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Try a glass shop for plexi or lexan. I think lexan scratches easier. They'll cut it to whatever sizes you need and pre-drill as well. I paid around $5 for a square foot.
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Apr 11, 2008 11:59
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| # ? May 8, 2024 16:25 |
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If you laminate something in a hot laminator like this: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=92499 http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=93110 And then were to cut it, would the laminate peel off? I want to make coupons/fliers to include with the items I sell that are 1/4 sheets of paper and laminate them so they look semi professional. I can buy both those for $22 but don't want to waste my money if they don't work.
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Apr 12, 2008 21:49
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RealKyleH posted:If you laminate something in a hot laminator like this: In my experience laminations work OK as long as you do not cut to close to the stuff inside. But if you are going to be bending it, or getting it wet all bets are off. Not that this may be what you are looking for but if you are looking for just a durable piece of paper you might consider tear-free paper. You can print on it and what not, snd it is essentially waterproof and very durable. I just did a quick google, and could not find it. When I bought it to print things for my boat, I got it at a Xerox store.
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Apr 12, 2008 22:44
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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No I just need to laminate it, stick it in the box/envelope, and have them look at it and hope they don't just throw it out and return to my place of business on the internet to use it. I am not sure what you mean cut to close to the stuff inside though. I will be cutting the excess edges off and cutting them into 4 rectangles.
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Apr 12, 2008 22:54
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RealKyleH posted:No I just need to laminate it, stick it in the box/envelope, and have them look at it and hope they don't just throw it out and return to my place of business on the internet to use it. I am not sure what you mean cut to close to the stuff inside though. I will be cutting the excess edges off and cutting them into 4 rectangles. What I mean by cutting too close is make sure there is a space around the card or paper inside, for the front and back of the lamination sheets to stick. No that this has anything to do with your original question, but have you thought about a refrigerator magnet instead of a laminated card? I know that around our house we check the refrigerator for business card we have stuck there. We liked the first few we got from companies so much, that we bought some sticky magnets that are designed to make cards into refrigerator magnets. Again not related to your original question at all, so feel free to ignore it.
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Apr 13, 2008 08:22
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RealKyleH posted:I am not sure what you mean cut to close to the stuff inside though. I will be cutting the excess edges off and cutting them into 4 rectangles.
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Apr 13, 2008 13:40
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:You have to leave a border of plastic around the paper to keep it stuck. So you'd have to cut them first, then trim the laminate (but not all the way to the paper) after it's done. Thanks, thats just the specific answer I was looking for.
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Apr 13, 2008 14:14
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http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/ ...has a few great tutorials for free. Also the home-journal section has some interesting articles. I thought some people might be interested.
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Apr 14, 2008 00:25
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Does anyone have experience with container planting? I'm just starting out as a grower, and I just want to make sure I'm not killing my plants. I have peppermint, thyme, rosemary, spicy globe oregano, basil, roma tomato, aloe vera, English lavender, and an unknown blackberry cultivar. How often should I fertilize? Are the fertilizer stakes enough? I have a tomato-specific stake, and a general plant stake (for the rest of them). Do I need to fertilize the herbs or aloe? Should I quarantine the blackberry until I'm sure it isn't infected with anything? Should I water the tomato at the same time everyday, religiously? And, Florida's having a cold snap, lows are expected to get into the 30s, should I bring any or all of my plants inside? Are these questions worthy of their own thread? I'm sure I'll have more later. :/
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Apr 14, 2008 03:12
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*edit: nevermind, I'm good. 
Pavlichenko fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Apr 15, 2008 |
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Apr 15, 2008 12:42
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Hey everyone... Standard air handler inside with heat pump outside for both heating and cooling. Handler also has aux electric heat. Will get model numbers asap. The problem is that the blower constantly runs. First instinct was a bad thermostat so that was replaced. Did not correct the problem. I disconnected the green wire from the thermostat hoping that it would stop the blower, it did not. The blower continuously runs whether the tstat is requesting it or not. Interestingly enough, the blower will stop occasionally, but only when it's supposed to. If the tstat holds the blower on it will always come on/stay on as long as needed, but will often continually run when not needed. My thought would be either the blower relay is sticking, or the anticipator is bad (which I thought was in thermostat?) I suppose it's better to have a blower running when it isn't supposed to as opposed to having the blower not run when it is supposed to, but I can see the difference in the electric bill for sure. All other functions work properly. Heat via heat pump, heat via heat pump and aux, and cool. The thermostat is absolutely installed correctly. Any ideas?
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Apr 15, 2008 19:27
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SynMoo posted:
If you disconnect the thermostat all together, does it still run? You could have a shorted wire. Seems doubtful, but worth a check. Do you have access to the relay at all? If so, you can measure the coil-side to see if it's powered when it's running and not supposed to. If you don't have power on the coil and the fan is running, the relay contacts are probably shot.
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Apr 15, 2008 20:36
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NickNails posted:If you disconnect the thermostat all together, does it still run? You could have a shorted wire. Seems doubtful, but worth a check. Do you have access to the relay at all? If so, you can measure the coil-side to see if it's powered when it's running and not supposed to. If you don't have power on the coil and the fan is running, the relay contacts are probably shot. If I disconnect the thermostat (which is easy, just pops off the wall with the contact plate still on the wall) the blower continues to run. I'm not sure if I can get to the relay. Pulling off the service panel reveals a control board where all of the wires seem to run and obviously the blower motor. There are more than two wires running to the blower motor, but they're all of heavy gauge. I'm not sure if the relay is on the blower, on that control board or somewhere else. If it's on the control board, I'm not sure which it would be. Nothing has been moved nor has there been any construction or anything of that nature so I doubt I've suddenly developed a shorted wire especially so when considering that the blower will shut off as it should once in a blue moon. I haven't been in there in months. I can't remember how many wires run into the blower,if there is more than one relay on the control board and what that relay is for if there is one or more. I'll pull it apart this evening and take some photos. e: spelling SynMoo fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Apr 15, 2008 |
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Apr 15, 2008 20:48
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How do I tell if a wall is load-bearing? I'm looking to eventually renovate a basement, and I want to take out a wall to open the main room so I will have space to install a bar. The wall in question is drywall with wood-frame, and it has one of those thick heavy beams running above it that the wall seems loosely attached to. I'm assuming that the ceiling beam is what is actually supporting things, and as long as I leave it alone things will be cool, but I want to be certain. Is there a way to know or test to see if the wall itself is doing any work?
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Apr 15, 2008 21:31
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SynMoo posted:I pulled the relay assembly out today. I realized that it's much more complicated that just a relay...time delay and all of that. My handler model # is TWV025B140A1. The relay is Honeywell Model No ST82U 1004/ Trane Model No 21C144385P01. Doing some Googling, that relay is obsolete and RLY-2807 is it's replacement. Further research shows that installation is as simple as connecting the wires to the proper terminals from the old relay to the new relay. Apparently the connections are labeled the same but are in a difficult location. Should be easy enough! I found a place that sells the relay for $30. Excellent! Thanks for the help, NickNails!
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Apr 16, 2008 00:51
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SynMoo posted:I pulled the relay assembly out today. I realized that it's much more complicated that just a relay...time delay and all of that. Are you sure it's the relay though? In your googling, is it a common failure mode? I just wouldn't want you to spend $30 and have it not be the relay. That would suck. I found this and seems to match your predicament. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=263113
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Apr 16, 2008 01:47
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His end result was replacing the relay/board combo. He has the same initial relay/board combo that I do and replaced it with the same relay/board combo that I plan to. His problem seems exactly like mine, although there was some confusion early on in the thread. The relay itself is fine I think, but the controller board bad and keeping the coil energized. To clarify, the relay and board are sold as a single $30 part. I believe it is the board that is bad and since the version i have is obsolete, I have no choice but to order a matching board/relay as a replacement. It's a pretty cheap fix and apparently a very common failure point so even if this doesn't fix the problem (99% sure it will) I will have done a bit of preventative maintenance and I'll be that much closer to finding the true culprit. It would be a different story if it were a $300 part and it were something I'd have to pay someone else to do. This is a cake wiring job that anyone could do. Again, thanks much for your help!
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Apr 16, 2008 03:41
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Pleads posted:I'm assuming that the ceiling beam is what is actually supporting things, and as long as I leave it alone things will be cool, but I want to be certain. Best way to tell if the wall is load bearing is to see if you have metal poles or I beams holding up the beam. If you don't, there is a chance it's load bearing. If you have the poles/I beams, there's a very low chance that it's load bearing. If you are hesitant to do anything, you could always get some support poles, but I doubt that they are needed. Post pics so we can see if you have any doubts.
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Apr 16, 2008 05:08
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SynMoo posted:His end result was replacing the relay/board combo. He has the same initial relay/board combo that I do and replaced it with the same relay/board combo that I plan to. I had the same damned problem. And yep, replacing the relay fixed it. The home inspector had said, "Oh it's probably wired that way to keep air constantly circulating". Which is true, it kept the airflow circulating; it also kept my electric meter circulating. Trane is lovely, they take a basic relay and slap their proprietary circuit board on it and charge a fortune. You're lucky you got away so cheap.
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Apr 16, 2008 12:48
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I just bought a 10" Ryobi Drill Press and am trying to use it, but the drat chuck keeps coming off the spindle! You're supposed to hammer the chunk on, and I spend a good minute hammering it on, but it still keeps coming off after a few minutes of drilling. I was trying to drill a 10mm (just over 3/8") hole in quarter-inch-thick steel and I'm not using lubricant. Is the resistance the reason it kept coming off? Is that normal?
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Apr 17, 2008 06:50
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Anonymous Name posted:I just bought a 10" Ryobi Drill Press and am trying to use it, but the drat chuck keeps coming off the spindle! You're supposed to hammer the chunk on, and I spend a good minute hammering it on, but it still keeps coming off after a few minutes of drilling. That much friction would wear out the bit, not cause the chuck to fall off.
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Apr 17, 2008 08:09
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The manual explicitly says you have to hammer the chuck onto the spindle. Nothing keeps it on besides friction.
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Apr 17, 2008 08:37
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Anonymous Name posted:I just bought a 10" Ryobi Drill Press and am trying to use it, but the drat chuck keeps coming off the spindle! You're supposed to hammer the chunk on, and I spend a good minute hammering it on, but it still keeps coming off after a few minutes of drilling. When it's hammered on properly, it shouldn't come off at all. The drill bit should spin before the chuck comes off. Are you sure it's all the way on? You really have to hammer on it (pun intended) until it's all the way on.
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Apr 17, 2008 14:32
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I live in a small two-story town house. I want to put tile on the floors in the two small bathrooms upstairs. I've done a lot of research on tiling and I'm confident I know what I need to do except for where the tile meets the bathtub, door, and vanity. I can't seem to find anything online that explains these parts of the job. The tub is the standard wall-to-wall fiberglass type. The vanity is trimmed with quarter-round. The room on the other side of the door is carpeted. Thanks for any help.
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Apr 18, 2008 14:21
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Wapp posted:I live in a small two-story town house. I want to put tile on the floors in the two small bathrooms upstairs. I've done a lot of research on tiling and I'm confident I know what I need to do except for where the tile meets the bathtub, door, and vanity. I can't seem to find anything online that explains these parts of the job. The tub is the standard wall-to-wall fiberglass type. The vanity is trimmed with quarter-round. The room on the other side of the door is carpeted. Thanks for any help. You pull the vanity up and put the tile underneath it. As well as the toilet (replace the wax ring, please don't try to reuse it, you'll just get pissed and have a lovely day). As for the tub, you take the tile as close to it as you can get, and then grout the remaining half inch or so. For the door, you have to put a transition edge between the hallway and the tile. I assume it's a carpeted hallway, so talk to the guy at Lowes or wherever and get a carpet to tile transition...thinger. It's basically just a piece of wood or metal that holds down the carpet edge on one side and makes a nice straight line for you to grout up to on the other. Also, do not forget to seal the grout. If you skimp on this, you'll be hating life in a few years when it's all nasty, mildewy, and filthy looking.
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Apr 18, 2008 16:27
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While moving a TV, I had intended to set it on a desk. When I got the TV next to the desk, I foolishly set it down on a couch to clear off a few books and things from the desk. Of course, the TV rolled off and now won't work. the wood/plastic housing of it is kind of warped out of position (just looks like some tabs that are supposed to line up don't now) and when I plugged it in to try and turn it on, it made a high-pitched sound for a second or two and didn't show any picture, the screen stayed dark, not snow/static. It won't turn on again now, and doesn't make the sound or do anything when I hit the power button. It was manufactured September 1991 and is made by Phillips. I'm pretty sure it's a CRT. Is it worth it opening it and trying to figure out what's wrong, or should I just trash it?
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Apr 19, 2008 07:43
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FilthyWalrus posted:It was manufactured September 1991 and is made by Phillips. I'm pretty sure it's a CRT. Is it worth it opening it and trying to figure out what's wrong, or should I just trash it?
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Apr 19, 2008 08:53
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FilthyWalrus posted:It was manufactured September 1991 and is made by Phillips. I'm pretty sure it's a CRT. Is it worth it opening it and trying to figure out what's wrong, or should I just trash it? Open it up and see if anything's jostled loose. That happened to me and I was able to successfully solder the piece back on, and it worked fine. If you're looking to buy a new one though, there's no better reason. 
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Apr 19, 2008 14:40
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And be damned careful, there's some bigass capacitors in there...and if you try loving with it while the thing is plugged in, bear in mind that they don't call them 'flyback' transformers for nothing. Also, even if it is hosed, there's a lot of neat components you can salvage out of there.
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Apr 19, 2008 16:43
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Thanks for the advice, it can't really hurt to open it up.
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Apr 19, 2008 23:24
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Sapper posted:And be damned careful, there's some bigass capacitors in there...and if you try loving with it while the thing is plugged in, bear in mind that they don't call them 'flyback' transformers for nothing. Even if it's unplugged, they can hold enough charge to give you a big jolt for at least a few hours afterwards.
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Apr 20, 2008 02:39
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Listen to this person, they speak wisdom. I've watched someone vaporize part of a screwdriver by accidentally arcing across those caps.
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Apr 21, 2008 11:05
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Arc welding as demonstrated by "air cleaner cover acros the car battery terminals"
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Apr 21, 2008 12:06
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Keep one hand behind you with your fingers through a belt loop while you're prodding around inside the tv. That way if you should happen to short, it won't be going from one hand to another via your arms and chest with your heart in the middle.
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Apr 21, 2008 13:30
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Sapper posted:You pull the vanity up and put the tile underneath it. As well as the toilet (replace the wax ring, please don't try to reuse it, you'll just get pissed and have a lovely day). As for the tub, you take the tile as close to it as you can get, and then grout the remaining half inch or so. For the door, you have to put a transition edge between the hallway and the tile. I assume it's a carpeted hallway, so talk to the guy at Lowes or wherever and get a carpet to tile transition...thinger. It's basically just a piece of wood or metal that holds down the carpet edge on one side and makes a nice straight line for you to grout up to on the other. Thanks for the info, Sapper.
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Apr 22, 2008 13:50
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Wapp posted:Thanks for the info, Sapper. One more thing- save yourself some misery and spend the cash on a tile-cutting table saw. They're $80-$100, but compared to the cash you'll save when you don't break 50 tiles trying to cut them with a damned coping saw cutter, sabre-saw tile blade, or score & split type, it's nothing. Alternatively, you could figure out all the measurements beforehand and the store will cut them for free when you buy them, but...best laid plans and all that. Be aware that the tablesaw-style tile cutters are water cooled- you fill the reservoir up before you start, and that water will go everywhere- nicely dyed with the 'sawdust' from the tiles you're cutting. So do the cutting outside, on something you can rinse. And don't let your plug lay in the water.
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Apr 22, 2008 14:52
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I am painting my basement. I need to put on a layer of Kilz then use my texture paint. Are the power roller things really worth it?
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Apr 22, 2008 15:40
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kri kri posted:I am painting my basement. I need to put on a layer of Kilz then use my texture paint. Are the power roller things really worth it? In my experience, the setup and cleanup time from a power roller doesn't make it so great for one (even large) room. Rent a power sprayer; a little bit faster, but significantly less overhead.
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Apr 22, 2008 20:08
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I had to paint a whole apartment and got a power roller. It takes a bit of practice, but once you got used to it, you can paint and paint and paint. It's nice. The cons: Cleaning it sucks, and also the roller is very heavy with the hose attached to it, so painting can actually get pretty exhausting. babyeatingpsychopath is right, though - a power sprayer totally kicks as power rollerīs rear end.
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Apr 23, 2008 15:00
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| # ? May 8, 2024 16:25 |
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Sliding mirrored closet doors: tacky or help make a small room look bigger?
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Apr 23, 2008 16:52
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