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How big of an air compressor do I need to run a basic impact wrench and air ratchet and how much do I have to spend?
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 02:38 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 03:28 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Anyone want to recommend me a wideband air/fuel ratio monitor? Stick with the standard, the LM-1. If you need a permanently mounted one instead of handheld, the LC-1 is it.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 03:05 |
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miklm posted:I've been shopping for an impact for months now, and finally bought a Farmhand brand from Tractor Supply. Tractor Supply is quickly becoming one of my favorite stores, decent selection, and small enough they arent crowded as crap. Best of all the employees at mine actually seem to know the store like the back of their hand and are more than willing to help you find stuff, or cut rope and chain.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 03:36 |
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chem42 posted:How big of an air compressor do I need to run a basic impact wrench and air ratchet and how much do I have to spend? It depends if you want one new or used. To run those two things you don't need a very big tank unless you're going to be working quickly. Things like air sprayers or die grinders are what eat up a ton of air. If you don't need a portable one, and its for home use I'd just get a harbor freight stand up compressor and put it in a corner. My second hand (from my next door neighbor) craftsman has sprung a leak somewhere. I will have to fix that but otherwise has run without any big problems. I paid around $100 for it. Its a 20Gallon and I use a die grinder with ti but it will use up air very quickly to the point that after 5 minutes or so of grinding I need to let the tank fill up. If I had it to do over again I would wait for one of HF's big sales and put a stand up 30+ gallon unit on one of their $10 mover's dollys and put it in the corner. Then just buy a very long air hose. One tool that does suck, is the lovely impact gun I bought in the air tool kit at pep boys. (And probably most in air tool kits) That thing sucks rear end. I am thinking about buying the step up model from HF and trying that out. At least at HF if I don't like it I can take it back. BTW: Quick tool tip, if you buy an air ratchet, at some point it will just open and vent air and not turn. Spray WD40 through it. Like magic it will work every time, good as new. Ive used the same $10 (from that same lovely pep boys kit) for probably 3 years now. Its seized up like this due to poo poo in it probably 3 or 4 times especially if I let it sit for a while. Every time that fixes it perfect. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 5, 2008 |
# ? Mar 5, 2008 03:50 |
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RealKyleH posted:BTW: Quick tool tip, if you buy an air ratchet, at some point it will just open and vent air and not turn. Spray WD40 through it. Like magic it will work every time, good as new. Ive used the same $10 (from that same lovely pep boys kit) for probably 3 years now. Its seized up like this due to poo poo in it probably 3 or 4 times especially if I let it sit for a while. Every time that fixes it perfect. Well you're actually supposed to lube it with air tool oil before every use, but I guess if you're going 3 years strong then it might not be a huge problem. Unless of course it's applying much less torque than when new, which it might be.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 04:32 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Anyone want to recommend me a wideband air/fuel ratio monitor? LC-1 from innovate, and whatever gauge you want, or an o-meter. http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm DIY WB... very good from what I hear.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 04:38 |
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Contraband posted:Well you're actually supposed to lube it with air tool oil before every use, but I guess if you're going 3 years strong then it might not be a huge problem. Unless of course it's applying much less torque than when new, which it might be. I do. If not air tool oil than motor oil or trans fluid. It sometimes goes months between uses and I am guessing the cheap internals probably corrode. Not to mention its been in the dirt occasionally.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 06:52 |
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Portability is key, as it'll float between vehicles. After posting that I started wandering around and I'm considering the Innovate LM-1 basic kit. It's on ebay for 299 shipped. EDIT: The next morning, I realize that there was another page after what I'd previously read! Thanks guys. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Mar 5, 2008 |
# ? Mar 5, 2008 08:25 |
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happyscrappyheropup posted:I have one of those Craftsman aluminum jacks and it does suck. Amen to that! However it's totally overkill that I have my Mini....
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 16:36 |
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Hit an Apex posted:
leica posted:Thank god I never have to go to a shop for tire rotation ever again.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 16:56 |
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Mad Dragon posted:How do you balance them? MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Oct 4, 2010 |
# ? Mar 5, 2008 17:06 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Portability is key, as it'll float between vehicles. After posting that I started wandering around and I'm considering the Innovate LM-1 basic kit. It's on ebay for 299 shipped. The LM-1 is a good kit, but the same functionality can be recreated for less. The LC1 is $130, and a gauge is pretty cheap. Whichever way you go, Innovate is a great company, and makes good products.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 17:11 |
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leica posted:
Do you have a link to the Snap-On torque stick? I bought that exact impact gun a couple of weeks ago to get out seats in my Miata.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 17:59 |
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Phone posted:Do you have a link to the Snap-On torque stick? I bought that exact impact gun a couple of weeks ago to get out seats in my Miata. Seconded, a torque stick would let me use my shiny new Harbor Freight impact gun a lot more often.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:07 |
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Mad Dragon posted:How do you balance them? HF tire balancer http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47211 Phone posted:Do you have a link to the Snap-On torque stick? I bought that exact impact gun a couple of weeks ago to get out seats in my Miata. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=77357&group_ID=2219&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:09 |
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Maxwedge posted:
Not likely to happen, but why take the chance by having that thing rolling around in your trunk?
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:28 |
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leica posted:
Cool, I just bout an 80lb and a 100lb. Bastards don't make a 90
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:31 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Cool, I just bout an 80lb and a 100lb. Harbor Freight sells a set of 6 for $30, but not separately. 55 to 100#'s and also 3/8ths drive unfortunately. Not sure if there's a 90 in there. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96399
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:39 |
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Edit: Can anyone explain how those things work? ^^^ I keep a 7 gallon aluminum tank with the same hose setup for random tire inflations. Easy to refill and has enough air for 4 tires. Bought it all from HF many years ago and it wasn't more than $50.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:40 |
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leica posted:Harbor Freight sells a set of 6 for $30, but not separately. 55 to 100#'s and also 3/8ths drive unfortunately. Not sure if there's a 90 in there. 1/2" drive version Harbor Freight is good enough for me
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:43 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:1/2" drive version 60 bucks though. That set was at the store here and I almost bought it, but thought better of it since I knew I could get a 80# Snap-on separately. All you really need is one anyway, unless you have a bunch of different cars and trucks (like yourself).
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:47 |
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tonedef131 posted:I really don't recommend keeping that in passenger compartment or trunk of a car. If that top or regulator ever gives out or breaks off it will basically turn into a rocket and immedietly fog every window in the car. So even if it doesn't shoot around/through the car and hit you, you won't be able to see where you are going to stop. On top of all of that if you can't get out of the car you could suffocate. I keep it on the floor of the back seat, so it doesn't roll around at all. I'm not really worried to much about it. Mabey in a side-impact car accident it might be enough to break the regulator. There is also a safety 'button' on the valve that will pop if it gets to hot/too much pressure. But I've read that you can bury this in the sand in the dessert and you wouldn't have problems (unless the tank was overfilled). And in a fire it would help if it burst. Powertank posted:Q: “How safe is a tank of compressed CO2 in a vehicle?” Nitrox posted:Edit: Can anyone explain how those things work? ^^^ I don't know if your talking about air or Co2 but this is different than a normal air tank. The Co2 is under high pressure (1200-1500psi) The tank is tested to 3000 psi iirc. So the Co2 is in liquid form and has a lot more energy than compressed air. So a 10lb tank of Co2 can air up about 20-25 normal car tires.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 18:59 |
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Maxwedge posted:I don't know if your talking about air or Co2 but this is different than a normal air tank. The Co2 is under high pressure (1200-1500psi) The tank is tested to 3000 psi iirc. So the Co2 is in liquid form and has a lot more energy than compressed air. So a 10lb tank of Co2 can air up about 20-25 normal car tires. sharkytm posted:The LM-1 is a good kit, but the same functionality can be recreated for less. The LC1 is $130, and a gauge is pretty cheap. Whichever way you go, Innovate is a great company, and makes good products.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 19:38 |
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leica posted:60 bucks though. That set was at the store here and I almost bought it, but thought better of it since I knew I could get a 80# Snap-on separately. Yup, the truck, Miata, and Volvo, plus whatever the hell else I happen to be working on. These would also be great for jobs that require lugnut-like torque (like the shocks on said truck).
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 20:26 |
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Air tools promote limp wrists.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 21:13 |
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What the hell was that?
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 21:23 |
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leica posted:
I got one of these last summer, and after spending 3 months working on my car, I never used it once. It was just too big for most stuff, Wheels would be a real good use, but whatelse have you used it for? I ended up trading mine in(about the same cost), and getting the 1/4" cordless one, and a flexi-extension thing (to get it in odd places), and 3/8" adapter I've only used it a few times, but its worked great. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94371 I looked, but I couldn't find the other items on their website.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 21:32 |
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hippynerd posted:I got one of these last summer, and after spending 3 months working on my car, I never used it once. It was just too big for most stuff, Wheels would be a real good use, but whatelse have you used it for? It works wonders on seat bolts. Also stubborn suspension bits, basically anywhere it will fit where you need the muscle. Or you could just call oxbrain for his manly wrists. :bigtran:
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 21:36 |
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Hypnolobster posted:What the hell was that? It is a lead impact hammer. It's due for a recast.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 21:51 |
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Why lead, and not steel? It's so confusing.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 22:17 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Why lead, and not steel? Because lead is softer than steel, so you can transmit a large force to the object without denting it. Last time I've seen someone use one of those was these oldschool "quick change" wheels on a Shelby Cobra. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Mar 5, 2008 |
# ? Mar 5, 2008 22:27 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Why lead, and not steel? quote:Because lead is softer than steel, so you can transmit a large force to the object without denting it. I use a HF 5# plastic sledge filled with buckshot, about the same results I would imagine. It might even be less damaging than a lead hammer.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 22:33 |
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leica posted:I use a HF 5# plastic sledge filled with buckshot, about the same results I would imagine. It might even be less damaging than a lead hammer. It probably is, since while the lead probably won't dent I bet it does scuff and scratch like a bastard. I really need to pick up a plastic dead-blow from Harbor Freight one of these days.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 22:45 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Why lead, and not steel? It's like the difference between punching and pushing. A steel hammer will spend more energy bouncing off the tool, and the sharper impact will be more likely to break the tool. The lead deforms and transfers more force, while being gentler on the other tool. Also, steel can chip on impact, and these dust sized shards invariably wind up in your eyeball. If you ever have to hit a steel tool with a steel hammer, wrap one in a rag. edit: Plastic deadblows work, but I can't stand how they feel in the hand. Also, they don't work as well striking upwards. oxbrain fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Mar 5, 2008 |
# ? Mar 5, 2008 22:48 |
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I was thinking it was the same as a deadblow hammer, but I figured it might have some special purpose.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 22:48 |
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oxbrain posted:Also, they don't work as well striking upwards. Ahhh, good point. I never tried the deadblow in an upwards fashion.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 23:10 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:1/2" drive version Thanks. There goes yet another small portion of my paycheck. My luck the local HF won't have any in stock; they're terrible about having inventory here. Now that I'm buying a proper tool box, I have to populate it with something... $119 for the 3-piece combo at the local Sears.
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 23:25 |
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miklm posted:Thanks. There goes yet another small portion of my paycheck. My luck the local HF won't have any in stock; they're terrible about having inventory here. Oooh, I have that but in red and minus a few of the drawers in the middle. Nice set The plastic tool tray, as I discovered while in the long slow process of finally organizing my tools now that I own a house, is phenomenal for electrical tools and crap. I have an old truck that often requires some reworking in the wiring harness so I've got it loaded up with a ratcheting crimper, automatic stripper, a test light, and a huge assortment of wire and crimps. The only wiring-related tools I don't have in it at the moment are my 120V detector (which I'm pretty sure is broken anyway thanks to it lying to me about an outlet I was working on) and a multimeter (not enough room).
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# ? Mar 5, 2008 23:56 |
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Nitrox posted:I understand that you have a co2, I'm just stating what I have an air tank with hose and regulator, that serves the same function, only cheaper. It holds enough air to play with pressure at the track and cost nothing to refill. http://www.xenocron.com/catalog/wideband-permanent-install-c-25_44.html $199, and you can get it for a little less on honda-tech. The prices have moved a little from when I bought mine a year ago, i guess. I got mine for $149 with the sensor. The CO2 tank is about as safe as anything, so long as you unhook the hose and regulator. I'd keep it in the trunk, and lashed down. I've carried my 80CF Argon tank in my car... never had a bit of trouble.
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# ? Mar 6, 2008 00:06 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 03:28 |
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One of these, in 1/2" and 9/16", is the single greatest wrench ever. I have a Craftsman one, but they don't show it on their site. They probably discontinued it, as it's not gimmicky.
EvilDonald fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Mar 6, 2008 |
# ? Mar 6, 2008 00:58 |