoped I was just blind, so today before work I marked where the crack was with a sharpie, took a couple of pictures, and hoped for the best. On the way home, I noticed the crack had gotten bigger. I'd say it's about 8-10 inches long, extending from the bottom corner of the passenger's side, slowly working it's way up to the center. It gained about an inch over one day (not sure, I don't have a ruler and it was dark). I think it's in the middle layer, since I can't feel anything from the inside or outside. I can post pictures of the before if it would help. Is the car (2005 Civic) safe to drive? Is this the sort of thing warranties generally cover? Would my insurance cover this? How much do windshields generally cost? Beef Hardcheese fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Dec 12, 2007 |
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Dec 12, 2007 03:54
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Vidaeus posted:I'm about to pick up a new car (Mazda 6 Petrol) in Australia and the recommended fuel is premium unleaded (95). My question is: Is this really necessary? Will it adversely affect my engine wear and tear, maintenance or performance if I use regular unleaded or even the E10 (unleaded with 10% ethanol) that you can get at some petrol stations? Your car will run on pretty much anything. The thing is, running a lower octane rating will make your engine prone to knocking, which is really bad. Your car will recognize this and change its timing to something less aggressive to protect itself. While this means you won't damage your engine, it also means you will lose a lot of performance and fuel economy to the point that you will actually be spending more money in additional fuel usage than you will be saving in lower fuel costs. You will also run the risk of Mazda denying any warranty claims because you were running the recommended stuff. If the E10 is of an octane rating of 95 or higher, your engine will be fine. I know around here, 87 octane fuel is generally 100% gasoline while the 89 stuff is 10% ethanol. I'm not sure what the 91 stuff is.
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Dec 12, 2007 06:10
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jailbait#3 posted:I'm wondering because I think the MAF may be bad (it's failed once already). I had hoped that an unplugged MAF would result in default settings. The bastard MAF is telling the ECM the car is lean, when in fact it is running extremely rich. You'd think that the O2 sensors would catch that... The 02 sensor is the only way the computer knows if the car is running rich or lean. The MAF just measures intake air velocity and temperature (density). What car is it? If it's a toyota I can pull up the testing procedure (using a DMM) to see if its outputting false data. edit: duh its a saturn, sorry
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Dec 12, 2007 06:12
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  What car is this? These are from the same car. I'm thinking BMW, but any idea what one? It MAY be a convertible, but I'm not sure. Sorry for the quality, I'm trying to pull better caps, but that's the best I've been able to get so far.
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Dec 13, 2007 02:36
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Why does my brothers hyundai accent have a cutout that is lower then the redline? The redline is actually about 800 rpm higher then the cutout. Don't get it.
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Dec 13, 2007 02:38
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I lost both of my right side tires tonight to a pothole on Lower Wacker in Chicago. I'd just bought 'em, new all-seasons (Continental ContiExtremeContact). They had maybe 200 miles on them. They were also awesome, but that's another story. So, aside from being   I'm wondering what to do. Both Pep Boys and Tire Rack say that the tires I had are backordered (until February, according to Pep Boys). Do I put the two spiffy all-season tires on the front (moving the left rear to the right front) and put whatever Pep Boys/some other shop has on hand on the rear wheels? Buy two new (more expensive) similar grade tires and put them on the right and have a brand on each side? Something else? E: layout bort fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Dec 13, 2007 |
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Dec 13, 2007 03:58
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Krakkles posted:What car is this? These are from the same car. I'm thinking BMW, but any idea what one? Edit: Actually, if you can get a better shot further over to the right - if there's MPG under the tach, it might be an e46? Edit2: I'm retarded, the 90's would have the little display under/inside the speedo, so this has to be an e46 (not z4). krysmopompas fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Dec 13, 2007 |
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Dec 13, 2007 04:42
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krysmopompas posted:All the '90s (and early 2000s) BMWs shared that instrument cluster, so that doesn't help too much. If its a convertible, then it has to be an e36 or z3. It's definitely a 4 seater, so not a Z3/4. I'm assuming E46, but I'll keep trying to get a better shot.
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Dec 13, 2007 05:02
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By the time the e46 had rolled out, all their other models besides the z3 had funky gauges or large alphanumeric displays, so I don't think it could be much else since the z3 still used the 90's layout. I had to go out in the garage and check since I couldn't remember 
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Dec 13, 2007 05:11
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Krakkles posted:
E36 gauge. I can take a picture if you want to verify.
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Dec 13, 2007 05:36
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BraveUlysses posted:E36 gauge. I can take a picture if you want to verify. 
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Dec 13, 2007 06:15
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Well wait a second...  The first one is mine, 2nd one is an ebay e36 cluster. Like I said, I'm pretty drat sure it was shared between the z3 and 3 series, with the exception of the mpg bit.  e46 on ebay.
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Dec 13, 2007 07:07
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Those looks identical to the E34 and E32 clusters, and in the dark they look the same as an E38 cluster. Pretty much all 90s BMWs used an extremely similar cluster.
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Dec 13, 2007 07:25
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Guinness posted:Those looks identical to the E34 and E32 clusters, and in the dark they look the same as an E38 cluster. Pretty much all 90s BMWs used an extremely similar cluster.  I can't find a lit pic of an e34/e38 cluster, but it would would have in the lower center: code:code:
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Dec 13, 2007 07:41
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I love AI 
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Dec 13, 2007 07:58
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Hmm yeah, I guess you should have had me verify with a picture.
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Dec 13, 2007 17:43
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99 Chrysler 300M 138K miles on it. Just had to take it to the dealer for unrelated problems with water pump, temp gasket, timing belt etc.. Person mentioned something about a minor problem concerning a cord or something for my transmission assembly, which is causing my shifter to fight me a little when I shift gears. How much of a problem can this become? is it something I might be able to fix myself?
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Dec 14, 2007 02:36
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Adiabatic posted:Dont even try messing around with a coathanger or something. Save yourself some time and bite the bullet... take it out and crack the case open. uh..... I was messing around with a 20 the driver handed me to buy stuff when we arrived and I didn't think it would take it. 
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Dec 14, 2007 07:05
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I just ran Seafoam in my 03 WRX, and it smoked, idles better, etc. but now the CEL is on. Is this something worth going and having Autozone pull the odb2 code for or should I just reset it using the battery trick and then worry about it if it comes on later?
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Dec 15, 2007 22:42
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