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Atticus_1354 posted:Is there a particular hydraulic fluid to get for a hydraulic steering setup? You need to look in your owner's manual or online to find the recommended fluid for your particular model of car. You could also check the cap on the steering fluid reservoir or for a sticker under the hood. Some cars use "power steering fluid" and some use automatic transmission fluid. They aren't really interchangeable, so take the time to find out which is right for you.
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Feb 6, 2008 04:32
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What would you guys pay for this m3 with 175000 miles and a blown head gasket?   
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Feb 8, 2008 01:42
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Hey guys - I'm going to be replacing the emergency brake cable for a Dodge Grand Caravan. I've done e-brakes numerous times on my small standard VW, the cable's right there hanging off the base of the handle going through the floor to the rear wheels. However on the van the e-brake seems to be in the dashboard / on the side towards the floor. Do I open up the dash? anyone have experience with this? I know there's got to be a panel that comes off or something - I don't actually think the whole dash needs to come off. I know this is fairly simple but my lack of experience with automatic soccer mom cars is leaving me a bit confused.
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Feb 8, 2008 22:37
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How are the following pronounced: - Integra. in-TEH-gra? IN-tuh-gra? - Getrag. get-rag? geh-trahg?
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Feb 8, 2008 22:55
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kimbo305 posted:How are the following pronounced: Me: in-teg-ra' geh-trag
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Feb 8, 2008 23:19
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meltie posted:Me: Same here.
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Feb 8, 2008 23:58
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MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Feb 9, 2008 01:35
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Slopehead posted:Hey guys I have an extremely stupid question. I'm in the market for a (new to me) vehicle. I've been wanting a Honda Civic hatchback, not particularly a CRX or anything but a hatchback nonetheless. I struck upon an oddity in the local craigslists today. A 1984 Civic CRX with only 114,000 miles. I emailed the person advertising, she claims that it is entirely stock, has no mechanical problems, and although she has no service records she has provided me with the name and number of her mechanic. It's still a 24 year old vehicle. I don't think I'd pay $1000, much less $2500 for it.
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Feb 9, 2008 01:41
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Yeah, that's what I figured. My money is probably better spent on a newer civic hatch . I am looking at you 2000 in silver. Also my insurance would drop by about $30 a month which isn't anything to shake a stick at. Edit: The seller just called me. She sounded incredibly ancient and very pissed at the world. She informed me that she had sold the vehicle and hung up. Glad she didn't get my money. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Feb 9, 2008 |
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Feb 9, 2008 01:55
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Slopehead posted:Yeah, that's what I figured. My money is probably better spent on a newer civic hatch . I am looking at you 2000 in silver. Eh, it was a non-Si. That means it probably had a carbureted D15 *shudder* It was also just a few miles from me! 
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Feb 9, 2008 03:48
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MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Feb 9, 2008 18:08
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What do you guys recommend as a relatively cheap (300$ or so) portable GPS for a car? Brand/Model/etc... Or is 300 too low/high? I have no idea really.
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Feb 10, 2008 03:53
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Don Cojones posted:What do you guys recommend as a relatively cheap (300$ or so) portable GPS for a car? Brand/Model/etc... Or is 300 too low/high? I have no idea really. Garmin Nuvi 250
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Feb 10, 2008 04:05
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murphle posted:You need to look in your owner's manual or online to find the recommended fluid for your particular model of car. I can't do that because it is an after market hydraulic steering setup.
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Feb 10, 2008 04:56
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What are the differences between AWD and 4WD?
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Feb 10, 2008 05:49
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Vidaeus posted:What are the differences between AWD and 4WD? AWD has a differential that lets the front and rear tires slip on cornering and such, but still have torque spread out between front and rear. 4x4 has the front and rear locked through direct gears & chains, which is why you should never be in 4x4 on pavement because something will have to give. In AWD's case, it's the extra differential that gives, in 4x4's case it's either a tire or something mechanical that breaks. 4x4 will give better traction offroad, whereas AWD gives you better traction on road. MrZig fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Feb 10, 2008 |
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Feb 10, 2008 07:31
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Don Cojones posted:What do you guys recommend as a relatively cheap (300$ or so) portable GPS for a car? Brand/Model/etc... Or is 300 too low/high? I have no idea really. I recently purchased a Mio C220 for $115 and its amazing for the price. As a nice bonus there is lots of resources out there for unlocking it to update the maps and software and it supports SD cards so with a large enough card you can store detailed maps for all of north america. Its also nice and small and unobtrusive, so it sits in a corner to the left of my gauges and not in my viewing area. More info: http://www.mio-tech.com/gps-navigation-products-c220-overview.htm
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Feb 10, 2008 10:19
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I'm attempting (quite poorly, mind you) to part out my old Miata. So I have two questions, one is technique based and the other is tool based. I tried to get off my driver's side door, but the pin wouldn't come out. So after a long bout with it and my friend getting tired from holding the door, I decided to cut my losses and just bent and broke the thing off. The passenger side door is still attached to the car, but I'd like some pointers as to how to do it. Should I try to get out the pin first and then pull off the hinges? I tried to get the driver's seat out and due to the combination of the spaciousness of the Miata and my limited tool collection, I only felt like I had succeeded in getting the bolts off (read: I'm extremely loving sore). I'm venturing a guess that hand tools won't do for bolts that have been torqued to hell and back, so I'm looking to invest in a cheap electric impact gun. Anybody have experiences with cheap guns and what I should look for and look out for? Phone fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Feb 10, 2008 |
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Feb 10, 2008 10:43
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I'm looking to switch auto insurance companies. Can anybody recommend any for the state of Massachusetts? I'm paying out of my rear end right now ($410/month) because I got into 2 accidents when I first started driving, but my driving record has been pretty flawless the past 2 almost 3 years. I'm turning 21 in May if that makes any difference.
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Feb 10, 2008 19:54
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Phone posted:I'm attempting (quite poorly, mind you) to part out my old Miata. So I have two questions, one is technique based and the other is tool based. Why waste the time with electric...? Get a decent air compressor and consider it an investment. 3/8" air ratchet is what you're looking for, I've got an ingersoll rand that I love. http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-109XP-8-inch-Ratchet-Wrench/dp/B00004XOSY I know tools are expensive but it really is nice to have a wide assortment of good tools. Much less frustration. The pin in the door is flared, it comes out from the top. Hit it from the bottom with a punch or something - make sure the door hinge isn't putting pressure on it (read: not fully open). Mr.Bucket posted:What would you guys pay for this m3 with 175000 miles and a blown head gasket? Atticus_1354 posted:I can't do that because it is an after market hydraulic steering setup. What do you think conventional powersteering is? Unless you're talking a full hydro setup, which I doubt. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Feb 10, 2008 |
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Feb 10, 2008 20:12
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As much as I'd love to spend the money on an air compressor and air tools, poor college kid who's hours are being halfed at work.
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Feb 10, 2008 20:31
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Akaikami posted:I'm looking to switch auto insurance companies. Can anybody recommend any for the state of Massachusetts? I'm paying out of my rear end right now ($410/month) because I got into 2 accidents when I first started driving, but my driving record has been pretty flawless the past 2 almost 3 years. I'm turning 21 in May if that makes any difference. There are so many variables in determaining what you will pay that the only recommendation that is worth giving is "call around and see what you are quoted."
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Feb 10, 2008 20:44
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Phone posted:As much as I'd love to spend the money on an air compressor and air tools, poor college kid who's hours are being halfed at work. I understand  .
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Feb 10, 2008 21:16
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Atticus_1354 posted:I can't do that because it is an after market hydraulic steering setup. In that case, more information would obviously be useful, no? What kind of vehicle? Where did the steering setup come from, is it off another vehicle in the same model range, or is it some sort of third-party hydraulic assist setup, perhaps on a 4x4? Any vendor information on the pump, reservoir, hydraulic ram, steering box etc? With the info given so far, we can tell you that it uses fluid, probably power steering fluid, but that's not exactly a certainty.
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Feb 10, 2008 23:06
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Atticus_1354 posted:I can't do that because it is an after market hydraulic steering setup. I'd call the MFG of the system and ask, or see if it's in the instructions/on their web site. If they don't have anything specified I'd run either plane jane power steering fluid if it's a stock type system or Hy-Gard/J20C spec fluid if it's a "real" hydraulic system. I've run J20C in power steering systems as well as an automatic transmission or two, I would not reccomend it for winter use as the viscosity is higher, but it kicks rear end for drag racing type applications.
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Feb 10, 2008 23:08
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Uthor posted:There are so many variables in determaining what you will pay that the only recommendation that is worth giving is "call around and see what you are quoted." Right but where do I find places to be quoted? Geico, Allstate, etc do not service Massachusetts.
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Feb 10, 2008 23:52
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2002 saturn SL here. Its got about 115K miles on it and its starting to burn oil a bit. It runs great other then that but if I seafoam it will it stop the oil from burning? Also since I am coming up on 120, should I change the timing belt? The mechanic says no and drive it till it dies but we would like to keep this car for awhile. Its a SOHC so what do you think the cost will be to have it done? deviant. posted:No. Seafoam only removes deposits. You could try a "high mileage" oil since they're supposed to condition seals in older engines. stgdz fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Feb 11, 2008 |
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Feb 11, 2008 04:26
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stgdz posted:2002 saturn SL1 here. Its got about 115K miles on it and its starting to burn oil a bit. It runs great other then that but if I seafoam it will it stop the oil from burning? quote:Also since I am coming up on 120, should I change the timing belt? The mechanic says no and drive it till it dies but we would like to keep this car for awhile. Its a SOHC so what do you think the cost will be to have it done? It will be pricey (I think the belt on my car ran 3-400 due to all the labor), but if the chain (Saturns of that era used timing chains instead of belts) snaps you will be left without a running car at the least. I don't know if the 1.9 is an interference engine, but if it is you will smash up your pistons and valves. I guess it depends on how long you plan on keeping it. It's only six years old, and if it's still in good shape the chain replacement is cheap insurance.
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Feb 11, 2008 04:42
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deviant. posted:No. Seafoam only removes deposits. You could try a "high mileage" oil since they're supposed to condition seals in older engines. There's a TSB out for the oil burning but frankly I doubt it does much. If you want it, PM me and I'll email it. And it has a timing chain that lasts the lifetime of the engine. Non interference as well. So don't worry about that.
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Feb 11, 2008 04:53
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My wife and I have been leaving the dakota outside at night also, its been freaking cold here but I put a oil pan heater on it but I didn't get it towards the deep sump end. Anyways with the cold weather the engine starts and makes a grinding sound, similar to the way the old dodge gear starters were but its much higher pitch. It goes away as the car warms up this morning but this morning my lovely wife took my advice of "before you start the car pump the gas" as "Pump the gas while turning the key." The truck just revved to hell this morning, while making that whine sound, and now I worry about damage to the engine. So what do you guys think the whining sound is?
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Feb 11, 2008 14:21
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What is a "# shot of nos?" I've seen anywhere from 50 to 200 for #. I assume it has to do with quantity or duration, but was always afraid to step into the bowels of ricer culture to find out.
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Feb 12, 2008 02:25
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kimbo305 posted:What is a "# shot of nos?" I've seen anywhere from 50 to 200 for #. I assume it has to do with quantity or duration, but was always afraid to step into the bowels of ricer culture to find out. It's supposed to be a rough estimate on the amount of torque you will be gaining (remember, hp is an equation of torque and RPM thus the amount of nitrous oxide and the amount of HP isn't proportional... possibly peak hp but that would be an even rougher estimate) by spraying the nitrous oxide (which contains nitrogen, an inert gas, for safer combustion, and oxygen, which lets you add more fuel with a safe mixture) into the air intake. It's proportional (on the same vehicle at least) to the size of the hole on the nozzle. Most people in the ricer culture misrepresent it as the diehard amount of horsepower they're gaining.
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Feb 12, 2008 03:42
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Adiabatic posted:It's supposed to be a rough estimate on the amount of torque you will be gaining (remember, hp is an equation of torque and RPM thus the amount of nitrous oxide and the amount of HP isn't proportional... possibly peak hp but that would be an even rougher estimate) by spraying the nitrous oxide (which contains nitrogen, an inert gas, for safer combustion, and oxygen, which lets you add more fuel with a safe mixture) into the air intake. It's proportional (on the same vehicle at least) to the size of the hole on the nozzle. You've got it backwards, the rating is the HP that the nitrous oxide adds. The amount of raw torque that the nitrous adds decreases as the RPM goes up, but the HP remains "roughly" constant. You have so much fuel/oxidiser mix you're adding besides what is otherwise going into the engine, the peak cylinder pressures go up (more torque) but as you divide this same amount of "extra" fuel and oxidiser across more engine cycles (higher RPM) the peak cylinder pressure steadily decreases. If you are looking at a kit, keep in mind that NX and plausibly some others rate to the wheels roughly while NOS and probably the preponderance rate to the flywheel.
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Feb 12, 2008 04:03
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Mister Roboteaux posted:You've got it backwards, the rating is the HP that the nitrous oxide adds. The amount of raw torque that the nitrous adds decreases as the RPM goes up, but the HP remains "roughly" constant. You have so much fuel/oxidiser mix you're adding besides what is otherwise going into the engine, the peak cylinder pressures go up (more torque) but as you divide this same amount of "extra" fuel and oxidiser across more engine cycles (higher RPM) the peak cylinder pressure steadily decreases. If you are looking at a kit, keep in mind that NX and plausibly some others rate to the wheels roughly while NOS and probably the preponderance rate to the flywheel. I would never touch the stuff, as a performance mod, even if it is cheap and effective. Was simply curious. So the # shot determines how much NOS you mix in; is it up to you to decide how long to mix? So you know, you don't have danger to the manifold?
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Feb 12, 2008 04:09
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Mister Roboteaux posted:You've got it backwards, the rating is the HP that the nitrous oxide adds. The amount of raw torque that the nitrous adds decreases as the RPM goes up, but the HP remains "roughly" constant. You have so much fuel/oxidiser mix you're adding besides what is otherwise going into the engine, the peak cylinder pressures go up (more torque) but as you divide this same amount of "extra" fuel and oxidiser across more engine cycles (higher RPM) the peak cylinder pressure steadily decreases. If you are looking at a kit, keep in mind that NX and plausibly some others rate to the wheels roughly while NOS and probably the preponderance rate to the flywheel. Damnit damnit damnit I always get that loving backwards. [removes foot from mouth]
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Feb 12, 2008 04:29
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A friend of mine managed to get a silver 98 Civic DX hatchback in great condition for $200 loving dollars. Son of a bitch always finds incredible deals. Anyway, the engine, body, interior, etc are all perfect...but the auto transmission is almost dead. I remember a while back someone linked to an awesome site that had used and rebuilt Honda engines and transmissions for pretty cheap. Can someone help me out? He's a drat good mechanic (dude changed the timing belt on his Tracker in the parking lot in about 30 minutes), so he's not worried about having it installed or anything. He just needs to get it for a decent price. I'm gonna help him with it so I can learn a little 
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Feb 12, 2008 04:37
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That's quite a deal your friend got, Jose. I'd go ahead and check out car-part.com; they've got some good options in the sub-$200 range. Otherwise, Civics of that era aren't too hard to come by at the local boneyard, so it might be worth a shot to call around locally.
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Feb 12, 2008 06:09
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nitsuga posted:That's quite a deal your friend got, Jose. I'd go ahead and check out car-part.com; they've got some good options in the sub-$200 range. Otherwise, Civics of that era aren't too hard to come by at the local boneyard, so it might be worth a shot to call around locally. Anyway, thanks for the linkage and I'll be sure to tell him about it.
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Feb 12, 2008 06:44
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kimbo305 posted:I would never touch the stuff, as a performance mod, even if it is cheap and effective. Was simply curious. So the # shot determines how much NOS you mix in; is it up to you to decide how long to mix? So you know, you don't have danger to the manifold? Less F&F man. Seriously. It's perfectly safe to use as long as you don't get stupid with it. Basicly you have a nitrous line and a fuel line that are fed from the fuel system. These go into a nozzle or nozzles that are after some solenoid valves. When you open the noids the nitrous is allowed to flow, and goes up to the nozzle where there are two orfices; one controls fuel flow one controls nitrous oxide flow. This is then sucked into the engine, and burned for more power. By controlling the solenoids you turn the nitrous on or off. This is a "wet" shot, a "dry" shot works differently. You inject the nitrous, but have a box that increases fuel pressure or you increase the duty cycle of the fuel injectors. Nitrous Oxide will not normally trash an intake, an exception to this is back firing which can be related to nitrous oxide, but not a properly set up system. A guy who was a student at the same school I was at blew the intake manifold up in his Mark 7 because he was doing a burn out with nitrous on, and stalled the car then tried to re-start it. Big hood bulge, cone filter 100 foot down the track etc. etc. This is majorly the minority of nitrous installs if done on a properly running engine. There are also "safe" limits for certain engines too, eg most people will run about 100-150hp of nitrous on a stockish 350 Chevy or 5L Mustang as a "safe" amount. IMO the biggest single hazzard to an engine not built for nitrous is probably ring butting if everything else is set up right. The heat causes the piston rings to expand, and if they butt up against one another they will tear the crown off a piston. The bigger concern IMO comes when you start talking powertrain parts, if you have a marginal transmission, axle or transaxle they will let you know about it by burning grinding cracking or shattering parts especially with tires that get traction.
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Feb 12, 2008 11:29
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I have a 92 Totoya Tercel and ever since I've had the car it idles around 1500rpm. Is this normal for the car, and if not, what would the most likely culprit be? Also, occasionally when I'm driving the rpm will shoot up a couple hundred rpm or so and then it will come back down after a couple of seconds. It rarely happens, but when it does it doesn't seem to occur for any reason that I can notice.
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Feb 13, 2008 06:45
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