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mr.belowaverage posted:Depending on how your auto is controlled, there could be an electronics or internal solenoid issue. That means it either needs resetting/reprogramming or the transmission needs an overhaul. I'm guessing the transmission wasn't rebuilt with the engine. Unless Ford was ahead of the game, a '92 Ranger is probably still an all-hydraulic transmission. GM was just starting to switch over to electronically controlled automatics around '93-'94 and I think they didn't finish until '96 or so, at least in RWD applications. If it's sticking in first until it warms up, that's a mechanical failure anyway. Something is not building enough pressure until it gets hot and tolerances change; it may be repairable by just servicing the valvebody but it really depends on where in the transmission the failure is. I know there are some Ford automatic geniuses here - maybe shoot frozenphil a PM?
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May 6, 2008 16:19
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I guess this is a detailing question, I have the stock alloy rims on my IS300 and one of the rims it seems that brake dust has been burned in and it is extremely hard to get rid of. So I detailed my car yesterday and cleaned all 4 wheels and three of them are shiny and clean except one. The brake dust on the rim almost has a sandpaper feel to it but wheel cleaner and scrubbing doesn't get it off. Any tips? I've heard about acid cleaners but would that damage the finish? Also the rim is dull as poo poo compared to the other ones. I was wondering if there's a spray, foam or some sort of cleaner that can break that poo poo down that regular scrubbing and wheel cleaner can't? thanks AI<3
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May 6, 2008 18:12
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Give claybars a shot.
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May 6, 2008 18:13
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nm posted:Give claybars a shot. Ohhhhhh poo poo I didn't even think of that  thanks man, I'll see if it'll work. I don't want to do anything that'll gently caress up the finish so claybar would be good. thanks again
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May 6, 2008 18:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unless Ford was ahead of the game, a '92 Ranger is probably still an all-hydraulic transmission. GM was just starting to switch over to electronically controlled automatics around '93-'94 and I think they didn't finish until '96 or so, at least in RWD applications. Yeah, that was top-of-my-head. Looks like you're right, thought there is some electric solenoid control. Else, ROUGH, HARSH, OR DELAYED 1-2 UPSHIFT 1. Improper fluid level. 2. Poor engine performance. 3. Improperly adjusted kickdown linkage. 4. Improperly adjusted intermediate band. 5. Main control pressure too high. 6. Governor sticking. 7. Damaged intermediate servo. 8. Engine vacuum leak. 9. Valve body bolts loose or too tight. 10. Sticking or dirty valve body. 11. Vacuum leak to diaphragm unit. 12. Vacuum diaphragm bent, sticking, or leaking. There's the official unofficial troubleshooting list.
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May 6, 2008 19:55
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I have a bit of an issue with airbags and glasses. I always put my contacts in before I drive, partly because it's a million times better, but also because I have a horrible fear of crashing, impacting with the airbag and finding shards of glass embedded in my iris... just me? Also, torque steer, is it normal to pull to one side under heavy acceleration? ('08 GTI) Doesn't pull under normal driving or under breaking. Edit: Answered the latter myself. Yes, normal. I always thought it only affected whilst changing direction, turns out pulling is torque steer. 
blambert fucked around with this message at 22:14 on May 6, 2008 |
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May 6, 2008 22:06
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blambert posted:I have a bit of an issue with airbags and glasses. I always put my contacts in before I drive, partly because it's a million times better, but also because I have a horrible fear of crashing, impacting with the airbag and finding shards of glass embedded in my iris... just me? I was told my glasses were made to not harm my eyes in the event of a crash, but I have no idea if it's actually true. I have plastic lenses, so at least they wont shatter into tiny shards of death. Google says you shouldn't worry about it, but I don't know what the increase in risk is.
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May 7, 2008 05:41
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KozmoNaut posted:I was told my glasses were made to not harm my eyes in the event of a crash, but I have no idea if it's actually true. I have plastic lenses, so at least they wont shatter into tiny shards of death. I was the driver in a 35mph crash to the front driver's corner of the car. So the impact was maybe 45 deg or so. My seatbelt locked in place and then I hit the side airbag. When the crash settled down, I noticed I couldn't see well. I thought it was the crash, but then I realized my glasses were off. They had flown onto the dash. I think this could happen in a head on crash as well, which would be a good thing.
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May 7, 2008 06:14
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Last week, when pulling my motor, I found my transmission mount was busted. I called around and everyplace had to order the part (none locally). I went to the place that had the best price and ordered it. The part comes in monday morning, and last night I open the box, pull the part out, and I notice my hand is dirty. I look at the part, and its oily and dirty, and apears to have been painted (who paints rubber?). I end up taking it back, but its going to take them another 4 days to get the part (good thing I took the $25/day hoist back!). I ended up going to autozone and spending an extra $4 to have the part tommorow (a week after pulling the motor!) So... I've never bought a new part that was actually a used part, has this happened to you? does this sort of thing happen often? I got the part from schucks, do they do that poo poo a lot? Im guessing someone replaced thier transmission mount and returned the dirty one. The thing thats odd about that is that the part doesnt look bad, just dirty and used.
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May 7, 2008 16:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unless Ford was ahead of the game, a '92 Ranger is probably still an all-hydraulic transmission. GM was just starting to switch over to electronically controlled automatics around '93-'94 and I think they didn't finish until '96 or so, at least in RWD applications. Will do, thanks. And I'll try to check it out when it stops raining. mr.belowaverage posted:Yeah, that was top-of-my-head. Looks like you're right, thought there is some electric solenoid control. Else, Nice, thanks man. I'll shoot 'frozenphil' a PM and if he doesn't get back to me in a bit I'll start looking over this stuff.
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May 8, 2008 00:39
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I'm sure this is stupid, but I'm stuck and can't find anything on-line. I'm not much of a car person - I apologize in advance for incorrect terminology. I'm trying to replace the front rotors on a 93 Mazda Protege. After battling with the rusted brake pad assembly, I finally got it disassembled, but can't get the rotor off. I've done this before on a different car where the rotor was just freely sitting on the bolts, but after some research I guess some rotors are attached to the wheel hub. However, everywhere I look seems to say that in this case, there would be two Phillip's head screws holding it on. My rotor does not have this. For reference, here's a picture of what the rotor looks like (not my actual car):  The only thing I could think that would be holding it on would be some sort of screw in that little hole off-center from the upper right corner. However, if I look into that hole, the sides are threaded, but all I see is a flat metal surface that there's no way I could screw out. Is something here somehow holding the rotor on? Will I have to try to drill it out? If I remove the spindle nut will I be able to get to it from the other side (some Q&A sites seem to imply this may be the case for some cars)? I've also read that in many case the rotor could get rusted to the hub - based on the amount of rust I wouldn't be surprised if this was the case. I tried to lightly knock the rotor loose a bit, but to no avail. Is the rotor still attached somewhere, or am I gonna just have to bust a rusty connection.
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May 8, 2008 03:35
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Put a bolt into that hole, and turn it. The rotor is just stuck on. And you don't remove the spindle, the rotor is on your side of the hub.
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May 8, 2008 03:42
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Baby Hitler posted:Put a bolt into that hole, and turn it. The rotor is just stuck on. And you don't remove the spindle, the rotor is on your side of the hub. Cool - thanks for the quick reply. That was another idea I had, but I wasn't sure what size bolt I'd need. Are they standard by any chance?
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May 8, 2008 03:55
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Okay, I've been having more problems with my Honda (95 Civic EX 1.6L 5-Speed 241,000 miles, original clutch). Recently, when I've stopped on a hill or let the car sit for a day or two, the clutch just goes limp and falls to the floor. I have to pick the clutch back up with my foot and pump it a couple of times for it to work again. I checked the fluid, and it is jet black. It's full, just this nasty black color. I know it's not supposed to be that color (DOT 3). So I'm thinking a drain/refill is in order. Is my slave cylinder bad? Because I don't think it would be working at all if it were bad. Should I just replace it anyway, because it is so old, and if I do, will I need to change the clutch master cylinder at the same time? I'm going to be driving home this weekend to do this (90 miles, mostly highway), and I really have no idea what I am doing when it comes to something like this. I'm just going to be easy on the clutch and rev match after I get moving in the meantime.
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May 8, 2008 03:57
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SAVE BIG posted:I'm sure this is stupid, but I'm stuck and can't find anything on-line. I'm not much of a car person - I apologize in advance for incorrect terminology. Big hammer, or try threading a bolt into that hole. It will seperate the rotor from the hub. Or you might have to take that spindle nut off. Generally they are just rusted where the rotor meets the hub. When you get it off, try to grind/sand some of the rust off, then apply anti-seize on the rotor mounting surface. Most of the rust should just flake off though.
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May 8, 2008 03:58
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I just did a clutch job on my 97 540i. My question is, what can I do with the old pressure plate and clutch? Is it just scrap and I throw it in the garbage or can it get recycled?
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May 8, 2008 10:19
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Quick question... What the hell are these white things for that come with these screws: http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-81230-Fasteners-Domestic-Stainless/dp/B00032KBFE I just installed the screws alone after one of my plates disappeared and I had to buy a new set (NJ requires front and back, and you can't get just one)
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May 8, 2008 19:31
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JHVH-1 posted:Quick question... Thats what the screw screws into. they pop into square holes in the plate bracket.
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May 8, 2008 19:37
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I'm about to get rid of my 2004 G35x. I will probably get another G35, and I'm debating the utility of getting another x model, or just sticking with the RWD model. With the traction control features that the RWD model has, do I really need all wheel drive? I live in Virginia Beach, so snow is very rare. Wet roads are the most hazardous conditions I would usually encounter. Thoughts?
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May 8, 2008 19:57
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I did a cursory search, and I apologize if this has been asked before. I am looking for replacement floor mats for my 2007 Saturn Outlook. The stock ones are thin, cheap and constantly look filthy. I am looking for a better alternative, but don't really know where to start looking (other than google) or what to expect to pay.
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May 8, 2008 19:58
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hippynerd posted:Thats what the screw screws into. they pop into square holes in the plate bracket. OK, my plate holder doesn't have square holes so I guess I have no need for them. Someone else said they are for a plate frame which I don't have either.
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May 8, 2008 19:59
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Suqit posted:I did a cursory search, and I apologize if this has been asked before. I am looking for replacement floor mats for my 2007 Saturn Outlook. The stock ones are thin, cheap and constantly look filthy. I am looking for a better alternative, but don't really know where to start looking (other than google) or what to expect to pay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Volkswagen-Golf-GTI-Monster-Floor-Mats-Rubber_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33697QQihZ006QQitemZ160219734944 I like this kind. Only thing I kept after I wrecked my GTI.
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May 8, 2008 20:02
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kimbo305 posted:what kind do you want -- rubber ones, thicker carpet ones, etc.? I would either like that kind, or possibly thick carpet ones, does anyone have any recommendations on which work best? I have two kids (and a wife) and they are hell on floormats.
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May 8, 2008 20:03
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Suqit posted:I would either like that kind, or possibly thick carpet ones, does anyone have any recommendations on which work best? I have two kids (and a wife) and they are hell on floormats. The ribbed rubber ones are good because they can catch a lot of crap and are still easy to hose down. or at least shake out. You should look for ones from a vehicle roughly the same shape as your Outlook.
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May 8, 2008 20:07
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JHVH-1 posted:OK, my plate holder doesn't have square holes so I guess I have no need for them. Someone else said they are for a plate frame which I don't have either. Here are the ones on my car.  They look about the same as yours.
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May 8, 2008 20:17
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Suqit posted:I would either like that kind, or possibly thick carpet ones, does anyone have any recommendations on which work best? I have two kids (and a wife) and they are hell on floormats. I got some heavy duty truck mats for my old car that I liked a lot, especially in the winter. They're like $30 at an auto parts store. I would have kept them in the GTI, but the floor mounted accelerator meant I had to get specific mats from VW for over $90. Gah.
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May 8, 2008 21:11
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Demagogue posted:I'm about to get rid of my 2004 G35x. I will probably get another G35, and I'm debating the utility of getting another x model, or just sticking with the RWD model. With the traction control features that the RWD model has, do I really need all wheel drive? I live in Virginia Beach, so snow is very rare. Wet roads are the most hazardous conditions I would usually encounter. Thoughts? Even without traction control, RWD is not dangerous at all to drive in the rain. With traction control, you'd have to try pretty hard to plant the car into a guard rail. If you don't need AWD, RWD will give you a lighter vehicle, better fuel mileage, and (subjectively) sportier driving characteristics. Plus, the G35/G37 coupe doesn't come with AWD, and seeing as the coupe is about 400 times sexier than the generic-looking pudgy sedan, I think that makes the decision quite easy. 
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May 8, 2008 21:39
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Uthor posted:but the floor mounted accelerator meant I had to get specific mats from VW for over $90. Gah. Couldn't you cut the appropriate slots yourself?
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May 8, 2008 21:48
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Guinness posted:Plus, the G35/G37 coupe doesn't come with AWD, and seeing as the coupe is about 400 times sexier than the generic-looking pudgy sedan, I think that makes the decision quite easy. Thanks for the input. My 3 year old needs a backseat though, so sedan it is. But I'll probably forgo the AWD model this time.
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May 8, 2008 21:51
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Amir posted:Couldn't you cut the appropriate slots yourself? Yeah, but then you cut away the lip around the outside edge of the mat, which would allow water/snow/crap to flow from the mat to the carpet.
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May 8, 2008 21:56
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Uthor posted:Yeah, but then you cut away the lip around the outside edge of the mat, which would allow water/snow/crap to flow from the mat to the carpet. I did not think of this! 
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May 8, 2008 22:19
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Having an issue where my 307 in my Cutlass seems to be lean at idle. I've already checked for vacuum leaks and burnt exhaust valves. It doesn't act like a vacuum leak (no hesitation on the initial throttle) and compression is good. I would like to interface with the computer to see if it is calling for it to be lean. Has anyone ever heard of setup able to monitor the ECM on the 80's G-Bodies?
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May 10, 2008 07:20
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I'm replacing the front strut mounts on my 98 Pontiac Grand Prix. I asked the guy at discount auto parts for the mounts, and he handed me two; but I'm not sure if they're correct. Aren't the two parts of front mounts supposed to swivel in order to allow the wheels to turn? This piece is just one large mount with no bearings or swiveling movement at all. Did he give me the right ones? In that vein, anyone have any "things I wish I'd known before" advice for replacing front strut mounts? I'm familiar with the process, but I've never done it myself before.
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May 10, 2008 18:25
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HFX posted:Has anyone ever heard of setup able to monitor the ECM on the 80's G-Bodies? It's called a paperclip. http://www.bnb32.com/readarticle.php?article_id=14 That is for f-bodies, but I'm guessing the methods of testing are the same (as are the results) but possibly different location for the plug. Surely there is information out for your body of cars. EDIT: Those are just codes it may be throwing but every little bit helps. Theres no telling what else might be wrong. capn_douchebag fucked around with this message at 19:25 on May 10, 2008 |
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May 10, 2008 19:17
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Hello, Hey Guys, Ok, i managed to install A Cold Air Intake but i just have a couple questions with the wiring, i added a pic to help describe things. This is on a 2004 Dodge Neon sx 2.0 1. #1 This was the shorter tube and i imaging that its job is to draw air or something, but is this tube correctly connected via the plastic tube provided in the kit to #2 on the picture? 2. #3 on the picuture is the air sensor i believe and it goes into the hole in the pipe ime certain but it does not hold in very well at all. Can i just use some hot glue and stick it there?? 3. #4 is a metal prong thing, what the heck do i secure it to? or does it support #3 in the picture? 4. #5 in the picture is a shorter smaller tube like #1 in the picture but i have no idea where it is supposed to connect to... any ideas??? As well, the check engine light was on for a little while but after 2x driving it around the light is no longer on. I am guessing that the sensor's needed to re adjust themselves. oh and is there any special kind of securing things so that it doesn't bounce around too much??? 
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May 10, 2008 19:21
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Why is it that we can mandate ESP and 5mph bumpers, but not lights that come on when the wipers come on? I'm not a huge fan of govt regulation on this type of stuff, but seriously, do people realize how invisible they are in a downpour, esp in grey cars? They're lucky I pay attention.
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May 10, 2008 20:49
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capn_douchebag posted:It's called a paperclip. I know how to test the codes. Right now it shows no codes at all. I've heard of some people making a serial connection and pulling the information while it is running. nm posted:Why is it that we can mandate ESP and 5mph bumpers, but not lights that come on when the wipers come on? This a rant or a question? It really would be a good idea and really should have been one of the first mandates ever since it is so simple. I guess you could always do it yourself. HFX fucked around with this message at 23:27 on May 10, 2008 |
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May 10, 2008 23:21
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Anyone know the ECU codes for an 89 240sx? I'm getting 10, 20, 2, 3, and 4. It's OBD-0, all I can find is I and II codes.
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May 11, 2008 01:01
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HFX posted:This a rant or a question? It really would be a good idea and really should have been one of the first mandates ever since it is so simple. I guess you could always do it yourself. Is there some reason they don't do this (does anyone do it)? I mean, my car comes with DRLs, but that doesn't help the car behind me. This strikes me as just something that would be easy to implement. I do turn on my lights, though with the DRLs and always illuminated dash, it could be easy to forget.
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May 11, 2008 02:33
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Do SUV's with 4x4 mode get the gas mileage of their 4x2 counterparts when it's (4x4) not engaged? I was looking at the Patriot the other day and the gas mileage difference is evident between the two models. Is the 4x4 mode capable of being turned off - and if so can you get similar gas mileage to the 4x2 when it is off?
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May 11, 2008 18:05
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