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Agreed posted:Digitech/DoD have made some quality pedals. I like their analog units reasonably well. The Bad Monkey, for example, is just great. Total TS killer, if you ask me. And you seem to think so too, heh. I use a Metal Master as my main distortion and I absolutely love it, despite it being a digital pedal. I'm usually a real human being when it comes to analog vs. digital, but this thing is really amazing for a lot of different heavier distortions. EDIT: Do you put your wah before or after your distortion?
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May 18, 2008 23:59
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| # ? May 16, 2024 19:33 |
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Engine Fortegue posted:EDIT: Do you put your wah before or after your distortion? From what I understand a wah usually works best before any other pedals. Correct me if I'm wrong, ML.
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May 19, 2008 02:08
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mono posted:From what I understand a wah usually works best before any other pedals. Correct me if I'm wrong, ML. I've usually put the wah last in my chain, but I put my delay in the effects loop of my amp, so I guess the wah isn't "last." However, I've found OD -> Wah has a better sound (to my ears) than Wah -> OD.
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May 19, 2008 02:26
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The wah needs to go between your guitar and amp input.
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May 19, 2008 02:55
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AE posted:The wah needs to go between your guitar and amp input. I usually put mine in the corner of my bathroom. Sometimes I plug it into the sink. To think, I've been doing it wrong all these years.
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May 19, 2008 05:04
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http://www.rondomusic.com/web846fl.html I'm about to buy one of these. I've been playing a four string for a few years, and this is so cheap that I thought I'd get it as a summer project.
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May 19, 2008 05:18
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Lord Julius III posted:http://www.rondomusic.com/web846fl.html I don't get how he can sell the stuff so cheap and still have an acceptable quality. With a pickup swap that bass would probably be pretty good.
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May 19, 2008 09:06
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mono posted:From what I understand a wah usually works best before any other pedals. Correct me if I'm wrong, ML. People will put it before or after their dist/od depending on if they want a wah'd fuzz or a fuzz'd wah. After a few minutes of playing both ways, you'll see the difference... it's not subtle. Most people stick it first, but you should always be experimenting. I reckon someone could fashion up a "before/after" box with a few bits from pedal parts plus if they had a need to switch modes on the fly. May be an interesting project.
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May 19, 2008 16:09
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bisticles posted:People will put it before or after their dist/od depending on if they want a wah'd fuzz or a fuzz'd wah. After a few minutes of playing both ways, you'll see the difference... it's not subtle. Most people stick it first, but you should always be experimenting. http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalHacker/OrderSwitcher.htm
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May 19, 2008 16:49
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the wizards beard posted:http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalHacker/OrderSwitcher.htm Well would you look at that. I'd imagine a 4pdt would require a pretty solid stomp to engage the switch. One of these days I'll get around to building my "everything box"; a looper/tuner out/ tap tempo doodad. an AOL chatroom fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 19, 2008 |
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May 19, 2008 17:38
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Dr.Mosh posted:I don't get how he can sell the stuff so cheap and still have an acceptable quality. It's a combination of cheap overseas labor, cheap overseas materials/hardware, bulk purchasing, and lack of licensing fees that do it. Pretty much the only thing is that the factory that produces Brice, Agile, SX, etc is a huge factory that makes guitars for other brands (sometimes you'll buy a certain brand, but it won't be that certain brand, it will be an SX or an Agile with that other brand's name on it and probably a modified headstock shape), and they have fantastic quality control. It's probably among the best large-scale instrument factories over-seas.
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May 19, 2008 18:53
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I just picked myself up a brand new (used) Epiphone Dot! I've always wanted a hollow-body guitar and I've always thought these were the best ones in the budget range so I decided to treat myself to something nice.
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May 19, 2008 22:03
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I bought this Friday: http://akg.com/site/products/powerslave,id,254,pid,254,nodeid,2,_language,EN.html I'm quite happy with them.
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May 19, 2008 22:51
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mono posted:From what I understand a wah usually works best before any other pedals. Correct me if I'm wrong, ML. Some pedals just plain don't work with wahs. Many fuzzes are like this.
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May 19, 2008 23:08
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Engine Fortegue posted:I use a Metal Master as my main distortion and I absolutely love it, despite it being a digital pedal. I'm usually a real human being when it comes to analog vs. digital, but this thing is really amazing for a lot of different heavier distortions. Wah goes before everything in my signal chain. Not because it has to (though non-buffered wahs tend to like being up front better than being after a bunch of pedals due to the impedance relationship affecting the tone, I use only buffered wahs), but because that's just how wah sounds the best in my various setups. I also like a wah that does a lot to the signal - it has to be a very present wah sound or no thanks  My current pair of wahs works really well up front, lots of cut and bite and snarl and growl: Morley George Lynch Dragon Wah and Ibanez Weeping Demon wah.Oh, the Metal Master is genuinely one of the better high gain pedals I've used, analog or digital. I'm seriously considering getting one to use. It doesn't sound like anything that it's modeling, it just has its own cool high-gain sound. Digitech's digital units usually sound ultra-compressed and overdone, but a high gain sound doesn't really suffer from those attributes so much as benefit from them. It's funny, they have clips of all their pedals on their web site, and if you listen to the Death Metal's clips versus the Metal Master's "emulation" of the Death Metal, the Metal Master's version sounds so much heavier and clearer it's amazing. Dragon Eye Morrison posted:It's a combination of cheap overseas labor, cheap overseas materials/hardware, bulk purchasing, and lack of licensing fees that do it. Pretty much the only thing is that the factory that produces Brice, Agile, SX, etc is a huge factory that makes guitars for other brands (sometimes you'll buy a certain brand, but it won't be that certain brand, it will be an SX or an Agile with that other brand's name on it and probably a modified headstock shape), and they have fantastic quality control. It's probably among the best large-scale instrument factories over-seas. Agile and Brice are made in a Korean factory (which very well make other guitars, I know Ibanez, Schecter, Jackson, and Fender all have Korean instruments which are generally very high quality for the price as well). SX, Douglas, etc. are made in China and suck. Agreed fucked around with this message at 01:47 on May 20, 2008 |
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May 20, 2008 01:42
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Apparently my bow wasn't worth the repair job, so I put $380 down on one of these: It sounds real purdy.
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May 20, 2008 02:57
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bonne chance posted:Apparently my bow wasn't worth the repair job, so I put $380 down on one of these: Are bows really that expensive? I was considering trying to find a cello to learn to play but holy poo poo.
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May 20, 2008 03:05
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West Ham Sandwich posted:Are bows really that expensive? I was considering trying to find a cello to learn to play but holy poo poo. I've been playing for 11 years and done all of my exams except tertiary qualifications so I can reasonably expect to pay about that much for a bow, if not more. According to my violin maker (who also makes cellos...), the wood equivalent of the bow I just bought runs to around $1000. The site I grabbed the pic off divided the bows by price and skill level like this: Beginners (up to grade five) 0 up to $200 Intermediate (up to grade eight) $200 up to $500 Advanced (past grade eight) over $500 I honestly can't remember how much my parents paid for my first 4/4 bow back when I was 13 or 14 but it was probably around $170, because it was wood, crafted by my violin maker's workshop, and I'd already been playing a good four years. I get the impression these days that carbon fibre bows make a consistently good sound for cheaper than their wood equivalents. You could probably pick up a reliable student carbon fibre for about $80. It depends on how you plan to buy your instrument though. I'm not sure what it's like in the US but I assume it's fairly similar to here. You can go to a proper string instrument shop where they will probably have a range of beginner's instruments from China or Korea, or ones with the body sourced from China or Korea and then built locally with a violin maker's bridge and fingerboard etc. These will usually come with better strings and you will get to try them out and pick out your own bow according to price. Or, you can pick up crappy cellos from eBay for $200 and they usually come with the whole package, strings, bow and case, but they will sound like rear end. If you wanted to err on the cheap side I would go a price bracket up (from $200 to $500-900) and put some better strings on it, invariably beginners' strings are awful and will discourage you. See if you can't find an instrument in the classifieds that might be a bit less lovely than the stuff they're throwing away on eBay. If you want something to really blow your mind though, my cello teacher's bow is worth $16,000.
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May 20, 2008 03:51
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West Ham Sandwich posted:Are bows really that expensive? I was considering trying to find a cello to learn to play but holy poo poo. They can get pricey, yeah. Just like any accessory for any instrument. Like, for guitar picks, you can either use a 15 cent dunlop or a $35 Blue Chip made to replace tortoiseshell picks. Really nice bows are precision instruments in themselves and they can be loving fancy. That's a really nice bow, bonne chance. I hate to stray off topic like this, but I'm curious; Is there any stigma within the classical music world with using a graphite bow? I know in classical guitar, there are many stigmas with "non-traditional" materials and methods (non-Torres guitars guitar frowned upon very often, etc).
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May 20, 2008 03:59
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Agreed posted:I use only buffered wahs That right there, is the key point. Dunlop Crybabys/Vox847's (and other similar wahs), due to their patented "half-arsed" bypass switching only have an input buffer to stop tone sucking, but really need an output buffer as well. The output jack is switched between the input jack (bypassed), and the one terminal of the 100k pot (wah on) in the pedal. Depending on the pedal's position, this can load down the inputs of other pedals or the amp. So, with a fully buffered wah with input and output buffers, the place to put it is where ever it sounds best. With an un-buffered wah it's more a matter of wherever it mucks things up the least. EDIT: VVV As for Morley wahs, from the schematics I've seen, in most cases (the op-amp based ones) they have a high input impedance + low output impedance (good), so they shouldn't suffer from this as badly. I haven't had a good play with a morley wah to find out though, the way they sound just doesn't do anything for me. Chalupa Joe fucked around with this message at 08:56 on May 20, 2008 |
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May 20, 2008 05:19
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Chalupa Joe posted:unbuffered wahs Do Morleys suffer from this problem at all?
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May 20, 2008 05:27
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bonne chance posted:I've been playing for 11 years and done all of my exams except tertiary qualifications so I can reasonably expect to pay about that much for a bow, if not more. According to my violin maker (who also makes cellos...), the wood equivalent of the bow I just bought runs to around $1000. The site I grabbed the pic off divided the bows by price and skill level like this: Ugh. I'll stick to bass and drums for now. 
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May 20, 2008 05:36
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Dragon Eye Morrison posted:That's a really nice bow, bonne chance. I hate to stray off topic like this, but I'm curious; Is there any stigma within the classical music world with using a graphite bow? I know in classical guitar, there are many stigmas with "non-traditional" materials and methods (non-Torres guitars guitar frowned upon very often, etc). There is, to some extent, a stigma attached to the use of a carbon fibre bow in some circumstances. I think it's probably widely accepted that yes, for a student of music it's probably much wiser for them to fork out a certain amount of money for a great carbon fibre bow than to spend the same amount on a mediocre Pernambuco (Brazilwood) bow. They feel really good, they sound fantastic, they're durable and don't have as many problems with temperature, humidity, etc. However, a lot of people find that the carbon fibre bows lack the nuances of a well-crafted handmade Pernambuco, like tone colour, frequency response and 'handling'. They're great for beginning to advanced students but once you start playing in a more professional setting it would probably benefit you to buy a well made Pernambuco bow instead. As the cost of the two goes up, the differences between the two types seem to be more pronounced. West Ham Sandwich posted:Ugh. I'll stick to bass and drums for now. I definitely don't want to discourage you in any way from playing the cello! It's a super instrument. A lot of music stores/schools will hire instruments out to students, that way if you don't like your taste of the cello you're not saddled with that big cost. If I were to start playing all over again as an adult, I would definitely rent until I was certain I wanted to continue, that way I'd have the know-how to at least test drive an instrument without making a big buy and regretting it later
bonne chance fucked around with this message at 06:20 on May 20, 2008 |
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May 20, 2008 06:16
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Inside Outside posted:I just picked myself up a brand new (used) Epiphone Dot! I've been looking into picking myself up one of these. How are you finding it, and how much did you pay?
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May 20, 2008 07:11
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bonne chance posted:I definitely don't want to discourage you in any way from playing the cello! It's a super instrument. A lot of music stores/schools will hire instruments out to students, that way if you don't like your taste of the cello you're not saddled with that big cost. If I were to start playing all over again as an adult, I would definitely rent until I was certain I wanted to continue, that way I'd have the know-how to at least test drive an instrument without making a big buy and regretting it later I've been really interested in the cello since I figure it'd most be like the style of bass I play, but I haven't got a single bit of money since any extra money i had recently went to my new ludwig kit. But in any case I don't think any price tag will stop me from WANTING to play it, maybe I'll try to find a music store that rents a cello.
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May 20, 2008 16:28
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Enaku posted:I've been looking into picking myself up one of these. How are you finding it, and how much did you pay? I'm really enjoying it. I paid $325 for it and so far I don't really have any complaints about it other than it's surprisingly heavy compared to my Les Paul. It's got a pretty slim neck that's easy to play and it sounds a lot better than you'd expect for the money.
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May 20, 2008 19:42
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Chalupa Joe posted:That right there, is the key point. Thanks for this info, I was playing around with my crybaby and wasabi OD yesterday, and the wah sounded better before the OD when it was on, but completely killed the tone when it was off, and when the wah was after the OD the clean tone was good, but the wah sucked.
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May 21, 2008 01:55
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Whoops, forgot to post this here.  Yeah, I know I just got the Jazzmaster about a week ago but in my defense this wasn't supposed to be done yet anyway. I was told 2 months, it took 3 weeks. G&L Legacy, honeyburst over ash with gun-oil tint over birdseye for the neck. Cream pickguard and plastic, locking tuners.
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May 21, 2008 02:53
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Carbohydrates posted:Whoops, forgot to post this here. That is gorgeous. You have 2 beautiful guitars. Prick.
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May 21, 2008 02:56
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the wizards beard posted:That is gorgeous. You have 2 beautiful guitars. Prick.  The lighting and balance of this photo is awful. Carbohydrates fucked around with this message at 03:15 on May 21, 2008 |
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May 21, 2008 03:08
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Carbohydrates posted:Thanks, man. I don't know if your number's quite accurate, though. Are you by any chance a member of sonic youth?
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May 21, 2008 03:16
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Carbohydrates posted:Thanks, man. I don't know if your number's quite accurate, though. You sir, have an addiction.
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May 21, 2008 03:28
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Carbohydrates posted:Purty geetars That there is evidence of a severe case of GAS if I have ever seen it. Not that it's a bad thing. Your new G&L makes my pants all tight. You have exquisite taste. Keep it up- just try not to get bit by the boutique amplifier bug. It gets really out of hand fast.
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May 21, 2008 03:43
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Carbohydrates posted:Is that a Taylor 310? I was gonna get one of those, but I opted for a Breedlove and an X3Live instead - no regrets, but I still have feelings for the Taylor...
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May 21, 2008 03:53
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Not really exciting for anyone but me, but I got some Mogami cables (courtesy of Lava Cables) connecting all my poo poo now.
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May 21, 2008 04:08
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JohnnySmitch posted:Is that a Taylor 310? I was gonna get one of those, but I opted for a Breedlove and an X3Live instead - no regrets, but I still have feelings for the Taylor... Ovangkol back: 
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May 21, 2008 07:05
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Carbohydrates posted:Whoops, forgot to post this here. I think I just fell in love.
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May 21, 2008 12:55
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Carbohydrates posted:Wow, that's just gorgeous. I'm sure I'll end up laying down the money for one someday. Until then, I'm going to do illicit things while looking at pictures of yours.
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May 21, 2008 14:59
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Jesus that G&L... only guitar I've seen that's prettier is the aluminum top USA Reverends.
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May 21, 2008 15:15
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| # ? May 16, 2024 19:33 |
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Carbohydrates posted:Whoops, forgot to post this here. drat son, nice. I'm still looking for someone whose had experience with the S-500 Semi-Hollow 
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May 21, 2008 15:54
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