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I just noticed a 1" rip in my S2000's vinyl soft top. Of course S2Ki has 100 different threads with 100 different ways to fix it, ranging from electrical tape to buying a hard top.  Any suggestions?
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Apr 2, 2008 05:00
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Delivery McGee posted:Mounting points for a roof rack/cargo box/bike rack/ski holder. They've got a whole modular system going on. Because it's Porsche official Tequipment stuff, you have to order it directly from Porsche or someone that can source original Porsche parts, like Pelican Parts. 
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Apr 2, 2008 17:37
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A completely retarded conversation came up between me and some roommates. The question boils down to having two cars with the rear bumpers chained to each other (facing opposite directions). They're both exactly the same except: Car 1 weighs 700 pounds more than Car 2. Car 2 makes 20ft-lbs of additional torque over Car 1. Which car will win the pull contest? The exact numbers itself aren't so important as the question of "Which is more important: torque or traction?" If this is really vague and dumb sounding, it's because it is.
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Apr 3, 2008 07:15
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:A completely retarded conversation came up between me and some roommates. The question boils down to having two cars with the rear bumpers chained to each other (facing opposite directions). They're both exactly the same except: Assuming nothing breaks, then the car with more torque only needs to cause the other car's tires to lose grip and start sliding. Think of those strongman contests -- a single man (1 ft-lb or so) can pull a train car (0 torque). The problem with your question is that if the cars' torques are close, then the tug of war won't get resolved quickly enough, and both engines should stall out from insufficient rolling movement.
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Apr 3, 2008 07:24
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I'm debating whether to throw away 500 of my dollars on a project. Hoping to get some opinions before Friday, when it moves. http://woodstock.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-under-5K-1985-Mercedes-Benz-190E-W0QQAdIdZ44091442 I have some mechanical ability, but not much in diagnosing valve-trains or the like. I have another daily driver, so I'm not relying on this for anything. Is it worth it?
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Apr 3, 2008 14:28
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kimbo305 posted:The problem with your question is that if the cars' torques are close, then the tug of war won't get resolved quickly enough, and both engines should stall out from insufficient rolling movement. Assuming the drivers know how to slip a clutch, how would that cause engines to stall? It certainly wouldn't stall an automatic. Also, I would think the tug-of-war would depend on what the actual torque values are... the ratio of 20 ft/lbs to 40 ft/lbs is a lot different than 980 ft/lbs to 1000 ft/lbs.
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Apr 3, 2008 14:41
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Here's a question, how will a car's behavior be affected by having a larger front track than rear track, and vise versa?
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Apr 3, 2008 15:57
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Dave Inc. posted:Here's a question, how will a car's behavior be affected by having a larger front track than rear track, and vise versa? I would imagine that a car with a wider front track would oversteer wildly while a wider rear track would make it more prone to understeer. Note that more understeer may be desirable in a high horsepower, rear or mid engined car like the 911.
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Apr 3, 2008 18:11
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Endor posted:Assuming the drivers know how to slip a clutch, how would that cause engines to stall? It certainly wouldn't stall an automatic. There are a lot of videos of this sort of thing on youtube, with pickup trucks. Quite a few of them end up with somebody snapping a driveshaft, and there's always a lot of tirespin. Just search "[any two pickup makers] tug of war" without the quotes. Here's one particularly suited to the question: F-350 with bigass diesel vs. Dodge half-ton with 360-cid gas, the latter with 400 gallons of water in the back.It's a surprisingly even match -- the Ford spins all four wheels, the Dodge just digs in and doesn't do much of anything. http://youtube.com/watch?v=zM0bb3cObgc
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Apr 3, 2008 18:13
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Endor posted:Assuming the drivers know how to slip a clutch, how would that cause engines to stall? It certainly wouldn't stall an automatic. See you're falling into the same problem -- if you slip both clutches, you're throwing peak engine torque values out the window. A Z06 with its clutch slipped could deliver any amount of torque, depending on slipping. But more to the point, whatever steady state torque is delivered (through the partly depressed clutch), that's the torque for that car. And the 2 cars' torques will oppose each other, so the net torque is always the difference. So if nothing breaks, 1000 - 980 is the same as 40 - 20.
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Apr 3, 2008 18:30
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Delivery McGee posted:There are a lot of videos of this sort of thing on youtube, with pickup trucks. Quite a few of them end up with somebody snapping a driveshaft, and there's always a lot of tirespin. Just search "[any two pickup makers] tug of war" without the quotes. This is pretty interesting. What are the torque values for each of those trucks? I also wonder if the winning truck having two extra wheels and being on dirt counted towards its success. Also, for the sake of argument, let's say one car in my question makes 100ft-lbs and the other makes 120.
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Apr 3, 2008 20:00
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Two stupid questions here: 1) I just got new pads on my Scion tC, had the rotors sanded at the time of the install. Brakes work great but scream like crazy during light braking. How do I fix this? 2) I recently saw a semi (sadly I don't know truck models that well, and my phone cam failed me) that was converted into a daily driver (cabin of what looked like an F-350 installed where the trailer usually attaches). It accelerated (from a red light) as fast as all the cars around it, so I'm guessing that it had the engine or at least the gears changed from the original set up. Does anyone know anything about such conversions? I've wanted to drive something like that since I was a kid, but I never knew that anyone actually made anything like that.
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Apr 3, 2008 21:43
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oneoldman posted:Two stupid questions here: You probably saw an International CXT.  Ashton Kutcher drives one, so you're in good company. 
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Apr 3, 2008 22:01
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99 3.1 Monte Carlo checking in here. A couple of days ago my car misfired going up a steep incline (think Catskill Mountains/ Appalachian hills here) and the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. At first it flashed, but almost immediately the misfire "corrected" itself and the blinking stopped and the light just went steady. Since then the car has driven well but the light has stayed on. I went to an Advanced Auto Parts and had it diagnosed as a "Cylinder 5 misfire". The plugs and wires are both new (installed back in September or so) but the coils are original on the car. I just want to know if I'm doing any kind of damage driving around with the light on. I plan on taking it apart this weekend when I have time and checking the #5 plug.
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Apr 4, 2008 02:02
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mr.belowaverage posted:I'm debating whether to throw away 500 of my dollars on a project. Hoping to get some opinions before Friday, when it moves. I offered him $325 and I'm one of his top offers. There's a chance I may get this thing. Would it be worth fighting for? Any idea how hard/expensive a valve train rebuild is on one of these? edit: nevermind, some scrap dealer outbid me and now it's being crushed instead of restored. 
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Apr 4, 2008 04:23
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Anybody want to give me a ball park on what it would cost to replace a water pump on 94' Acura Legend. Also would this be a relatively easy fix (I prefer to do my own work when possible), or is it relatively involved. Reason I'm asking is because I'm planning on taking a look at one tomorrow that is for sale in my area. They are asking $3500 for it. Assuming everything checks out (besides the pump of course) would $3K be a fair offer, or would that be ripping myself off/them off. Car prices seem completely hosed up right now as far as what people are asking, and what you get. Some more info Acura Legend, 5sp, 162,000 miles, power everything, moonroof, paint looks good in the photos
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Apr 4, 2008 06:49
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:This is pretty interesting. What are the torque values for each of those trucks? I also wonder if the winning truck having two extra wheels and being on dirt counted towards its success. I would hypothesize that the car with more torque would win if it could get traction. Unless I'm missing something, they would be moving the same weight. A 2700 pound car pulling a 2,000 pound car is moving 4,700 pounds, and vice versa. It would be interesting to test this out.
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Apr 4, 2008 19:17
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DELETED posted:I would hypothesize that the car with more torque would win if it could get traction. Unless I'm missing something, they would be moving the same weight. A 2700 pound car pulling a 2,000 pound car is moving 4,700 pounds, and vice versa. It would be interesting to test this out. I was gonna post the same thing, but then I realized that the heavy car will have more traction (same everything=same tires=same friction coefficient x more weight). So, the "stronger" car has more available torque, but the heavier car will be able to use more torque. I guess it all depends on how good the tires are.
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Apr 4, 2008 19:30
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A few questions regarding a car I'm considering buying: I live in CA, as does the current owner, but it's registered out of state (Idaho I think). I think he said it's been sitting for nine months. I think CA has penalties after having an out of state car in the state for more than 20 days? It's currently registered, just not in CA. It's not running, he pulled out the cam and then lost motivation and funding, so it's been sitting apart in his driveway. Anyone have a good idea on how easy it'd be to register once I (eventually) get it back together? Or is it going to be a paperwork and fees nightmare? Anyone know what cam specs would be good for a built 351C (BOSS heads, built lower end, high compression, I think he said 11:1?) with headers, holley 700 carb, and MSD? Anyone in the Santa Rosa area who has a knack for 70s Fords?  If I do pull the trigger on this, it'd be as a learning project (I took autoshop in HS but want more hands on experience) for my friend and me. We can probably figure out how everything goes together with a book and some time, but someone who knows the process can't hurt 
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Apr 5, 2008 06:53
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Yes, CA probably would have penalties for that, but that shouldn't affect you as a new owner. You really should contact the CA DMV on this, but you can basically resiter a car as non-op and pay like $20/year and don't nee dto hold insurance on it (obviously, can't go on the street). Issues you may need to resolve: If its a 1976+ car, forget it if its modded. You will fail SMOG and all thats tuff. You'll likely need to take it in to CHP or DMV to get the VIN read. You might have to ahve it towed there., but they might not make you do this until your transfer it from non-op. A really anal inspoector might check your engine numbers and if they don't match the body, that could be fun. My brother bough a 173 240z that had been sitting since the early 80s, i don't think they paid any fees on it and it wasn't a real issue. Only had to have it inspected at CHP to verify the VIN because it was non-op so long. This was a CA car that had always been in CA, so the idaho thing might screw it up.
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Apr 5, 2008 07:05
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It's a '70, thank god. I wouldn't even consider an older car that I have to smog. Such a nightmare. I'll call the DMV next week to see what the procedure is for non-op from out of state.
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Apr 5, 2008 07:21
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I went with Raluek today (Nocal -> Los Gatos )Raluek posted:(Idaho I think). quote:11:1? a cyberpunk goose fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Apr 5, 2008 |
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Apr 5, 2008 07:26
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Got a Dakota truck here with the 4.7 V-8. Its difficult to start in the morning. Takes quite a bit of turns to get it started or I can turn it over once or twice stop then turn the key again and it fires up. Not really certain what is causing it.
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Apr 6, 2008 03:40
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I just bought a 93 Mazda MS-8 and noticed that it was leaking a bit of oil. Checked the dipstick and it was about 1cm above the top line. I know too much oil is very bad for the engine, but how much is too much, and could this be the cause of my leak? Or do I have problems elsewhere? The oil was apparently changed about 2000km ago so I think it's been like this for a while. It seems to drive ok other than a few rattles when turning it on from cold. There's also a bit of a burning smell (perhaps burning oil? I don't know) after turning it off. NIGARS fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Apr 6, 2008 |
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Apr 6, 2008 04:53
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Would a motorcycle jack rated to 1500lbs be able to lift my Mazda safely? I'm getting a deal ($50) on a great motorcycle jack for an upcoming awesome old bike project and it would be nice to be able to use it for my car as well since its got a better maximum lift height than my floor jack.
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Apr 6, 2008 04:56
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I recently got a bit of body damage and want to replace the bumper, but don't feel like having an auto-body place rape me for it. I figured I could get a replacement on ebay unpainted, but I wasn't sure how much paint I would end up using myself afterwards. I found a site that sells pint and quart aerosol cans, do you guys happen to know which I would need?
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Apr 6, 2008 17:55
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Help me AI! I found a broken starion, and I have the money to buy it. Its an 86, no historic/collectable value really. He told me it had a little rod knock, but when we started it up, it made very loud crunching noised (like a car being crushed). We checked the compression, and it has comression on all 4 cyls. We think its just the crank/bearings. I have about 1/2 hour till I have to call him, and I think im going to buy it. What in the hell is wrong with me, trying to buy a seriously busted ride? I cant even check anything out, since the motor doesnt really run, I dont need help fixing the car... I think I have helpf for that, however there is a more serious issue, what the hell is wrong with me ? is there maybe a self help group or anything that might help aleviate my symptons?
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Apr 6, 2008 17:59
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I have a dumb question regarding FWD and RWD cars. From my lurking in AI i noticed some people complaining about FWD not being able to put down the power to the wheels, and I saw a link to Top Gear were the guy complains about torque steer and all that jazz. Now why is it that RWD can put more power to the ground rather than FWD. I thought the main problem would be with traction and wouldn't FWD be enough for that since the engine is on top of the wheels? Is the difference because of the way the transmission is positioned? I'm thinking that would be the only reason. TIA
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Apr 6, 2008 18:00
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Metratron posted:I have a dumb question regarding FWD and RWD cars. From my lurking in AI i noticed some people complaining about FWD not being able to put down the power to the wheels, and I saw a link to Top Gear were the guy complains about torque steer and all that jazz. Now why is it that RWD can put more power to the ground rather than FWD. I thought the main problem would be with traction and wouldn't FWD be enough for that since the engine is on top of the wheels? Is the difference because of the way the transmission is positioned? I'm thinking that would be the only reason. It gets "squat," which shifts weight to the rear wheels. The front wheels get light. Even more power and the front wheels can even lift.
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Apr 6, 2008 18:06
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Metratron posted:I have a dumb question regarding FWD and RWD cars. From my lurking in AI i noticed some people complaining about FWD not being able to put down the power to the wheels, and I saw a link to Top Gear were the guy complains about torque steer and all that jazz. Now why is it that RWD can put more power to the ground rather than FWD. I thought the main problem would be with traction and wouldn't FWD be enough for that since the engine is on top of the wheels? Is the difference because of the way the transmission is positioned? I'm thinking that would be the only reason. In addition to squat mentioned above, you also have the problem of accelerating while turning. Your tires only have so much grip and if you are taking up a bunch of it while turning, you can put down significantly less power to accelerate before the wheels spin. With RWD, the turning and accelerating are on two different sets of wheels.
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Apr 6, 2008 18:49
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CanOfMDAmp posted:I recently got a bit of body damage and want to replace the bumper, but don't feel like having an auto-body place rape me for it. I figured I could get a replacement on ebay unpainted, but I wasn't sure how much paint I would end up using myself afterwards. I found a site that sells pint and quart aerosol cans, do you guys happen to know which I would need? Can you find a painted replacement? Some shops offer that; I found painted replacement fenders for my car.
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Apr 6, 2008 20:44
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define: WOT?
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Apr 6, 2008 22:12
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blambert posted:define: WOT? wide open throttle. When the throttle is maximally physically open.
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Apr 6, 2008 22:27
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I've noticed recently that my throttle opens and closes more easily when the car is off. I assume this is due to air pressure on the throttle plate?
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Apr 6, 2008 23:32
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deviant. posted:Can you find a painted replacement? Some shops offer that; I found painted replacement fenders for my car. It's a situation of $3-400 or $150 and a few hours of my own time. I'm kinda cheap, so I would rather do it myself and save a few bucks.
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Apr 7, 2008 00:57
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My dad is letting me borrow his car when I move to a different state. Since the title will still be his name, as it's his car, do we need to worry about getting registered in the other state?
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Apr 7, 2008 02:35
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PUSSY BARON posted:My dad is letting me borrow his car when I move to a different state. Since the title will still be his name, as it's his car, do we need to worry about getting registered in the other state? Yeah, usually. Here in CA, if the car's in the state for more than 20 days you have to register it.
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Apr 7, 2008 02:47
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deviant. posted:I've noticed recently that my throttle opens and closes more easily when the car is off. I assume this is due to air pressure on the throttle plate? No. You have cruise control?
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Apr 7, 2008 03:00
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The car I mentioned before was torn apart supposedly to replace the cam because he was starting to hear lifter tick. Is it normal for performance engines to eat cams? The current owner's reasoning was that only the outer layer (microns thick) is hardened, and eventually it just wears down. Is it normal for cams to wear out like that? I've just never heard of one "going bad" from normal use like that before, though I've never owned a high compression, high output engine. Does it indicate other problems?
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Apr 7, 2008 03:12
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I was pulling up my windows after parking, and I heard a strange pop coming from the back driver's side window. The window then didn't move, although I heard a sort of clicking sound as if the motor were turning, so I don't think it's that the motor itself is broken. I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu, and try as I may, I couldn't find anywhere on the internet that gave decent instructions on how to open the door panel to get to the mechanism. I'd rather not take it into a repair shop for a multitude of reasons, but the window isn't fully closed, and so when it rains, water will of course get in. So I basically HAVE to take it to a repair shop, and I generally hate all car repairmen. What kind of prices should I expect for this kind of repair? I'm just a poor graduate student, this sucks. 
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Apr 7, 2008 05:25
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