|
Sweevo posted:
I think that the blower kit is under rated unless they are talking 200hp to the wheels. Looking at it in the crudest way possible, even at say 5 PSI you're talking about roughly 1.33*170hp=226.1hp. Even assuming 200hp flywheel that's about 300 CFM. If you look at the blower map, that's less thank 10,000 RPM on the M62 but more close to 14,000 on the M45. With its lower 10,000 RPM speed the M62 has a delta T of a bit under 90 degrees, but the M45 at 14,000 RPM has a delta T of about 105 degrees. This means that the M62 will put out colder air and make more power. Also, if you look at the M45's HP use map at 5 PSI, it takes about 18hp to turn at 14,000 RPM; the M62 even though it's bigger takes about 13hhp to turn at 10,000 RPM, so it actually takes less power to turn it even though it is a physically larger blower. Whoever made the design choice made the right one.
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2008 18:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 00:32 |
|
|
Armyman25 posted:Would adding an limited-slip differential to my 98 Grand Marquis improve traction in winter weather? Yes, but it can only make the most of the grip you have. Get dedicated snow and ice tires first (if you haven't already). If that's still not enough then you can talk about an LSD. I'm kinda surprised that it doesn't have a Posi-Trac rear end on it. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2008 18:48
|
|
|
I recently bought a 1999 volvo c70 T5. Last night I went to use it and it was totally dead, couldn't even turn a light on. Now I am guessing the battery is flat (was fine when i pulled up two days ago) so I am planning on jump starting it. Is there anything I can do to determain the cause of the problem ? I'm no car expert, but I narrowed it down to 3 things :- a,crap battery b,crap alternator c,even crappier electrical problem. I was wondering what steps I should do, if any to diagnose this? I'm gonna borrow a voltmeter from work to assist, but other than making sure it is generating the correct voltage/current I am not really sure what I'm actually looking for. Normally I would just get a garage to look at it but im finacially crippled at the moment due to buying said car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2008 19:41
|
|
|
destructo posted:
I can't answer your question, but that ALMOST looks cool. It looks more metro instead of fully homosexual.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2008 19:53
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:I can't answer your question, but that ALMOST looks cool. It looks more metro instead of fully homosexual. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2008 19:54
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:The MazdaSpeed Protege engine has never been considered any good. Great turbo, but the unmodified protege engine its attached to is worthless. Let me preface this by saying that I'm not trying to argue with you, I'm just curious. In what way is the MSP engine worthless? Are you talking about purely from a performance standpoint? I suppose I'd agree somewhat there, as I've never tried to do much with mine other than a few simple run-of-the-mill mods and somewhat increased boost on the stock turbo. If you're talking about reliability, though, then I'd have to disagree or consider myself lucky, because I've not had a single notable engine malfunction in the 170k miles of my MSP (other than it being picky about spark plugs). This is also with the boost being at about 9psi for the last 80k miles. The only thing that I've found mechanically lovely (slight change of subject here) on my MSP is the LSD, which, after some research, seems to self-destruct for everyone between 40k and 100k (if youre lucky).
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2008 20:08
|
|
|
Would it be completely inappropriate to request or start an Autocross megathread?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2008 03:08
|
|
|
On my EFI 280z I can adjust the air/fuel ratio with the AFM. I want to get the ratio a letter better tuned than just using the plug color. Is there a cheaper solution than a wideband?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2008 04:43
|
|
|
SkunkTeeth posted:On my EFI 280z I can adjust the air/fuel ratio with the AFM. I want to get the ratio a letter better tuned than just using the plug color. Is there a cheaper solution than a wideband? If you have a data logging setup, you cna use a JAW kit. It would set you back about $100-120 with the sensor. http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2008 05:50
|
|
|
Mister Roboteaux posted:If you have a data logging setup, you cna use a JAW kit. It would set you back about $100-120 with the sensor. http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm Looks like I can use it without datalogging, which I dont care about 
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2008 06:26
|
|
|
multiprotocol posted:Would it be completely inappropriate to request or start an Autocross megathread? What? No, do it  My stupid question: 1998 Toyota Camry, my mother-in-law's car. The spring that pops the fuel door open when you pull the cable broke off the plastic tab that holds it to the door, so now refueling requires two people (one to pull the cable, one to open the door). We're going to try epoxying it back in place as a temporary solution, but I fear it will either not work or will work poorly. If I end up having to replace these parts, how the hell do I get the door off of the car? I can't seem to get at the back of the fender there at all. I presume I'll need to go to a Toyota dealer to get the part.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2008 18:42
|
|
|
If the battery light on my 1994 Camry is turning on occasionally is it worth replacing the battery, or should I just go straight to the auto electrician and get them to look at the alternator?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2008 03:49
|
|
|
Zero Gravitas posted:If the battery light on my 1994 Camry is turning on occasionally is it worth replacing the battery, or should I just go straight to the auto electrician and get them to look at the alternator? Probably best to get the alternator bench tested (take it off and take it to autozone or something). That light means the voltage is dropping when the engine is running and the alternator isn't putting out enough.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2008 05:45
|
|
|
Dark Solux posted:Probably best to get the alternator bench tested (take it off and take it to autozone or something). Cool. Are alternators expensive? (I'm looking to sell this car, so I am fixing everything that would decrease the sell price).
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2008 05:57
|
|
|
Zero Gravitas posted:Cool. Are alternators expensive? (I'm looking to sell this car, so I am fixing everything that would decrease the sell price). Auto parts stores usually only sell remanufactured units. They are generally around $150.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2008 09:06
|
|
|
Does anybody have any solid numbers on the price of getting a car from Japan to British Columbia Canada? Everywhere I look seems to have completely different prices ranging from a few hundred to a few grand.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2008 09:14
|
|
|
I'm going to be changing the oil in my somewhat recently aquired '67 Impala w/350 smallblock (made in '73) soon. Oh yeah, and it's got a 4bbl Edelbrock on it. The owner had the oil done when I bought it so I haven't had to do it yet. I'm planning on putting in Mobile 1 10W-30, but then I found an old 5W-30 in the trunk so I figured I'd check and be sure. I'm in SoCal so no cold weather issues. I'm also assuming I should just go with regular as opposed to synthetic due to the old engine, but I'm a learning newbie and am quite open to wisdom from you guys. As a side note, I've been filling her with premium fuel but gently caress me that hurts on a 24 gallon tank. Thankfully it's not a daily driver. Does the compression ratio or whatever (once again, I'm learning) care about that, or would regular kill it? It's really only ~$5 difference I know, but I'm curious. Thanks
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Feb 27, 2008 |
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2008 21:51
|
|
|
Hey guys, My 1996 328is has had a CEL on for a while. I didn't reset it because I thought it was the stupid Secondary Air Pump poo poo, but Noooo it turns I have an EXTRA code. The Peake fault code reader is indicating that I have error 'dE', Time to closed loop temperature too long. After reading bimmer forums and stuff around, its almost 100% that I have a thermostat stuck open. Now, my question is what harm could come to my car if I don't fix this soon? Also, can I just empty the radiator or do I absolutely haaaaave to take the engine coolant drain plug out? TAG BODY SPRAY fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 28, 2008 |
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2008 02:12
|
|
|
OxMan posted:I don't know what to do with my current car. It's a 96 Sentra GXE, auto, power steering/windows/locks 149k miles. I've decided I'm gonna sell it as is. Given that it'll need a registration renewal and it didn't pass emissions (piece of crap never did), given its problems how much could I get for something like this. Would I be reaching with 1500?
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2008 02:57
|
|
) How much could I even get for something like this, fixed and not fixed?
|
So I'm new car shopping on-line. I think I've got a pretty good handle on everything, except one detail: I'm getting car info from dealers, but instead of presenting the interior color in some human readable format, they're sending some sort of color code. Specifically, it's for a Toyota Camry Solara, and I've seen color codes LC00 and LC10. Googling around lists these as "Ivory," which I recognize, and "Gray," which could be two different colors. Is there some place I can go to match the color codes to the names that I see in the brochures?
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2008 05:31
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:I'm going to be changing the oil in my somewhat recently aquired '67 Impala w/350 smallblock (made in '73) soon. Oh yeah, and it's got a 4bbl Edelbrock on it. The owner had the oil done when I bought it so I haven't had to do it yet. Really, the answer to both questions depends on the specifics of the engine. If that old 350 has a lot of miles on it then I wouldn't bother with synthetic. However, if it's a fresh build, synthetic is fine. Those old SBCs will run on drat near any oil - 5w30, 10w30, 20w50, though I would stay away from 20w50 unless you have oil pressure or leakage issues. The compression ratio will depend on your exact heads and piston combination. If it's low enough then 87 will be fine; if it's high (keep in mind that 'high' on an old SBC is over about 9.5:1) you'll want at least 91.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2008 05:48
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Really, the answer to both questions depends on the specifics of the engine. If that old 350 has a lot of miles on it then I wouldn't bother with synthetic. However, if it's a fresh build, synthetic is fine. Those old SBCs will run on drat near any oil - 5w30, 10w30, 20w50, though I would stay away from 20w50 unless you have oil pressure or leakage issues. That's a 73, unless it's been er "tweaked" internally my bet's on piss gas. 5W30 will get you the best mpg probably, depending on climate (if it doesn't get cold there) I'd probably do HD30 in the summer and 10W30 in the winter. I like 15-40 Delo myself, and find that Castrol is on the thin side for my 4.3L V6 (makes the puff of smoke at startup worse) so that's something to keep in mind too. I usually just feed it what's cheap as it's probably leagues ahead of what they used back then as a whole.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2008 07:02
|
|
|
Here's kind of a crazy question, but it deals with automotive supplies. I need to clean and polish some plastic, mostly acrylic and lexan. I have the Novus three-step package, but I need some polishing cloths. I like the idea of disposable, and have found rolls of disposable polishing cloths at Griots and summit for $15. Are these safe to use on plastic? Or, could I get like a 20-30 pack of reuseable cleaning cloths instead. Could someone recommend a specific type that will work on plastics without inducing extra scratches? I'm thinking something like diapers, or flannel cloth would work. Novus cautions against using any rayon or polyester, so that pretty much eliminates the idea of using microfiber. Here is the novus website: http://www.novuspolish.com/ Now, they do make their own cloths, called polish mates, but they are expensive. Two came with the polishing kit, but I've already used them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2008 14:29
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Really, the answer to both questions depends on the specifics of the engine. If that old 350 has a lot of miles on it then I wouldn't bother with synthetic. However, if it's a fresh build, synthetic is fine. Those old SBCs will run on drat near any oil - 5w30, 10w30, 20w50, though I would stay away from 20w50 unless you have oil pressure or leakage issues. It's not a fresh build, nor has it been tweaked with internally as far as I'm aware. The car is pretty stock aside from the Edelbrock carb and Flowmaster headers. I'll stick with regular 5W-30 I suppose. How hard is it to figure out my piston combination/etc? Is that the kind of thing that would have to be done in a shop? Thanks both of you for the help.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 00:03
|
|
|
91 Lincoln Mark VII Check engine light blinks steadily under heavy acceleration, occasionally under light acceleration. Blinking supposedly means the fault corrected itself, but I'm not convinced. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 03:55
|
|
|
So I finally figured out that I had a bad spark plug wire, been running like that for at least 2-3 weeks. How could that kind of long-term misfiring affect the cylinder/rest of the car? After I figured out the problem, I put a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank to help clean out the injectors. I'm wondering if there are other things I should be concerned about.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 08:31
|
|
|
Retarded insurance advice needed: I got into a collision Friday, 11 Jan, his fault. His insurance people called me on Monday and offered me 500$ for an injury claim, I told him that I'd have to think about it... and that was it. Am I still able to hit up the injury claim? I did get x-rays and I have to pay those deductibles, but it's far less than the 500$ they offered so many moons ago.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 09:45
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:91 Lincoln Mark VII Generally means heavy misfiring. Not a good thing to be driving around on. aksuur posted:So I finally figured out that I had a bad spark plug wire, been running like that for at least 2-3 weeks. How could that kind of long-term misfiring affect the cylinder/rest of the car? After I figured out the problem, I put a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank to help clean out the injectors. I'm wondering if there are other things I should be concerned about. Running like that would be dumping unburnt fuel down the exhaust, which is quite bad for the catalytic converter. Cause it to overheat and melt the substrate and all that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 13:37
|
|
|
Dark Solux posted:Running like that would be dumping unburnt fuel down the exhaust, which is quite bad for the catalytic converter. Cause it to overheat and melt the substrate and all that. Is that what happened to the CTS-V that tore out all the platinum from its cats?
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 19:13
|
|
|
Creative Bicycle posted:Let me preface this by saying that I'm not trying to argue with you, I'm just curious. Modability. TheSwift.CC had one that was setup for autocross, he can relate how the engine wasn't great, the turbo kit on it wasn't great, but the rest was.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2008 20:12
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Is that what happened to the CTS-V that tore out all the platinum from its cats? No, he had crossed two plug wires and continued to run the drat engine despite the terrible noises it was making.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 00:02
|
|
|
deviant. posted:No, he had crossed two plug wires and continued to run the drat engine despite the terrible noises it was making. I can't imagine what that'd do to the firing patterns. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 01:44
|
|
|
Phone posted:Retarded insurance advice needed: I would get a lawyer. $500 is ridiculous, especially in the USA where medical costs are insane. I was offered $8,000 for my claim and told them I'd think about it and then phoned my lawyer. It's based on pain and suffering, medical/recovery costs, and the impact your injury has on your ability to enjoy life and work. With the state that my back is in, you can be drat sure that I won't settle for $8,000 considering how bad its been.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 02:58
|
|
|
any good data on how many people in the driving population of your-country-of-choice can drive stick? My guess for the US would be 1/8 to 1/4 of all drivers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 04:34
|
|
|
deviant. posted:No, he had crossed two plug wires and continued to run the drat engine despite the terrible noises it was making. Crossed two wires on a CTS-V? They're six loving inches long! How the hell do you do that?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 05:54
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:any good data on how many people in the driving population of your-country-of-choice can drive stick? My guess for the US would be 1/8 to 1/4 of all drivers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 06:15
|
|
|
Is it possible to buy/insure a car without a license? I'm 22 and would like to have a car to practice driving in until I get my license. I wouldn't be driving it alone ever, of course, but that doesn't really matter if it's impossible to even own/insure a car without having a license. I'm in Oregon, if that matters.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 07:28
|
|
|
Purchase: Possibly? Insure: Probably not.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 07:30
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Crossed two wires on a CTS-V? They're six loving inches long! How the hell do you do that? I think he upgraded the coil/ignition module or something. So he crossed them, just not physically.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 07:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 00:32 |
|
|
Xenoid posted:I would get a lawyer. $500 is ridiculous, especially in the USA where medical costs are insane. I didn't miss any days off of work and all I had was some back pain for about 5 days and burns from the airbag. I haven't claimed anything, but I wouldn't mind some "free cash" being sent my way.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2008 10:11
|
|