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Triangulum posted:Alright, I can't find the charger for my camera for the life of me. Basically where the jack used to be is just an open hole in the faceplate now. My bass seems to be missing all the external components of the output jack. Yup, you probably just lost the nut off of the jack. Look around and see if you can find it. Is the metal plate that is screwed to the body still there, with just an empty hole? Did it even have a metal plate to start with? All you have to do is find the nut, open the access panel of the bass, push the jack back out the hole and tighten the nut down on it. Put a little clear fingernail polish on the threads right before you screw the nut back down- it'll act as Thread-Lock.
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Jun 4, 2008 16:59
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No, it doesn't have a metal plate that the jack screws into. Thanks for the info, I will try that out.
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Jun 4, 2008 17:50
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Wala posted:I have a lot of hair so I bought a hair-catcher to place over the drain in my bathtub. Problem is that it doesn't stay in place, and floats up. Does your drain have the plate with little holes in it, or is it a recessed hole-type drain? We have the latter in our house, and the hair catcher we use sits inside the drain like a little cup. The house I grew up in had the former, but the drain plate did a fair enough job of catching loose hair that it was never really a problem. I wouldn't think adhesive would be the way to go here; maybe they make something that either doesn't float or has suction cups or something to keep it down?
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Jun 4, 2008 18:05
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stubblyhead posted:Does your drain have the plate with little holes in it, or is it a recessed hole-type drain? We have the latter in our house, and the hair catcher we use sits inside the drain like a little cup. The house I grew up in had the former, but the drain plate did a fair enough job of catching loose hair that it was never really a problem. I wouldn't think adhesive would be the way to go here; maybe they make something that either doesn't float or has suction cups or something to keep it down? I've also had good luck with the little cup-like hair catchers - this apartment came with one that was flat with little brads that attempted to hold it in place, but it was only good at getting knocked out of position and cutting my foot. I bet the one that floated was one of these flower-shaped things. I have never had suction cups work worth a drat in bathtub applications, and a convex hair strainer just makes no sense. My current hair catcher is like this one; got it at the hardware store. Works really well, cleans off easily, cheap as hell.
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Jun 5, 2008 09:01
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It's just a recessed drain with no cover. The hair-catcher I bought at WalMart was just a round plastic thing that sat in the drain and had holes in with no suction pads. I suppose I'll try another one with a different shape and/or suction. I mean, they're not very expensive. Thanks though! Edit: Until then I'll keep pasting the hair up to make gross wall art 
Wala fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Jun 5, 2008 |
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Jun 5, 2008 16:29
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Anyone know where I can get a digital timer to plug into the outlet for a 240v wall AC unit?
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Jun 5, 2008 17:09
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Wala posted:It's just a recessed drain with no cover. The hair-catcher I bought at WalMart was just a round plastic thing that sat in the drain and had holes in with no suction pads. I suppose I'll try another one with a different shape and/or suction. I mean, they're not very expensive. Thanks though! So your drain is something like this then?  That's what we have, and the cup thing works great. It fits pretty snugly inside the drain, and I've never had it float up out of the drain. Maybe the one you got is just a little too small? e: Dubious Merit posted:My current hair catcher is like this one; got it at the hardware store. Works really well, cleans off easily, cheap as hell. Ours is similar, but without the flat piece around the edges. I can't find a picture online of ours though, but it's just the cup-shaped insert part. stubblyhead fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jun 5, 2008 |
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Jun 5, 2008 17:10
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FogHelmut posted:Anyone know where I can get a digital timer to plug into the outlet for a 240v wall AC unit? Is it 15amp or 10amp? 10amp timers you should be able to get from any hardware store. 15amp I haven't seen, but I would try an electrical wholesaler. If you are in Australia, Cetnaj is the chain I would recommend.
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Jun 5, 2008 17:39
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Haikeeba! posted:Is it 15amp or 10amp? USA, where everything is 120v except for a few big appliances. Analog timers aren't too hard to find, but they're pretty inaccurate and are always ticking. Digital timers are everywhere for 120v outlets, but I can't find one for 240v.
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Jun 5, 2008 17:49
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I have a 30 amp plug in the garage that's meant for the dryer but nothing's plugged into it. I would like to take this power and use it in a new home office that will need a lot of power. I was thinking of buying some 10 gauge wire (should handle it, right?) and make a long extension cable, run it through the attic (20-25 ft) and drop the other end through the ceiling of the office. anybody see any problems with this? I have been trying to talk to an electrician, but haven't heard back yet today. maybe tomorrow. e: in the US, in case anybody asks.
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Jun 6, 2008 01:43
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That dryer hook-up is going to be 220v, is it not? You might be better off running a fresh drop from the breaker panel.
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Jun 6, 2008 13:36
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If it is 220, you can probably disconnect it from the panel and run 2 new 120 lines. That should be plenty for an office I would imagine.
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Jun 6, 2008 14:35
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Dubious Merit posted:and a convex hair strainer just makes no sense. (Written by a man clearly, and a man who has never had two long hired roommates) People with long hair end up having to empty out the hair catcher two or three times per shower with one that sits down in the drain. The convex ones increase the surface area, and make it less likely that a frustrated roommate does not just take the thing out when whe is taking a shower.
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Jun 6, 2008 20:04
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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Topic: USB charger - 50Hz transformer on a 60Hz AC mains supply. I purchased a USB mains charger ( USBCHKIT-MP on that link) The label on the charger states: In = 100-250V AC Out = 5V DC @ 500mA (the instructions say 800mA, WTF?) Frequency = 50Hz It will happily charge 2 iPods and a phone at 110/230VAC @ 50Hz. (I would guess thats about 1200mA/hour) But, how will it react to a 60Hz supply in the US? Some Search Engine posted:Frequency changes will wreak havoc, mainly on electric motors or transformers. 1) Will the frequency change matter that much in your experience, I don't want to sacrifice an iPod to a voltage surge. 2) I have a Belkin mains powered USB hub, however if it isn't connected to a USB host, it will power save and shut down and will not charge other devices in this state. Is there a USB hub make/model you could recommend that will accept 50-60Hz at 100/250AC and just output 5vDC / 500mA per port, without fancy power saving features. 3) Any other recommendations that don't involve bringing a laptop and it's power brick with us, please.
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Jun 6, 2008 20:29
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kapalama posted:(Written by a man clearly, and a man who has never had two long hired roommates) Maybe it is because I am a man (clearly) but, how would a convex hair trap that sticks out of the drain be better than a concave hair trap that sticks down into the drain? By 'the one that sits down in the drain', do you mean a planar hair trap?
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Jun 6, 2008 23:02
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Quick Question: I'm trying to run a CAT5 cable downstairs from my router upstairs. Ive got all the plates, plugs etc, but I cant figure out a reliable way to get the cable down through the wall. I'm pretty sure it keeps binding up on something somewhere along the line. Any ideas?
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Jun 7, 2008 00:19
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stizu posted:Maybe it is because I am a man (clearly) but, how would a convex hair trap that sticks out of the drain be better than a concave hair trap that sticks down into the drain? By 'the one that sits down in the drain', do you mean a planar hair trap? Basically the one that sticks out keep working because the hair (which tends to float along the surface of the water) can clog the bottom part and then the water above it can still drain out. With the one sticking down into the drain both the hair and the water are trying to go to the same place.
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Jun 7, 2008 01:16
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Schwack posted:Quick Question: Probably the floor. If so you need one of these: http://www.lsdinc.com/content/product_details/19 I would get the 3/8", it has to be at least 12" longer than the hole you make in your wall is high off the floor.
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Jun 8, 2008 17:12
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Never having done masonry before, do I essentially just stick rocks/bricks together with generic mortar, or are there specific ways of doing this? I've a mind to build a few planters walls and paths in my garden, you see.
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Jun 9, 2008 05:14
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Several times I've gotten cool electrical components (LCD's, microcontroller programmers, etc) on the cheap but have had trouble connecting to them because they lack both cabling and good data sheets. I can usually hack it by soldering wires in but I'd like to be able to get a real connector. I've looked at molex pretty thoroughly since I can get free samples, but I guess I'm not fluent enough with the lingo to find what I'm looking for. Currently I'm trying to get a female connector for this I don't really care if the connector locks in and would even be willing to cut the locking plastic off if it would get it to fit. Any suggestions on what I should be getting?
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Jun 9, 2008 05:20
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Axlan posted:connector It's hard to tell but does that perhaps use the same pin size / spacing as an IDE or floppy drive connector? Those will obviously be far larger / more pins than you need but it could give you something to work off of. Asking my own question now: The closet door in my master bathroom (standard door, 24" wide - not a sliding or multi-fold door or anything) is bowed / warped, to the point where both the top and the bottom of the door impact the door stop in the frame, but the latch is a good bit short of actually hitting and closing. I've tried adjusting things a bit here and there but it seems to be too far out. Is there anything I can really do to this door to fix it, or am I going to have to go through the process of cutting a new door to fit and replacing the damned thing? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jun 9, 2008 |
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Jun 9, 2008 05:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's hard to tell but does that perhaps use the same pin size / spacing as an IDE or floppy drive connector? Those will obviously be far larger / more pins than you need but it could give you something to work off of. hmm, judging by this  probably not. The annoying thing is at that small a size its very hard to measure the spacing accurately enough especially since I'm sure its some crazy fraction of an inch. Edit: after getting lucky in a google image search I decided to start calling it a ribbon connector which led me to find out its probably an IDC. After searching around digikey for awhile I found the two popular size one of which is .1" which looks to fit mine! I've seriously been looking on and off for like a week. Goes to show how valuable datasheets are. Axlan fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Jun 9, 2008 |
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Jun 9, 2008 05:34
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Axlan posted:hmm, judging by this I was referring to this style: 
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Jun 9, 2008 05:42
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Soup Dragon posted:The label on the charger states: Since it's a switched-mode power supply and it has a wide range input (100-250V) anyway, I'm 95% sure it will work perfectly with 60Hz. And even if it dies, the chances of that ruining your iPod are pretty low.
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Jun 9, 2008 10:42
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Never having done masonry before, do I essentially just stick rocks/bricks together with generic mortar, or are there specific ways of doing this? I've a mind to build a few planters walls and paths in my garden, you see. Depends how much weight the planters and walls will be taking. Paths are dead easy, and personally I wouldn't be bothered to mortar the component bricks/pavers together unless you are going for a look with large mortar joins between them. Generally, for a garden paver path you want to put down weedmatting, lay about a 30-50mm bed of packed sand on top of that, lay the pavers/bricks on top tightly, and sweep sand or sand/cement mix between them with a rough broom. This will give you a level and reasonably solid bedding and a tight fit between the blocks. The sand or sand/cement mix is really just there to give a tiny bit of cohesion between each block and fill any small gaps. If you want visible mortar lines you need to be a bit more thorough, and you may need to lay a concrete bed first so as to ensure the bricks don't move and crack the mortar. Walls and planters are a bit more tricky. Do you want to use brick or stone? Because the technique and requirements differ between the two.
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Jun 9, 2008 14:03
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Haikeeba! posted:Depends how much weight the planters and walls will be taking. With the planters I plan on using desert stone and a bunch of old bricks from an abandoned smelter that are mostly broken in half, so they're just like squarish red stones. I'll be doing the garden walls later when I have a bit more experience, but I was thinking of doing those in proper brick.
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Jun 9, 2008 14:47
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I've just added an outlet from an existing one. I'd like to take the existing outlet out, and just patch the wall so there is nothing there? Or do I need to install a junction box for any reason other than codes? It's a house, not a condo or anything.
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Jun 9, 2008 18:17
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ease posted:I've just added an outlet from an existing one. I'd like to take the existing outlet out, and just patch the wall so there is nothing there? Or do I need to install a junction box for any reason other than codes? As I understand the code, anywhere that wires are joined together must be in a junction box, and that box must be easily accessible. If it's something that's not going to be used, then you just put a solid face plate over the box. If you can rig your setup so that any connections are in the junction box for the new receptacle (i.e. no wires coming in or out of the old box), I don't see any reason why you couldn't patch over the old outlet.
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Jun 9, 2008 19:10
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Mr. Wiggles posted:With the planters I plan on using desert stone and a bunch of old bricks from an abandoned smelter that are mostly broken in half, so they're just like squarish red stones. I'll be doing the garden walls later when I have a bit more experience, but I was thinking of doing those in proper brick. Well, it sounds like you're using relatively even stone, which will make things easier. For your planters, you want to mark out your lines, then along those lines dig a trench about 25cm wide by 10cm deep. For your first layer, choose the largest, flattest rocks you have, put them in the trench and tamp them down hard. After that simply build your courses up as usual, remembering to offset each course slightly so that the joins between the stones don't line up vertically. For the first 3 or 4 courses, mortar only when you really have to to ensure stability. You want to leave a certain amount of gaps in the bottom few courses so your planter doesn't turn into a swimming pool after the first big storm. After you've left those courses unmortared continue to build up the wall to whatever height you want. Depending on what you want the wall to look like, mortaring techniques vary. If you want a natural stone wall type look, then only mortar the back side of the course, if you want a full mortar look, or the planter is taking a lot of weight, then mortar the whole course. Basically you just continue building your wall up until the top layer, when you want to use long, flat stones to give yourself a nice surface. Depending on how good you are at mortarwork you should fill the gaps between the stones on the top layer with a pointing trowel or a mortar bag (basically like a big icing bag full of mortar mix). If you are using red stone, you might want to consider adding an oxide to your mortar to colour it something other than grey. Also, I would add Bondcrete (I hope you guys have this in the US) to the mortar in order to give it better grip and better wearing capabilities. You can also use bondcrete to seal the wall if you want to protect it from the elements, rather than having it weather naturally. If you seal the wall the mortar joins will last longer, and be resistant to cracking, but it may not be the look you are after. Lastly, this sort of wall is only good up to about 70 or 80cm or so in height. Taller than that and you really need to start considering reinforcing it because of the weight that will be behind it.
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Jun 10, 2008 02:25
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Haikeeba! posted:Well, it sounds like you're using relatively even stone, which will make things easier. For your planters, you want to mark out your lines, then along those lines dig a trench about 25cm wide by 10cm deep. For your first layer, choose the largest, flattest rocks you have, put them in the trench and tamp them down hard. After that simply build your courses up as usual, remembering to offset each course slightly so that the joins between the stones don't line up vertically. For the first 3 or 4 courses, mortar only when you really have to to ensure stability. You want to leave a certain amount of gaps in the bottom few courses so your planter doesn't turn into a swimming pool after the first big storm. After you've left those courses unmortared continue to build up the wall to whatever height you want. Depending on what you want the wall to look like, mortaring techniques vary. If you want a natural stone wall type look, then only mortar the back side of the course, if you want a full mortar look, or the planter is taking a lot of weight, then mortar the whole course. Basically you just continue building your wall up until the top layer, when you want to use long, flat stones to give yourself a nice surface. Depending on how good you are at mortarwork you should fill the gaps between the stones on the top layer with a pointing trowel or a mortar bag (basically like a big icing bag full of mortar mix). Really great advice. Thanks. Were I to go higher, does one simply build in two walls with rebar and rubble fill in between them?
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Jun 10, 2008 16:56
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Really great advice. Thanks. My pleasure. You are pretty much on the mark with your idea. If you have the space to double wall it, that's the way I'd do it, perhaps run a few rods between the walls as well, say one a metre or so mortared into both walls. If you wanted to do it with just one wall you'd need to lay a solid concrete slab, into which you'd insert rebar rod or mesh, which you'd then build the wall around as per described before. Similarly, if you were going much higher, I would go mortar the whole thing, not just the back side. For larger walls you also want to angle them back into the slope. For small walls you can get away going vertical, but for larger ones a good rule of thumb is about 2 inches back per foot of height (this is only a rough conversion from a rough guide in metric, so you have some leeway either way). To a certain extent, the rebar etc, is overkill. Back in the day they didn't use any of this stuff, and there wasn't any shortage of walls in the middle ages or what-have-you, but if you have the materials, it will certainly make it last longer and shift less. One good technique that hasn't changed in millenia and I haven't mentioned yet is the use of "deadman" stones. Essentially, when you are building a wall that will be taking weight, you want something to anchor the wall into the mass behind it, and these stones fulfill that purpose. Basically they are long stones that are laid perpendicular to the wall, they should span the width of the wall and extend out into the area behind the wall as far as possible, they are generally placed at a middling height. In crappy ascii diagram if your normal wall is like so ========== with deadmen it should look like code:My final points would be: Don't use anything I've said to build a wall above a metre high. At that sort of height, the pressure from the earth behind is pretty massive, and your wall has got to the stage where you really ought to be engineering it and not just building it. Secondly, depending on what the climate is like in your area, you may need to account for frost. Being in Australia, it isn't a problem here and I can only give you basic advice - dig the foundation below the frostline, and backfill the wall a bit with gravel to avoid frost heave. Other than that, go to it. You can make a very nice wall or planter quite easily and cheaply if you do it yourself, so don't be put off by my (probably overstated) concerns.
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Jun 10, 2008 17:56
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Help me goons! I recently moved into an apartment that has been very neglected for quite a while (very good bones, but we're talking crack house styling here). The place is habitable, but quite ramshackle. The landlady is renovating the building, but our livingroom and bedroom are very low priority, so we are painting it so it will at least look a bit nicer in the months-long meantime. The ceilings are in really, really poor shape. they haven't been painted in what looks like 10-20 years, and the paint is falling off in huge thick sheets. There are a couple of places where it looks like the plaster itself may be cracked and sloughing a bit as well (it is a pretty old building). Except for one (possibly two) places, it doesn't look like it is water damaged or anything, just old and ill-maintained. The way to do the job right would be to take out the ceiling and re-plaster/drywall it, but this isn't an option. So we are going to irresponsibly paint over it and hope for the best. So what needs to be done to it? do we have to scrape off all the old paint or sand the ceiling? can we cut out the really bad places without messing up structural stuff? do we just spackle the hell out of it? is there a particular type of paint or primer we should get? Is replacing it the only option? I've painted before, but always on walls without holes/peeling paint. Any advice is appreciated.
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Jun 10, 2008 19:03
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Since you apparently only intend for this to last a few months until a proper renovation can be done, I'd suggest taking the simplest route and just using spackle in the cracks and paint with primer after you scrape the roughest sections and quickly sand everything else. You can use a top coat over the primer if you want, but if you just care about making it look "good enough for now", primer should be okay and won't really look that bad unless you're studying it closely. I have a question of my own: The 1/3-hp chain-based LiftMaster garage door opener in the detached garage of my condo is on the fritz. It's about 10-15 years old, and it opens just fine, but frequently doesn't want to close. Sometimes it closes right away, other times it just clicks and hums at us. I've found if I mash the "close" switch a dozen or two times, it will usually start working again. But today it took nearly 20 minutes of screwing around with it, and my patience is up. I can certainly just detach the door from the chain and use it in "manual" mode, but we keep some expensive items in there and we'd be worried about theft if the door isn't locked. After calling a few local garage-door specialty shops, they all say the whole thing probably needs replacing. It'll cost at least $80 just to come out and look at it, and typically they just replace these units instead of trying to repair them. Why pay $100 to replace a circuit board or drive motor when you can get a brand new unit for $150? Going straight for replacement via the professional route would cost about $300-350 quoted with labor. I'm considering going the DIY route and picking up one of these units from Home Depot:  Chamberlain 1/2-hp chain-drive unit for $130. This is the most similar to the unit I have now, and may not require me to drill or adjust the existing mounting brackets or change much at all hopefully.  My other choice would be a Genie 1/2-hp screw-drive unit, for $153. This has better reviews than the other unit, and is supposedly more reliable and quieter. However, I don't care at all about noise since the garage is detached. And we're only living here for another 2-5 years, so as long as it works for that time I'm happy. It would probably take several extra hours to install due to the different drive-type compared to the other unit. There's some more expensive options that are super-quiet or super-powerful, but I don't think I need them for my light aluminum 1-car garage door. Any additional opinions or suggestions?
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Jun 10, 2008 20:10
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Micomicona posted:Help me goons! Find out what renovations the landlady is planning on doing first. Personally I would scrape/sand off the paint, fill in any rough spots or cracks with spackle, and then hit the whole thing with a nice coat of Kilz primer. Then color as needed if you don't particularly like white. Endor posted:Any additional opinions or suggestions? If the house isn't a long-term investment go with the option that's cheapest and easiest to install. You've already justified why you don't care about the additional reliability or quiet, so why choose the option that's going to be a pain to work with? Just make sure installing the Chamberlain is as easy as it appears at first glance. Few things are more difficult than shoehorning a system where it doesn't want to go.
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Jun 10, 2008 21:13
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Haikeeba! posted:My pleasure. Spectacular advice! Thank you.
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Jun 11, 2008 16:48
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Is there a trick to grinding/sanding aluminum (other than the "clean the grinder/file with a piece of scrap steel" trick)? Also I know the "soak with vinegar to remove deposits/free seized parts that have corroded" trick. I have read that the trick with seized aluminum bits is to soak with ammonia. Does this actually work? (I have never gotten it to work.) And is there some trick to cleaning/unseizing steel bits other than WD-40 and lots of it? EDIT: SynMoo posted:PB Blaster is a great penetrating lubricant. Find it at automotive and possibly hardware stores. (I have that. It definitely finds its way into more nooks and crannies. I meant WD-40 more generically than specifically.) kapalama fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jun 12, 2008 |
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Jun 12, 2008 02:48
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kapalama posted:Is there a trick to grinding/sanding aluminum (other than the "clean the grinder/file with a piece of scrap steel" trick)? PB Blaster is a great penetrating lubricant. Find it at automotive and possibly hardware stores.
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Jun 12, 2008 03:37
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Spectacular advice! Thank you. No worries mate! Please let us know how it turns out.
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Jun 13, 2008 03:28
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I posted this in AI, but I think this forum might be more appropriate. Decision time guys: I need to get some power tools. Namely, a drill and a jigsaw. A circular saw or router might be helpful too, but aren't necessary. They'll be used lightly and not very often (not a contractor or pro mechanic). There was a pretty badass deal on a DeWalt DC728KA at Lowe's, and I picked one up. $89 for it. Only thing I don't like is that it uses NiCad batteries and is kinda pricey. Now, after seeing a deal at Home Depot for a Ryobi One+ starter kit, I'm kind of questioning myself. I can get a drill and circular saw for $99. Then, I can pick any tool or One+ accessory for free. I'd probably get the Li-Ion upgrade kit, then hock the original batteries (and maybe the circular saw) on eBay and get a decent jigsaw. Essentially, I could probably end up paying about $40 for a Li-Ion drill. I can still return (or eBay, since they're going for quite a bit) the DeWalt. Should I? Or will the difference in quality be vast? Keep in mind, the tools will be used sparingly and newbishly .
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Jun 13, 2008 20:33
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I wouldn't spend the bucks on professional grade tools. I've been using a Craftsman drill, a Black&Decker circular saw and Radial Arm Saw, a no-name jigsaw, and some of the finest socket sets Great Neck and Popular Mechanics have to offer. I've been using some of those tools upwards of 15 years. I haven't had many casualties, except for stripping out the drive gear in the drill (replaced with a better model for free(  Craftsman)) from driving a fuckton of concrete screws. I've used them at home, on the job, and in the Army; hell, my socket sets have been in more countries than most goons.If you were a professional contractor, using these tools day in and day out, for more than 500 hours a year, I'd say spend the cash on Makita and DeWalt. But for right now, just get the cheapies, Black and Decker is a really good brand. Most of the people you see with Dewalt, Snap-on, and Makita poo poo sitting in their home garage tend to be, well, idiots, more interested in having "The Best" rather than, you know, actually knowing what to do with the damned things. Get some Walmart/Sears brand tools, learn how to use them, then decide if you need better tools. And Snap-on will always be overpriced crap. Sapper fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jun 13, 2008 |
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Jun 13, 2008 21:05
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