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If you want a clear case, you can use a 2 part acrylic mix in a mold to make the difficult parts. Or get a large, thin sheet of plexy and heat it with a heat gun to bend it. If you search the web, you can find plans for building your own vacuum forming equipment. You could use that for any seriously custom parts.
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May 8, 2008 13:01
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My bike, it-a break-a! I put a new tube in rear tire of my mountain bike. I worked the tube back on the rim, and it looks like it's on properly. The tire seems meet the rim at about the same point on the tire all the way around on both sides, though it's not perfect. I put the wheel back on, and eyeballed it while putting it back in the socket. When I ride, I have a rubbing sound that I think comes from the back tire. As I speed up, the rubbing speeds up. As I slow down, the rubbing slows down. The rubbing went away, then I pumped the rear tire more, which brought the rubbing back. The rubbing happens even when my rear breaks are disengaged. Thoughts?
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May 9, 2008 20:50
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utopian180 posted:My bike, it-a break-a! Flip the bike over and spin the back wheel. Is it rubbing? If so, listen to discover where. If it's out of center, realign it so it's in the center.
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May 9, 2008 20:53
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I forget to mention. It didn't rub when flipped over. edit: It was rubbing on the breaks. I re-set the wheel 3 times until it didn't rub anymore. utopian180 fucked around with this message at 05:28 on May 10, 2008 |
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May 9, 2008 21:07
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You might want to check in the bike megathread too, but it sounds like what is happening is that your wheel is flexing under your weight and the pull of the chain. (That's why you can't fix it when you bike is upside down, because it only rubs when you are on the bike and turning the pedals.) You can pay to have your spokes tensioned and trued, but there is a limited lifetime for the steel used in cheap spokes and once they get stretched the usual remedy is to buy a new (and hopefully better made wheel). I have used cargo bikes for a long time (carrying 400+ pouunds) and it works like a wear accelerator testing rig for wearing out rear rims. I found that getting a 36 hole rim with the thickest gauge stainless spokes and a beastly rim like a RhynoLite (and then paying someone to true and tension it regularly) the only way to keep a rear wheel under me. Getting a custom built rim is pricey but pushing a couple of hundred pound around on a busted rim means that my bike cannot actually replace my car.
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May 10, 2008 11:12
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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jeff8472 posted:Try a glass shop for plexi or lexan. I think lexan scratches easier. They'll cut it to whatever sizes you need and pre-drill as well. I paid around $5 for a square foot. I just wanted to report a success story here. I ended up using the Lexan that a different Home Depot carried. However, if anyone ever needs to cut Lexan into straight pieces, do not use the plastic cutter hand tool they sell for $3 right above the Lexan sheets. Terrible idea - even if I did 40+ passes with the blade, the darn thing wouldnt break in a straight line because inevitably a handful of the cuts would not go exactly in the "groove" that I started with. I recommend using a power saw of some kind to do the job if anyone ever works with Lexan. That being said, Lexan is unbreakable, and is performing admirably. Thank you for the help.
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May 12, 2008 02:22
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Routhic posted:I just wanted to report a success story here. I ended up using the Lexan that a different Home Depot carried. Lexan (polycarbonate) is used for bullet-proof windows, and is engineered to be very tough and flexible. Plastic cutters are designed to work with brittle acrylics. Sorry you found that out the hard way!
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May 12, 2008 05:19
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Blowupologist posted:Lexan (polycarbonate) is used for bullet-proof windows, and is engineered to be very tough and flexible. Plastic cutters are designed to work with brittle acrylics. Sorry you found that out the hard way! The blade listed Lexan as a material that it could be used on. GE lied to me.
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May 12, 2008 08:13
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At work yesterday, a customer came in and asked if I could cut him a key. I told him sure and took him over to the key duplicator and when we got there he took out two bits of a mail box key. This was actually the first time someone had asked me to cut a broken key, and I initially told him no, I couldn't do it. He became pretty insistent that I cut it and I took a closer look at the key and saw that we didn't have the blank to make a copy anyway. So key goons, ca a broken blank be copied? Does it depend on the duplicator?
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May 12, 2008 14:10
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Hardware Tate posted:At work yesterday, a customer came in and asked if I could cut him a key. I told him sure and took him over to the key duplicator and when we got there he took out two bits of a mail box key. This was actually the first time someone had asked me to cut a broken key, and I initially told him no, I couldn't do it. Is it a USPS mail box? If so, I believe it's illegal to duplicate. I would think as long as you can get in the duplicator without it moving, you should be able to copy it.
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May 12, 2008 14:24
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Depends on how the break is. If it's clean enough, you should just be able to just push the two halves together, and the clamp will hold it together while you make the cut. I've done it plenty of times. This is the sort of machine I use - two little clamps that hold the key in place while the jig moves the blank over the cutting wheel. Admittedly, mine is a lot older and crappier than this picture, but the principle it works on is the same.  Locksmiths will cry and tell you that you should take it to them to have it done properly using the numbers to cut an accurate copy, but they will charge you through the nose for it. Theoretically a poorly cut key will give you increased wear on the lock, but realistically, it's not much more than the wear it will get from people just being rough with their locks anyway. In short, yes it's entirely possible, it just might take a couple of goes if the break isn't clean.
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May 12, 2008 16:40
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Hardware Tate posted:At work yesterday, a customer came in and asked if I could cut him a key. I told him sure and took him over to the key duplicator and when we got there he took out two bits of a mail box key. This was actually the first time someone had asked me to cut a broken key, and I initially told him no, I couldn't do it. Keys are fairly easy to copy with jeweler's files. You can save yourself the headache and increase the sale by selling the files (and the blank if you have it) instead of doing it for him. I've used a set of files and a small machine vise to copy several keys that might otherwise have drawn questions or excessive fees. edit: just remember, I said "easy" and not "fast" 
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May 13, 2008 01:48
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Ok, might try it next time. The break was terrible. The guy was fiddling with it while I talked to him and he wasn't having any success putting fitting it together- cracked in two pieces with the tip retaining a fair portion of the middle groove. Looked really weird.
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May 13, 2008 06:30
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Yeah, give it a whirl for sure. Worst case scenario you're out one blank. With the break you described, I would have cut it in two parts. Hard to describe, but I would have started with the head half of the key and cut it until I reached the end of that half, then - leaving the blank clamped in position - line up the broken tip with the the tip of the blank and cut the remainder of it, and cleaned up any burrs where the two cuts started and stopped with a file. It won't be the neatest key ever made, but it ought to work well enough that the guy can get into his house where he hopefully has a better copy to work from.
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May 13, 2008 15:46
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The laser toner transfer thread got archived before I could try it out, and I remember all the instructions but one: What's the heat setting I should use on the iron when transferring a design?
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May 18, 2008 20:23
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Has anyone ever had someone replace an old tub with a new tub for them? I have the new tub already, but I'm thinking it might be better for me to have someone that has done it before and can get it done in a day do the tub replacement, leaving me able to finish the rest of the bathroom. Out of all the plans I have for my house, it's the only thing that I question my ability to get it done well. Anyways, anyone have any ballpark on how much something like this should cost? And would I be looking at calling a plumber, or just a general contractor / handyman type?
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May 18, 2008 22:48
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How might I remove stained glass color from a cheap, hard, laminate floor? After masking off the entire shower of my bathroom, I was glazing some small stringed light bulbs red with Krylon Stained Glass Color, and was positive I'd be fine, because the bathroom was left spotless. The next day, there was red discoloration in the corners of the room, I guess from unseen vapor that had collected from the air overnight. The directions on the back said "Stained Glass Color may be scraped from hard glass surfaces or removed with lacquer thinner." I mopped the drat floor twice with lacquer thinner and it faded a very slight bit, if anything at all. Any ideas? I couldn't capture a good picture to represent the discoloration, but I used this (if that helps): http://krylon.com/products/stained_glass_color/ 
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May 21, 2008 11:20
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I lost the power adapter for this old model Casio Keyboard. It's a LK-44 Model, which is no longer made apparently, and the power adapter is located here: http://www.amazon.com/Casio-AD-5-Keyboard-Power-Adapter/dp/B00005BMSN However, I happen to have another power adapter that is also 9V AC. If I use this mystery adapter instead of the Casio one, do I risk doing any harm to the keyboard or any outlets? I don't want ruin my keyboard because I'm a cheap bastard. As long as the voltage and milliamps are the same, I should be fine, right?
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May 21, 2008 22:22
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warwick5s posted:Has anyone ever had someone replace an old tub with a new tub for them? I have the new tub already, but I'm thinking it might be better for me to have someone that has done it before and can get it done in a day do the tub replacement, leaving me able to finish the rest of the bathroom. Out of all the plans I have for my house, it's the only thing that I question my ability to get it done well. I've replaced a couple of tubs myself. If it's one of the polycarbonate inset ones, they are relatively easy to install. It's simply a matter of having a sufficiently sturdy frame, then fixing it in place with construction adhesive and tiling around it. The plumbing is pretty simple, especially if you are replacing an existing tub, all the hard work will have been done for you, all you should have to do is reattach the taps and waste outlet to the tub itself. If you were going to get someone else to do it, a handyman would be fine. There is no really tough plumbing involved, and nothing that (in Australia) would require certification by a licensed plumber. SnackinStarfish posted:How might I remove stained glass color from a cheap, hard, laminate floor? Without knowing what sort of spray it is (Krylon isn't a brand available in Australia) it's hard to say. "Lacquer thinner" could be a couple of different formulations depending on the type of lacquer used. I would start off with mineral turps, then if that didn't work perhaps try acetone. If you can give a picture of the ingredient list of the can, and of the discolouration I might be able to offer more advice, but those two chemicals would definitely be my starting point.
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May 22, 2008 09:35
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o _ q posted:However, I happen to have another power adapter that is also 9V AC. If I use this mystery adapter instead of the Casio one, do I risk doing any harm to the keyboard or any outlets? I don't want ruin my keyboard because I'm a cheap bastard. Are you sure that the adapter outputs AC? That's pretty uncommon. It happens, but it's uncommon. Basically, there are three things to consider when replacing a power adapter: 1. The voltage has to be the same or your device will probably die 2. The current (milliamps) rating on the new adapter has to be at least as high as on the old one or your adapter will probably die 3. The polarity (i.e. where + and where - goes) has to be the same or your device will probably die If the keyboard really needs 9V AC, then you don't need to worry about the polarity since AC is always just AC, there is no + and -.
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May 22, 2008 10:30
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RegonaldPointdexter posted:Are you sure that the adapter outputs AC? That's pretty uncommon. It happens, but it's uncommon. Yeah it is a 9V AC adapter. Voltage is the same, not sure about milliamps on the keyboard but the adapter says 100 mA. I plugged it in and it works fine. I just hope it keeps working. Thanks for the help.
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May 23, 2008 07:20
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The output jack on my bass fell out and I was wondering if this is one of those things I can fix myself or if I need to take it in and get the jack replaced. If it needs to be taken in for repairs, about how much does this run?
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May 23, 2008 17:13
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Triangulum posted:The output jack on my bass fell out and I was wondering if this is one of those things I can fix myself or if I need to take it in and get the jack replaced. If it needs to be taken in for repairs, about how much does this run? The whole jack, or just the nut holding it on? As long as you can solder the wires back on, shove a little Gorilla Glue into the screw holes and then screw it back in. Get us a picture of the damage, we'll square you away. And when you say, "Fell out"...what the hell?
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May 23, 2008 17:38
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Alright, I'll get a picture when I get off work. Maybe the nut just fell off, I don't know a drat thing about bass repair and I've just started playing so I really don't know what the gently caress I'm talking about to be quite honest.
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May 23, 2008 18:01
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It's really just an overgrown headphone jack, so it probably was just the nut. I'll have to wait to see pictures, but you'll probably just have to unscrew the panel in the back of the bass and push the jack back through the hole, then thread the nut back on and tighten it down. It's happened to my guitar a few times.
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May 23, 2008 20:53
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slow crow fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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May 29, 2008 01:17
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aunaturale posted:Some might consider this disgusting, but I'd appreciate suggestions: Alcohol prep pads will remove all manner of disgusting human goo. If it's yours, gross. If it is not yours, I feel for you. I used to do end of the year clean ups at college apartments, and the stuff they leave gooed onto the walls is pretty digusting. Go to costco and get nitrile gloves and alcohol prep pads and think happy thoughts about flowers while you are cleaning it up. If it flat (not glossy) paint it's going to leave a stain, but you can get all the material off at least. Glossy always seems to be fairly easy to wipe and not repaint.
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May 29, 2008 02:23
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slow crow fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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May 29, 2008 03:43
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aunaturale posted:Thanks for quick response. I was pretty sure I wouldn't get anything because it's so particular From my experience the alcohol prep pad (you know like they have at pharmacies for use to prep for needle sticks for diabetics and what not) is the thing I used. I had to clean up what you had to clean up as well as even more disgusting what I can only assume was dried semen wiped on the wall near the beds. I do not miss that part of the job at al not even a little bit. The rest of the job was good Mr. Fix-it training because I always had to do a little bit of everything, and it gave me an excuse to buy tools. I also learned how to break any bike lock open because we had to get rid of all the bikes abandoned on the bike racks too. (And I got to keep the free abandoned bikes, as well as any other stuff left behind that was not included in the apartment originally.
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May 29, 2008 03:58
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slow crow fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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May 29, 2008 05:07
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aunaturale posted:I always wonder if they just wait to grab one when a girl dismounts or if they actually know how to break them, because since the city is known for both bikes and bike theft you will usually have every bike locked and with a sturdy one at that. Unfortunately the bikes I got for free were the kind of bikes you could not sell. I just fixed them up and gave them to homeless folks, or local kids who could not afford bikes. I ususally had to mix three or four bikes' bits and pieces together to make two decent ones.
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May 29, 2008 05:12
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So apparently I left a mug on my birch table too long (Ikea, so it has oil over if it that makes a difference, according to the website), but it only could've been an hour or so. I normally use coasters but I slipped this once and there's now a fat dark ring on it. I stupidly tried a very mild dish soap w/ bleach solution, but that just made it cleaner and helped the dark part stand out more, even after letting a lamp dry it all. I'm afraid to gently caress it up more, and also afraid at this point I'd have to refinish the whole thing to fix it.
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Jun 1, 2008 23:07
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I haven't tried it myself, but I think my mother used to use vegetable oil and salt mixed up and rubbed into the ring then wiped off. I'm going on memory here though, so I may well be wrong. I also seem to recall some concoction of mayonnaise and ash, although this seems a bit unlikely. Edit: Well, curiosity got the better of me and I googled my mother's bizarre recipes and it turns out that both of them seem to be pretty popular. I must admit I'm a bit surprised. The mayo one in particular seems tog et good reviews. Take it as you will tho, I haven't used either. Haikeeba! fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jun 2, 2008 |
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Jun 2, 2008 04:46
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slow crow fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Jun 2, 2008 05:40
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aunaturale posted:I want a good light for reading and writing. Something that is "brighter" than the yellowish "soft white" but doesn't have the glare that comes with some of those very white lights? When you get serious about lighting, you will find out that the number that seems to be important is the color temperature. The fluorescent bulbs can be purchased in a enormous wide range of temperatures. (The 'Standard' fluorescent bulb is 4100 K. For me the best bulbs are the 5000 K but they come all the way up to a 6000 K version. Sylvania labels the 5000K bulbs as 'daylight' bulbs, but for Phillips 'daylight' apparently means 6000K. If you are lucky, the home improvement center will have a display with the various bulbs plugged in for you to look at. In Hawaii, since everyone is outside all the time, interior lighting is tricky because it has to be really bright or it will put you to sleep. I end up putting a mix of 6000K and 5000K bulbs up for my favorite lighting.
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Jun 3, 2008 15:43
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Sapper posted:The whole jack, or just the nut holding it on? As long as you can solder the wires back on, shove a little Gorilla Glue into the screw holes and then screw it back in. Get us a picture of the damage, we'll square you away. Alright, I can't find the charger for my camera for the life of me. Basically where the jack used to be is just an open hole in the faceplate now. My bass seems to be missing all the external components of the output jack.
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Jun 3, 2008 16:34
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slow crow fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2008 17:44
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It refers to how bright the bulb is. When comparing multiple bulbs, this may or may not be important to you. Higher wattage does not mean brighter. Higher lumens means brighter.
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Jun 3, 2008 18:19
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aunaturale posted:I want a good light for reading and writing. Something that is "brighter" than the yellowish "soft white" but doesn't have the glare that comes with some of those very white lights? I like the GE Reveal bulbs (other brands make similar bulbs, like the Sylvania 'daylight' ones kapalama mentioned). No clue what the color temperature on them is, but I prefer the light they put out to normal incandescents.
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Jun 3, 2008 20:48
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I have a lot of hair so I bought a hair-catcher to place over the drain in my bathtub. Problem is that it doesn't stay in place, and floats up. What's an adhesive tape that would last long in the shower to tape that thing down? (at least long enough that it wouldn't be annoying)
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Jun 4, 2008 03:36
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