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quote:http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000633YN6...mp;linkCode=asn I have a couple of those, as well as a couple of plastic travel-type crates for my dogs. I haven't noticed any real difference in them, except that, as very young puppies, they seemed to feel more secure in the enclosed plastic type crates. I prefer the wire ones though. Easier to clean, easier to see inside, and the ones I have are collapsible and easy to transport. Plus, I've had dogs chew through plastic crates, which sucks. The wire ones aren't really chewable, since they're metal, so they're more escape-proof. Like I said though, I use both.
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May 1, 2008 16:20
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sucks to ur assmar posted:...I'm assuming you mean ex-pen, not crate? Otherwise I'm not quite sure what you mean. I think he means the dog lifted his leg and aimed the piss out of the side of the crate. Why are you confused? Now I'm confused. 
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May 1, 2008 17:14
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Lioness posted:I think he means the dog lifted his leg and aimed the piss out of the side of the crate. Why are you confused? Now I'm confused. Yeah, I did mean that. Smart little guy, he rarely has accidents now. I let him have a run of the apartment when I am gone. He just sits and looks out the window waiting for me. Although the little fucker pissed in my bathroom today, good thing it is linoleum in there.
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May 1, 2008 17:18
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Lioness posted:I think he means the dog lifted his leg and aimed the piss out of the side of the crate. Why are you confused? Now I'm confused. I got it now, I was thinking the dog was jumping out, and pissing or something. Slow on the uptake. 
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May 1, 2008 17:44
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We'll probably just stick with the plastic ones then. They are in the kitchen so it's not like they could see us easily if they had wires. I bought some expando leashes so we can start walking them together. Training classes always tell you to have them in the heel position when walking, but that seems kind of unfair since they don't get to go sniff everything and explore their world more. I've found that Schnapps (schnauzer, 2 years old) likes to be at the end of the lead (16 ft) but makes kind of a circle around me stopping to smell and investigate things. I usually pull him back in when we come upon people and then let him back out once we've passed them. (Yesterday for the first time he actually did this on his own! I'm so proud!) The puppy tends to walk behind me but goes ahead of and around me too (much less cleanly than Schnapps, he gets his lead tangled a bunch, I just have to "ut" at Schnapps and he realizes he's about to clothesline himself and he'll retrace his steps) Am I being a bad owner for letting the dogs investigate things (walk in front of me) on the walk? Or should we just do a strict power walk them in the heel position the whole time?(Insert obligatory Cesar Millan Alpha walks in the front of the pack remark) ps. Moved the puppy's crate into the kitchen with Schnapps' and the howling was greatly reduced, in fact I had to wake him up to take him out and I'm much happier again.  Before I had it by the front door to make it easier for me to get him out and to wash out the accidents. Gah cats are so much easier. :P
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May 1, 2008 17:47
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quote:Am I being a bad owner for letting the dogs investigate things (walk in front of me) on the walk? Or should we just do a strict power walk them in the heel position the whole time?(Insert obligatory Cesar Millan Alpha walks in the front of the pack remark) My opinions on Cesar Millan aside (I don't freaking like him, at all, he makes me want to bang my head against walls) I think the whole "always walk in front of your dog, never let them exit door first, etc" is a complete load of crap. To me, it says more about the type of leader you are if you can allow your dog to enjoy its surroundings and then ask for and receive its attention when necessary, rather than constantly saying "NOPE NOPE NOPE ALL EYES ON ME DON'T YOU DARE LOOK AT ANYTHING ELSE NOW MARCH." To me, the latter seems more like an insecure leader trying desperately to control their dogs, whereas the former shows a leader who is confidant in their control of their dogs, and doesn't feel the need to be a nazi about it. I know that I'm in control of my dogs at all times, and I often take the whole pack out for excursions. I put them on long leashes and let them walk wherever they want. They're not walking in front of me to "assert their authority," they're walking in front of me because they're having fun and they're excited. I don't allow lunging and pulling, but walking in front is fine. I know that if at any time I say "okay guys, heel up" they'll fall back and walk calmly beside me. The fact that they do what I ask proves that I'm in control- in observing my dogs, it seems that only the lower ranking dogs constantly push to assert their authority over the higher ranking dogs, so all of the "YOU ONLY DO THINGS AFTER ME ME FIRST" just smacks of total insecurity, to me. It's always hillarious to me when I see someone freaking out at their dogs to "HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEL" or shoving their dogs behind them so that they can walk first. The dogs always get these "jesus what crawled up your rear end?" expressions. Aside from what Cesar Millan and certain other trainers would have you believe, most dogs are not constantly trying to one-up their owners and take over the world. They just want to have fun, and as long as you're reasonably confidant in your control over them, the dog doesn't sit around keeping score of who walks through the door first when. So no, there's nothing wrong with letting your dogs run ahead of you on walks. The one thing I will ask (though you seem to be already doing it) is to make sure that you rein them in when people (especially people with other dogs) walk by. I can't tell you how many times I've been walking my pack only to be assaulted by someone with a dog on a Flexi-Lead. I then have to try to untangle their dog(s) from mine, and stop some kind of confrontation, while they're standing there saying "aw shucks he's friendly he ain't gonna hurt nobody." Maybe he won't, but some of my dogs are dog aggressive and we don't want to be friends with your dog. So yeah, it's fine, just be careful with the flexi-leads and make sure your dogs don't bother other people or their dogs. I've gotten to the point where I cringe and get out of the way if it all possible if I see someone coming with a dog on a flexi-lead.
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May 1, 2008 18:10
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Superconductor posted:My opinions on Cesar Millan aside (I don't freaking like him, at all, he makes me want to bang my head against walls) I think the whole "always walk in front of your dog, never let them exit door first, etc" is a complete load of crap. To me, it says more about the type of leader you are if you can allow your dog to enjoy its surroundings and then ask for and receive its attention when necessary, rather than constantly saying "NOPE NOPE NOPE ALL EYES ON ME DON'T YOU DARE LOOK AT ANYTHING ELSE NOW MARCH." To me, the latter seems more like an insecure leader trying desperately to control their dogs, whereas the former shows a leader who is confidant in their control of their dogs, and doesn't feel the need to be a nazi about it. Way to feel threatened by a dog trainer. 
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May 1, 2008 19:33
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This may sound like sheer lunacy, but... Is it okay to let kittens hang out around well cleaned milk crates? You know, the standard plastic bin affair, tonnes of little holes for little paws and such to play with. I've got some lying around and was wondering if it would cause a problem?
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May 1, 2008 19:41
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Kalma posted:Am I being a bad owner for letting the dogs investigate things (walk in front of me) on the walk? Or should we just do a strict power walk them in the heel position the whole time? As long as you've got control over the dogs, then you're in the clear. Sniffing and all is cool when its by your leave, so make sure the walk isn't you being dragged by the dogs from pee-tree to pee-tree. My dogs walk in front of me, because the 4 of us can't all fit on the sidewalk side-by-side. I just just a splitter to walk to older two on the same leash (a great tool that I definitely recommend), and I put the puppy on her own leash since she's a spaz and still getting used to walking at a normal pace. They know the commands "lets go", "wait", "lets cross" (the stress), and I'm still working on "gee" and "haw". I'd love to have a chariot or sled and have them pull me around the neighborhood for exercise.  Baby steps. Do be careful with the flexi-leashes though. They get tangled up easily with eachother, and they leave you with much less control than a traditional leash. I've seen a dog fight with dogs on flexi leashes, and it was a mess. I can't help but think that it could have been stopped much earlier (or possibly avoided) had the dogs been on regular leashes.
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May 1, 2008 19:58
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RazorBunny posted:Maybe I'll put a note that I want it to go to Duncan and any extra should go back into the rescue. Hmm... They would love that, trust me. ANY amount, ANY earmark. 
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May 1, 2008 20:41
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alucinor posted:They would love that, trust me. ANY amount, ANY earmark. I sent fifty dollars in his name and I emailed his foster mom to ask if she had any better pictures of him. The ones on the site aren't flattering, and he's so pretty  I told her I wanted to show him off and see if any of my friends knew someone who wanted him. I'll probably pimp him out here as well, if she sends me anything, just because he was beautiful and sweet and deserves to be shown off. Man, if I didn't have a rat and a cat and live in a townhouse, Duncan would have come home with me on Saturday. He was absolutely a doll. And at his age, and with the heart condition, I worry he won't find a home. So hey, if anyone knows somebody in the Northern Virginia/DC area who would love to have an older blue brindle bulldog/pit mix with a gentle soul and a big goofy face, let me know. He has very good manners and is crate-trained, but has some food aggression issues towards other dogs that they say are improving. One of these days I'll be able to go to one of these fairs and come home with a new friend. I look greatly forward to it.
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May 1, 2008 21:06
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Twisted Mentat posted:This may sound like sheer lunacy, but... Wash them off and they should be fine unless you were planning on that being the only thing they get to walk on then they should have a blast with it. -- Thanks for the advice on the walking. I'm usually pretty careful with keeping them close and locked whenever we run into someone else just because I hate being ganged up on by weird dogs so I won't do it to someone else. I understand that locking the leash isn't a foolproof way of keeping them close to me in the event of a fight, but I accept the risks. Schnapps is really good at not tangling his lead, the puppy sucks at it, but mostly he sucks at walking on the lead too no matter how long or short it is. (though he walks 90% better when they walk together vs. walking alone)
Kalma fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 1, 2008 |
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May 1, 2008 21:46
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Go figure, after I make my vet appointment, his eye clears up.
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May 2, 2008 00:03
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Show vs. pet quality puppies. Clear up an argument for me. My mom got a Havanese puppy from a good breeder. Mom claims he is a show quality puppy. Problem is, he has a messed-up ear-it sticks up rather than lying flat...like when dogs cock one ear? But permanently. Supposedly an issue from birth, not genetics. I say that, due to the ear, the puppy is pet-quality only. Mom claims he is show quality- except for the ear, which may/may not be a problem in the ring. He could be bred and the ear thing wouldn't happen in his puppies. Which is it? Edited to add: He's fixed, since none in the family have the time/energy to devote to showing. BlondieIsMyNameO fucked around with this message at 17:07 on May 2, 2008 |
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May 2, 2008 04:03
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BlondieIsMyNameO posted:Show vs. pet quality puppies. Quality matters little. It's actual accomplishments that determine whether a dog should be bred or not. If the dog hasn't done anything, it shouldn't have balls. Period.
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May 2, 2008 05:07
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Just got my kitties tonight! I adopted a brother and sister pair from a foster mom, and they're about 9 weeks old. I'll probably be visiting this thread tons now with every stupid little question such as: I'm starting them off by keeping them in the bathroom where their litter box is (one of them used it earlier right in front of me, so, yay for being trained). I let them into my bedroom and the living room for about 15 minutes each just for variety. The light in the bathroom also has a fan, and one switch controls both. Better to leave them over night with the light and fan on, or off? Oh, and this is them 
Elijya fucked around with this message at 07:19 on May 2, 2008 |
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May 2, 2008 07:04
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I don't think it matters. Cats have pretty good night vision. If you have a night light or something then that's great but I don't think it would hurt them to be in the dark. Ticking clocks or radios help keep them happy too.
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May 2, 2008 12:26
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Can any of you horse people help me figure out why my yearling colt is so freaking skinny? He's on a rotational worming schedule approved by our vet, he's eating twelve quarts of Nutrena Mare and Foal 16% (the best thing I can find around here and the highest protein percentage, trust me, I've looked) and while he doesn't have free access to hay, he gets half of a 50 pound bale a day. (Sucks, I'd like to give them free access, but hay is still going to be a bit scare for probably another month or so around here, we buy as much as we can find but we still have to be careful with it.) He's not being over exercised; I just work on basic ground manners with him, usually two 15-20 minute sessions a day. He does run around a lot in the woods and splashes around in our pond and that sort of thing, but it doesn't seem like it should be enough exertion to make him so freaking thin. Pre-winter he wasn't fat by any means, I think he may be a naturally lean horse, but I certainly couldn't see his ribs, at least. In about a week I'll be moving them to some decent pasture- do you guys think maybe that will make a difference? Maybe the lack of pasture is why he's lost weight. I've already asked our vet about it, but our vet seems to think he's fine. I still say he looks too thin, I definitely shouldn't be seeing ribs. Should I get a second opinion? Increase/change his feed? Just wait until he's spent some time on pasture, and see if he improves? Pics, click for big:   My gelding has also lost a bit of weight over the winter, but geez, at least I can't see his ribs, and that's WITH him being ridden/exercised regularly:  (Those pics were taken about an hour ago, so I haven't groomed them yet today, excuse the shag.) Pre-winter, for reference:  Am I overreacting, or what? is it just a matter of waiting until I can move him to pasture, or could something else be up? Do you guys think my vet is right, or should I get a second opinion? EDIT: I guess it must be the lack of pasture. Still, losing THAT much weight, when he's getting tons of grains and enough hay? I just think the level of weight loss is pretty extreme, even considering the lack of pasture. Supercondescending fucked around with this message at 14:17 on May 2, 2008 |
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May 2, 2008 13:45
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Hi Superconductor, Horses are a tricky lot aren't they. I've got 5 horses of my own of different breeds and find keeping weight on my Thoroughbreds incredibly difficult. Personally I wouldn't be overly worried about your horse yet, he's a ribby, but his topline doesn't look so bad, and with a young horse you don't want them fat or it can severely compromise their growth. Horses need to eat 2% of their body weight (roughly 10 kilo's) a day to keep their guts working and preventing colic. Unfortunately 10 kilo's of hay doesn't always equal enough nutrition to keep the weight on. Weather conditions, working conditions and pasture all factor in our feeding regime. You can be feeding all you want, but it has to be the right thing for your horse. I don't know what feeds you have acess to where you live (I'm in Australia) but down here we have Hygain feeds which I swear by. They're a micronized grain feed, which you bulk out with chaff (Lucerne, cereal, wheaten or oaten). Bear in mind that a horses stomach is about the size of a football, 3 smaller feeds a day will be digested and used far better than one large feed, half of a large feed will be pushed straight through the digestive system and the horse won't gain anything from it. Sometimes rugging will affect weight gain/loss, a cold horse will burn fat/energy to keep warm and a hot horse will dehydrate and use those same nutrients to keep it's body going. Keep on top of his teeth, check to see if he's dropping any feed. Goodluck with him, he's a lovely looking boy
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May 2, 2008 14:28
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I've made an appointment for our dog to be neutered and I have a few concerns. First of all, after I made the appointment, I read some iffy reviews of the hospital (Alexandria Animal Hospital in Alexandria, VA) online and that made me a little nervous. If anyone knows anything about them, I'd be interested in your experiences. Second, is it standard procedure most places to keep the dog overnight after a neuter? The only reason I ask is because the veterinarians we took my dogs to when I was growing up usually sent them home the same day. Finally, I am preparing my budget for the month and called the vet today to find out the cost of the procedure. For reference, our dog is 19lbs and has two descended testicles. They want to charge $383 for the whole procedure, including anesthetic, the overnight stay..etc. Does this seem a little steep to anyone? I'm certainly financially stable enough to pay it, but I feel like I might be getting a taken for a ride. If I am, it makes me wonder if their priorities are in order in terms of care. I may be reading too much into things, but I just want to do right by my dog. Thanks in advance for any insights.
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May 2, 2008 20:04
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MsJoelBoxer posted:They want to charge $383 for the whole procedure, including anesthetic, the overnight stay..etc. Does this seem a little steep to anyone? I'm certainly financially stable enough to pay it, but I feel like I might be getting a taken for a ride. If I am, it makes me wonder if their priorities are in order in terms of care. I may be reading too much into things, but I just want to do right by my dog. Thanks in advance for any insights. 383 bucks? Christ, I thought it averaged around 100. Neutering is a relatively non-invasive, simple procedure compared to a spay, right?
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May 2, 2008 20:08
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MsJoelBoxer posted:First of all, after I made the appointment, I read some iffy reviews of the hospital (Alexandria Animal Hospital in Alexandria, VA) online and that made me a little nervous. If anyone knows anything about them, I'd be interested in your experiences. You should call my vet. I don't know what they charge for neuters, but their prices overall are very reasonable and they have treated us fantastically. They're right by Fair Oaks Mall in Fairfax, so not far from you. The clinic is impeccably run, the techs are awesome, they have a large staff of doctors, and they have a designated floor in the building for surgeries. They're the Pender Veterinary Clinic at 703.591.3304. I can say nothing bad about them.
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May 2, 2008 20:20
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BlondieIsMyNameO posted:I say that, due to the ear, the puppy is pet-quality only. Mom claims he is show quality- except for the ear, which may/may not be a problem in the ring. He could be bred and the ear thing wouldn't happen in his puppies. Which is it? You are correct, not her. A flaw in appearance usually does prevent the animal from winning in shows; and that is the definition of "not show quality". "His kids would be show quality so he is too" is not a true statement in the show world. See also HousecatMD's comment about not breeding an animal who can't do well in the show ring; his pups (were he intact) would be less desirable to serious show folks because their father had not finished. My mom showed IGs when I was a kid, and she did a little bit of breeding (2 litters, 3 pups total) after her bitch finished. One of our loveliest pups was born with a broken tail-tip, I think she was breech and the vet said it was twisted partly behind her as she came out. She had absolutely gorgeous color and conformation, and if I recall correctly (this 20+ years ago, here) her sire, dam, and grandparents were all finished champions. But that little bent tailtip meant she was "pet quality" and we sold her instead of keeping her. I had to have this explained to me at length because I was heartbroken that she had to leave us.
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May 2, 2008 20:27
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RazorBunny posted:You should call my vet. I don't know what they charge for neuters, but their prices overall are very reasonable and they have treated us fantastically. They're right by Fair Oaks Mall in Fairfax, so not far from you. The clinic is impeccably run, the techs are awesome, they have a large staff of doctors, and they have a designated floor in the building for surgeries.
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May 2, 2008 20:29
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MsJoelBoxer posted:Second, is it standard procedure most places to keep the dog overnight after a neuter? The only reason I ask is because the veterinarians we took my dogs to when I was growing up usually sent them home the same day. For a spay, they usually keep them overnight. But a neuter? I've never ever had an animal need to spend anymore than a few hours at the vet afterwards. Hell when I got Professor done, I dropped him off at 8 am and they said I could come get him at anytime after 12. It rather sounds like they're trying to scam you out of some extra cash by keeping him overnight. Unless something goes seriously wrong I can't imagine a neuter needing an overnight stay, it's a pretty quick procedure.
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May 3, 2008 01:52
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In the clinic where I work now, spays and neuters spend one night with us. In the first clinic I worked in, we kept nothing overnight if not totally necessary. In the second, we only kept spays overnight. It's doctor's preference, I think, and the hospitalization isn't generally expensive enough to think it's to pad the bill. superconductor: Has your yearling had bloodwork done? Also, do you rotate dewormers and have you had a stool sample checked for parasites? To me, he has a wormy look, but there are plenty of things that can give them that unthrifty appearance. I think the fact that your vet doesn't seem concerned is reason to look for a new vet. Crab Ran fucked around with this message at 02:31 on May 3, 2008 |
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May 3, 2008 02:20
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Periodically cats, especially indoor or effectively-indoor older cats, just start galloping around at full speed. They stop for a few seconds - panting, ears sideways, crazy-eyed and tail-lashing - then go back to running full-tilt back and forth. It seems to be a standard cat thing, but what is the name for this behavior? My mother would call it "the rips," as in "Pinky had the rips and knocked the lamp over," but a fruitless search indicates that nobody else on the Internet uses that term.
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May 3, 2008 12:17
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Just a quick question - my cat has just come back from having an enema and they have given him a dose of valium to stimulate his appetite (he hasn't eaten properly for a couple of weeks now). He has absolutely zero coordination and has fallen down the stairs twice so far, as well as that, he just won't stop yowling! How long will it take for the valium to get out of his system? I'm trying to stop him jumping on things but so far it's proving difficult.
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May 3, 2008 12:53
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Dubious Merit posted:It seems to be a standard cat thing, but what is the name for this behavior? Spontaneous temporary insanity.
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May 3, 2008 13:00
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Women's Rights? posted:For a spay, they usually keep them overnight. But a neuter? I've never ever had an animal need to spend anymore than a few hours at the vet afterwards. Hell when I got Professor done, I dropped him off at 8 am and they said I could come get him at anytime after 12. Seconding this. My puppies were neutered at eight weeks. I still was allowed to bring them home the afternoon after the procedure, maybe 4 hours later. They were groggy and we had to watch the stitches, but they were just fine. Two neuters plus adoption fees cost me $130, so I'd say you're definitely being fed something hot and brown. Edit: Sorry, I worded that way wrong. I meant the bit about the overnight stay sounded like bull, not the neutering fee. Though that still seems a bit high to me. little green jewel fucked around with this message at 14:00 on May 3, 2008 |
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May 3, 2008 13:14
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little green jewel posted:Seconding this. My puppies were neutered at eight weeks. I still was allowed to bring them home the afternoon after the procedure, maybe 4 hours later. They were groggy and we had to watch the stitches, but they were just fine. Two neuters plus adoption fees cost me $130, so I'd say you're definitely being fed something hot and brown. Veterinary expenses vary widely by geographic location, and often procedures are discounted for animals being adopted. You can call around to compare prices, but I wouldn't automatically think you are being taken for a ride.
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May 3, 2008 13:30
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I'm going to have to take my dog to the vet tomorrow because he's scratching his ears again. Last time we took him in for this, the vet said that he had a yeast infection and he got a shot and some medicine to squirt in his ears and massage in. They said he has environmental allergies which cause the inside of his ears to become swollen, which in turn exacerbates the yeast infection. Does anyone have any ideas on things I can do to help Wrigley? I don't have any idea what to do for environmental allergies. I'm not sure what exactly he's allergic to but I know the pollen and mold counts around here have been high lately. I just wanted some ideas to nip this in the bud so he doesn't keep getting yeast infections.
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May 3, 2008 19:09
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Dubious Merit posted:Periodically cats, especially indoor or effectively-indoor older cats, just start galloping around at full speed. They stop for a few seconds - panting, ears sideways, crazy-eyed and tail-lashing - then go back to running full-tilt back and forth. I've heard it called "the zoomies" and "the crazies." I would pay so much to find out what exactly is going through a cat's mind right then.
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May 3, 2008 20:04
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drat Bananas posted:I've heard it called "the zoomies" and "the crazies." I would pay so much to find out what exactly is going through a cat's mind right then.
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May 3, 2008 20:08
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When an housecat attempts to "bury" its food by clawing at the area around the feeding dish, does that mean it doesn't like the food or it's trying to save it for later? I can't really tell with my cat, I assume the latter because she'll just go back and eat the same stuff eventually, though with wet food sometimes she won't touch it at all and just repeatedly tries to "bury" it.
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May 4, 2008 00:19
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I hope this doesn't offend anyone, but when my cats get the "zoomies" we call it the barneys, it's the Bermuda way of saying retard. For instance, "Wow, Kitty has a serious case of the Barneys." This mostly comes from the fact that she tends to either get stuck to things with her claws, or run into walls.
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May 4, 2008 00:48
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Crazedscot, I think the food-burying is instinct, as a wild cat may wish to bury its food to hide it from scavengers/other predators, in order to come back and munch on it later. Speculation of course, but one of my cats only tries to cover his food if the others are hovering nearby eying his bowl. As for the crazy running around, we call it a "maddy", as in "the cats are on a maddy again". It was the term my parents used when one of our dogs did a mad run through the house, and it stuck, so I still use it when watching the cats rampage through.
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May 4, 2008 01:47
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TheGreatFezini posted:I'm going to have to take my dog to the vet tomorrow because he's scratching his ears again. Last time we took him in for this, the vet said that he had a yeast infection and he got a shot and some medicine to squirt in his ears and massage in. They said he has environmental allergies which cause the inside of his ears to become swollen, which in turn exacerbates the yeast infection. Yay I can answer this one! Bridge has the exact same problem, or had. I'm sure the fact that her ears are wide open to the elements doesn't help either. Try some Solid Gold Seameal in his food. Sachiel directed me towards it a few months ago after it worked for their cat and she hasn't had a yeast infection since. Buy the smallest jar and give it a try.
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May 4, 2008 07:17
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sucks to ur assmar posted:Yay I can answer this one! Bridge has the exact same problem, or had. I'm sure the fact that her ears are wide open to the elements doesn't help either. Try some Solid Gold Seameal in his food. Sachiel directed me towards it a few months ago after it worked for their cat and she hasn't had a yeast infection since. Buy the smallest jar and give it a try. Thanks so much! Good to know I'm not the only one with this problem - Wrigley has big tall ears too so I get what you mean about open to the elements. I'll go out and see if our local stores have any of this in stock.
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May 4, 2008 11:16
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Kinda a vet question here; I know those are usually no-nos, but it's Sunday and I can't get in touch with the practise until tomorrow. A little advice until then would be most appreciated. Murphy had an extremely bad case of pneumonia a few weeks ago. They treated this with three days of nebulization, a week and a half regiment of clavamox and something else I can't quite remember right now, and bed-rest. It seemed to work; yesterday we took him in for his two week checkup and the x-rays showed his lungs mostly clear. The coughing/honking had almost completely stopped; the vet said he could go back to regular activity levels. Much celebratory running about was had last night, including splashing through a muddy creek. When we got home I had to bathe him, but made sure he was towelled dry and used a hair-dryer just to be safe, so he was only a little damp when put up in his crate for the night. I woke up at around 4 or 5 to the unwelcome honking noise of a coughing fit. When I let him out for the morning another one followed suit, and another when he came in. We just spent 300 bucks yesterday to be told he was in the all-clear; did getting damp give him a relapse, or was it all the activity? I just want this poor dog to be well already. 
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May 4, 2008 14:47
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