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Wapp posted:Sliding mirrored closet doors: tacky or help make a small room look bigger? I would think it would depend on the decor of the room.
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Apr 23, 2008 17:01
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Wapp posted:Sliding mirrored closet doors: tacky or help make a small room look bigger? All four walls, and the ceiling. 
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Apr 23, 2008 17:30
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Wapp posted:Sliding mirrored closet doors: tacky or help make a small room look bigger? I'm gonna go off to the left and say this: I have never lived in a room that was not improved by removing closet doors of any kind. For me doors are just a way of shrinking the space available. (Anyone remember that affordable housing concept house they built in California where they did away with closets altogether because it just ran up construction cost to no particular benefit? The rationale was that a closet requires essentially the same amount of work as framing and building a room. Anyone remember what that project was called?
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Apr 23, 2008 18:16
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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Mirrored closet doors are nice so you can see what you look like when you're getting ready for an interview or date.
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Apr 23, 2008 22:48
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So, I'm having a serious issue with my garden. It's all weeds. There is some patches of grass, but more than a three quarter of it is nasty weeds. It's getting to the point where the weed wacker won't cut them. So, any goons know the best method to kill the entire yard so I can plant new grass? Looking on the internet, Roundup is over $100, and I don't have that much money to spend. (Also, I only have about a month to do this)
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Apr 24, 2008 21:44
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Well...one way would be to basically burn brush and dry branches all over the yard, burning off any weeds and killing any seeds/roots/etc in the soil, then immediately (like, as soon as the ground is cool) spreading seed and laying down hay. Of course, this'll kill off worms and grubs as well. Also, probably not a good idea to do this near your house, and local ordinances might prohibit it. I used that method successfully at my old house where the white trash had spilled/dumped oil and gasoline into the ground, making dead patches where even weeds wouldn't grow, and other places where fuckin' thorns had an extensive root system. But it's risky. You could always try mowing the lawn really close, then planting a lot of fast-growing grass seed- the grass will choke the weeds somewhat. You could also lay black plastic down and let the summer sun bake the soil underneath for a few weeks- try to do it when the soil is already really dry, like summer drought weather. Lawns are actually pretty stupid and environmentally wasteful, if you really just don't want a weed field you could plant trees and make most of your lot wooded- it'd cut down on heating and cooling costs, and you'll never have to rake leaves. Plus you'd get lots of cute furry woodland critters to watch/feed/shoot. I'd do it to my back lot if it wasn't for the fact my property abuts other people's yards on all sides, and it'd be dickheaded on my part, even if the HOA permits it (which I don't think they've made a rule about that, they're pretty chill.) By the way, Roundup probably wouldn't do it anyway, weeds tend to be pretty damned tough, and they probably have well established root systems. Snap a coupla shots, let's see what you're dealing with.
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Apr 25, 2008 04:27
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I'll repost my post int he weed thread about weedkillers, in case you get the money, but if you don't have any to spend, Sapper is right that probably burning would be the cheapest way to go, and plastic would be the safest. But yeah, a lot of it depends on what sort of weeds they are and how big the area is. Pictures would be helpful. Weedkiller post follows- I won't give names of brands, because I have no doubt Aussie products won't be available in the US, but I can tell you what sort of stuff you should be using. For most everyday stuff, anything with the active ingredient of glyphosate as isopropalymine salts should do the trick. If you buy it as a concentrate it should come at either 360 or 450g/l strength. Glyphosate will enter a plants circulatory system and should wipe out the roots too. For most weeds, dilute it at 15mLs per litre of water, and you should be golden. If that isn't doing the trick, you need to cut the plant near the base, and paint on the concentrate undiluted within 30 seconds. This is to prevent the plant from releasing a protective sap, which a lot of Australian plants do, and may be the case with your desert weeds. Glyphosate is a broad spectrum killer, and is effectively a scorched-earth policy if used right. You will probably have to do it twice in order to wipe out any plants that have germinated after the first spraying. Make sure you keep your pets away from the area while you are spraying and for a day or two afterwards. It isn't bio-accumulative and shouldn't stay in the soil longer than a couple of weeks. Then, like other posters have said, lay down some weedmat, only cutting holes for what you want, then mulch or turf over the rest. For woody weeds, use something with the active ingredient Triclopyr - at least 60g/l concentration. You generally hack at the plant a bit to open some wounds, mix the poison with kero or diesel and paint it on. If the thistle is in the lawn, use a weedkiller with the active ingredient Bromxoynil - it is only absorbed into plants with broad leaves, and should leave your grass intact, including buffalo grass which is normally killed by "weed'n'feed" type products. Concentration is generally about 200g/L before you dilute it for use. If you are sure your lawn isn't buffalo, you can also use products with the acitve ingredient of Dicamba at 25ish g/L. Both of these products will also use MCPA at about 150-250g/L concentration. Edit: For long term control of broadleaf weeds you should be able to get a product with DAS in it. DAS is an acronym for 3 chemicals - simazine, amitrole 2-dichloropropionic acid. They generally market it as a "once a year" product. Basically unlike the other killers it will stick around in your soil and wipe out anything that comes back until it disperses in a year or so. Which is good if the stuff keeps germinating. Also, anything with Amitrole as the active ingredient is pretty good stuff, if you don't think the gyphosate is cutting the mustard. I use it to kill bamboo and wandering jew, both of which are pretty indestructible to normal herbicides.
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Apr 25, 2008 05:50
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Haikeeba! posted:I use it to kill ... wandering jew, both of which are pretty indestructible to normal herbicides. You know who else used special chemicals to kill wandering Jews? That's right.  I wonder how many of those are available over here in the US- whiny enviroweenies and all. I'll have to take a look online. That's a damned useful list, though, thanks. Fire is more fun, though 
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Apr 25, 2008 16:25
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Quick aircon question. My through-wall air conditioner sat unused for the winter. When turned on for the first time in several months, the fan initially failed to work. I pushed it free with my hand, the fan began to spin. Now the fan is extremely noisy. I will have to pull the unit out of the wall to examine it, I was hoping someone could give me a general idea of what to look for. Does it sound like a simple lubrication issue? The fan seems to spin fine, and responds to speed settings normally. It is just terribly noisy!
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Apr 26, 2008 03:16
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Alloyed posted:Quick aircon question. My through-wall air conditioner sat unused for the winter. When turned on for the first time in several months, the fan initially failed to work. I pushed it free with my hand, the fan began to spin. Now the fan is extremely noisy. What sort of a noise is it? If it's a squeaky noise it might need lubricating. If it is a rattling noise, it might be that the bearings are shot and need to be replaced.
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Apr 26, 2008 13:02
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Haikeeba! posted:What sort of a noise is it? If it's a squeaky noise it might need lubricating. If it is a rattling noise, it might be that the bearings are shot and need to be replaced.
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Apr 26, 2008 18:32
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Alloyed posted:It is sort of a... roaring noise, I guess. Not squeaky, sounds like there may be some rattling involved. I will take a look at the bearings and see if that is the issue. If the noise goes away, great. If not, at least it smells good.
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Apr 27, 2008 03:24
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Can power spray painting things be used indoors? If so I am going to buy one.
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Apr 28, 2008 21:59
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kri kri posted:Can power spray painting things be used indoors? If so I am going to buy one. Yes, they can be. Just tape up doors, cover stuff that you don't want paint on, that sort of thing.
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Apr 28, 2008 22:16
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A friend of mine is buying thier first home, and I want to get a nice book on home repair or other basic maintenance tasks for them. Any suggestionsor other first-hand reviews?
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Apr 29, 2008 06:45
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You can go to a bargain outlet like Ollies or whatever and get dozens of thick volumes for pennies. Not much changes in home repair, not quickly anyway. You could get a good, general DIY book and then a few smaller, specific tomes like siding, plumbing, etc. Better Homes and Gardens(I think) puts out some pretty good books. So does Black&Decker.
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Apr 29, 2008 12:59
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I've got a 220V AC dryer with a "your clothes are dry" buzzer that's painfully loud. I'd like to hack in and decrease the buzzer volume, which I've done on other buzzer-equipped devices by bending the metal buzzer plates that vibrate or inserting something like cardstock between them. If I unplug the thing and fiddle with the panel where the buzzer is, is this "safe" or are there killer-voltage capacitors inside a dryer like there are in televisions?
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Apr 30, 2008 01:31
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Shouldn't be anything dangerous in there. There shouldn't be any high voltage anything unless the damned thing has a TV built into it.
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Apr 30, 2008 03:33
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There might be a big cap on the motor. Stay away from that and you'll be fine.
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Apr 30, 2008 14:23
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Would a headphone splitter with individual volume controls (example) work "the other way" as a cheap two channel mic mixer for podcasting, or would the two channels combine into a terrible peaking death if the two people accidentally spoke at the same time?
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Apr 30, 2008 15:30
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The Aphasian posted:Would a headphone splitter with individual volume controls (example) work "the other way" as a cheap two channel mic mixer for podcasting, or would the two channels combine into a terrible peaking death if the two people accidentally spoke at the same time? Probably the opposite. Neither one would be loud enough to hear. Your computer is driving the mics, and splitting the driving voltage may not deliver enough current. Depending on how that's wired, it may not pass voltage to the mics at all, or only to one, or not enough to either.
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May 1, 2008 03:11
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I'm looking for a low profile air compressor. My basic goal is to have a <1gal compressor that I can drag out on my back porch and use on dusty computer parts instead of compressed air cans. All I've been able to find is for portable air stations for car tires, and finish nailer compressors which are just a bit to big for my apartment. Any advice?
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May 2, 2008 04:59
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Sanguinaire posted:I'm looking for a low profile air compressor. My basic goal is to have a <1gal compressor that I can drag out on my back porch and use on dusty computer parts instead of compressed air cans. All I've been able to find is for portable air stations for car tires, and finish nailer compressors which are just a bit to big for my apartment. Any advice? Super low budget comedy option - Get a huge car tyre, pump it up well beyond it's recommended level and attach a hose. I know you can get an adapter to run an airbrush from one...
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May 2, 2008 20:37
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Probably the opposite. Neither one would be loud enough to hear. Your computer is driving the mics, and splitting the driving voltage may not deliver enough current. Depending on how that's wired, it may not pass voltage to the mics at all, or only to one, or not enough to either. Yeah, that makes more sense. Thanks for the answer.
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May 2, 2008 21:12
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This is a bit of a daft question - what is the best way to get superglue off of plastic? The button on my shower fell off, so I glued it back on to the unit. Unfortunatly it seems as if a small bit broke off, which I didn't notice before, and now I need to put it back on. The button is attatched to a T shaped stem, that pushes the actual switch in the unit. Without the missing piece, it is too short to turn it off - which is a pain in the arse. The button and stem are on either side of the removable panel. What is the best way to get the bits I glued apart? Soaking the panel in warm soapy water? Pulling them apart?
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May 3, 2008 00:18
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Sanguinaire posted:I'm looking for a low profile air compressor. My basic goal is to have a <1gal compressor that I can drag out on my back porch and use on dusty computer parts instead of compressed air cans. All I've been able to find is for portable air stations for car tires, and finish nailer compressors which are just a bit to big for my apartment. Any advice? The easist way to do this is to get a scuba tank and a regulator with a blower attachment on it. You have to get the tank refilled eventually, but it's small and fairly lightweight. Helps if you already have the scuba tank and regulator like I did though.
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May 3, 2008 01:44
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C
slow crow fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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May 3, 2008 04:54
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Klams Jam posted:This is a bit of a daft question - what is the best way to get superglue off of plastic? Acetone will remove superglue. You should be able to get it any hardware store, and if you don't want to buy it, then pinch your girlfriend/wife/captive locked in the basement's nail polish remover, which are usually acetone based.
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May 3, 2008 14:38
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Or... I could use my own! I was under the impression acetone melted the plastic? I can't actually get in to the bit that's glued, so I'd have to soak it somehow. Thanks though, when I get a minute, I'll see if that will work!
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May 3, 2008 16:28
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I just bought a bright pink Hannah Montana mp3 player on discount and I want to paint it black. It's made of a hard plastic and I was wondering what kind of paint would be best for this? Should model toy paint work or is there something better?
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May 4, 2008 02:58
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lanochediablo posted:I just bought a bright pink Hannah Montana mp3 player on discount and I want to paint it black. It's made of a hard plastic and I was wondering what kind of paint would be best for this? Should model toy paint work or is there something better? Plastic dye would be the best, but other than that, model paint or Krylon for plastics would be pretty good.
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May 4, 2008 04:55
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Klams Jam posted:Or... I could use my own! Acetone will dissolve some plastics. Your best bet is to just try a bit on part of it before you go soaking the whole lot.
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May 4, 2008 07:54
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Would this warrant its own thread: im 22, just moved back in with the family, will be here for 17 months until i start law or med school, have a huge room to work with, it needs to be changed. My mission: create a cool manchild gooncave (that phrase itself contains possibly insurmountable oxymorons), while including numerous high tech add ons that will make life at home (after 5 years of pure freedom) much more bearable. One of my ex-girlfriends is also a professional interior designer (i think she's actually going to work ad Disney soon), so it will hopefully have a professional finishing touch added on. The thread will basically be the project from start to finish. Including brainstorming sessions (I have quite a few interests, but none of them are really cliche goony things, so throwing up some anime wall scrolls and getting a sweet sound system for my XBOX isn't going to cut it.) To give you an idea of what I mean, I am a musician. I've got a small home recording studio and a fuckton of other gear. My house has TERRIBLE sound insulation and its almost impossible to carry on a conversation without being heard by some one in the house. I find my self whispering when ever friends pay a visit. So, sound control or reduction will be top on my list. Also the lock on my door is a piece of poo poo and can be "picked" in about two seconds, once again affording me almost zero privacy. My parents are chill, are rarely barge in on me, but still just the thought that the can really disturbs me, and sort of kills the mood when I bring teh womenz over. Those are just my two most "practical" goals, to make my huge room less like my old high school room, and more like a place I feel comfortable hanging out with fellow musicians, girls, even friends. Of course, I have to make it interesting though. I've got a two year old computer that could serve as some sort of multimedia server/HAL2000 for my room. I also want it to look cool, and include a lot of features I couldn't think of by myself. Reasons why the thread would likely succeed: a) Who hasn't had the urge to uniquely pimp their room? b) Due to my hatred of anime, there will at least be no wall scrolls. c) The room itself is very large for a room, right below the size of the master bedroom. d) I'm on the opposite side of the house from my parents gently caress yeah  e) My mom is rich and basically gave me free reign to pimp out my room if it meant I would stay here instead of backpacking across Asia for a year, so cost shouldn't be TOO much of an issue as long as thing's are within reason. f) I got a BUNCH of tools, saws, paint, etc in the garage, so I can make some stuff by myself, or more likely lose a limb.edit: forgot to add i'd like some heavy psychedelic influences as well as a hidden camera or two yes I realize this post is as almost as long as the thread I would have posted, but I've spent so little time in this subforum I don't really "get it" yet. let me know what you peoples think. crikey IRL fucked around with this message at 10:32 on May 4, 2008 |
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May 4, 2008 10:25
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Yeah, go for it. Post a thread with some pictures of the room as it is, dimensions etc, and what you want doing. It's probably easier if you have some major thematic ideas or whatever, and ask how to do specific things, because otherwise there are just too many variables to post helpful advice.
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May 4, 2008 10:42
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I think it sounds like a lot of money you could be investing for early retirement. Why go to all that hassle for a temporary place? No matter how much you pimp it up it's still your parents house.
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May 6, 2008 04:37
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mcsuede posted:I think it sounds like a lot of money you could be investing for early retirement. Why go to all that hassle for a temporary place? No matter how much you pimp it up it's still your parents house. Well one of my requirements was going to be everything I buy be mobile, so I can re-use it when I move back out in a year. I think im just going to say gently caress it, and try to make a media center type thing out of my old computer, hook it up to my TV, my sound system, throw some recording studio insulation up on one of my walls, and buy some sort of psychedelic lights and tapestries. gently caress making a thread, gently caress effort. My biggest DIY project will be some sort of vacuum powered device to vent all the weed and heroin fumes out of room.
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May 6, 2008 05:52
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I'm painting my kitchen walls. Just plain sheet-rock with white paint on them currently, but we're going to go with an ox-blood red color. So, as for paint: enamel? oil? gloss? flat? semi-gloss? eggshell? latex? oil? I have no idea.
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May 6, 2008 21:11
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Depends on how you want it to look. Most would go with a latex based semi-gloss or eggshell. Semi-gloss is just that.. somewhat shiny. Eggshell has just a bit of a gloss to it, just enough to not be flat. Looks like.. an egg.  Since you're coming from white, you should be able to get away without any primer. If the paint is glossy, in bad shape, needs a lot of spackle or has a lot of stains on it, a coat or two of Kilz 2 Latex primer would do the top coat some good. edit: added primer info SynMoo fucked around with this message at 22:12 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 6, 2008 22:08
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JoeWindetc posted:I'm painting my kitchen walls. Just plain sheet-rock with white paint on them currently, but we're going to go with an ox-blood red color. So, as for paint: enamel? oil? gloss? flat? semi-gloss? eggshell? latex? oil? Generally interior walls are low sheen (which I guess you Yanks call eggshell), but for areas that get a lot of steam, or need cleaning often (like kitchens or bathrooms) semi-gloss will give you a better wearing surface. Enamel (oil based) paint will be a pain in the arse, so use an acrylic (water based) one. Generally speaking these days in terms of house painting enamel is only used on things like skirting board, doors, and window frames, as the quality of acrylic paint has got considerably better. While SynMoo is right that you won't need a primer, you may still need an undercoat. Because you are going from white to (what I assume) is a fairly deep colour, you may need to use a tinted undercoat to prevent the topcoat from looking washed out. When you get the paint mixed, the book or computer with the formula in it should tell the guy mixing it whether it requires a tinted undercoat or not. Before painting, make sure you clean the walls well, because kitchen walls can often accumulate little particles of grease all over them which will mean your new paint will adhere poorly. A bit of sugar soap and water will do the job just fine.
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May 7, 2008 04:40
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I'd like to build a custom computer case. For the plastic parts of the shell, I was wondering what to use? Silicone, Epoxy molding compounds? Does anyone have experience with using plastics to mold things? Any tips or pointers on making the perfect mold?
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May 8, 2008 02:26
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